221 FB from 223 Remington

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

I know there are a few threads on this already but wondering how many different ways there are to do it. This could be the "definitive" thread on the subject. Thanks in advance!

[GRUMPA]

I only do it 1 way, my way. I have an intermediate form die and do those on a progressive press, without the expander rod in the die. Then I ream them all since even using the same head stamp the amount removed varies. After reaming I run them through the sizing die with the decapper/expanding rod then trim clean and anneal.

The sizer die is altered for this, rarely if ever do factory dies work and generally require a person to remove material from the base in order for the sizing die to go down far enough to form right. I also use a L.E.Wilson case gauge and wont convert anything unless I use a gauge.

[EDG]

I only form brass for myself so I did the things that made the brass fit my XP-100. I can use a tighter neck because I know the diameter of the neck in my chamber. If you make brass for some one else you should make it to SAAMI standards. If you make brass for your own chamber measure it and make sure you do not produce cases that are an interference fit in the neck when loaded.

1. Make sure all of the cases are free from ejection dents and other negatives (depressed areas) in the area from the new shoulder to the case mouth. Clean them and get all the crud, grit and such off of your cases to protect your forming dies since they are not commonly found or found cheap.


2. Use one of those damaged 5.56 rounds you find at the range to open up crushed case mouths. Oversize a little does not hurt anything, but leaving creases and dents will.

2.5. Knock out all those military primers with a hand punch. I use a Lee hand punch and base with plastic faced hammer.

3. You can do this the long sort of elegant way or you can do it fast and nasty. I take the long way around since any time I burn up would have be subtracted from less productive in most cases. The long way does not take much thinking once your process is set up since it is nearly fool proof and rarely kills a case. Fast and nasty is covered further down.

4. Using a .221 case, set a .30 Mauser aka 7.63 Mauser, 7.62 Tokarev, or .30 Luger aka 7.65 Parabellum FL sizer die body to touch the shoulder, then back up about 1/8 turn of the die. Form the first step with the .30 Mauser die. Make sure any die you use has enough room at the top to clear the longer 5.56 brass.

5. Using a .221 case, set up a .256 Win sizer die up to just touch the shoulder of a .221 case. Then back up about 1/8 turn.
Form the second step. Again make sure the top of the die is long enough to clear.

6. You can start thinking about where (in the process) and how you want to cut off the brass now. If you have a .256 trim die you could use it.

7. Form the next step with a .221 trim die if you are lucky enough to have one. Or use one of the setups that people are using for the .300 Blackout. The .300 Blackout fixture is used on a HF mini chop saw.

8. If you do not have a trim die you can form the last step with the FL die with the expander removed.

9. Verify the thickness of the case necks two ways. Check a sample of at least 25 or more to give statistically valid results.
I check for thickness with a multi-anvil mike (a tubing mike with a ball works better) and I also check using seated bullets. Then I mike the neck over the bullets. This number should be .003 to .004 smaller than the chamber neck.
If the brass approaches the diameter of the chamber neck (with a bullet seated) within closer than .0035 you might think about reaming or turning the necks. My brass is tighter than this but it fit my chamber as is so I shoot them as is. When I get a few hundred more empties I will turn the necks for something to do on a rainy day. I have a few reamer dies but rarely use any of them. I only add reamers and reamer dies when they are offered at give away prices. I have access to a lathe. I have at least 7 case turning tools. These are adjustable to turn any neck with the only a new pilot required at worst. I already have most pilots so turning a new cartridge is not usually much of a challenge. I would add that when you have multiple turning tools you can set one up to rough turn the necks and one to finish turn.

Note: If you plan to ream or turn from the get go, always ream or turn after cold working the brass but before annealing. Annealed brass is a little gummy to machine. Hard brass machines better with better finishes because it is free cutting- it peels off rather than tears off.

10. Finally anneal the formed brass

11. If you formed the last step in the FL die you will have to expand the necks and size with the expander in place.
If you formed the last step in a trim die just finish the brass your FL die.

12. Don't forget to get rid of the crimp in the primer pocket.

Now for the fast and nasty way.

14. There are usually people that show up on threads like this that say they go from the fired case to the formed case with only one die - the FL die, and they get 100% yield. You can try a few like that and see if you like the results.

15. I was able to go from .30 Luger to .221 skipping the .256 Win die. If you can make it work it will save you a step. I like to use the .256 Win die since I have an extra FL sizer and the force on the press handle is minimal. Very easy sizing with out a lot of lube required so you have less opportunity to pull off a dinky 5.56 rim or create lube dents in your brass.


Like Grumpa said- You can sequence these dies in a progressive and crank out a lot of formed brass if you wish.

Changing the subject a little -
There is one youtube poster that sequenced (3) 5.56 dies in his brass prep machine. The 3 passes made sure the brass was all completely formed. This works well because you only have to lube the case once and it carrles the lube to all 3 dies.

[waco]

I only do it 1 way, my way. I have an intermediate form die and do those on a progressive press, without the expander rod in the die. Then I ream them all since even using the same head stamp the amount removed varies. After reaming I run them through the sizing die with the decapper/expanding rod then trim clean and anneal.

The sizer die is altered for this, rarely if ever do factory dies work and generally require a person to remove material from the base in order for the sizing die to go down far enough to form right. I also use a L.E.Wilson case gauge and wont convert anything unless I use a gauge.

I have bought several hundred 221 Fireball cases from Matt and they are very well made. Great product made right.