30-30 Savage 99 value

[blixen]

I'm sold on 30-30 for cast boolits, for the usual reasons: Long-necked, near-perfect capacity, available brass, molds, etc. And classic rifles chambered for it--got three or four from Mod. 94, 336 to a break-top.

I've been looking for Sav. 99 forever. They're always priced out of my range (which doesn't take much). I've been looking at an old 99 (guessing pre-1940s--I misplaced the serial no.) at a pawn shop for the last three years. They are asking around $550 for it.

Pros:
Bore looks good.
It's got a nice Lyman tang sight on it.
Drilled and tapped for a scope. (A worthless scope is on it.)
It's been sitting in the rack for years—apparently no one wants it at the asking price.

Cons:
The rifle's been well used.
The metal is VERY GOOD.
The stock had been broken at some point across the wrist and DIY repaired with a couple of 3/8" inch dowels and wood putty. Really half-a$$ed.
It's an after-market D&T job.

I've consulted a collector friend about some of the Sav. 99s I've turned up. He says things like a broken stock, pitting, D&T are deal breakers for collectors on these kinds of rifles. In the case of a shooter like myself, its condition should significantly reduce the asking price.

I am NOT a "collector": I shoot cast boolits out of beat up rifles.

What would a fair offer be on this Sav. 99? The shop owner thinks it's worthy of the Smithsonian Institute.

I'll try to get some photos.

[yooper]

Clue #1:
I've been looking at an old 99 (guessing pre-1940s--I misplaced the serial no.) at a pawn shop for the last three years. They are asking around $550 for it.
Clues #2 and 3:
Drilled and tapped for a scope. (A worthless scope is on it.)
It's been sitting in the rack for years—apparently no one wants it at the asking price.
Other clues:The rifle's been well used.
The metal is worn and pitted in places.
The stock had been broken at some point across the wrist and DIY repaired with a couple of 3/8" inch dowels and wood putty. Really half-a$$ed.
It's an after-market D&T job.

My question - why in the hell would you want it at ANY price when there are a lot of Savage 99's in 30-30 out there? There are a bunch on GunBroker alone RIGHT NOW, and that's only one source. If you end up with that particular 99 at, say $350, you're going to have a gun you'll be apologizing for as long as you own it. Get something decent to start with, enjoy the ownership of a fine rifle and have fun. JMHO.
yooper

[blixen]

It IS a fine rifle. Just vintage, like me. But it's moot because the lowest he'll go is $450. BTW, I never apologize for my guns.

[dragon813gt]

W/ those issues I wouldn't pay more than $300. I have no problem sending one out to be refinished. Can't do it myself so I have to pay someone. $550 is the price for one w/ some lack of bluing, lever has lost most of the case color, and the stock may have a slight crack at the tang. But there should be no major issues at that price.

[hornady308]

If you decide not to get that rifle, keep your eyes open for a 99 in .303 Savage. It is essentially the same as the 30-30 (uses the same cast boolits and same powder charges), and new brass is available from Natchez. Mine was built around 1918 and still shoots great. The .303 tends to sell for less than the 30-30 models due to people being scared off by the lack of factory loaded .303 Sav.

[richhodg66]

I agree, $550 is too much, but, if you've never had one, they are the best lever actions hands down. There are places that sell exact duplicate wood, I just got a stock set for one I bought as an unfinished project in .25-35 and price was not unreasonable. Drilled and tapped is too bad, but for a shooter...

This is where I got the stock set; http://www.gunstocksinc.com/web_pages/Plate-pics/Stevens-stocks/Rifle-stocks.htm

That Lyman tang sight would probably net you $100 on Ebay pretty easily, that'd pay for the stock set. If you could talk the dealer down below $450, spend some hours finishing a stock and you'd have a .30-30 that would blow any Marlin or Winchester lever gun out of the water easily.

Just my two cents worth, being the Savage 99 aficionado that I am.

[WILDEBILL308]

Have you tried laying $350 on the counter?

Bill

[richhodg66]

Have you tried laying $350 on the counter?

Bill

Good advice, especially if it's been there three years. Decent Marlins and Winchesters are bringing more than that.

[TXGunNut]

If the action is tight and bore is good I'd be in at considerably under his asking price. If the guy wants to run a museum that's his call, not mine. I passed on dozens of well-used specimens before I stumbled over a 95% 300 last year for the same price as that beater. Nice 99's are out there and they don't bring much more than one that has been hunted hard for decades.

[starmac]

Some calibers in 99s bring a premium, 30/30 is not one of them and you should be able to find a nice one at that price. I am not a collector or perfectionist, and actually like them drilled and tapped myself. A scope just looks and feels right at home on a 99 to my eyes.

[richhodg66]

Depends on the 99 and what the stock is designed like. Pretty sure one from the early 40s isn't going to have a stock design that is conducive to using a scope. I have hunted with and killed a deer with three different 99s over the past three years; a 99E in .308 from the 60s or 70s (scoped) a 99EG in .300 Savage from the late 40s or early 50s (Lyman receiver sight) and my .359 Brush Gun from the 70s (scoped). The .300 isn't drilled and the stock design wouldn't work well for it anyway, but it's the slickest working 99 I have and except for a 99H in .303 Savage (saddle carbine style) it's the most graceful in the hands one and a very good shooter. In fact, if you're talking about an unscoped rifle, I think a Savage 99EG, which seems to be the most common variant, is the perfect deer hunting rifle.

All three of those deer were with cast, by the way. It's been my experience so far that 99s are good cast shooters.

[starmac]

My 32 vintage wears a scope proudly and it is a nice trim package.

[lbaize3]

I have been wanting a model 99 in 30-30 for years. It is my intention to rebarrel it to 7-30 Waters. That is my idea of a fine mid range 7mm rifle.

[gnoahhh]

All good advice, but you fail to mention if it is a takedown or not. Barrel length and stock shape will tell us what model it is, and that would drive its value and whether or not it's worth putting any more money into it. Pics would be really helpful. I hear you when you say you just want a beater that shoots well, but a haphazardly repaired wrist is a game changer IMO. You're looking at the very least new wood, and while you're at it a reblue. Get a low grade walnut pre-turned butt and forearm, and hand polish everything down to 400X and rust blue it. These are things a guy can do for himself for not very much money- just a time and labor investment.

I can totally relate to not being able to afford high priced collectors items, but when I see something I want I start saving my nickels until I can buy it. Better to have a couple really nice guns that instill pride of ownership than a closet full of junkers that only allow one to say he owns a lot of guns.

[Dan Cash]

I have been wanting a model 99 in 30-30 for years. It is my intention to rebarrel it to 7-30 Waters. That is my idea of a fine mid range 7mm rifle.

Get a .250-3000 and save yourself a bunch of money and headache with a more practical cartridge.

[Artful]

You know for a hunting rifle - cast boolit shooter - you can usually find 300 sav or 308 win for very reasonable prices. Plus you'll notice that different parts of the country seem to sell them for different prices. The internet is your friend in this case and I'd let my fingers do the walking. But it one other strategy if you really want that particular 99 - go on line find a dozen listings for more realistic prices, print them out and walk in when he's alone and lay them out and then show him $300 cash but have another $50 just in case he won't come down that far.

[Clark]

133992
I got this 1903-1904 Sav 99 30-30 for $560 at a gun show in 2007

[Gtek]

You did ask, move on. As stated above there are a few out there to be had. I see Utah and how far that is from the Super Wal-Mart I do not know. Gunbroker, more gas in the truck, whatever is needed if in full on hunt mode. My history is you usually walk into one when least expecting it!

[blixen]

Gtek, you're write about falling into one. I have been following about 8 Mod. 99s in my neighborhood--they are all .300 Sav. or 30-30 and range in price from $450 upwards. None of them are in exceptionally good shape and all have been in the same rack for years.
I'm just going to stop at pawn shops and gun shops when I pass 'em and hope for a break--it happens.

[justashooter]

If you decide not to get that rifle, keep your eyes open for a 99 in .303 Savage. It is essentially the same as the 30-30 (uses the same cast boolits and same powder charges), and new brass is available from Natchez. Mine was built around 1918 and still shoots great. The .303 tends to sell for less than the 30-30 models due to people being scared off by the lack of factory loaded .303 Sav.

303 savage can be made from 30-30 cases, so cases are not a problem.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I fell into a 99 Savage "L" series take down in .300 that was un-tapped for a scope. The man that gave it to me "owed" me a dollar or so and had no idea what this rifle was let alone what a .300 Sav. cartridge was. He had been given the rifle quite a few years before to "take care" of it. The people that gave the rifle to him was the parents of the radio "Lone Ranger" and this was Brace Breemer`s deer rifle for here in Michigan.Robert

[richhodg66]

303 savage can be made from 30-30 cases, so cases are not a problem.

Graf's has new manufacture PPU .303 Savage brass in stock and it's good brass.

[richhodg66]

I fell into a 99 Savage "L" series take down in .300 that was un-tapped for a scope. The man that gave it to me "owed" me a dollar or so and had no idea what this rifle was let alone what a .300 Sav. cartridge was. He had been given the rifle quite a few years before to "take care" of it. The people that gave the rifle to him was the parents of the radio "Lone Ranger" and this was Brace Breemer`s deer rifle for here in Michigan.Robert

Wow! Wish I could luck into something like that. Nice rifle with a great history behind it.

[021]

Savage didn't make an "L" series 99. Could you give some particulars on the rifle with the serial # (XX out the last few numbers if you think you need to)? They did make a DL model, but they were drilled and tapped from the factory. Offhand, it sounds like a "G" but more info needed.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Savage didn't make an "L" series 99. Could you give some particulars on the rifle with the serial # (XX out the last few numbers if you think you need to)? They did make a DL model, but they were drilled and tapped from the factory. Offhand, it sounds like a "G" but more info needed.

The letter L turned out to be a ding that I mistook for a letter. The serial # is 264XXX with no other letters or pre-fixes other than Savage 1899 model in very fine letters on the top front reciever ring. Mrs. Breemer gave the rifle to my friend after Brace died. Seems that she baby sat for some "curious" kids and didn`t want the rifle in her house where those little imps might find it and play with it. After she passed on and all affairs were settled, no remaining family member left living came to retrieve the rifle. Now, after all these years, there are probably no family members left living that even knew of the rifles existence.Robert

[021]

There are a number of models it could be in that serial # range, I'm not near my notes right now but it seems my 1926 "G" takedown model is just about at that serial number also. If not 1926, I'm pretty close, if my memory serves....

[ajjohns]

Don't make 303 Savage from 30/30. It's not right and they may split. 303 Savage is closer to 30 US rim and head size. Buy new brass and be done.

[gnoahhh]

303 savage can be made from 30-30 cases, so cases are not a problem.

Ixnay. Bad idea. use .303 savage brass and be done with it.

[OverMax]

"What's its worth?"
I guess it depends on whether its a take-down model or not?
I have a 1899 T/D model in 30-30. A little ill-fitting to my size frame. But still a nice quick handling rifle when one finds himself/herself in a tight spot to shoot. {frankly the littl-rifle kind of reminds me of walking about with a BB gun} Shoots good & true though!!. And that's all that counts with me.

[Guesser]

I paid 300 for my 1936 M99 Carbine in 30-30 about 10 years ago, it seemed a lot at the time but I'd never owned one so I got it. It shoots cast better than any of my old or new Winchester and Marlins, none of which I own any longer. Mine has a Lyman #30 1/2 tang sight which is valued at 175$ as I have the box and papers for it. No extraneous holes have been punched in mine, would I let it go? Yes but it would be enough to retire on again. Ha!!!!

[dougader]

Some sellers seem to think that every old rifle is collectible, or so it seems by the prices they ask.

I probably paid more than I should for my 99C Deluxe because th ewood is beautiful, the cch on the lever is still perfect and it's ALMOST to pretty to shoot.

But "slick" is putting mildly. What a nice rifle. My BIL's Win isn't even in the same league.

http://steelheader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Fb9h96v/1/L/i-Fb9h96v-L.jpg


http://steelheader.smugmug.com/photos/i-93HspsR/1/L/i-93HspsR-L.jpg

http://steelheader.smugmug.com/photos/i-7gMr8HV/1/L/i-7gMr8HV-L.jpg

http://steelheader.smugmug.com/photos/i-Qwt7H95/1/L/i-Qwt7H95-L.jpg

[TXGunNut]

Very nice, dougader. Front sight (Lyman 17M?) is a nice touch, do you have a receiver sight for it?

[dougader]

No, sure don't.

[Artful]

Very good looking rifle dougader

[Clark]

I got this 1907 303 Sav with a box of 303S ammo for $78 off a gunshow table in 2001.

I did not want to waste the antique ammo, so I shot it with 30-30 brass. The lever and chamber pushed the shoulder back. Accuracy was terrible. Ackley said that it is done, but don't do it.

[TXGunNut]

No, sure don't.


Bummer, that would be a sweet setup. OK, sweeter.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

All good advice, but you fail to mention if it is a takedown or not. Barrel length and stock shape will tell us what model it is, and that would drive its value and whether or not it's worth putting any more money into it. Pics would be really helpful. I hear you when you say you just want a beater that shoots well, but a haphazardly repaired wrist is a game changer IMO. You're looking at the very least new wood, and while you're at it a reblue. Get a low grade walnut pre-turned butt and forearm, and hand polish everything down to 400X and rust blue it. These are things a guy can do for himself for not very much money- just a time and labor investment.

I can totally relate to not being able to afford high priced collectors items, but when I see something I want I start saving my nickels until I can buy it. Better to have a couple really nice guns that instill pride of ownership than a closet full of junkers that only allow one to say he owns a lot of guns.

That is all pretty sound advice, especially the last bit. A lot of deer get missed by people who alternate between guns with controls which work in different ways, too.

A really good one is surely worth at least that much, but at three years this one sounds like the seller suffers from the triumph of experience over experience. He must surely be ready to come down a bit further. The right tang sight is certainly worth quite a bit of money, and it is hard to put a value on getting to actually see the bore before you buy(a piece of broken CD is a good mirror), and
knowing if the action feels tight.

On eBay at the moment someone is selling a set of Bausch and Lomb scope mounts for the Savage 99. These are for the Bausch and Lomb 1950s and 60s steel scopes without internal adjustment. They are strong and reliable, and though the mounts aren't cheap, it is one of the cheapest ways to get an American scope with optics to modern standards. You can switch the scope from rifle to rifle in a moment, leaving the adjustments in the mount for next time. No prizes for guessing why that design got dropped.

[reivertom]

Decide what the gun is worth to you and make an offer. I would say no more that $400.00, but that is up to you. All they can do is say no. Just be prepared to walk away.....sometimes that's what seals the deal. You can always find a stock on the WWW.

[TXGunNut]

Did you buy it yet, OP?

[blixen01]

Txgunnut,
Armed with the knowledge of this thread, I took another look. It's a breakdown model, which I can understand can have headspace problems. I took the forearm off and found the barrel very tight. Don't know if that's good or bad. The metals better than I remember, but the wood's worse. The action feels smooth and tight. I couldn't get a good look at the bore--no bore light.

Here's a photo. I over exposed it, so yall can see the stock repair--the two dimples under the tang sight are wood putty over -- guessing -- screws. There's also a longish crack on the opposite side.

I'm scraping together $350 that I'll plunk down, saying that's the best I can offer, which is true.http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/08/54f65ee0e1451a2e54fa3ab96ab8696a.jpg
Btw, gnoahhh makes a lot of sense that I'm taking into account.

[ajjohns]

Not too bad?

[reivertom]

I think being a take down model, it would be a great buy at 350.00. As you know the 30-30 is a rimmed round, so I would imagine it would be a bit more forgiving as far as headspace goes.

[blixen01]

Let's not get too excited. Dealer's not going to be thrilled with coming down $150.

[gnoahhh]

Yeah, I'd go $350 for that. Minus the d/t'ed scope mount holes, the re-blue, and the stock repair, it would be a $600 rifle.

Takedowns are no more prone to headspace issues than solid frame Savages, given it's the original barrel and not one that someone grabbed out of a pickle barrel and screwed on. If headspace is a little lax, expand the necks to .32-.35 caliber (run 'em over just the expander ball in an 8mm Mauser die or something like that), and carefully partial full length size (or partial neck size) just far enough down so as to effect a tiny shoulder that generates an interference fit when chambering them. I like to fire them then with squib loads* to fireform a perfect fit in the sloppy chamber before stoking up with full throttle loads. Neck size only from there on out.

*(I prefer to use the original definition of squib loads that describe a low velocity plinking load. Bullets that stick in a barrel aren't "squibs", they're, well, bullets stuck in a barrel. :) )

[blixen]

Not to sidetrack the thread, but do you use a boolit in these fire-forming loads or plug the case end someother way?

[dragon813gt]

No bullet, use cream of what.

[gnoahhh]

Either way works. Truth be told I'm a little squeamish about firing a whole lot of COW fireforming loads. All that fine powder blasting down the bore has got to be like giving it kind of a scouring effect. Maybe of no consequence, but just me being a 'fraidy cat!