Pulling Bullets

[Marc2]

That chore has to be the worst. What is the best type of bullet puller? Is the impact method the fastest? Anybody try the Plier or Press Mounted system? Or is there another devise I've missed that will speed up the process? Have quite a stash of 45 ACP, 40 SW and 38 Special rejects that I need to pull. They are all cast bullets. I dont mind damaging the bullets. I'll just melt them back down. I have an impact puller but its like loading for the Steel Challange with a Lee Loader.

Marc

[garandsrus]

Marc,

The collet type pullers work great with jacketed bullets. I have never tried them with cast... If you are willing to re-melt what you pull, then the pliers/wire cutters on the top of the press should be really quick.

The impact puller is about your only choice when you want to get wad cutters out :)

John

[4t5]

I have a RCBS collet type puller that works great on rifle rounds. I have never tried it on handgun bullets, but would assume equally good performance. Midway is a good source.

I threw out the old hammer a long time ago!

[danski26]

Speed and ok to damage boolit.......pliers or side cutters on top of your press.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

This subject came up once before, and I'll offer the same advice I did before.

I've got both inertia and collet type pullers, which I use for jacketed bullets. For cast bullets, I prefer to pull them with end nippers, as this is the fastest.
I do this by installing the proper shell holder in a press with no die, and raising the cartridge so the bullet protrudes above the press frame, grasp it with the nippers right at the case mouth, and lower the ram. The bullet pulls out with almost no damage, and the powder charge isn't spilled. I've had to throw away very few bullets, the slight marks are almost completely hidden when they're crimped back in.
The only cartridges that will not work, are ones too short to protrude above the frame, and they can be done with extended shell holders.

The type of end nipper is important, it has to be the old farrier-style, not the shoemaker-type mostly seen. I've shown three in the photo below, the short red one in the center is the old one I've been using for many years to pull bullets. The one on the left is a new Diamond brand available in hardware and farm supply stores. The one on the right, is a modern Craftsman of the type that is not able to grasp the bullet, save it for pulling nails and cotter pins.
Morgan

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1800.jpg

[wheelgunner]

Pure genious Morgan, I've got over 1000 to pull and have put it off for years. Most are .45 long colt given to me of unknown lineage and I don't trust to shoot em, but sure want the hard to come by brass. Thanks for a very helpful post!

[nicholst55]

I've pulled cast rifle bullets with the RCBS collet puller; only problem is it leaves the gas checks seated in the case neck. I suppose an inertia-style puller might get that out. I shot a couple out - NOT something I'd recommend.

[454PB]

Morgan's method works great, but be aware that the nippers can mar or even damage the female threads on the top of the press. I use a Lee turret for this purpose, and have it marked so that it is the only hole used. No sense in marring multiple turrets.

[Marc2]

Thanks for the replies. Im going to give the plier techique a try. I too have a Lee Turret press with an extra three hole. Thanks for the tip.


Marc

[Morgan Astorbilt]

454PB, The nippers I'm using, don't touch the threads, they bear on the machined flat on the top of the press. All my single stage and turret presses are either cast iron or cast semi-steel.
I agree with you, that when first trying this, it would be wise to make sure they aren't pressing on the threads, especially if the press is an aluminum or zinc alloy.
As for damage, in the event that for any reason, the top portion of the thread is ever damaged, it can be returned to form by screwing a die in from the bottom, and out the top.
It's poor design not to have a bit of relief where the threads meet the top of the press frame anyway, and if mine did, I would provide this relief with a taper reamer. This is to assure that the die lock nut, bears on the frame flat, not the threads.
Morgan

[Tom-n8ies]

The RCBS Hammer type puller works prety fast if you use a shell holder instead of the universal collet that comes with the puller. I tried it after somone else posted it on another forum. Works great.

tom

[38 Super Auto]

The RCBS Hammer type puller works prety fast if you use a shell holder instead of the universal collet that comes with the puller.

I agree. Using a shellholder in the kinetic type bullet puller is easier and faster that the collet.

[rmb721]

I use the hammer type. I put a couple cotton balls in the bottom so the bullet doesn't get damaged. The gas check usually comes off a cast boolit.

I hammer on concrete floor. Doesn't work on wood bench.

Next time, I will try with a shellholder.

[Wicky]

Ye olde end nippers work well and you get to do more casting!!! I usually use a pair of surgical forceps to remove the gas check - push one side so the check turns 90 degrees and then grasp with forceps and pull. I also use the kinetic type with a peice of high density foam stuffed in the bottom to prevent damage but with cast boolits I return them to the pot and recast.

[MightyThor]

Here are pictures of the puller I use. You can get them from Royal Arms Gunstocks In Great Falls Montana. as you push a second bullet in, the first one is pushed through, The last bullet can be pulled through or left for later.
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa7S2kkF_NSS5J1IOQ1te668s4JQgzng30paP-30USHQUHXSBJywv95zFraiqG0kQGA
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4S5NNUhHMiarYB7BKMGCU-gY2VHK0WkU36PrueGaayNqgAyx_zebsGVdNd-PAnzeg
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4DPcC1dXEqY5elJEOP1CtAl4MJFw9haBCjWfr wrEU7w-pW9lwoS2cp82s7RnSvQrg

[454PB]

Hey!, you know Jerry! He sold me one of those about 15 years ago, and it works great for jacketed, but I've never been able to pull a cast boolit with it.

Morgan, I learned of the nippers marking the top of the press while using them on my RCBS Rockchucker, that's why I started using the Lee Classic Turret.

I've owned probably 3 or 4 inertia bullet pullers, and ruined them all trying to pull cast boolits in revolver cartridges. Not only that, it usually ruins the brass to boot. In the bigger magnums, any time you can pull the boolit with an inertia puller...you have a problem with neck tension and crimp.

[joatmon]

Mighty Thor, what in the world brand of press is that? I NEVER seen one that holey!!
Thanks Aaron

[MightyThor]

Hey!, you know Jerry! He sold me one of those about 15 years ago, and it works great for jacketed, but I've never been able to pull a cast boolit with it.

I have pulled lead, but you won't reuse them, just put em back in the pot and start again.:-D

[MightyThor]

Mighty Thor, what in the world brand of press is that? I NEVER seen one that holey!!
Thanks Aaron

That is a Hollywood. see them here.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=25365

[357maximum]

Everytime I see a pic of one of them monsters...I somehow feel inadequate[smilie=1:

[Swagerman]

Its gotta be a Hollywood press, boy, look at that shell holder station...the round disk holds four different shell holders.

Wonder what one of those beast would cost...love to have one.

Jim

[MT Gianni]

Thor, are these caliber specific or do they fit a range of diameters? Gianni

[MightyThor]

Hate to hijack this thread, will post answer on the Hollywood thread.

[jlchucker]

I use an RCBS collet-type bullet puller--the kind that threads into a loading press. No damages to cases or bullets--provided that the bullet in question is of the jacketed variety. On the other hand, cast bullets will slip right out of the collet. To pull a cast bullet, I've found that the technique described by other posters who are using nippers and a loading press is the way to go--only when I had to do this once, I used a pair of vise grips, instead of nippers, in the same fashion. You'll need to melt the pulled bullets down and recast them, though.

[MightyThor]

Thor, are these caliber specific or do they fit a range of diameters? Gianni

The bullet puller will pull virtually any caliber bullet, but I believe if you want to pull little bullets, 17 etc you need to let Gerry know because he started making them just a little different to grip the really small stuff.

[TAWILDCATT]

try this:run the shell into full length sizer to end of bullet.then use puller[nips]
I use Hornady lever puller for jacket and hammer for cast.I will try nipper next time.----:coffee:----[smilie=1:---:Fire:

[lmcollins]

Guys: I have both a hammer type puller, and an RCBS collet puller. If you try and pull jacketed loads that have been loaded for a long time watchout for COLD WELD!

Cold weld is the elecroletic action between two dissimilar metals. If the collet won't grip them hard enough to let you pull your bullets without slipping off you might need to use your seatiing die to seat the bullet just a touch deeper to break the cold weld loose.

I had to do this with some 20 year old Nosler Partion bullets seatred in the 7mm RM. You could hear and feel the "pop" as the cold weld broake loose. After that they pulled easily.

[azcoyhunter]

I have one of the Cabelas Hammer type

Problem is all my rubber bands fell apart, and the collets just do not like staying on?

Need to invest in a press puller?

Are all the hammer types ruber band powered?

Clint

[Bullshop Junior]

Wire stripers work good. Take your die out, run the cartridge up in the press with the shell holder, and then use the wire stripers/Cripers to grabe the bullet, and then pull the handle up. Pulls the bullet out well with little damege.
BIC/BS Jr.

[Yance]

I have one of the Cabelas Hammer type

Problem is all my rubber bands fell apart, and the collets just do not like staying on?

Need to invest in a press puller?

Are all the hammer types ruber band powered?

Clint

Clint;

Swing by the local auto parts and check out their "O" ring selection. That's the "rubber bands" they use. Sorry, I don't have a pack to tell you the size but it should be something like 5/8"X1/2"X1/16". 1"X7/8"X1" works for Lyman 450 piston seals.

[Andy_P]

I have one of the Cabelas Hammer type

Problem is all my rubber bands fell apart, and the collets just do not like staying on?

Need to invest in a press puller?

Are all the hammer types ruber band powered?

Clint

Throw away the collet that came with the hammer and just use a shellholder.

[MtJerry]

Throw away the collet that came with the hammer and just use a shellholder.



NO!!!

Please do not do that! Using a shellholder in an inertial puller can cause the round to go off while pulling it.

I had that very thing happen to me almost two years ago.

Here is a link to a thread I posted on another site after it happened. Please read the whole thread as it took some detective work.

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48609&highlight=reloading+accident

[carpetman]

I got my RCBS collet type puller in 1967 and the lock ring did not come with an allen type set screw,thus the body would turn inside the nut and it didnt work so well. Don't know if RCBS has corrected this,but I corrected mine by replacing the nut with one with the locking device and it now works like a champ on jacketed bullets. Doesnt do too well on cast, so I remove the die run the bullet up and grab on with vise grips as has been described and remelt the bullet as it will be ruined. The kinetic puller is a poor excuse for dumbells if you are trying to develop your body and other than exercise I dont have any use for them.

[Andy_P]

Well I endured about 25 posts of "Thank God you're ok", and finally came to your
"research".

Please tell me how the use of the shellholder put that massive jagged indentation in the primer. Fact is you don't know and never will and can't admit that the use of the shellholder did not cause, nor contribute to the accident.

I'm guessing that you carelessly somehow got a large piece of debris wedged against the primer. I can assure you that I will not.

Anyways, now you've created another myth with all kinds of drama.

If I can use a shellholder to force a bullet into place over a full charge of powder and a live primer, then I can use the same shellholder to remove the bullet.

Thanks, but I'll continue using shellholders.



NO!!!

Please do not do that! Using a shellholder in an inertial puller can cause the round to go off while pulling it.

I had that very thing happen to me almost two years ago.

Here is a link to a thread I posted on another site after it happened. Please read the whole thread as it took some detective work.

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48609&highlight=reloading+accident

[MT Gianni]

Andy, The opinion on no shell holders for pullers seems to come into effect with multiple hits, perhaps a high primer and the cartridge moving to center the primer over the edge of the shell holder. I think it is a matter of caution and common sense. Gianni

[Andy_P]

Gianni,

Yes, I've seen a number of threads on the subject, all of which seem to point back to the same incident (MtJerry's). If a high primer is a possible cause (and I sincerely doubt it was in this case or could be), then it's carelessness that's to blame and not the use of a shellholder. If the primer is properly seated then I see no possible way that the shellholder could set it off. The pictures provided clearly show a deep jagged indentation in the primer. I'd love to see an explanation of how the smooth surfaces of the shellholder caused that.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/MtJerry/brass.jpg

This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

[afish4570]

I use the hammer type. I put a couple cotton balls in the bottom so the bullet doesn't get damaged. The gas check usually comes off a cast boolit.

I hammer on concrete floor. Doesn't work on wood bench.

Next time, I will try with a shellholder.

The 2x4 trick gives you a hard surface to strike with your inertia bullet puller on. A friend of mine called me up years ago and said his production press made XXXXnumber in an hour....problem was he ran out of powder somewhere in the run and had to pull 70 plus rounds...Moral to story it make good or bad loads real fast. Alot slower to pull the bad ones. Since then he added the primer warning alarm and powder alarm or what ever its called. afish4570

[carpetman]

For sure using end grain (2X4 example sited) will give you a firmer area to strike and increase effectiveness. I use a section of about 7" diameter mesquite and with it's density I have a plenty firm area-----but still consider the hammer type puller as useless except for exercise.

[MtJerry]

Well I endured about 25 posts of "Thank God you're ok", and finally came to your
"research".

Please tell me how the use of the shellholder put that massive jagged indentation in the primer. Fact is you don't know and never will and can't admit that the use of the shellholder did not cause, nor contribute to the accident.

I'm guessing that you carelessly somehow got a large piece of debris wedged against the primer. I can assure you that I will not.

Anyways, now you've created another myth with all kinds of drama.

If I can use a shellholder to force a bullet into place over a full charge of powder and a live primer, then I can use the same shellholder to remove the bullet.

Thanks, but I'll continue using shellholders.

You are certainly entitled to your evaluation of the events I went thru. Please feel free to continue using your shellholder to pull bullets.

I simply posted this as a warning to others of what is possible when not using the correct equipment.

As a thought, rebounding blows of a case on a hard surface can cause primers to back out (inetia, loose primer pockets, etc). If there is something in it's way when it happens ... well I guess you'll just have to see for yourself.

Jerry

[1hole]

"The pictures provided clearly show a deep jagged indentation in the primer. I'd love to see an explanation of how the smooth surfaces of the shellholder caused that. " "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it."

Roger that, my friend. There is NO way a shell holder, with an empty, drilled out center for priming could have put that dent in the cap, something else caused it. The only significant impact when using those pullers correctly is straight down, away from the head/primer end of the case. It looks like the puller was hammered upside down onto a pile of scrap metal parts!

The photo and explaination shows a situation in which 2 + 2 has been made to equal 5, or more, and that's not possible.

[MtJerry]

I am certainly open to other theories of the cause of this incident ... but I was using it correctly as described in the instructions and had a detonation on the third blow after pulling about 100 rounds.

The only change to the device was the use of an RCBS Shellholder and not the collet provided with the tool.


It looks like the puller was hammered upside down onto a pile of scrap metal parts!

The photo and explaination shows a situation in which 2 + 2 has been made to equal 5, or more, and that's not possible.


This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

I am only trying to help others here. Please keep your rude remarks to yourself.

[Andy_P]

I'm didn't intend to offend, and don't think that that my responses have been any more provocative than what started this:


NO!!!

Please do not do that! Using a shellholder in an inertial puller can cause the round to go off while pulling it.

I had that very thing happen to me almost two years ago.

Here is a link to a thread I posted on another site after it happened. Please read the whole thread as it took some detective work.

http://www.familyfriendsfirearms.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48609&highlight=reloading+accident

You make a claim that you back up with "detective work" and I dispute it as faulty. When I said:


This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

I described exactly your logic . It seems certain that the round went off because the primer was deeply indented and that cannot be caused by a (clean) shellholder. No-one else has experienced the same thing, but based on your single claim, the masses will sheepishly accept as fact what you say and into reloading folklore it goes.

I thought I should try to prevent that - I was only trying to help as well.

[MtJerry]

Thank you for that Andy.

I apologise if my original response was started so dramatically that it sounded offensive. That incident had a dramatic effect on me as I almost injured myself and my children.

I would LOVE to know what happened and how to prevent it in the future.

There are a lot of details I have thought about that I have never had a chance to put into writing.

1. As I stated above, loose primer pockets can give opportunity for primers to move ... up or down. If up, then there is a very real chance they are triggered by the shell holder as they can and do have room to move inside them. If down (think about using too much pressure to seat a primer) then the anvil of the primer is forced (quickly I'd think give the blows of the puller) against the primer compound and detonation occurs.

I'd more likely suspect that the primer moved up rather than down. With a shellholder, the round has room to move up and down in the shellholder and the repeated blows could give enough force for inertia to move the primer out. With the supplied collet the round is squeezed against the sides of the case and cannot move up or down.

2. Dented primer ... when the round went off, it was unsupported (no chamber) and the primer "backed out." Imagine a low pressure round such as a snake load that does not have the flash hole drilled out.

3. Movement of the round in the shellholder. Take a round, set into a shellholder, seat it as you do in the puller. Snug up the cap and give it a shake. You will hear the shell rattle. There is room for it to move in the shellholder and if a high primer situation occurs, then there is a real possiblity for detonation of the round.

Which of these happened?? I dunno ... I do know that if this were to happen to someone else and I had a chance to warn them and didn't, well .... that would bug me.

I mean no ill will towards you or anyone with the post. I just don't want anyone to get hurt.

Sorry for the drift of this thread.

[Andy_P]

It's cool Jerry. I'll take my medicine and own up to most of the ill tone. A very peculiar event - thanks for sharing it.

[MightyThor]

You know, if using the shell holder was such a good Idea, how come no one at RCBS or any of the other manufactures thought of it? From a marketing standpoint it would seem to be brilliant cause you can sell more shell holders that way. Just me, but I don't see why anyone would want to put something on, near, over or close to the primer of a loaded round and then bang stuff repeatedly. I note that with the proper collet in place it would be impossible for that collet to have caused a round to go off. With a shell holder substituted you have introduced a foreign body into the design, allowed movement where none existed before and provided a solid platform for something to rest against which might in turn contact the primer.

I am sure that everyone in this forum is right, you can probably beat on one of these things 100,000 times without an incident. You can also be the most carefull person in the world, and that is great, but none of us should ever take the position that "it can't happen to me" cause that kind of thinking can result in what many of us refer to as "a negligent discharge".
In the words of Phil Esterhouse "lets be careful out there!"

[DLCTEX]

Before I got bullet pullers I made do occasionally with a thread tap wrench. Push the bullet through the top of the press and clamp the bullet in the three jaws of the wrench and tighten. Then lower the ram, pulling the bullet. It does leave marks on the bullet, but some are slight, and the brass, primer, and powder are salvaged. DALE

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Just bumping this up. There is another thread started that asks questions answered here.
Morgan

[Marc2]

Morgan,

I have a slew of 45 ACP and 40 SW to pull. Where would I get an extended shell holder you mentioned in your instructions?

Thanks,

Marc

[Scrounger]

Morgan,

I have a slew of 45 ACP and 40 SW to pull. Where would I get an extended shell holder you mentioned in your instructions?

Thanks,

Marc


RCBS makes them.

[Marc2]

Scrounger,

Thanks.

Marc

[jlchucker]

The plier/nipper technique described by others works on cast bullets. I find visegrips even better than pliers. My experience trying to use the collet type pullers on cast bullets is that the collets do not grip the bullet tight enough in the process. They work fine with jacketed rounds, but the plier/nipper/visegrip technique is the only method that I have found successful with cast bullets--especially jacketed ones. You'll save the case but the bullet needs to go back into the lead pot.

[floridaboy]

Here is what i have found out to work. Use a socket that will fit over the ram in your press. Put the bullet in the shell holder and put the socket over it and run the bullet up through the socket and grab it with side cutters and lower the ram. This keeps from damaging the threads in you press by running the bullet through the the threads . Works for me.

[miestro_jerry]

I still and for the near future use one of those kinetic bullet pullers. I do have the type that a Rock Chucker is good for, but when a non reloader friend comes over I like to pull a bullet in front of him. You would think I was playing with a kilo of Nitro, when they watch me use the hammer pull method.

But I generally don't have one or two these days that I have to take a part.

Jerry

[spurrit]

This subject came up once before, and I'll offer the same advice I did before.

I've got both inertia and collet type pullers, which I use for jacketed bullets. For cast bullets, I prefer to pull them with end nippers, as this is the fastest.
I do this by installing the proper shell holder in a press with no die, and raising the cartridge so the bullet protrudes above the press frame, grasp it with the nippers right at the case mouth, and lower the ram. The bullet pulls out with almost no damage, and the powder charge isn't spilled. I've had to throw away very few bullets, the slight marks are almost completely hidden when they're crimped back in.
The only cartridges that will not work, are ones too short to protrude above the frame, and they can be done with extended shell holders.

The type of end nipper is important, it has to be the old farrier-style, not the shoemaker-type mostly seen. I've shown three in the photo below, the short red one in the center is the old one I've been using for many years to pull bullets. The one on the left is a new Diamond brand available in hardware and farm supply stores. The one on the right, is a modern Craftsman of the type that is not able to grasp the bullet, save it for pulling nails and cotter pins.
Morgan

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa159/pgfaini/100_1800.jpg

Morgan,

The ones you're calling hoof nippers are actually for pulling shoes. Nippers have a knife blade thin edge, and a lot longer bevel. The hoof nippers are considerably more expensive. They START at about $85! A lot of farm stores sell a design that's about halfway inbetween nippers and pullers, and would be perfect for what we're discussing here, but are useless for anything to do with shoeing horses. They can generally be had for about $20-30. Hardware stores carry what's called a "tile" nipper, which, I suppose, would work, too.

[spurrit]

I use the hammer type. I put a couple cotton balls in the bottom so the bullet doesn't get damaged. The gas check usually comes off a cast boolit.

I hammer on concrete floor. Doesn't work on wood bench.

Next time, I will try with a shellholder.

I was using my anvil, but one cold night, decided I wanted to work in the house. Grabbed a 35 lb. bumbell, and it worked great. Hold it between your knees.


Here is what i have found out to work. Use a socket that will fit over the ram in your press. Put the bullet in the shell holder and put the socket over it and run the bullet up through the socket and grab it with side cutters and lower the ram. This keeps from damaging the threads in you press by running the bullet through the the threads . Works for me.

A large flat washer works, too.

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Spurrit,
Read my post, you quoted it. I never called them "hoof nippers". I called them "farrier-style", because as you said, they're used for pulling shoes. I'm sure you meant horse shoes, not brake shoes, which would make them "automotive style" :) Been around horses most of my life, pulled a loose shoe or two myself, and know how to use these tools. :):)
Morgan

[spurrit]

Morgan,

I wasn't meaning to be snide, I was mostly 'splainin' for the folks from town. I know a lot of horse owners that have tried to trim their own horses, using pullers. Makes them feel better about giving me $70 a head for shoeing.

[DLCTEX]

Spurrit: the only dumbell I have found around here is my BIL and he won't hold still for me clamping him between my knees. I do have a small anvil fashioned from a piece of railroad iron that serves well. DALE

[EDK]

I made a 7/8 by 14 bushing to protect the threads in my Rock Chucker, with a 1/2+ hole through the center. Run the round up through the bushing, clamp on with a set of VISEGRIPS and then lower the ram. Boolit goes in the reject can under the lubri-sizers, but brass and primer are saved...powder could be too, I guess.

I had to buy an impact puller to pull 44 wadcutters. I had a powder dump malfunction and pulled about 50 rounds to be sure...found two cartridges without powder...better safe than sorry.

:cbpour::redneck::Fire:

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Morgan,

I wasn't meaning to be snide, I was mostly 'splainin' for the folks from town. I know a lot of horse owners that have tried to trim their own horses, using pullers. Makes them feel better about giving me $70 a head for shoeing.

Hey, can't you see by the smilies I was just pulling your leg?
Morgan

[Bad Water Bill]

I think a lot pf folks are forgetting a key word here INERTIA puller. What ever force is driving the boolit out of the case will also drive the primer deeper into the pocket since the same force is applied to both. I think the problem started when the primer was installed and crushed as seen in the photo. This could have driven the anvil way to far forward just looking for the slightest pressure to fire off the primer. With the impact of the puller the anvil got its excuse and BANG. :Fire: Do not EVER load a cartridge with a damaged primer. Just my 2 cents BWB:castmine:

[yodar]

I have a RCBS collet type puller that works great on rifle rounds. I have never tried it on handgun bullets, but would assume equally good performance. Midway is a good source.

I threw out the old hammer a long time ago!

Midway has the Hornady cam-lock collet type puller on sale

(does anybody have a hornady 6.5 mm collet to sell?


yodar

[GOPHER SLAYER]

Several years ago at the big gun show in Pomona Ca. I bought a Forster collet type bullet puller for five bucks . I wondered why the man sold it to me so cheap untill I used it .What a pain. I usually marr the neck of the case. I have all the collets from 22 to 45. I have two inertia pullers and I use shell holders with it and I have no trouble pulling bullets. I rarely shoot jacketed bullets any more and I don't crimp lead ones.

[MasS&W]

I once got 2 squibs from a larger batch of loads that I no longer trusted (can ya blame me?) Rather than pulling them all on my lonesome, I bought a second impact puller and payed my friend in beer to empty and re-load pullers while I hammered away. He dumped the boolits and powder into a seive with appropriately sized holes, tossed the cases in a bin, and inserted a new reject in the puller. Wash rinse repeat we were through the 150 under powered 38s 10 minutes and 2 winter lagers later.

[Longwood]

I am selling a RCBS on the selling forum..

[Alan in Vermont]

Gianni,

Yes, I've seen a number of threads on the subject, all of which seem to point back to the same incident (MtJerry's). If a high primer is a possible cause (and I sincerely doubt it was in this case or could be), then it's carelessness that's to blame and not the use of a shellholder. If the primer is properly seated then I see no possible way that the shellholder could set it off. The pictures provided clearly show a deep jagged indentation in the primer. I'd love to see an explanation of how the smooth surfaces of the shellholder caused that.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/MtJerry/brass.jpg

This is a classic example of how myths are started. "A bad thing happened to me when I was using a shellholder, therefore the shellholder caused it".

Just ran across this thread. I realize it is quite old and the link to whatever event caused the whole "don't use a shellholder" debate is gone so I couldn't explore that.

I am assuming the picture in the quoted post is of the alleged round that went off. I'm trying to figure out how the primer could have initiated the detonation, or even been a part of it and not been ejected from the primer pocket. Supposedly the first thing that happens on primer detonation, with an uncrimped primer, is that the primer moves out of the pocket from the force of the primer flash. Also there is evidence that a primer can cause the case shoulder to set back by having enough oomph to push the case forward while the primer is stopped against the bolt face/standing breech/recoil shield, again moving the primer rearward relative to the primer pocket.

So, I want to know how that primer, that allegedly set of a round in an inertia puller, still has a sharp edged inward dent and is still in the primer pocket.

For some reason I'm seeing a big neon sign flashing "BOGUS" all over this one.

[Longwood]

[QUOTE=Alan in Vermont;1743153

So, I want to know how that primer, that allegedly set of a round in an inertia puller, still has a sharp edged inward dent and is still in the primer pocket.

For some reason I'm seeing a big neon sign flashing "BOGUS" all over this one.[/QUOTE]

There has to be more to this.
I am betting he had put something behind the cartridge.

[jcharb]

Marc,

The collet type pullers work great with jacketed bullets. I have never tried them with cast... If you are willing to re-melt what you pull, then the pliers/wire cutters on the top of the press should be really quick.

The impact puller is about your only choice when you want to get wad cutters out :)

John

if you are useing a cast bullet with a gas check how do you get the gas check out along with the bullet

[Safeshot]

An appropriate size steel flat washer (or "fender washer") on the top of the press will protect the threads in the press when using pliers or nippers to pull bullets in the press, if that is a concern.

[powderburnerr]

the flat wire strippers lay flat ,bridge across the top and do not contact the threads in the press.

The best thing to use for an anvil is an ingot of lead when using an inerta puller , works like a dead blow

[Safeshot]

If you are concerned about marking or damaging the top of your press when pulling bullets with a "nipper", just place a flat steel washer of the appropriate size on the top of the press.

[ell198679]

Do these inertia pullers routinely damage the primers??? Or should they be okay?

[Nickle]

Never had a problem myself.

[americanjack]

sorry all but i just joined cast boolits and cant figure out how to start a thread can anyone help me

[ell198679]

Leave the stickies and classics section for one. Its on the top of the page if you haven't figured it out yet.

[Jammersix]

Pulling bullets is about the brass, for me. I've never had good accuracy with any load with a pulled bullet.

[1500FPS]

Pulling bullets is about the brass, for me. I've never had good accuracy with any load with a pulled bullet.

I could agree with that if the bullets are cast, but can't say I've ever had bad accuracy with pulled jacketed bullets.

[badbob454]

lead is a great anvil.for inerta pullers i use a large brick size hunk of lead it is soft enough to give with the hardest blow , and it is much better and less give than a piece of wood , try it you will never go back to striking on wood again, takes about half the hits it takes to releade the boolit than wood

[a.squibload]

My aluminum chuck in a hammer-style puller lost
the edges that hold the case rim. Was pulling
some 40s, crimped too tight I guess as it shaved
those lips right off. Parts not available, maybe
someone has a puller with cracked plastic?
I would just buy a new one but I've been using
wire strippers to grab the boolits, pull them with
the Rockchucker.
Cut a piece of conduit to fit over the ram for
pulling short pistol rounds.

[Nickle]

Believe it or not, try a shellholder. I've used them on the RCBS and the Dillon.

[a.squibload]

Dang, thanks, I read about that here somewhere and forgot all about it!

[kbstenberg]

I haven't read all of the comments of this thread. But I use an electricians wire cutter to hold the bullets instead of a pliers or side cutter. They hold the bullet better. And the flat side of the cutter doesn't mar the top face of the press. That is for rifle bullets.
For shorter pistol bullets I use a large enough socket so the socket fits (cup side down) over the ram and the pistol case comes up through the ratchet hole. Raise the ram so that the bullet comes above the socket. Grab the bullet with the wire cutter then just lower the ram to pull the bullet. If the socket is too short you may have to add some sort of shim to get more height.
As to getting the GC out. Take a pliers very "slightly" squeeze the case neck so it is oval and shake the case (upside down) until the check comes out of the case. Then it is just a matter of running the case neck into a sizing die to make the neck round again. Kevin

[grumman581]

I use an old pair of diagonal cutting pliers that have wire stripping holes in them. Somewhat similar to the following picture, but I think the holes are not as close together and they are a bit further from the end of the pliers. Regular diagonal cutting pliers do not work as well since the bullet is likely to just slide out as the cutting edges start to close. With the stripper holes in it though, the bullet does not move and the sides of the hole that you are using start to punch an indentation into the bullet allowing it to hold onto the bullet better. It definitely puts a mark on the bullet so that you won't be reusing it, but since I case my own bullets, it's no big deal -- the bullet just goes back in the lead scrap / reject pile and I recast it the next time I'm casting bullets.

http://www.kleintools.com/sites/kleintools/files/styles/uc_product_full/public/images/productimages/D243-8_ICON.JPG

I suspect that you could make one of these out of an old pair of diagonal cutting pliers by just drilling a small hole in the middle of the cutting edges where they come together and then filing down the inner edge of the hole so that it was tapered a bit to make it sharper.

[a.squibload]

Nickle, I tried the shell holder in the hammer-puller, works great.

I've been using the cheap flat crimper-strippers in the press,
like grumman says, the corners of the stripper holes really grab the boolit.
Even jaxketed ones don't slip.

[Nickle]

You're welcome. I've been doing the shell holder trick for years, learned it from my father.

[FLYCUTTER]

I got some ammo for free that was crimped in hard and you could not pull the bullets with a collet or the hammer type so I ran them through a full length sizing die and used the hammer type again and they came out slicker than goat snot.

[Alferd Packer]

Just lay a large flat washer on the hole and that will protect the threads as the pliers can bear against it to maintain a grip on the bullet. Just let it float loose atop the threaded hole.

[Texas by God]

It may have been mentioned already but placing a foam ear plug in the hammer puller saves the tips on sp jacketed bullets. I also learned the shell holder trick many moons ago. I'm shooting up some wretchedly disfigured 8mm 196gr fmj from the wrong pliers decades ago. Funny thing is they group 2-3"@100yds from my Tikka.

[GONRA]

Over the years. GONRA has pulled 1000 9MM bullets and 1000 .380ACP Bullets with inertia pullers. (One broke.)
More recently, also 1000 Czech LSC 7.62x25mm Tokarev bullets with my olde Forester Collet puller.

>>> You gotta select a "puller" that "just happens" to fit yer application. <<<

[Safeshot]

Morgan's method works great, but be aware that the nippers can mar or even damage the female threads on the top of the press. I use a Lee turret for this purpose, and have it marked so that it is the only hole used. No sense in marring multiple turrets.


I place a flat washer on top of the press frame to protect the threads. It seems to
work well for me.

[Conditor22]

Budget Bullet Puller
1) wire stripper
2) Drill out a hole in wire stripper or? 1 size smaller than the desired bullet; round off edges with a file
3) Get proper shell holder
4) If cartridge won't reach through the top of the press, get pipe/tubing (PVC is OK) that will fit over the ram on your press and is ½ in taller than the (brass set in shell case in ram) your pulling the bullet out of. Raise the ram through the pipe/tubing- put case in shell holder. lower ram until boolit base is flush with the top of the pipe/tubing grip with stripper and lower ram to pull pistol boolits.

https://i.imgur.com/A1U1G1b.png

https://i.imgur.com/cOIs3HU.png

https://i.imgur.com/a3bBlyD.png

https://i.imgur.com/c9KKzfa.png


If you size the hole right, 99% of the J-words are reusable.

[Roger Kehr]

Man o man. I wish I'd found this thread sooner.
I tried the RCBS collet puller on lead RN cast bullet in 45 ACP. Didn't work at all. The RCBS inertia worked out well, but slow. I'm remelting anyway so pinchers would have been so much faster and better.
Next time...

[popper]

full length sizing die to squish the lead and wire stipper/PVC pipe in the loading press. For Jacketed, seat deeper and use collar puller (hornady) so they are re-useable.

[Trailboss]

Rcbs inertia / kinetic hammer type puller piece of junk breaks collets , no warranty. Useless , useless

[GONRA]

GONRA sez -from decades of "experience" get a variety of bullet pullers.
Best one is Situation Dependent. They'll ALL get used .....
Hammer type inertial pullers will get "used up" or more likely - "busted."

While yer at it, get a 7/8-14 tap and 7/8-14 die to chase threads.
(You can thank me later.)

[Safeshot]

If you use "nippers" on the top of a press, just place a flat washer that just fits over the bullet on top of the press to protect the threads in the press.

[Conditor22]

Here's a newer option, I was given 450 223 loaded in LC 07 brass that had bad primer pockets -- the primer fell out when fired.

I bought this, bolted it to a 2x4, and clamped it to a bench (I can easily stick it in a corner when not using it)

Attached a hose leading to a catch container and went to town.

Frankford Arsenal Pile Driver Bullet Puller

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Driver-Universal-1116083/dp/B084HLTTJ7/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2TCAA2W98XE2F&dchild=1&keywords=piledriver+bullet+puller&qid=1625150753&sprefix=Pile+Driver+Bullet+Puller%2Caps%2C354&sr=8-2

It's a little loud, I found using a short dowel helps in removing the brass after pulling the boolit/bullet

[Alferd Packer]

I think small tweezers would pull out a neck stuck gas check if you poke one side to tip it on its side in the neck.

[15meter]

Here are pictures of the puller I use. You can get them from Royal Arms Gunstocks In Great Falls Montana. as you push a second bullet in, the first one is pushed through, The last bullet can be pulled through or left for later.
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa7S2kkF_NSS5J1IOQ1te668s4JQgzng30paP-30USHQUHXSBJywv95zFraiqG0kQGA
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4S5NNUhHMiarYB7BKMGCU-gY2VHK0WkU36PrueGaayNqgAyx_zebsGVdNd-PAnzeg
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4DPcC1dXEqY5elJEOP1CtAl4MJFw9haBCjWfr wrEU7w-pW9lwoS2cp82s7RnSvQrg

I know this is an ancient post, but is this puller still in production?

I certainly could use one. looks like the fastest easiest one out there if it works.

[15meter]

Here are pictures of the puller I use. You can get them from Royal Arms Gunstocks In Great Falls Montana. as you push a second bullet in, the first one is pushed through, The last bullet can be pulled through or left for later.
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa7S2kkF_NSS5J1IOQ1te668s4JQgzng30paP-30USHQUHXSBJywv95zFraiqG0kQGA
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4S5NNUhHMiarYB7BKMGCU-gY2VHK0WkU36PrueGaayNqgAyx_zebsGVdNd-PAnzeg
http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf4jO6cxTWa4DPcC1dXEqY5elJEOP1CtAl4MJFw9haBCjWfr wrEU7w-pW9lwoS2cp82s7RnSvQrg

Still would like one of these bullet pullers.

Has anybody seen one of these since 2008?

[indian joe]

Rcbs inertia / kinetic hammer type puller piece of junk breaks collets , no warranty. Useless , useless

just pulled a couple hundred with a Hornady (chosen because it was the cheapest one they had) kinetic puller - two hits got most - some military stuff I could not shift at all though - saved powder and projectiles for re use - I think a couple hundred more and this plastic hammer is toast but I am done so its ok.

[15meter]

just pulled a couple hundred with a Hornady (chosen because it was the cheapest one they had) kinetic puller - two hits got most - some military stuff I could not shift at all though - saved powder and projectiles for re use - I think a couple hundred more and this plastic hammer is toast but I am done so its ok.

The rumor is that if you run old military rounds into a seater dia first to break the bullets loose, they will come out much easier, no matter which puller you use. Not tried it yet. Have a hundred+ 30's vintage 06 to try it on.

After the 706 other projects get done.

Been using an RCBS inertia puller for over 30 years, haven't broken it yet. I have worn out a couple of aluminum collets.

Need to try the shellholder trick, that may be the solution to the cheezy collet.

I've got a line on an automatic collet bullet puller that may make bullet pulling easier.

If I get it and it works, I'll post the details.

[Bmi48219]

…I think a couple hundred more and this plastic hammer is toast but I am done so its ok.

Lately I’ve been pulling a lot of reloads from unknown sources. Depending on the guy that loaded them some are crimped tighter than others. Factory loaded alway require more effort to pull, for me. So far the FA kinetic I bought four years ago is still in one piece. My fear is I’ll be half way through pulling down a batch when it gives up the ghost. Guess I should just buy a spare now.

[15meter]

I think small tweezers would pull out a neck stuck gas check if you poke one side to tip it on its side in the neck.

I use a piece of baling wire with a hook bent in the end. Hold the case upside down to get the gas check to the neck, stick the wire up through the neck and hook the check.

Works way better than it has a right to, my only guess is it works as well as it does because it's real baling wire. Recycled from a bale of straw baled in an Oliver 60W baler.

The best baling wire is used baling wire.

And you can fix ANYTHING but a busted heart with baling wire.

[indian joe]

[QUOTE=15meter;5371435]The rumor is that if you run old military rounds into a seater dia first to beak the bullets. Loose, they will come out much easier, no matter which puller you use. Not tried it yet. Have a hundred+ 30's vintage 06 to try it on.

that is a classic "why didnt I think of that" ------- makes a whole lot of sense

[gwpercle]

Breaking the crimp by seating deeper works like a champ . Done thousands of WWII 30-06 .
Military surplus would sell belts of linked 30-06 ammo that was used in air craft machine guns , linked belts came in ammo cans ... can't get those any more ...every 5 th round was a tracer .
Dirt cheap ammo but getting unlinked and bullets pulled was a lot of work ...
You save a lot of work by "breaking the crimp: .
Gary

[rbuck351]

I have RCBS collet and inertia pullers. I rarely use the collet puller as most of the pulling I do is with cast. The inertia puller I have is around 40 years old and after wearing out two or three sets of collets I found out about using shell holders instead. As far as breaking or not being able to pull bullets well, technique is very important. Holding the handle firmly like you would a hammer will break it eventually. The harder you hang on to the handle the quicker it will break and the less effective it will work. Hold it with just your fore finger and thumb loosely allowing it to rebound freely. This does three things 1. It keeps your hand from forcing the puller head into the "anvil" via the handle putting a lot of pressure on the head handle junction. 2. The rapid rebound adds inertia affect for bullet/case separation. 3. It allows a very fast puller head speed for more inertia and less head/handle stress.

[Mal Paso]

Every Time I come to Cast Boolits "Pulling Bullets" is the First Thread I See!

Just a Hint. You will NEVER get any kind of velocity pulling bullets. Pushing them is much better and most of the rest of this forum is dedicated to just that.:wink:

[15meter]

Every Time I come to Cast Boolits "Pulling Bullets" is the First Thread I See!

Just a Hint. You will NEVER get any kind of velocity pulling bullets. Pushing them is much better and most of the rest of this forum is dedicated to just that.:wink:

But when you are a bit slow on the uptake, (like me) sometimes you have to resort to "error remediation".

[shooterg]

I use a piece of baling wire with a hook bent in the end. Hold the case upside down to get the gas check to the neck, stick the wire up through the neck and hook the check.

Works way better than it has a right to, my only guess is it works as well as it does because it's real baling wire. Recycled from a bale of straw baled in an Oliver 60W baler.

The best baling wire is used baling wire.

And you can fix ANYTHING but a busted heart with baling wire.

ALMOST ANYTHING . Duct tape does the rest !

[15meter]

ALMOST ANYTHING . Duct tape does the rest !

In the boating world it's referred to as stainless steel rigging tape.

Well, the color is sorta right and it doesn't rust:kidding:

[Milky Duck]

Ive used the vice grips on top of press..and have plastic inertia jobbie and I too use shell holders...the ones that come with a LEE auto prime NOT the ones for the press.....havent had any issues yet...must try the nipper idea as I can feel a cast boolit pulling session coming soon if I cant get the 'problem child " to behave soon.

now this spontanious detonation of primer thing......
years ago when still getting someone else to load for me,a primer got jammed,I was all nervous about it going off,so fella took it out,put it in a vice and squashed it flatter than a flat thing,no detonation,he then lightly tapped the vice with a hammer and it went off.
last week I had a primer not fire despite a double hit with firing pin,so I popped it out of shell in press CAREFULLY and took it out to wood shed,placed it on small piece of metal and hit it gently with back of hammer....it was LOUD... my poor ears were still ringing hours later... so in the interests of peacekeeping,here is my theory.
maybe what happened in the case of primer going off in inertia puller is something like this....
the primer got squished somewhere along the line,seating being the most probable,or a jam in gun maybe??? a stuck round with 2nd tried to chamber behind it??? and this round with munted primer put in inertia puller and given a golly good smack,did the rest...chances are it would have done eggzachary the same thing with the stupid fiddly plastic triangles and rubber Oring.....

[Milky Duck]

In the boating world it's referred to as stainless steel rigging tape.

Well, the color is sorta right and it doesn't rust:kidding:

here in Godzone its called hundred mile n hour tape...came from its use holding munted rally cars together...

[GONRA]

GONRA sez - primers are tricky! Be careful!

[M-Tecs]

The rumor is that if you run old military rounds into a seater dia first to break the bullets loose, they will come out much easier, no matter which puller you use. Not tried it yet. .

Not a rumor. Pulled maybe 10K of M118 173 gr FMJ's for Mexican Match. Break the bullet seal and pulling was noticeably easier when using the Forster Superfast (Possum Type) Bullet Puller https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012693079

https://snipercentral.com/history-m118-ammunition/#:~:text=%E2%80%98Mexican%20Match%E2%80%99%20was%2 0made%20by%20using%20military%207.62,was%20during% 20the%20PanAm%20games%20in%20Mexico%20City.

‘Mexican Match’ was made by using military 7.62 brass and loading it with the Sierra 168gr Match King bullet. The name ‘Mexican Match’ reportedly came about because the first time this load was used was during the PanAm games in Mexico City. The accuracy improvement over the M118 Match ammo was remarkable, often shooting as much as 50% tighter groups. Because of these results a new load was developed called the M852.