GPR .50 Flintlock

[peter72]

Thought I'd try the 13 shots in 30 minutes thing today as per National competition rules in the back yard(I think it's National, as in Australian).
Well I didn't do so well [emoji52].
I managed 9 shots and even then I had to stop wiping between shots towards the end.
I did get a few flashes in the pan which slowed me right down.
Lesson learnt to have my gear layed out and be organised.
Also learnt the internals of the lock need some adjusting as its allowing the flint to strike the pan.
It doesn't touch it when slowly let forward but the inertia from the spring let's it hit it.

I don't know how high a quality the Lyman locks are but the Flints are gouging the frizzen a bit, even with the flint set every which way you can imagine. Is this something that would benefit from hardening?
Anyway, really enjoying shooting this and heres a pic of my 9 shot effort.
If I can lose the flinch I'll do a lot better [emoji3]
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/03/b81527a101e226355bc8b34c2da69942.jpg

[dondiego]

Probably better than many could do. What was the distance?

[peter72]

50 metres

[OuchHot!]

If that is offhand, I would try patting yourself on the back. I have a gpr in .50 flint and find it to be as accurate as some very much more expensive guns. Mine had a very sharp edged bore that needed to smooth out before it quit cutting patches and throwing flyers. I finally stroked the bore with a brush wrapped with 0000 steel wool. Simply shooting it a 100 times or so would probably have accomplished the same thing. It is not uncommon to drill the flash hole with a very slightly larger drill bit. Every lock built has sooner or later hit the market with a frizzen that needed a casenite hardening treatment. How bad is the gouging? I noted that I put my last flint in with the bevel down, I guess I was trying to get a better attack on the frizzen. My gpr works well now.....maybe just a little fettling is needed?