Super newbie looking to do 45 ACP super cheap

[rmcelwee]

I know some of my terminology is incorrect but you will have to cut me some slack. First post here...

I'm an avid shooter and have just now gotten into reloading. I go out early in the morning and pick up brass at the range. Of course, I pick up just about everything I come across and have started to have quite a collection of 45 ACP brass even though I don't have any dies for it yet. A couple of weeks ago there wasn't much brass but I got a wild hair and picked up a bunch of range lead that was sitting on the ground. After cleaning it up I found I have 17 pounds of it sitting in a box. I wasn't really sure what to do with it but then it hit me. My father is coming up for a week and I have his father's old M1917 revolver. I'd like for us to make some cast boolits for it, load them and then go shooting. Since this isn't my "passion" (at least at this point) I want to do it on the cheap. My plan is to take my old propane burner and a cast iron skillet, melt the lead, get rid of the junk in there and spoon feed it into a double boolit mold. I've got a stack of wax toilet rings that I will be melting down and using for lube (I'll stand my boolits upright in a pan and fill the pan with molten wax and then punch the boolits out of the block when the wax is hard). Next I'll run them through a Lee sizing die and run them through my Lee reloading press. That is my plan. So, I'm looking for you guys to tell me where I am going wrong. Here is what I am going to buy:

Metal spatula and spoon for the lead - $5 (?)
Lee 90348 (200 grain SWC double cavity mold) - $22
Lee 90005 (mold handles) - $22
Lee 90055 (.452 sizing die and lube) - $30
Lee 90968 (45ACP 4 die set) - $42

It looks like I can get by with only spending $125. I have all the brass, primers, powder. So, what I am forgetting? What am I doing wrong? Where am I going to goof up (equipment wise). I know, tons of questions. I have been a lurker for a week and have read a lot of threads (as well as watched a lot of youtube videos) but this is still all new to me. I'm looking for people to tell me "you need a 6 hole mold instead of a 2 hole mold" or "that 200 grain swc boolit is going to suck with the M1917", etc.

Thanks!!!

(this will be me soon:)

131671

[Blammer]

the only flaw I see is your wax toilet rings, I suspect they are not wax but a petrol based something or other. Probably not a good lube.

check out the lube section and there are some fairly easy pan lube recipe's that are cheap to boot.

make sure you have some gloves and some goggles when casting. :)

do not add cold/wet lead to a hot melted pot. :)

otherwise sounds like you're on the right track!

Welcome to the board!

[rmcelwee]

the only flaw I see is your wax toilet rings, I suspect they are not wax but a petrol based something or other. Probably not a good lube.



I saw this video on the wax rings (he says it is very similar to alox and comes from the same factory):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxT2I49xbZ8

Again, I have no idea. I guess the sizing die comes with it so maybe I can skip that step. Seemed like a good project to me.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

actually, the two cavity mold comes with handles...The Lee handles you list are for the 6 cavity molds, which do not come with handles. So you can save that $22 also.
If you are going to cast with a spoon/Ladle, I'd strongly suggest a real boolit casting ladle, either the Lyman or a rowell #2 (don't bother with the Lee ladle, because a soup spoon will work better.)

and honestly, toilet bowl wax ring will probably work fine for a cheap 45acp lube...maybe add some vasoline to soften it.
Good Luck.

[Yodogsandman]

Also in addition to the great advice you've already received. When you melt the range scrap, throw a handful of sawdust on top and let it sit for a moment to dry out and char, then stir it in real good. This will clean the dirt out of your alloy. Just skim it off and the dirt comes out with it. Then put a little piece, the size of a large pea, of wax in it to blend the metals together. You can light off the fumes from both the sawdust and wax with a match for reducing the toxic fumes.

[country gent]

WHen you melt down the Toilet rings do it in a double boiler. Emmerts lube should work great for 45 acp. 50% beeswax 40% crisco unsalted shortening 5% -10% canola or olive oil and 5% anahydrous lanolin if available 5% oil with lanolin 10% without. In a double boiler melt everything together stiring to blend well. This lube works pretty well. The cast iron skillet will work but the big flat bottom will make ladling a little harder. A pot or soup pan steel or stainless no aluminum here also will work. Obviously after melting lead in a skillet or pan never use it for food again.

[mdi]

Don't bother with the toilet rings. At one time they were made from beeswax, but now they are just the lowest gunk from refining (don't know the exact terminology). If you are purchasing the Lee sizing kit there will be a bottle of alox included so just use that. Alox works quite well on lower pressure stuff.

Get a slotted spoon from a "dollar store", just a buck. Just get a "normal" 3 die set, you don't need an FCD. Ferget the mold handles as they come with Lee's mold and get a Lee Ladle (not the best ladle, but it works). And while you're at it buy a Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, because even though casting sinkers and casting bullets are a lot alike, there's a bit more to making shootable bullets.

[Bigslug]

Get a small casting ladle. These are designed to pour straight into a mold block. Trying to do it with a spoon probably won't be pretty. It'll only add $20-$25 bucks to the cost of your party.

You're fine for now with two cavity molds. The big ones, in my opinion, should wait until you have a bottom-pour pot. Nice thing about the Lee 2 cavities is that they come with handles attached.

As for lube, stick with the Lee tumble-lube mold designs ("TL" designator in front of the part number) and just tumble lube them with Lee Liquid Alox. Save the lube-making for when you're ready to dive deeper.

[twc1964]

As said before, tumble lube would be super cheap. Also if you have a toaster oven, you might consider powder coating. Fairly easy and no lubes to mess with. A plus is the can be any color you want em to be. But for tumble lbe recipes, just go to lube section and look at the stickeys. Recluse tells you how to make it and it darn sure works.

[bangerjim]

Using a spoon will turn you off VERY fast to this fun hobby. Get a bottom/side pour RCBS cast iron ladle. around $30 tops. Well worth it!!!!

Once you get hooked you will want to go with a bottom pour Lee 4-20 pot......faster and easier for a LOT of people on her, including me. I never use my ladle anymore.

Use the ALOX that comes with the Lee kit for starters. Forget your toilet wax. Lube-making is another hobby in itself!!!!!!!!!

Or do as I and thousands of others on here do and power coat (PC) your boolits. Very inexpensive if you use the dry tumble method in a coolwhip container. Check out the stickies in "alternative coatings" area. Once you use PC, you will never use grease again.

You got a lot and LOTS of reading and practicing ahead. Have fun!

bangerjim

[geargnasher]

If ladle casting, stick with a two-cavity mould at first, you may find it very difficult to cast fast enough to keep the mould hot enough for good fill-out until you get the hang of things. I cast a zillion .38 special bullets long ago with just an iron pot on a burner and a garage-sale au jus ladle that I'd bent a spout into with some pliers.

Lube, forget the wax rings. They're too sticky to pan-lube with and will just pull out of the grooves. It's messy, time-consuming, and will turn you off to the whole deal. I'd suggest going to the lube sub-forum and find the thread on Ben's Liquid Lube, it's the latest and possibly greatest liquid DIY coating that really seems to work well, it's cheap, fast, and good. You'll need to buy a push-through sizer kit from Lee precision and it comes with the Liquid Alox you'll need. I hear some places are gouging you with hazmat because of the liquid, find one that doesn't, perhaps MidSouth shooter's or Titan Reloading. With the Lee bullet sizer kit you just use your reloading press to size the bullets perfectly and it's super-fast and easy, as is the 'tumble lube" method.

A pot, heat source, ladle, some nice pine sawdust or pet bedding to flux with, a cheap mould, and a few odd things like old cotton towels and some basic PPE, a metal bean can to dump your skimmings in, maybe a fan to blow 'fumes' away from your face, the Lee sizer, some tumble lube, a cool-whip container or sandwich baggies for applying the lube, a piece of waxed paper to throw the lubed bullets on to dry, and you'll be set.

Gear

[rmcelwee]

Good tips!

Do I need to use a different mold (small lube rings design vs the one large ring in the Lee 90348 mold) if I am using the Lee Alox lube?

[earthling121757]

Lee tumble lube will work with either bullet style. The hardest part is not getting too much on. You also might try lubing and loading some as cast. That older revolver might need a boolet larger than .452. I also recommend getting a good ladle. The money you've saved not having to buy handles you can spend on one of these...

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/286579/lyman-lead-dipper?cm_vc=ProductFinding

It'll work sooooo much better than a spoon.

[Mk42gunner]

Welcome aboard,

Somewhere in the thread about Ben's Liquid Lube is a link to a youtube video of Ben's that shows just how little BLL is needed to lube boolits. It is a surprisingly small amount.

I will add my recommendation to get an actual casting ladle/dipper, I prefer the one from RCBS. By not buying the Lee six cavity handles, you are already budgeted for most of the cost.

A two cavity mold will be a lot easier to learn with than a six.

Gloves, long sleeved shirt and eye protection. I like a full face shield rather than goggles, less fogging for me, plus I can wear my regular safety glasses easier.

Robert

[rmcelwee]

OK, I guess I'm in the club now. Just placed an order with Amazon.com for $108 shipped:

Lyman Dipper - $22
Lee 200 grain SWC .452 double cavity mold - $21
Lee 45 ACP 3 die set - $35
Lee .452 lube and size kit - $ 30

[Jupiter7]

OK, I guess I'm in the club now. Just placed an order with Amazon.com for $108 shipped:

Lyman Dipper - $22
Lee 200 grain SWC .452 double cavity mold - $21
Lee 45 ACP 3 die set - $35
Lee .452 lube and size kit - $ 30

I'd seriously consider adding a separate crimp die, the lee taper crimp die works great.

[bgokk]

Welcome aboard! Don't forget to let us know how it goes and take pics.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'd seriously consider adding a separate crimp die, the lee taper crimp die works great.
I'm pretty sure rmcelwee (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?39633-rmcelwee) will be loading with a single stage press...So, no need for a second crimp die.

[rmcelwee]

I have a Lee single stage as well as a Lee Classic 4-Hole Turret. I didn't order the 4 die set based on recommendations from here and elsewhere. I saved $8 but could buy one for $20 if needed.

[Ken in Iowa]

OK, I guess I'm in the club now. Just placed an order with Amazon.com for $108 shipped:

Lyman Dipper - $22
Lee 200 grain SWC .452 double cavity mold - $21
Lee 45 ACP 3 die set - $35
Lee .452 lube and size kit - $ 30

Welcome to the club!

It is good that you bought the Lyman ladle over the LEE.

Have fun and be safe!

[Animal]

OK, I guess I'm in the club now. Just placed an order with Amazon.com for $108 shipped:

Lyman Dipper - $22
Lee 200 grain SWC .452 double cavity mold - $21
Lee 45 ACP 3 die set - $35
Lee .452 lube and size kit - $ 30

You missed the most important thing. A reputable Bullet Casting Handbook. Hopefully you have a good Handloading manual that talks a little about bullet casting. Good luck, enjoy.

[Jupiter7]

I'm pretty sure rmcelwee (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?39633-rmcelwee) will be loading with a single stage press...So, no need for a second crimp die.

Not sure how the press type is relevant. I load on a lee turret which is akin to 4 single stage presses. Seating and crimping at same time causes countless problems for many.

[Jupiter7]

I have a Lee single stage as well as a Lee Classic 4-Hole Turret. I didn't order the 4 die set based on recommendations from here and elsewhere. I saved $8 but could buy one for $20 if needed.

The lee taper crimp dye is only $12 vs. $18 for factory crimp die. Makes life much easier.

[C. Latch]

I wouldn't worry about separating the crimp and seat operations for a taper-crimp cartridge. I do it for my roll-=crimped .45 Colt, but for the ACP, I think it's overkill. Stick with one die.


I'll just second to use the Lee Alox that comes with your sizer. Start by putting a glob the size of a small pea on about 50 bullets, in a warm plastic container, and swish them around until the lube is evenly coating everything,t hen dry them on wax paper in the warm sun or under a bright lamp indoors - but watch the smell indoors. I don't think the smell will hurt anything, but the fairer sex may not like their house stinking like alox.

[RobS]

I have a Lee single stage as well as a Lee Classic 4-Hole Turret. I didn't order the 4 die set based on recommendations from here and elsewhere. I saved $8 but could buy one for $20 if needed.

Since you are sizing with the Lee push through then a normal taper crimp die is all you need should you want to go with a seat then crimp die two operation for the Lee 4 hole turret. The Lee straight wall factory crimp die is a band-aid if you ask me for improper loading practices and often times (all calibers i've used except 45 Colt) swages down your boolit to a smaller diameter. My preference is to seat then crimp with all my loads but to each their own.

If a person is going to be seating and crimping in one operation then case length is important so one does not have issues with the brass shaving the lead on the longer cases as the boolit is being seated. For this reason alone I seat and then crimp in two stages especially for autos.

[MtGun44]

Always taper crimp as a separate operation for most reliable ammo
when loading semiauto cartridges where the boolit has no crimp groove.
Otherwise you will wind up with a small roll of lead forced up at the
front edge of the case because the boolit is moving after the crimp is
started. This bit of lead can cause jams and failure to fully seat in the
chamber.

Taper crimping as a separate operation should be always done for semiauto ammo.

You may also find that .452 is not as accurate as .454 or .455 diam in the 1917
revolvers due to very large throats (cylindrical portion of the cylinder ahead of
the actual chamber, leading to the forcing cone) which can let the smaller
boolits tilt and hit the forcing cone crooked.

[62chevy]

I have a Lee single stage as well as a Lee Classic 4-Hole Turret. I didn't order the 4 die set based on recommendations from here and elsewhere. I saved $8 but could buy one for $20 if needed.

I have a single and 4 hole Lee Classic too. I bought turrets for every caliber I load for and don't regret the cost at all. The beauty of having extra turrets is never having to adjust your dies again once setup properly.

[Doggonekid]

Now that you have spent $108 you can really start to see the savings add up. Several years from now you could look around and see thousands of dollars invested in casting & reloading equipment. (That does not include all the guns you bought to match your molds.). Then you will see just how much you saved.

Welcome aboard.

[bruce381]

Now that you have spent $108 you can really start to see the savings add up. Several years from now you could look around and see thousands of dollars invested in casting & reloading equipment. (That does not include all the guns you bought to match your molds.). Then you will see just how much you saved.

Welcome aboard.

yeah you are screwd now welcome to the new life style

[Wayne Smith]

Go down to your local thrift store and pick up a Stainless 1qt or 2qt kitchen pot. The first time I did this I got one with an aluminium spreader on the bottom. After melting the lead I picked up the pan and left the alumium spreader plate on the burner! I still use the pan, 15 years later. Right now it's full of pure - no spreader plate, the handle burned off ages ago, but it still works. You really need the depth to ladle cast well. From the thrift store you are looking at a couple of bucks, and if you find two get them both, you will eventually want different alloys mixed.

I never did the math but had my Dad's old Coleman double burner propane stove. I used that for years until the gas started leaking. I went out and bought the Coleman single burner because I have a 20lb gas bottle attached. I guess I could do this with an electric hotplate but guess that the Propane is probably cheaper.

[C. Latch]

Now that you have spent $108 you can really start to see the savings add up. Several years from now you could look around and see thousands of dollars invested in casting & reloading equipment. (That does not include all the guns you bought to match your molds.). Then you will see just how much you saved.

Welcome aboard.

LOL! Nailed it.

[Foto Joe]

You've already ordered but I would have suggested to just get the 4-die set to start out with. I use that boolit and a Lee turret 4-die with great success. I've never had an issue with the FCD swaging down the boolits but not everybody has the same results.

If you're going to tumble lube then the Lee 90348 200SWC works good. Should you switch to a Lyman lube sizer then the H&G style base can drive you a little buggy until you learn the tricks. I've pushed many thousands of those particular boolits out of 1911's but I have changed over to the Lee 200RF just 'cause it's easier to lube in a lube sizer, also the flat base tends to provide better accuracy over the H&G beveled base. In reality since you're probably only shooting 25 yards max it shouldn't be an issue.

[mdi]

Your list looks good. I too suggest separating the seating and crimping, at least until you get a good handle on fitting your reloads to the chamber of your gun. When you do this you'll see why reloaders don't need an FCD, especially for your M1917.

Welcome the the wonderful, very satisfying, often frustrating and confusing world of boolit casting...

[rmcelwee]

Today was a good day. First, I got some of my equipment in (the stuff you guys recommended). Second, my powder came in. Third, I went to the range and picked up 17 pounds of brass and 12 pounds of lead (I only shot 10 rounds since my store bought 223 bullets were 2nds and REALLY crappy). Fourth, I stopped by a local tire store and bought 49 pounds of WW for $5. I've watched several videos on how to process the range lead but haven't really checked into WW videos and info yet. I'm sure I will spend the next few hours on this board and on youtube...

[C. Latch]

I stopped by a local tire store and bought 49 pounds of WW for $5.

That *IS* a good day. :)

[rmcelwee]

That *IS* a good day. :)

Yep, I thought so too. All I knew was some local guys sell ingots for $1/pound. I had no idea how many pounds I got but I luckily had two milsurp ammo cans with me and filled them both up (took all the WW he had). If I can figure out what to do with them I will visit him again...

EDIT - I will sort them tomorrow and report on how much lead I actually got. I'm sure there is steel and zinc in there as well.

[Bigslug]

Now that you have spent $108 you can really start to see the savings add up. Several years from now you could look around and see thousands of dollars invested in casting & reloading equipment. (That does not include all the guns you bought to match your molds.). Then you will see just how much you saved.


Heck, I'm in the process of dropping what will probably end up being about $1,200 into a .32-20 Martini Cadet plus assorted dies and molds so I can shoot ammo at a lower per-shot cost than .22LR. As you can see, I'm ALLLLL about economy.[smilie=1:

[Harter66]

My Dad has a 1917 Colts that is at least 454,the S&W I just aquired is a loose 454 also.

Process the ww just as the berm lead, but separate the the lead,zinc and steel as well as the stick on from the clip on.

Darrs lube is about as cheap as you can make lube and it works well at least for me.

It does start innocent enough...... I've grown out of 2 20mm cans an 11 50s for all the loading gear into about that for casting. Several of those $20 moulds have sent upwards of 10 k boolits down range. At $10-25 /100 I think they have paid for themselves.

[rmcelwee]

EDIT - I will sort them tomorrow and report on how much lead I actually got. I'm sure there is steel and zinc in there as well.

I'm using a bathroom scale so the weights are a little off. I started with 49 pounds and got:

35# of COWW
10# of SOWW
5# of steel
3# of zinc

Yes, that adds up to 53# but it is close enough for me. So, $5 for 35# of the good stuff seems nice. I was not happy with how long it took me and my hand hurts from using a pair of cutters to do a real test. I know I will get better with processing but half way through I was ready to quit.

[blackthorn]

35# of COWW
10# of SOWW
5# of steel
3# of zinc

So, $5 for 35# of the good stuff seems nice.


Actually you got 45# of "good stuff"---There is nothing wrong with SOWW, just that they are a bit softer than COWW.

[runfiverun]

yep.
I mix my stick-ons in with the clip-ons at a rate of 3 co's to 1 so's by weight.
your mix is exactly why I do that.

jeez:
powder come in, stopped by and bought a bucket of ww's, range had brass and lead all in the same day.
that wasn't a good day, that was a great day.
you shoulda bought a LOTTO ticket since you was out, could have paid for it all and bought gas too.

[Harter66]

I'm using a bathroom scale so the weights are a little off. I started with 49 pounds and got:

35# of COWW
10# of SOWW
5# of steel
3# of zinc

Yes, that adds up to 53# but it is close enough for me. So, $5 for 35# of the good stuff seems nice. I was not happy with how long it took me and my hand hurts from using a pair of cutters to do a real test. I know I will get better with processing but half way through I was ready to quit.

Soon enough you'll be sorting range metal too,on top of figuring out how to get more faster.
You'll get a feel for what doesn't look and feel like lead ww and have to check 1/3 or less and be making up a bucket of zinc,clean steel,and #2 or 3 copper jackets to buy the next bucket of WW or mould.....

[Foto Joe]

The sorting is a pain I will agree but...As you get more familiar with what you're doing things will get easier. A lot of folks hand sort all their WW's, I personally quit sorting a year ago. Once you get some miles under your belt you'll be able to smelt and control your temperature so that things don't get too hot and melt zinc. At that point you just start with a known lead alloy in your pot at the right temp and start dumping in weights. As soon as the new weights hit the melt it cools of course then just start fluxing and skimming as soon as things melt again.

The upside to this method is that you no longer have to sort WW's. The downside of course is that if you don't pay attention you could easily wind up with at least a 25 pound door stop. So far all my doors open and close freely.:bigsmyl2:

[rmcelwee]

Yeah, I've already started looking for a thermometer. I found one for $20 on ebay and might get it. I wanted to try for as cheap as possible but you know that you cannot stay cheap for long. Building one of these right now:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83B1hAdZIQo

[Animal]

Hold on the the SOWW and Zinc. The SOWW (as long as they aren't the coated SOWW) are great for mixing with harder COWW if you want a softer bullet. Zinc, while there isn't much use for it now might become our future.
Be organized with you alloy. All my lead gets smelted, fluxed and poured into the same 3lb ingots. I label them as the alloy they are along with their weight. That makes it easy to blend them later in a precise ratio. Keep track of what blend is what by pouring them into different style ingots. after a session of bullet casting. This makes it easy to identify what you have made to prevent mistakes in the future.

[Foto Joe]

A thermometer for smelting isn't really necessary, you should have one for casting though and not a cheap one. During smelting a constant temperature really doesn't do much for you and a thermometer will be in your way in the smelting pot and more a hindrance than a help.

[rmcelwee]

I'm using a bathroom scale so the weights are a little off. I started with 49 pounds and got:

35# of COWW
10# of SOWW
5# of steel
3# of zinc


I smelted them today. Ended up with 30# of COWW and 9# of SOWW on a good scale. I soaked the SOWW in old gasoline over night to get rid of some sticky and paper. My ingot mold was adequate but not great. I think I made it too large (it took a few scoops to fill each section so they came out looking funky). I had, I think, two close calls with zinc WWs. I kept the heat way down and that let me find the offenders pretty easily.

132596

[pls1911]

Remember the good/fast/cheap triangle.... you can have any two points, but never all three.
However, for your stated purpose, a minimal cost hurry-up prep for quality time with Dad, you can come close.
Any of the .45 caliber plain base Lee molds, unsized, lubed with Liquid Alox will fill the bill, wether or not they're noted "TL" for tumble lube.
You're not casting for a bulls eye match, so perfection is not required and unsized "as cast" will work fine. In fact, bullets with slight wrinkle (no voids or rounded bases) will shoot ok.
The little extra smoke from Lee Liquid Alox (LLA) won't be an issue.
I've been in the game a long time and have burned plenty of ugly bullets set aside for plinking and they kill rocks and cans, and horse apples just fine. When I picked up a wrong box, I've also hunted with less the perfect bullets in a 30-30, and the dead deer or pigs never knew my error.

Have fun, learn together, and let us know your progress!

Beware though, that you are starting down a slippery and addicting slope to a new sport...casting and loading your own slugs...in the end it's going to cost you some time and money, but IMHO, it's well spent.
Cheers and welcome!

[Foto Joe]

I had, I think, two close calls with zinc WWs. I kept the heat way down and that let me find the offenders pretty easily.

As you go along you'll figure out why a lot of us don't bother to sort weights anymore. Zinc melts at between 780°-800°F which in actuality is pretty hot. The trick is to NOT let the weights sit in the pot and "simmer". As soon as the lead melts I dump a hand full of sawdust into the mix, stir it up and pull the clips out then dump more weights in which cools the pot.

I'm not too sure about soaking the SO's in gasoline though, try not to burn down the house.

[Animal]

I'm not too sure about soaking the SO's in gasoline though, try not to burn down the house.[/COLOR]

Agreed. **** floats. Don't increase the fire hazard associated with casting over a few floaters. You will find it is very easy to skim it all off.

[Foto Joe]

I understand the reasoning for wanting to get as much of the plastic and adhesive off prior to smelting, the stuff smells awful and I'm pretty sure it's not good for you. I've got long hair and after smelting SO's I need a good scrubbing to get the smell out of my hair not to mention clothes.

I guess I'll advise what has become my normal song and dance...Use what works for you, have fun and above all be careful and don't tempt Darwin to check your name off his list.

[rmcelwee]

A thermometer for smelting isn't really necessary, you should have one for casting though and not a cheap one. During smelting a constant temperature really doesn't do much for you and a thermometer will be in your way in the smelting pot and more a hindrance than a help.

What is the thermometer used for during casting? I must have missed this somewhere.

I'm about 6-7 days away from casting my boolits. Getting ready to have some fun...

[MBTcustom]

The thermometer is used to maintain an ideal temperature in the pot. When the lead starts to melt and has liquid as well as solid in there, it will hold temperature for a while, and only start climbing when all the metal is liquid again. You want to let it climb 100 degrees hotter than that transition temperature and try to hold it there more or less. its a powerful tool for casting, but honestly, I did just fine without one for years casting pistol bullets. You're lucky to have one so early on.

You mentioned that you plan to cast from a skillet? Not the best lead pot in my opinion. What you should do is go to the store and find any stainless steel container about 4-5 inches in diameter and about as deep. This makes an excellent lead pot, and I cast from one heated on a Coleman stove for about 15 years before I upgraded.
Other than that, it sounds like you're in for some fun! I have that same revolver and I love it. Very fun to shoot!

[Wayne Smith]

So, when is your dad visiting? Let us know how it goes, and how addicted you find yourself after this experience!

[Foto Joe]

When you start casting boolits keep in mind that you want to keep your temperature as low as possible and still turn out good boolits. Too many folks (myself included) when they start out get their temps way too high when it's not necessary. Too hot won't turn into a disaster but you run the risk of overheating the mold and winding up with lead smears on the sprue plate. It also causes more shrinkage to the final product and if you're using a high percentage of lead versus tin/antimony that can have adverse effects on the size of your boolits. Pistol boolits are pretty easy and forgiving, have fun with what you're doing and remember that when you mess up it's just a matter of tossing 'em back in the pot. Heck, some people have so much fun casting they throw 'em back just so they can cast 'em again.

As a tip to the new caster: DO NOT spray release compound on your molds and keep in mind that molds (even iron) need time to season and break in so your first casting session may not yield perfect boolits.

[rmcelwee]

So, when is your dad visiting? Let us know how it goes, and how addicted you find yourself after this experience!

Counting down the days (6 left). I will make a web page and post it here when the project is complete.

[rmcelwee]

Picked up 78.5# of COWW and 7# of SOWW (after they were melted down) for a $3.05 dozen doughnuts today. Spent 9.5 hours picking them up and melting them down. This hobby is fun because it is so time consuming.

[Wolfer]

I started out with a yard sale pot, a two cavity lee mold and a lee dipper on a Coleman stove. I still use this setup sometimes.
Started with lee liquid Alox, very easy, cheap and effective.
When I decided to make my own lube I used toilet bowl rings mixed with parrifin about 50/50. This will work very well at the velocities you will be shooting. Toilet bowl wax is way too soft by itself.

Over many years I've graduated to a bottom pour pot and who knows how many molds, sizing dies etc. I can't think of anything I've bought that I've regretted though.

Yes it is an addiction. I'm sure I could quit anytime I want. I just don't want!

[Bongo Boy]

Best wishes and good luck. Have patience, take your time, don't get frustrated if things don't work perfectly first time around. I would say your number one initial issue may likely be pouring into a mold that's too cold--at least I expect that will be the first surprise you may have--they have to be far hotter than one might expect to properly fill and produce nice bullets. Come back here with all the questions you might have. Keep the notion of getting a thermometer for the lead pot in mind if you decide to continue down the road...and a warm welcome to the club. You will have a blast, and you will be able to turn out excellent bullets for next to nothing.

[rmcelwee]

OK, the project has been completed. My webpage isn't "published" yet (no links to it from my site while I do some editing) but you can view it here:

http://www.lightweightmiata.com/guns/casting/

134095

134096


I did run into one problem that I cannot figure out. When seating the PC'd boolits everything was fine. When seating non-coated bullets (I would smear them with synthetic motor oil during resizing) the boolits would push all the way into the brass and stick in the press (lowering the ram would leave the boolit in the press where I would have to turn the adjusting knob in until it spit the boolit out). I have no idea why it did this. The boolits would have been a few .001" smaller but I cannot figure out why they acted like this. It makes me wonder if I would have been able to reload normally lubed (alox tumble lube) boolits. Any ideas?

[Lead Fred]

Mine cast rounds are about 9 cent a round

Using a 230gr RNPB Lyman mould, 7gr 800x, LP primers

I also have many presses, but do my 45acp with a $35 Lee classic Loader, its self contained, and cept a hammer has about all you need.

Lube:
1lb bees wax from Randy $3
1lb lard $2
8oz STP oil treatment $5
makes enough lube to do 1000s boolits
Two $2, 9 inch cake pans from goodwill

[Wayne Smith]

Motor oil may be a little bit too slippery, you may have something sticky on your boolit seating stem, and you may want to look at your crimp. Are you crimping in a separate step/die or as you seat?

[Harter66]

I have that sticking problem sometimes with new dies especially those that don't match the nose shape . Round nose on flat noses isn't bad generally. If your dies have a SWC seating stem and a RN stem it may be that. About half of my Lee dies have the stem upside down to have a flat stem. I have also had cast hang on the crimp step in the dies. Sometimes getting the die pores full of lube is a self fix some dies just have to be backed out and the stem turned way down so the bullet shoulder misses the crimp step. The last resort is to modify the dies. The 2nd option is probably a big contributor to seating and crimping separately.

[rmcelwee]

I crimp as I seat. Not exactly sure how to turn that off (not that I have a crimping die anyway, I'd have to get one). I guess I need to become a seating die expert and look into this.

[Mk42gunner]

Regarding the bare boolits pulling after seating; I would completely disassemble the seating die to clean it, then reassemble and try again. Of course this will mean you will have to readjust your seating depth and the crimp setting. Sometimes Lee dies need a bit of tlc to get everything working as it should.

I normally seat and crimp in one step for all of the handgun cartridges that I load, one less trip through the single stage press. In fact the only caliber that I have separate seating and crimping dies for is the .45, but that is because I have an old set of CH dies that have a speed seater die with no provision for crimping at all.

Sounds like you have been very lucky at finding cheap WW. Keep at it, you never really have enough lead, and it doesn't eat much while waiting to be used.

Robert

[rmcelwee]

OK, I just slugged the barrel of the M1917. It was 0.450". I was expecting that it was larger than the bullets we were making and that was causing my horrible groupings (maybe 10 feet at 100 yards - 6" groups at 10 yards or so). Not sure why the pistol shoots so far off???

[Harter66]

Bore or groove ? That is tiny or huge ,in 45 cal terms . The groove should be about 451-453 . 450 might not be so far out .... 6in h groups a 25 might be a bit big based on my limited experience with a Colts and a S&W . I just had a S&W out and easily held 6" groups a 25 just plinking .

OK we have a .450 groove . We need to know the dia of the throat in the cyl.
In a perfect world they would be 452 into a 451 bbl. And the chamber would accept a 453-4 boolit . As a worst case , you may have a wide throat allowing a little boolit tilt in the throat . Also possible (but unlikely in a gun of this age ) is thread choke at the bbl and frame which could have happened if the bbl was changed . The muzzle may be worn also .

With the worst mechanical stuff out of the way ,it may be that some part of the load isn't working well with the gun be it a primer ,powder ,brass or bullet.
I had 2 that wouldn't shoot with Winchester primers ,1 that refuses Rem brass and 1 that the load is inside a .3 gr powder window , I also had more than 1 that would not shoot Blue Dot but were completely content with 4756 and HS6 .

That's my over priced .02 .

[Possum Lickaa]

I'm super new too. You will get a lot of good advice here. These guys will help you out a lot. Try to keep your eyes open for the most level-headed, down-to-earth guys on this board, and listen to what they say.
-Maybe the most important thing I have learned so far is this... Perfect boolits are a long way out for guys like you and me, but very nice, very shootable boolits are right around the corner. Don't get too wrapped up in trying to achieve perfection right out of the gate. Get your stuff fired up, cast some boolits, load them, shoot them, and then do it all again. Have fun!!