New PID Temperature Controller

[Nimbus3000]

New member here and just thought that I would post a picture of the PID temperature controller that I just finished. Set up with an Auber SWA 2451 PID. Blue button is power, green button is timer reset, alarm above reset button, red button mutes alarm and yellow light is element on indicator. On the bottom is the power in, power out and thermocouple connection. Just getting started into bullet casting and this looked like a good source of info. 130475

[dikman]

Welcome, Nimbus and yes, this is THE place for info relating to boolit casting (note the correct spelling of boolit ;)).

I see you're a "flashing lights, bells and whistles" type of person. The only thing I'm not sure of is the timer reset - what do you use a timer for?

(It also helps if you put in your location under your name, as we tend to have members far and wide).

[Beagle333]

Nice looking PID! I do like bells and whistles. Mine just has lights, but I put as many as I could get to work on one. :D
Welcome to the forum! [smilie=s:

[RobS]

Looks like a nice build. Let us know how it works when you are up and pouring the silver stream.

[Nimbus3000]

I decided to go with the PID with the built in timer as a safety measure. The PID can be set up to bring the alloy up to temp and then hold it there for a predetermined time and at the end of that time the PID will turn off the power. I did put on a lot of bells and whistles on the controller box but it was a trial run for the larger control panel on the left in the picture (that one is for a home brewery that I am building). Should have gone with a slightly bigger box since the one that I used is too small to hold a relay so I am limited to 10 amps (limit of the switches).

[bhn22]

Allow me to add my "Welcome" to the site too! I'm in the analysis stage of a PID build since the thermostat went out in my Lyman pot. It's always helpful to see others component selections. Which PID did you choose? Where did you get it from, that sort of thing. I'm overanalyzing the thermocouple issue now, I've decided that I want interchangable thermocouples so I can use the PID with my sizers heater too. Plus I want one that will go over 400C/752F since I cast hollowpoints, and the extra heat can be helpful at times.

[Nimbus3000]

I went with the Auber SWA-2451 only because I wanted the internal timer. An Auber SYL-2352 ( http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3 ) would do the same thing for a couple of bucks less. I used the Auber WRNK-191 K type thermocouple ( http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=22 ) which has a maximum working temperature of 2000 degrees. If you plan on using a single PID to control two heaters you will most likely need to do a new autotune each time you switch. Autotune can take a fair amount of time. Not sure what type of heater is on your sizer but I would guess that a probe style thermocouple would not work. They do make a magnetic surface mount thermocouple ( http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=233 ). All of the switches are also from Auber. Auber may not be the cheapest out there but they have some of the best customer service that I have seen. They have answered every question that I have asked (usually within 1 day).

[Nimbus3000]

Just had another thought that I wanted to put out there. If you want to control two heaters I would look at purchasing one of the enclosures with two PID holes in it and running dual PID's. It would add to the cost since you would need two PID's and SSR's. Figure out the amperage draw from your heater(s) and slightly oversize the SSR's. My Lee 20 pound pot pulls slightly less than 7 amps. Auber also sells pre-drilled heat sinks for dual SSR's. And no I do not work for Auber I just like to give Kudos to companies that treat customers well. The other advantage of using the larger enclosure is the ability to install a relay so that more than 10 amps can be run from the controller. In the lower right of the picture is a Packard C230B 30 amp DPDT relay with 110v coil.

[Mike W1]

Put a TC on my lubsizer that was threaded 1/4x20 and tapped a hole in the heater near the unit. Works great, don't forget the thermal grease. Also polished the bottom of the unit and greased it which is useful to do. My PID's the 2352. And you'll want Aubers TCCON connector panel on your unit so you can plug in whichever rig you're heating up. I'd buy an extra male plug while you're at it. Auber's is about the only place I've seen those little panels. Get it on one order as their shipping is a mite on the high side but so is their service!

[dikman]

Ok, I guess a timer is probably useful in a brewery, but not really much use for a melter as you have to be there to cast and then when you've finished you turn it off (no point in leaving it on).

[Nimbus3000]

If I were going to build this again I would just use an SYL-2352 and skip all of the extra stuff. This was kind of a "kill two birds with one stone" in that I needed it to control my lead pot but needed the practice in wiring in alarms and switches before tackling a 240 volt dual 50 amp control panel. Thanks to all for the feedback.

[dikman]

Fair enough, your reasoning makes sense to me. As you say, for controlling a lead pot you really don't need anything more than a basic PID. The first one I built I was going to fit LEDs, alarms etc but then it dawned on me that I was making it unnecessarily complicated.

Good luck with the biggie.

[squid1230]

You cast boolits, and brew your own beer? I like this guy already!

[slim1836]

Did you mention where you live?
I'd like to help "taste test" your beer products. :bigsmyl2:

Slim

[Nimbus3000]

Actually just getting started with both. If you think shooting is expensive start to build a home brewery. Just finished my thermocouple bracket on the Lee Pot. Brackets are adjustable to fit any thermocouple. Should be high enough above the pot to stay cool (I hope). 3/4" aluminum flat stock bent to shape. Attached a few pictures if anyone is interested.130938130939130940

[EdS]

I'm also thinking of "keeping it simple" when I build my PID controller. Is there any reason to have an on/off switch separate from the PID "brain" itself? -Ed

[Nimbus3000]

Just finished assembling a timer box for my beer brewing and it just plugs in to power it on. One of the other reasons that I went with this type of box and PID was that I was thinking that I would also use it to control a powder coating oven (toaster oven). This model of PID will allow me to ramp up the temperature, hold the temp for a set time and then power off the oven for cool down. Depending on how the powder coating goes I may end up building a larger 240 v oven.

[Nimbus3000]

Just thought that I would post a follow up picture of my temp controller and melting pot attached to my casting bench. I still have to build the rolling base cabinet to set it on (the bare plywood is where I will attach the anchor clips).

[mtgrs737]

I don't see anything wrong with having a timer on the PID. I remember once casting in the evening then going inside to bed and finding out in the morning my lead pot had been running all night. Also, while casting I get called away for what I think is a short time only to find out it has been three hours and a timer to shut off the power to the pot in an hour or so would be a good thing. However maybe most people are as forgetful as me. :)