Lyman 4 cavity Handle problem

[mtgrs737]

Anyone else here have a problem with alinement of the mould blocks on a Lyman 4 cavity mould? I noticed that sometimes the hinge pin joint becomes very hard to open and now the blocks don't line up until the alinement pins in the blocks themselves force them to. I am thinking about grinding down a pair of Lee handles to use on the Lyman moulds.

Which way do you folks run the sprue plate, facing forward or toward the operator? I have tried both and I like forward a bit better but I would rather have a side tab to whack on like the 1 & 2 cavities have. Does anyone make a sprue plate that has the side tab?

I really like the way this mould casts, I have a 452374 and it casts great, if I can just get the handle thing worked out.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Hi, I have only one Lyman 4 cav and don't have a problem with it. I found that one of my H&G handles for a 4 cav fitted it with no prob. You can use a Lee set of handles and get it to work by carefully filing the tangs down to fit. You don't have to take much off to get the fit. The lee handles are well made and very reasonably priced. The only thing with the Lee handles and Lee acknowledges it in their set of instructions is that the wood grips usually loosen up and have to be reseated after some usage. Not a major thing. On the sprue plate/cutter I too prefer the action to take place at the rear of the mold, but I would imagine that some folks like it the other way. I don't really care for the Lyman gimmick of having the tab that you whack sticking up at an angle (all my other molds are flat) I made my own sprue plate out of 1/4 inch thick aluminum plate and it makes really good boolitz. It takes a little work...not really complicated. You get some plate and trace the position of the necessary holes and drill them according to the sizes on the Lyman plate. Of course access to a drill press makes thing easier. Then you have to countersink gently from the top of the plate, the holes where the lead will be poured into. Go slowly so that the holes are not enlarged further by the point of the countersink. When all that is done you then plan and cut the sprue cutter to (size) fit the top of the closed blocks and (plan) the size of the striking tab to be where you want it and then cut that too. Don't worry about any jagged edges or burrs as aluminum is pretty soft and you can shape things with a file. As an alternative there are a good number of very talented members of this forum who are excellent machinists who probably could do this in their sleep or blindfolded and one of them might help you out with it, better than I have, if not with the actual work then with better advice, I'm sure. Hope that this helps. Loup

[MT Gianni]

I normally cut sprues with a gloved hand when the mold is up to temp. I have tried with the sprue plat forward and don't get enough leverage and with it facing rearward I can't get at it well with my hardwood stick until it is hot. I usually leave it rearward and fight the stick, an old pin off a electrical crossarm until it is hot. Gianni