trouble with 10mm (Still)

[Arrow]

This is about the 3rd of 4th time i have posted about this same issue. I am still getting leading with my glock 20 and 29 with factory and kkm barrels in each. I have tried everything and have pretty much decided that the problem here is I need to shoot a fatter bullet but then it wont fit into my kkm chambers. So I decided i will start experimenting with my factory barrels for now with fatter bullets and hopefully i can come up with a load that doesn't lead like hell. Anyway, that is not what I'm asking about this time. I cant even start playing with a fatter bullet until i can at least get these things to fee. I am using a Mihec 10 mm 200 grain WFN Plain base mold. I love this bullet and this mold but have tried so many things and still cant get it to work. After a COL of about 1.255" I cant fully load my glock 20 mags. I have tried 1.240", 1.245", and 1.250" COL. 1.245" feeds like butter when I am cycling by hand. But for some reason when I go to shoot them in both the glock 20 and 29, the nose slams into the chamber opening (doesnt even make it into the chamber) at about 10-11 o'clock. This will happen multiple times in each magazine. There is nothing wrong with the guns. They both shoot jacketed bullets of all kinds 100% reliably and are tack drivers. I have tried with unique, tightgroup, hs-6, longshot, and 800x. Loads from mild to wild. alloys anywhere from 1/2 pure lead and 1/2 ww + 1% tin, 2:1 ww to pure, straight ww. I'm not to worried about the leading right now, i'm pretty sure i just need to find a way to fit a fatter bullet into my chambers. what I am concerned with is the feeding with this bullet. like i said i love this bullet and i am signed up for the 220 grain version of the group buy. What am i doing differently than everyone else shooting this bullet just fine out of their glocks?
Thanks

[WHITETAIL]

I will sound like a pest on this forum,
but did you try JPW swab down your barrel?
As anyone can tell you I am the Town Crier for that stuff.:bigsmyl2:

[mpmarty]

Had similar problems with G-20 and tried nearly everything I could think of. Finally got rid of the Glock and bought a Tanfoglio CZ clone in 10mm.. ?End of problems, it shoots everything and stays clean and accurate.

[softpoint]

I feed 2 10mm pistols. One is a Glock 20 with an EFK barrel, and the other is a custom 6 inch 1911. I shoot the RCBS 200 grain boolit. Slower powders help the leading issue. I use Longshot, AA9 in my pistols, and get no leading. I use 10 lbs. WW metal to 2 lbs Linotype, and water drop. Can't help with the feeding issue, though as the RCBS boolit feeds fine in both pistols.

[Calamity Jake]

Most of the problem is the WFN boolit, most auto pistols don't feed them very good.
Try a TC nose or round nose boolit.

[mwfoley]

I feel your pain.
I have a Glock 20 and two Glock 29s.
I had a hard time when I first started shooting cast in my guns with leading shooting commercial cast (Lasercast 180s).
I slugged the barrels (KKM) and found the sizes were correct.
Tried all kinds of powders and finally using WC820 (AA #9) the leading stopped in both the KKM and Glock factory barrels.
All other powders would lead.
I recently tested some Moly 180s and that coating seems to help and they do not lead with the WC820 powder.
My bores are .400 and the bullets are sized .401.

[6bg6ga]

If you have problems with a new round making it into the chamber I'm wondering if your holding it tight enough. My model 20 Glock when it was shot by someone not used to it will stovepipe a round. Leading.... too fast? over 1000fps? Might try slowing it down a tad. I did and not leading with any powder. Might also slug the barrel to make sure your bullets are large enough. Mine shoots anything.

Tanfoglio CZ clone in 10mm

Keep an eye on this one. They are prone to cracking the frames. I had one in 45acp with a comp and I really enjoyed shooting it but the thought of frame problems prompted me to sell it.

[Edward]

I get very little leading with my GL20 shooting out of a Lone Wolf ported barrel .It likes Power Pistol behind a Lee TL401 175gr
SWC 7.5/8gr P.P. target /hunting works great,no lead with 50/50 .

[mattw]

Could it be that since the rounds feed by hand that the load is just a little to lite? Now allowing the slide to fully go back to chamber the next round? Maybe try something slow, I love HS7 in my 10mm's Possible limp wristing? Glock is a fairly light gun and would not respond well to that.

[Arrow]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I am defiantly not limp waisting. The loads are defiantly hot enough. I have shot very light loads all the way up to nuclear. Like I said before 0 problem with jacketed rounds. Ctious is pushing this bullet extremely fast in his glock 20 without leading. I have talked to him quite a bit about this. Even with light loads, it is still leading. I can worry about the leadingn again later. Until then I need to find a way to get these things to even feed. Who else is shooting these mihec 10mm molds?
thanks

[popper]

Most of the problem is the WFN boolit, most auto pistols don't feed them very good.
Try a TC nose or round nose boolit.
The culprit!. Symptom is that only one COAL will hand cycle. The other solution is a mag fix and you probably don't want to go there. Might try your friend's mag & see if it works in yours.

[Arrow]

I have 6 mags for my glock 20 and all feed perfectly with jacketed. 1.245" wasn't the only one to feed by hand. They all fed smoothly but 1.245" was just smooth as butter. I don't understand why it would be jamming at 10-11 o'clock position. What would cause that?

[BLTsandwedge]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I am defiantly not limp waisting. The loads are defiantly hot enough. I have shot very light loads all the way up to nuclear. Like I said before 0 problem with jacketed rounds. Ctious is pushing this bullet extremely fast in his glock 20 without leading. I have talked to him quite a bit about this. Even with light loads, it is still leading. I can worry about the leadingn again later. Until then I need to find a way to get these things to even feed. Who else is shooting these mihec 10mm molds?
thanks

I do- works of art- well worth the wait. But, I'm shooting a S&W 610 with moderate to heavy loads. Couldn't be a more different platform from your Glocks but FWIW initially I had trouble with crimping when I was single-stage pressing. The trouble was the rounds came out fat- and a tighter crimp wouldn't help- just bulged. Re-sizing after crimping ruined accuracy (I shoot bullseye so I'm fussy about tiny groups). I had to go to individual seating and crimping dies- and even then spent a while getting the crimp just right. All that was during the 'great recession' when no one had parts or dies for anything, so my die set was a mixed bag of whatever. I finally found a 10MM/40 set for my Square Deal and was in business. But, even then I had to do a bunch of fussing with bullet diameter (I settled on .402"), alloy ( I settled on soft- i.e. 10-12 BhN- 1/40 range scrap/tin) and seating depth to get the crimp just right (and zero leading- JPW/beeswax/Lee MuleSnot brand allox 45/45/10).

That's with a revolver. I can only imagine things would get more difficult with an auto- but it doesn't sound like crimp is your issue. I threw this stuff out there just in case anything could be relevant. I do know that the commercial dies available are designed for jackets and have accepted the fact I'll need to fuss with them to work with lead- but it is do-able.

[country gent]

Sounds like an issue with magazines. may be releasing the loded round a little to soon under full recoil slide velocity functioning. You could try different magazines. Also make sure rounds are feeding properly and not just floating around. My glock in 40 seems to feed everything Ive put thru it. 10mm can be a little fussy die to higher pressures slide speed force and flx with added pressures velocity. Have you tried starting at mininum load for you powder and working up in small increments? May find a sweet spot that works that way. A nother trick that may help is trying diffrent recoil springs. SOme times a heavier spring slows things down and allows functioning. If other desighns work fine with cast loads your pistol may not like that bullet and a change may be nedded

[Arrow]

I see where your going with slide velocity. I do have a 22 lb recoil spring in. I have tested many different levels of "heat" for loads. I just don't see how it could be my mags when I have 6 of them and they all work perfectly with jacketed loads. Why would the bullets be diving in at 10-11 o'clock? Also, I understand that every gun is different but how is it there are so many people out there shooting this bullet in their glock 20 and 29 without a problem but I happen to have 2 glocks that neither are working in. I understand if it was like a hand fit 1911 and some angle might be slightly different than someone else's. But these are glocks where they all just snap together and you can't mess it up. Keep the ideas coming. I'm determined to get this to work after over a year of trying. Thanks guy.

[fredj338]

What is the meplat dia? I am shooting this bullet I had Tom do for me at Accurate. It feeds 100% in my stock G20sf. I run them 1150-1200fps, range scrap sweetened with a little lino.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/fredj338/10mm-wnfp_zpsb4b8d6d7.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/fredj338/media/10mm-wnfp_zpsb4b8d6d7.jpg.html)

[Arrow]

Meplate is .300"

[fredj338]

Meplate is .300"
I would have to check, but I think mine are 0.31"? It is the Accurate 40-195G. sized to 04015". I load to 1.255"-1.260" & they feed all the way down my Kalif retarded 10rd mags.

[popper]

Angle the round tried to enter the chamber. Hangs on that big meplat.

[Greg Skinner]

I'm shooting the Accurate 40-200J with a .31 meplat in 3 different Glocks (2 29's and a 20) with KKM barrels (1 6", 1 stock length G29 and a stock length G29 .40 conversion)using something close to a Lyman #2 alloy, sized to .401 in a Lee die. The G20 and one of the G29's have 22# recoil springs, the other G29 is stock.

My standard load is 7.8 Longshot oal 1.24" for about 1150 fps, but I also use AA9 for 1220 fps. They all function good. Once in a while I will have a jam on the last cartridge in the mag, but 9 out of 10 times they feed without a hitch. I powder coat, so leading has never been a problem with any of them. I did have to mess around with the crimp some on the KKM barrels. They cut a tight chamber and if you don't crimp enough they will fail to go into battery. I try to crimp just enough so that the loaded cartridge passes the drop test in the chamber - but not over crimp.
I don't know what your Mihec boolit looks like, but I can't imagine it's any fatter or flatter nosed than the 40-200J that I am shooting. If you are interested, I would be glad to send you a few of the boolits I am using just to see if that would make any difference. Just PM me an address.

[harley45]

I have 5 10MM guns and some will feed with a 402 dia bullet and some have to have a 401. The solution I finally had to goto so I could load one round that fed in all my guns was powder coating. I can use the lee 175 grainer and the OREO 200r. all sized at 401 and they feed and function in all my guns.

[Oreo]

I wish I had more to add here but I've had very little time to play with my own darn boolits. What I can say is that during the design phase testing and prototyping I found that my own G20 and G23s would feed any meplate up to almost a full wadcutter. The meplate was set at .300" because that was the maximum the magazine could handle without binding. A .310" meplate would work fine except I could only get ten rounds into a 13rd or 15rd magazine. This was improoved slightly by seating the boolits deeper but I wanted a boolit that would function 100% correctly at SAAMI COAL.

If it doesn't work at 1.250" then you could try shorter, say 1.200", or even 1.150". Just be careful redoing your load work-up. But that's usually only for magazine binding problems in pistols other then GLOCKs.

I wish I could be of more help. Feel free to post your question in the results thread. Surely the brain trust will get you squared away.

Good luck!

[Arrow]

Thanks for chiming in Oreo. I also was able to get these bullets to feed flawlessly while hand cycling the slide. Something is happening while shooting and I promise you it isn't limp writing. Any ideas?

[Oreo]

Well, try having someone else shoot your gun. See if they have the same problems.

Also, can you post real close-up macro shots of a few loaded rounds? Maybe someone will see something. Also, pics of your loaded mag(s), and maybe even the chamber area of your gun. Couldn't hurt.

[Harter66]

I might be inclined to suggest polishing but this is a problem that has followed the load ,having swapped bbls and multiple mags. I would lean toward your OAL . It is possible that you're getting a bump on the ramp but I think it is unlikely that it would be stable with 24 different combinations of mags and bbls. (6 mags 4 bbls) . Mechanicaly I would guess at something not getting the rim high enough or the nose low enough soon enough. How do your rims look ? I've read a story many times ,"if you can see the head stamps they aren't mine" . It is possible that there is some tiny little manufacturing bump/burr/ding/thingy that is causing this or is aggrevated buy 10x brass.

[softpoint]

I just tried some boolits that I have had for several years in my Glock 20, to see if they would feed. I had a friend give me some Beartooth 200 grain gas check boolits when he traded away his 10mm. These have a meplat of about .305 to .310 (hard to measure) and I loaded to an OAL of 1.235, and loaded atop 8 grains of Longshot, they worked perfectly in the KKM barrel.

[Jupiter7]

I have the Oreo designed 190(drops 197), I run them in my g29 at 1.255. Powder coated and sized at .401 shoot just fine in my gun, no leading in factory barrel.