First Attempt with New NOE and Accurate Aluminum Moulds

[don45]

This is my first attempt with two of my new aluminum molds, one NOE two cavity for 44 Mag (434421) and the other Accurate two cavity for my 458 Win (460350V / 460360J). Also my first time using my new PID.
The alloy uses is 95-2.5-2.5. I pre-heated the mould to 300 deg. and the lead to 720. Fluxed with sawdust. The one on the left is sized, other 4 as cast. Almost all had real trouble filling out, even when they became frosted. On the 44 I used the NOE thermometer probe and it reached 500 deg. At one point I turned the PID down to about 680. Still frosting without good fill.
I have been casting since BC and don't recall having this much difficulty. Other than a Brass 45 Auto mould from Accurate, all my moulds have been iron, from single cavity to four's. Also, almost all of my casting has been either pure COWW from 30 years ago+, or Lyman No 2 Alloy. BHN is 10-11 according to SAECO.
Prior to use, per NOE instructions I did the heat-cool cycle three times, cleaned blocks with carb cleaner followed by a good scrubbing with dawn in hot water.

Any thoughts/ suggestions about what I'm doing wrong?

129326129327

[Love Life]

Give it another couple of tries and cast fast and hot. You might still have some oil in the mould? I also prefer Iron and I am happier than a duck eating June bugs that Hardline Industries is around with their iron moulds.

[SwedeNelson]

don45

Did you try to lightly smoke the cavities with a BIC Lighter?
Very light - like a sun tan

Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

[rockrat]

Have a good steady stream of hot lead going in the mould? Looks like the mould might be a little dirty still and maybe a bit cold.

[popper]

a bit cold.

[cbrick]

Don, I think it's possible that you answered your own question. You stated that most of your molds and most of your experience is with iron molds, many people do a bit of head banging on the wall when first casting with aluminum. I think if you keep at it a few more times your bullets will start pouring much better. It's nothing but the learning curve of and difference in the way each casts. Once the iron mold is at a good casting temp it holds the heat much better/longer than does aluminum.

Cast fast, don't inspect bullets while casting, keep the mold full and the blocks closed as much as possible, pour a generous sprue puddle to get and keep the sprue plate hot. Both NOE and Accurate are excellent molds and once you get the learning curve over with all should be well.

Rick

[upnorthwis]

I had the same problem with my first non-Lee aluminum molds. Tried everything. Had tin up to 16:1, temp to 800 degrees, casting as fast as I could, sticking mold in pot to heat it up more. I finally put it in my mill and machined about 30% off of it. Works a lot better now. There's a reason that some engines have aluminum heads and cylinders. It sucks the heat right out.

I have to type faster.

[don45]

Swede,
I did try to smoke it with a Bic. Probably not enough. I knew it was too cold as my mould oven would only take it up to 300 or 305. I tried to heat the HP pins with a torch but decided to learn the HP tricks after I got it casting nice boolits so switched out to non-hp pins. I also did not know how to tighten the pin carrier. As it becomes snug and isntightened further it seems to pull over which would cause pin misalignment. Finally I just held the blocks firmly closed and then tightenednformly. Is this correct? I had the temp probe in place so I could see block temp. After I was casting at a good pace the temp stayed at about 520-530 with lead at 720. The bullits were frosting and I therefore thought the blocks were hot enough. Is there a suggested block temp for the 434421? I know from tons I've seen here that this is something that I'm doing, not the mould. I'm just very anxious to get both of these working for Spring bear and Fall deer hunts.

[SwedeNelson]

don45

Take a look at:
Casting with and Adjusting a RG mould
http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=199.0

Hope this helps
Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

[h8dirt]

Like you, today I cast with both an NOE and an Accurate mold. I also use an RCBS furnace with a PID controller. I check my mold temperatures using Markal theromelt crayons. My alloy is 92-2-6 -- so, we are close. You are using adequate tin for complete fill out. I cast bullets of this size at ~700F with my mold starting at at 400F. My opinion: you are close but your mold is a tad bit cold. Let your mold get up in the 400 - 450F range. Once you get up to "operating" temperature, you'll probably need to slow down with a 2-cavity mold. JMHO. I hope this helps.

[edctexas]

Is it cold where you are casting? I have to run the mold temps higher when the room is 35-40 degrees. I have the same 434421 mold and mine runs best about 475F measured from the probe. It took several casting sessions before I got nearly all good boolits. The NOE molds are excellent!

Ed C

[GLL]

NOE and Accurate Molds aluminum molds both produce exceptionally nice bullets !
Try a little more heat and casting for 3-4 minutes as quickly as possible ! Do not even look at the bullets
until the 4 minute mark. Once you get good fill-out adjust the cycle rate until the frosting level is what you desire.
You might also consider trying a ladle as an experiment.

Aluminum molds do like heat ! :)

Jerry

[geargnasher]

Trust Al on "tanning" the cavities lightly with a Bic.

Gear

[JeffinNZ]

Be careful with those NOE moulds. They have a nasty habit of multiplying........

[robg]

with ally molds i fill them the first time and let them stand a couple of minutes to warm up

[Screwbolts]

don45,

IMHO, If your Large sprue puddle isn't taking at least 3 to 5 seconds to solidify enough so you can simply slide the sprue plate off the top. You are not hot enough yet. Cast Fast and Hot. I have never tanned one of my NOE molds, boolitz just seem to jump from the molds when up to temp. I use a bottom pour 20lbs Lee, depending on alloy between 650 and 750 NOE thermometer, run fast.

[h8dirt]

More food for thought … NOE and Accurate molds use the large, iron, 6-cavity handles. With a relatively light aluminum mold, the handles are a significant heat sink. I improved my start-up speed (and quality) by making sure the handles (from the pivot to the tips) are up to temp' (400F) before I start casting. When in a hurry, I will heat my blocks on a hotplate while I heat the handles with a propane torch.