did my first cast's last night and got some questions

[usmc0811]

Hi everyone, I just got my 6 cavity mold from lee it is for the 175 grain TC bullets. Last night I did about 133 bullets the first 2 attempts they came out looking all wavy and stacked looking I guess you could say, I guessing I did not have my molds hot enough yet due to after that when they were all warmed up and all I was getting decent results, and melted the bad ones back down. This morning I was out in the shed for I guess 3 hours and made just over 700 bullets. The question I have is what is an acceptable amount of burs on the bullet? some of mine have some going up the sides of the bullet as if my die did not close all the way, it looks like a faint line, I was thinking that when I resize them it would just flatten out and not to worry too much about it unless it is real bad like it was on some of them, which were re melted back down. I also had some burs on the base of the bullets as if the lead was still too hot when I opened the mold and it smeared, again I don't think it would really be a problem since it is the base of the bullet or am I wrong, should I sand off the burs, re melt them, or forget about it and just load and shoot them. Does anyone have pictures of what is acceptable and not when it comes to burs on the bullets weather it be on top, base or sides. Thanks everyone and oh yeah I had a blast making them, couldn't stop at just 100 lol.

[sigep1764]

The burrs will come off when you size them, regardless of where they are on the bullet. Size, lube, shoot, smile. You're gonna like all this madness.

[jcren]

Couple tips from a fellow beginner. The mold lines can be from specs of lead on the mating surfaces of the mold, or on the Lee 6, if you squeeze the spruce plate handle it will open the mold slightly. One of those two is your likely culprit.

[country gent]

Look the mould faces over good under magnification helps, Look for lead spatters and burrs along edges of mould and cavities. also look at vent lines and around alighnment pins for burrs or raised areas. Clean mould good with dishsoap and a tooth brush. Alloys and heat can also cause this to happen. Alloy on the hot side flows more than cooler a mould on the warm side also allows metal to flow more. A tin rich alloy will flow more than pure lead alnog with lead antimony tin mixes. If you have a thermometer check temps of metal periodically to maintain temps, Pre heat mould if possible. Very lightly lube sprue plate and alighnment pins with sprue lube or 2 cycle oil and a q-tip. Just a very light coating is all thats needed. Casty a a sustainable consistent pace to maintain mould temps. light lines along parting line of mould will size out and not be an issue normally.

[runfiverun]

my theory is if it isn't a good boolit it goes back.
you have the capability and equipment to make good boolits why settle for sub standard?
your just beginning which means you have a new skill set to learn.
figure out what caused the bad boolits and use that knowledge to make better boolits.

finning on the base is generally caused by a mold half not being in alignment with the other one, or by the sprue plate being too tight or loose.

the finning down the side can be caused by the mold not being closed all the way, there is something on the mold face, or you are holding it open with the extra handle.

it can also be caused by too much pressure on the alloy forcing lead out into the vent lines.
this is something the LEE mold doesn't really have so it's one of the other issues.

[Yodogsandman]

Congratulations on your first cast boolits! You've already received some great advice above...so...shoot em up! Enjoy your new hobby!

[Wayne Smith]

Ditto to what is said above and one other possible cause. I ladle cast with my pot on a Coleman single burner and it is easy to get the lead too hot. When I do I get flashing as you did.

[varmint243]

As a pistol shooter I put next to nothing back into the pot
I separate them into three grades depending on how I like the looks of the base.
1.) nice looking sharp edges
2.) a little rounded but still ok
3.) **** that goes in the pot the next time around
I start testing with my shoot-able seconds
Usually those shoot just fine at the 40 yard line
Then I know my firsts will be fine
I usually shoot the seconds for 15yard speed plate stuff
I'm not trying to make little works of art
I cast because I cant purchase the type of bullets I want
As an active pistol shooter, a few thousand rounds a year gets used, no time to waste recasting bullets that will work just fine.

I get good advise from the CB benchrest guys at my club.
Rifle bullets are a whole different game with a whole different set of standards of quality IMO
I plan on taking that up after I am retired

[JohnH]

my theory is if it isn't a good boolit it goes back.
you have the capability and equipment to make good boolits why settle for sub standard?
your just beginning which means you have a new skill set to learn.
figure out what caused the bad boolits and use that knowledge to make better boolits.

finning on the base is generally caused by a mold half not being in alignment with the other one, or by the sprue plate being too tight or loose.

the finning down the side can be caused by the mold not being closed all the way, there is something on the mold face, or you are holding it open with the extra handle.

it can also be caused by too much pressure on the alloy forcing lead out into the vent lines.
this is something the LEE mold doesn't really have so it's one of the other issues.

^^^^^^^What he said^^^^^^^ I would add a couple things, 133 boolits with a Lee 6 banger is not enough to get the mold running right. Anytime I cast I figure it's going to be a 1 1/2 to 2 hour project minimum. Preheat your mold. If it ain't dropping good looking boolits in three or four casts, it aint hot enough. Read that last sentence again,,, and again. Now bear in mind, if the sprues are not cooling in less than 30 seconds (you'll see them change, a kind of flashing over as they go from a semit liquid state to solid) you are likely too hot, there is a balance here, but don't be afraid of getting some heat in the thing. Too hot is not near the problem that not hot enough is. A good run with a 6 banger should leave you sitting on circa 600 boolits or so and that's working on the slow side. Keep at it, casting is as much a skill as an art.

[Cherokee]

Good advice above...I'll just say practice will improve the quality and you'll get the hang of it. Load and shoot...enjoy.

[wv109323]

The base of the bullet is the most important factor in accuracy. The edge of the base needs to be fully filled out. The sprue cut needs to be as consistent as possible. Count after the last cavity is filled. You will find when to cut the sprue...like at five count. This may change a little as the mold gets hotter.

[usmc0811]

The burrs will come off when you size them, regardless of where they are on the bullet. Size, lube, shoot, smile. You're gonna like all this madness.
OHH yeah it's got me already

[usmc0811]

Look the mould faces over good under magnification helps, Look for lead spatters and burrs along edges of mould and cavities. also look at vent lines and around alighnment pins for burrs or raised areas. Clean mould good with dishsoap and a tooth brush. Alloys and heat can also cause this to happen. Alloy on the hot side flows more than cooler a mould on the warm side also allows metal to flow more. A tin rich alloy will flow more than pure lead alnog with lead antimony tin mixes. If you have a thermometer check temps of metal periodically to maintain temps, Pre heat mould if possible. Very lightly lube sprue plate and alighnment pins with sprue lube or 2 cycle oil and a q-tip. Just a very light coating is all thats needed. Casty a a sustainable consistent pace to maintain mould temps. light lines along parting line of mould will size out and not be an issue normally.
My temps are between 675-750 and sometimes getting to 800 then I try to back it down, I am in my shed which is cold as heck here in PA, plus I have a box fan, hot plate to keep my mold hot, light above the work bench these all make it hard to keep my furnace consistent due to them pulling all the power from it. I will have to try the 2 cycle oil and a q-tip idea, thanks.

[usmc0811]

[QUOTE=runfiverun;3103189]

finning on the base is generally caused by a mold half not being in alignment with the other one, or by the sprue plate being too tight or loose.
QUOTE]
I did try to tighten the sprue plate and that did seem to help but only for a little, I might have over tightened it.

[Wayne Smith]

Mentionining the sprue plate reminded me of checking the other end. I was casting with my Lyman 4 cavity mold the other day and kept getting bumps on the bottom of the boolit. I tightened the sprue plate and that didn't help. Then the sprue plate swung free and I found the stop screw in my melt! Both ends of the sprue plate need to be tight!

[Toymaker]

I cast yesterday also. Air temperature was 44° with 11 mph winds. I have to cast under an open carport or covered patio so everything was exposed to the elements. I like to cast my roundballs at 750° and bullets at 800°. The thermometer has been calibrated against a multi-tester thermocouple. First, as mentioned, look carefully for something on the faces of the mold that's keeping them from closing completely. It only takes a tiny piece of lead to do this. Second, temperature control is important. Being in a shed or garage is a big advantage. I had problems with crud (oatmeal) and the more I stirred, the more I got. The lead was too hot and the lead was oxidizing quickly due to the air temperature and wind. The few bullets I got were rainbow colored so I quit knowing I was fighting a loosing battle. There will be better days. It happens to all of us and is part of the learning process, even for experienced casters. Take notes, learn, enjoy and smile when your cast bullets cut the X out of the target.

[cajun shooter]

Being that it's colder than a well diggers butt in PA this time of year, I would put that new mold down. I know that it's new and you are ready to drive the heck out of it but you have to go back and remember some of your basic training. Start at the bottom and work your way up. You don't receive your weapon and go straight to the range to shoot a final test score. If you did we would have about a 100% wash out rate in todays times.
Go to the sticky section and find the book that was so kindly given to this forum by Glen Fryxell and Ron Applegate. The name is "FROM INGOT TO TARGET" and it's about 175 pages in length and is well worth downloading and printing out. I have my copy in a three ring binder and even though I've been casting since 1970, I used it for reference on many occasions. If you are serious about lead bullet casting then this book should be a mandatory reading.
Glen Fryxell has written many articles over the years for many magazines and Ron Applegate has designed many custom molds and used those bullets.
As far as your stacking goes that is a possible problem with both mold and lead temperature not being hot enough. Make sure you purchase yourself a Tru thermometer before too much time has passed.
Take Care David

[Retumbo]

I have a new Lee mold that i have been working with. I did my 4th casting session with it last night. I have seen the quality in bullets increase each session. Going to give the mold a good scrub tonight and start again tomorrow.

[Foto Joe]

Lee molds do "break in". The wrinkles or "stacking" should resolve themselves as the mold seasons. The finning on the other hand as has been stated previously could very easily have to do with contaminated mold block faces. I'm also noticing that your casting temperature fluctuates greatly. A Lee six cav aluminum mold gets hot quickly and gets too hot shortly there after. Keep an eye on your temps and feel free to use the sprues to bring your temp back quickly. Every mold has its "pet" temperature but getting the alloy up to 800° with an aluminum mold is too hot in my opinion. I try to run between 700°-725° with my six cav molds. Once you get your temps consistent I think you'll find that your boolits also get a lot more consistent.

When you break the sprues you want to feel a little bit of pressure, if the sprue plate simply moves without much effort you're not waiting long enough and/or your mold is getting too hot. This will quickly lead to contamination/smearing on the sprue plate and damage to the tops of the mold blocks will follow soon. There's a few different methods to control mold temp ranging from placing a wet towel (away from the pot) to rest the mold on while waiting for the sprues to harden to running multiple molds or just waiting a set time before breaking the sprues. Personally I don't like the wet towel trick on Lee molds as it tends to lead to corrosion on the mold/handle screws making them tough to remove.

[fredj338]

Wrinkled noses are less of an issue for accuracy vs deformations in the bases. Slow down on opening the spru, makes sure you are holding the mold handles together firmly. I try to run the pot at the lowest temp that allows good mold fill out. It's not that your alloy is too hot but the mold. Use a fan between pours or I like to use two molds to keep the molds from over heating.