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View Full Version : What do you use for a lubricant



Bad Water Bill
01-21-2015, 09:15 PM
Imperial is my CURRENT favorite but I have tried many others including S T P way back when.

GRUMPA
01-21-2015, 09:26 PM
A 50/50 mix of Anhydrous Lanolin and Vaseline

lancem
01-21-2015, 09:57 PM
Somebody else here mentioned they used mink oil, I had a can and tried it and I like it. A dab on my fingers rolled into my palm and I'm good for 5-6 06 cases going into a small base sizer before I need to touch my fingers to the can again. Much better than the old lyman (STP) lube on a pad.

DCM
01-21-2015, 10:00 PM
Loaded question there Bill. :kidding:

Imperial when the going gets tough Imperial.

GhostHawk
01-21-2015, 10:03 PM
Everything from WD-40 to Ben's Red. Frankly the Ben's Red worked better. So I broke down and bought a tin of imperial.

Wow, good stuff!

A little dab'l do ya.

ballistim
01-21-2015, 10:08 PM
I've been using Imperial for about 30 years, works great so never changed, had a friend that used mink oil, seemed to work ok, also read Steve Herrett & Bob Milek used VO5 shampoo when forming the Herrett cases.

JWFilips
01-21-2015, 10:10 PM
Straight Anhydrous Lanolin, on my palms....smells like a darn wet sheep but my hands are smooth as a babies behind!
No stuck cases ( unless I do something stupid)

jmort
01-21-2015, 10:13 PM
Hornady Unique

Beagle333
01-21-2015, 10:17 PM
Mink oil. Softens the fingers too. 8-)

country gent
01-21-2015, 10:17 PM
I use the Imperial and have for many years, I have tried some others and went back to it. Only issue is around here finding it is a problem in LGS, have to order it or get it while at Camp Perry during comercial row is open. But a tin of it lasts for ever. I have used anahydrous lanolin also as its here for Black powder lube use also. I really disliked the old lube pads with stp type lubes it got everywhere. LOL.

MaLar
01-21-2015, 10:26 PM
Lee case lube mixed with alcohol in a spritzer bottle. Little bit of lube lots of alcohol. Goes a long way.

dtknowles
01-21-2015, 10:29 PM
I guess nobody likes it but I use generic STP cut with a little kerosene on my RCBS lube pad. I mostly neck size or use carbide dies so my lube pad does not get a lot of use once my cases are formed. I make cases for 25 Krag Ackley Imp. 6mm PPC and 30 BR Long. The lube pad works, I have not stuck a case since 1975 when I tried to FL size a 30-30 that I forgot to lube. You can use the motor oil additive without thinning if you want but it is goopier that way but you don't have to work hard to scrounge the kerosene and you can get it today if your gun shop doesn't have any case lube.

Tim

dragon813gt
01-21-2015, 10:48 PM
Mink Oil, it has lanolin in it. I tried liquid lanolin mixed w/ 99% alcohol for necking 308 up to 358. Stuck a case first try. Only time I've ever stuck one and haven't tried that concoction again.

454PB
01-21-2015, 10:52 PM
I've used mink oil boot dressing for years, works as well as Imperial Wax and can be bought at any sporting goods store or shoe store.

salpal48
01-21-2015, 11:02 PM
I use " Panef Lube a stick. Get it @ my local hardware store White silicone stick I posted a thread In equipment . Even posted a picture
. also cheap $6.00 a tube lasts for years
try it you will like it

kenyerian
01-21-2015, 11:06 PM
imperial or mink oil. Both last a long time.

joesig
01-22-2015, 01:20 AM
50/50 lanolin and castor oil.

No_1
01-22-2015, 05:35 AM
Imperial is my favorite.

hornady308
01-22-2015, 09:25 AM
When forming cases, I generally use Imperial. It is the best I've ever used. Alberto V05 also works because it contains lanolin, and a tube will last for years. Smells good, too.

imashooter2
01-22-2015, 09:30 AM
RCBS case lube cut 1:16 with isopropyl alcohol makes a great spray lube for the stuff going across the Dillon. I mostly use Imperial for single stage bottle necks, but I have used anhydrous lanolin.

Gar
01-22-2015, 09:35 AM
Another vote for Imperial.
I also use a 50/50 mix lanolin/HEAT (99% alcohol) depending on the sizing operation, but Imperial is my "go to" lube.

bullet maker 57
01-22-2015, 09:42 AM
One more vote for Imperial.

slughammer
01-22-2015, 10:09 AM
Case Lube
12oz of 91% isopropyl
1 bottle of RCBS case lube
8 marbles

I put this in a sprayer bottle with the marbles and agitate it every time I use it.(though I'm not sure it needs that). I use either quart or gallon ziploc bags. I spray 2 or 3 squirts in the bag and then add the brass, work it around and dump them into a cookie tin for the small batches or onto a cookie tray for the big batches. (The bag is pressed flat and reused until dirty, then replaced with a new one.) The alcohol flashes off quickly. The lube is distributed evenly. My hands stay clean enough to load a round from start to finish. I've loaded well over 5000 rounds and I probably have 3-4 oz left. Clean off by wiping with a rag or large batches I vibratory tumble with fresh corn cob media.

Some how I've posted this in the new case forming subforum. This lube does work for forming 223 down to 222 for me. Anything more complex than that and I'll use my tin of Imperial

EDG
01-22-2015, 01:48 PM
For ordinary forming and sizing I use Imperial.

For really heavy duty or sizing nickle plated rifle brass I use Mystic JT6 synthetic blend chassis lube.
It is about $5 for a 14 oz tube. This stuff is so slippery, when you pull the handle on your press to break it over center and pull the case out of the die, the case will often back itself out/eject itself from the die. Not recommended for normal use because it is a little bit messy and being water proof - hard to get off of your brass.

patrick_sween
01-22-2015, 01:53 PM
Still using the same bottle of RCBS lube that came with my Rock Chucker kit 22 years ago! A little goes a long way and I've never needed anything better even for some advance case forming jobs.

Patrick

alamogunr
01-22-2015, 02:18 PM
Imperial for FL sizing rifle. RCBS on every 10th straight wall handgun case. I actually only twist the mouth of the case on the pad.

Charley
01-23-2015, 10:14 AM
For everyday use, Ideal lanolin based wire pulling lube. Dirt cheap, and you don't have to mix anything up as when making your own lube. A quart costs under $10. For case forming , and heavy duty work, Imperial.

1Shirt
01-23-2015, 11:17 AM
For cases that have been fired w/cast and not to high pressure, I use a spray made of 25 percent olive oil, 75 percent Iso Alch. For cases that are fired high pressure, use Imperial. Same for case forming. Like most started with STP on a pad(them days are gone for ever I hope), mink oil works good, and know of one guy way back who claimed he used Crisco. Never verified however!
1Shirt!

dragonrider
01-23-2015, 06:12 PM
Dillon spray lube or Hornady One Shot.

Smoke4320
01-23-2015, 06:16 PM
Imperial works every time

smokeywolf
01-23-2015, 08:18 PM
Imperial works great. Haven't found the need nor the time to experiment.

HGS
01-23-2015, 10:18 PM
Imperial for common brass lubing, Lanolin, castor oil & sandalwood oil for bullet swaging and cfl-56 case forming lube for radical re-forming made by Rooster. Use a lot RCE's Jacket drawing lube when making Large copper strip jackets. My lube cabinet looks like my wifes beauty products shelf.

HGS

jaysouth
01-25-2015, 12:09 AM
For heavy duty resizing (LC brass fired in a machine gun) I use Hornady sizing wax. For all others, I use Dillon or Hornady spray. The water base Lee in the plastic tube also works well for full length resizing. It is also easier to wash off your brass that Hornady or Imperial wax.

Hankster1962
01-25-2015, 06:02 AM
Years ago someone led me to use Summer chain saw bar oil. I smelled and looked exactly like the factory stuff I was using at the time. I could not believe it. Been using it ever since. Works beautifully, and a one liter bottle is only a few bucks.

No_1
01-26-2015, 06:50 PM
I was one of the ones who tried to make their own case lube after I tired of miserable experiences related to the use of cheap spray lubes. My Dad kept telling me to "try Imperial" but I never got round-tuit until the day he handing me a can. The feeling I equate to trying it for the first time was the same as first session with my Star sizer - Why did I wait so long!

TheDoctor
01-26-2015, 07:00 PM
Sounds like I need to get some imperial! Normally use RCBS case lube II. Never thought about mixing THAT with alcohol. Ideal wirepulling lube, well, it might bring back bad memories of when I did commercial electric. We called it duckbutter.

zuke
01-27-2015, 09:52 PM
LEE lube, sometime's with the alcohol mix,sometime's straight

justingrosche
01-28-2015, 01:30 AM
Another Imperial user, but I've tried all sorts of concoctions from wire pulling lube, to an old jug of Vaseline when it had high amounts of lanolin in it. About the only thing I haven't tried is Astroglide��

tward
01-28-2015, 02:05 PM
I like Imperial but have had great results with Lee lube thinned with water and applied with my fingers. Both lubes work well but Lee cleans up easier. I've used both to form 256 Win cases in a full length sizing die, just went slow in stages. Tim

DLCTEX
01-29-2015, 04:50 PM
I have used many different things, but now use lanolin on my palms and rotate 5 or 6 cases between my hands at a time. I drop lubed cases in a zip loc bag until all are lubed, Fastest efficient method I have used. For case forming, Imperial.

higgins
01-30-2015, 06:23 PM
For normal FL sizing, I'm using the last of a tube of Lyman Size ezy (?) I got when I started reloading in the late 60s! It has always worked well. It has the look of silicone grease, but I don't know what the formulation is. If anyone does I'd like to know.

EDG
01-30-2015, 07:08 PM
As I remember that Lyman lube was a bit stinky. It seemed to me to be a heavier mineral oil.
I have used RCBS from way back then, Pacific and Bair that were all similar. The Lyman and RCBS were both heavier than the Pacific and Bair.

donald duck
02-02-2015, 02:20 PM
I use Shaler Rislone. Mix one bottle at each oil change and then collect the drippings in a small bottle. Use a Q tip to lube inside necks and wipe a little on outside necks and case body. Just changed .357 Mag. brass into .256 win Mag. Use a .30 mauser sizing die and then the .256 mag sizing die. lube with fingers after each partiual size. Did 20 new cases and did not lose any. Lube, lube, lube, and no stuck cases. dd

funnyjim014
02-04-2015, 10:57 PM
Started using the rcbs 2 that came with my press. Hard sizing, slow and I threw it out when I stuck an 06 in the sizer. Bought Hornady unique paste. Its fast and works fantastic. Just my .02$

slim1836
02-05-2015, 07:58 PM
This is what I use:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0117UuXiSS4

Slim

Artful
02-06-2015, 06:03 PM
Another vote for Imperial. First can lasted about 15 years.

Reverend Al
02-06-2015, 07:52 PM
"KY" has always been a favorite when it comes to lube ... oh ... wait a minute ... what were we talking about here?

:oops:

Reverend Al
02-06-2015, 07:53 PM
Imperial ... IMPERIAL ... I meant to say IMPERIAL sizing wax ...

:rolleyes:

altheating
02-06-2015, 10:47 PM
You guys have been cooped up way to long this winter !

typz2slo
02-07-2015, 06:37 PM
Question about lanolin and alcohol. Do you have to tumble off the lanolin before loading or is it ok if a little comes in contact with powder?

TheDoctor
02-24-2015, 07:10 PM
Lee case lube mixed with alcohol in a spritzer bottle. Little bit of lube lots of alcohol. Goes a long way.

Had a tube of lee lube. Bought some iso heet, which is 99% isopropyl. Mixed it in a spray bottle. Timed a batch of brass just to see how it went. Several handfuls of brass in a baggie, half dozen squirts of the cocktail, shake it around good, dump it out to dry, dried almost instantly, even in 35 degree temp. Rock chucker press, fl sized the 223 brass that was in the bag, 168 pieces, in 10:18. If someone had told me that sizing could be that effortless and fast, I would have been tempted to throw the flag. Might try lanolin when I can get some, but the Lee with Heet WORKS!

smokeywolf
02-24-2015, 07:46 PM
Have used straight anhydrous lanolin, but due to the number of good reports on Imperial I bought a tin about 4 years ago and found that I prefer it over the lanolin.

smokeywolf

MBTcustom
02-24-2015, 10:13 PM
I ran out of case lube several years ago (OK, maybe it was ten) I was in a bind and needed to get some brass prepped pronto and I was willing to use whatever I had on hand. I did one of my very first google searches and found a thread similar to this one on some forum where a guy gave a list of possible alternatives. One of those was mink oil paste. I had that on hand for water proofing my boots so I gave it a try. Over the years it has proven to be better than lanolin and I still use it.
The first tub was made by Fiebings and I threw it away when it was half full because it was so nasty from me rubbing the tips of my fingers in it. That was about three years ago, and I replaced it with Kiwi brand mink oil, and its still going strong.

jonas302
02-24-2015, 11:15 PM
I use mink oil also a little rub on my fingertips every few cases and just lube the case in my finger on the way to the press I also have unique which seems to be a very similar product either can seems like it will last a long time its easy on the fingers not smelly and wipes right off the cases when done

kutil
02-28-2015, 08:20 AM
Olive oil

alamogunr
02-28-2015, 08:39 AM
I use Imperial for all rifle cases. None of my rifle brass is particularly difficult to size. The Imperial makes it even less so. Straight pistol cases sized in steel dies get RCBS case lube on a pad. This is infrequent since I only have a few old die sets w/steel size dies. I use the RCBS on approx every 10th case when using carbide sizers.

Elkins45
03-01-2015, 11:43 AM
For case forming my first choice is the Lee wax lube applied individually with fingers.

For plain old batch sizing of stuff like 357 Sig or 300 blackout in steel dies my current fave is the same Lee lube cut with 91% isopropanol in a sprayer bottle. I have also used the lanolin sprays and still have a big bottle, but I like the wax lubes better because they don't leave the cases so gooey. I'm also experimenting with Ideal wire pulling lube diluted with alcohol in a spray bottle and the initial result has been just as good as the Lee lube.

For lubing the necks of bottleneck cases I put some of the RCBS liquid case lube on a patch and use a slotted cleaning jag to just shove it in and out of the case. I only have to put a drop on the patch every 40-50 cases because it only takes the tiniest film to lube case necks..

Ballistics in Scotland
03-01-2015, 04:02 PM
Lanolin and castor oil are used for bullet swaging because of the high flash point under pressure, and there can't be anything wrong with their lubricating properties if they work in that more demanding service. Nothing with a name like Imperial can be bad, surely, but I have never used it. I will probably take forever and a half to finish a large bottle of STP oil treatment which I bought many years ago. at that time there was less variety, but I believe most makers' sizing lubes were STP oil treatment.

It works well, used neat on a moistened rather than saturated felt stamp pad. I have never lost a case that I could honestly say wasn't any fault of my own. You would hardly use it on your palms, as it is disgustingly sticky stuff, not easily washed off. But it works better, I think, than anyone has ever proven for STP on an automobile engine.

John Boy
03-01-2015, 06:09 PM
Bag Balm ... http://www.bagbalm.com/

donald duck
06-15-2015, 05:02 PM
I use Shaler Rislone. It is an automotive oil additive. Old motors never have a stuck lifter. Use it in each oil change. Drain bottle over small plastic bottle, lube inside necks with Q tip and rub outside of cases with fingers. Never a stuck case. clean cases afterward in corn cob media. Just sized 100 starline .357 Mag Brass to .256 Win Mag brass. Two steps, first .30 Mauser die and then in .256. Lost maybe one case. Works for me.

EDG
06-15-2015, 11:32 PM
You never know what most guys are sizing with their recommendations.
You can lube straight case with almost anything and make it work.

Forming cases may require multiple dies and a good lube to get there.

Bad Water Bill
06-16-2015, 02:41 AM
Forming cases may require multiple dies and a good lube to get there.

Imperial is my go to for everything.

Taking a 5.56 LC brass to 20 VT or down to 17 fireball sure takes patience and a great lube.

Great point sir.

Bullwolf
06-16-2015, 04:04 AM
Another Bag Balm user here.

http://www.bagbalm.com/

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FdukGXInL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Bag Balm is a Hydroxy Quinoline Sulfate 0.3% (an antiseptic), in a Petrolatum Lanolin base.





- Bullwolf

Photog
06-20-2015, 09:21 PM
Hornady Unique for rifle brass. works fine for reforming 300 aac from 223.
Lee lube for tumble lubing pistol brass that is push through sized. (push .40 brass through a FDC or cut off sizing die, depending on if I'm loading cast boolits or FMJs) it dries best and doesn't attract dirt. I DON'T wash it off, just lube, size and then load.

Boolseye
06-24-2015, 02:01 PM
I just use rcbs with the lube pad. Does the job for me.

David2011
06-24-2015, 05:43 PM
Loaded question there Bill. :kidding:

Imperial when the going gets tough Imperial.

I used to think that as well and I'm a big fan of Imperial. A friend brought his .500 S&W brass and dies to me to diagnose a problem. I sized a few, with substantial effort, using Imperial. I tried some pure lanolin straight from the bottle rubbed on like the Imperial. It was unbelievable how much less effort was required to size the big cases with lanolin. YMMV.

David

David2011
06-24-2015, 05:45 PM
Mink Oil, it has lanolin in it. I tried liquid lanolin mixed w/ 99% alcohol for necking 308 up to 358. Stuck a case first try. Only time I've ever stuck one and haven't tried that concoction again.

If you don't let the alcohol completely evaporate it will reliably give you stuck cases. Never have had one stick with alcohol and lanolin unless I got impatient.

Ed in North Texas
06-28-2015, 11:28 AM
Another Bag Balm user here.

http://www.bagbalm.com/

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41FdukGXInL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Bag Balm is a Hydroxy Quinoline Sulfate 0.3% (an antiseptic), in a Petrolatum Lanolin base.





- Bullwolf

Never tried Bag Balm for sizing, but I have a couple of bandaids on me right now with Bag Balm. Been using it/had it used on me better than 60 years that I can remember (and more I can't remember).

For sizing masses of cases I use Frankfort or Hornady One Shot sprays. Line them up in a loading block 50 at a time, even 7.62 haven't been a problem for the Lee Classic Cast (I must be begging for my first stuck case since 1967 boasting about that). Imperial for everything else. I'd give Mink Oil a shot (have it for my boots), but I need to use the Imperial I just started, which might be passed on to one of the sons or grandsons not quite finished.

WRideout
07-04-2015, 06:40 AM
For case forming my first choice is the Lee wax lube applied individually with fingers.

For plain old batch sizing of stuff like 357 Sig or 300 blackout in steel dies my current fave is the same Lee lube cut with 91% isopropanol in a sprayer bottle. I have also used the lanolin sprays and still have a big bottle, but I like the wax lubes better because they don't leave the cases so gooey. I'm also experimenting with Ideal wire pulling lube diluted with alcohol in a spray bottle and the initial result has been just as good as the Lee lube.

For lubing the necks of bottleneck cases I put some of the RCBS liquid case lube on a patch and use a slotted cleaning jag to just shove it in and out of the case. I only have to put a drop on the patch every 40-50 cases because it only takes the tiniest film to lube case necks..

I have tried motor mica on the inside of case necks, but found it to be messy, and not even all that helpful. This looks like a good idea, almost a forehead slapper (why didn't I think of that?).

Wayne

303carbine
07-05-2015, 02:24 AM
I started using vaseline jelly for case lube about 15 years ago, it works great and I have never needed to try anything else because it worked so well.
A small jar lasts forever, a little dab on thumb and fore finger is all it takes, it also cleans cases nicely when you wipe the stuff off.
To make sure I have it all off, I take a rag with a bit of alcohol to remove the rest of the lube residue before chambering and shooting.

Ohio3Wheels
07-06-2015, 03:29 PM
Use Imperial for everything unless it's going on the Dillon then I use Dillon spray. I switched to Imperial when forming 6.5-06 cases and the old RCBS stuff was giving me fits. Haven't looked back and form 40-65 cases from 45-70 was a cinch.

Curt

rfd
07-09-2015, 08:43 AM
though i've tried a bunch over the years, haven't found a case lube better than good ol' imperial wax.

rfd
07-09-2015, 08:44 AM
Use Imperial for everything unless it's going on the Dillon then I use Dillon spray. I switched to Imperial when forming 6.5-06 cases and the old RCBS stuff was giving me fits. Haven't looked back and form 40-65 cases from 45-70 was a cinch.

Curt

curt, what die(s) you using to form 40-65 from 45-70? how's the results?

kjorgy
07-28-2015, 07:57 AM
Hornady "one-shot" spray for resizing. Lasts a long time

jrap
07-28-2015, 02:08 PM
I like Hornady one shot for normal reloading and imperial sizing die wax for forming cases

StratsMan
07-28-2015, 08:58 PM
OK, I'll chime in but I'm going WAY off the norm...

I've used the commercial stuff, made some of my own, etc etc... but then I found Royal Case and Die Lube from sharpshootr.com (http://www.sharpshootr.com/royal-case-die-lube/) and I am hooked... This is the slipperiest, most reliable stuff I've ever used...

I like to clean my bottleneck brass after I form it, so I give it about 5 minutes in hot water and a cheap degreaser I buy from a Box Store, then rinse a couple times and tumble dry for an hour... My brass is beautiful and I never worry about a stuck case...

And, as always, a little dab'l do ya....

Black Beard
07-29-2015, 06:33 AM
Not sure if it is the best lube but I am using 50-50 mix of castor oil and red turkey oil (AKA sulphonated castor oil). I made up the mixture based on the idea that the castor oil provides the lubricant while the red turkey oil is a detergent/dispersant that allows me to wash it off the cases with water.

The mixture does separate back to its raw ingredients so has to be made up just before you use it. It also semes to form a gum/wax over time in air but this still works as a lubricant.

Wayne Smith
07-29-2015, 08:51 AM
Ran out of my RCBS STP and put a can of Bag Balm on the next Vermont Country Store order. Using it now to up-neck 8x57 to 9.3x57.

I have, for years, used graphite in a medicine bottle of shot to lube the inside of necks. Found out it doesn't work at all with new brass. Now using a q-tip and Bag Balm.

dryflash3
07-29-2015, 01:39 PM
I use a homemade spray lube that's the equal to Dillon's spray lube.

16:1 liquid lanolin and 99% alcohol.

Case forming, I get out the Imperial.

DocSavage
08-02-2015, 10:58 PM
Lanolin/alcohol mixture for sizing and case forming. Don't lube the inside of case necks as I replaced the steel expanders with carbide. 223,300 Blk,7.62x39 and 308 just glide with the carbide expander.

mart
08-12-2015, 01:39 AM
Another vote for Hornady Unique. I've used it for several years. Just last month my best friend was setting up to load 50 BMG and he was having terrible trouble resizing cases. He had tried RCBS case lube and cases were wanting to stick. I brought over my Unique and the difference was night and day. I knew it was good but I didn't realize it was that much better. He even got some Imperial to try and says he likes the Hornady Unique better.

georgerkahn
08-12-2015, 07:10 AM
I use Imperial; nothing else!
george

gwpercle
08-12-2015, 02:24 PM
Bag Balm! Pretty green tin, the cows like it and it smells good. Good for your hands and chapped lips.

Castloader
08-17-2015, 11:55 AM
I've been using Kiwi Mink Oil, the only thing I don't like is that it's hard to completely remove. I wet media clean my brass and have to use HOT water, dishwasher detergent and Lemmi-shine to clean it off and it still takes 3 water changes before they're squeaky-clean. Before somebody says it, yes I know that they'll shoot just as good without looking factory new, but if I wasn't a fussy, particular, detail-oriented, maybe a little anal-retentive person, I probably wouldn't be casting and reloading, I'd just go buy the commercial stuff and shoot a couple times a year like the rest of the country (present company excluded). I'm off my soapbox now [emoji57]

dragon813gt
08-17-2015, 12:21 PM
Mink oil comes completely off w/ a one hour trip in a vibratory tumbler full of walnut media.

BAGTIC
08-19-2015, 08:06 PM
In recent years I have been using RCBS but I tumble lube instead of using a pad.

TheDoctor
08-31-2015, 10:10 AM
I previously posted about my concoction of lee wax lube disolved in 99% isopropyl. Works great for my purposes! But, I was at a friend if mines the other day, to compare it to imperial, which he was using. Most dramatic test I can invision: resizing MG fired 50 cal! The imperial worked. Mine didn't. Granted, the effort involved in sizing those cases made me think of inverting the die, and using a piledriver!

jmort
08-31-2015, 10:40 AM
"Another vote for Hornady Unique...my best friend was setting up to load 50 BMG and he was having terrible trouble resizing cases. He had tried RCBS case lube and cases were wanting to stick. I brought over my Unique and the difference was night and day. I knew it was good but I didn't realize it was that much better. He even got some Imperial to try and says he likes the Hornady Unique better."

Yes indeed

Frank46
08-31-2015, 11:59 PM
Used to use a case pad and rcbs case lube but got tired of cleaning the sticky gunk off the cases. tried motor mica which was better. then went to imperial die sizing wax. Bought two tins and still on the first one. Paper towel easily removes it. tried the Hornady unique found it almost as good as the imperial wax. Frank

6bg6ga
09-14-2015, 08:23 PM
One 12oz container of ISO heat ( the red bottle). Mix one ounce of liquid lanolin in a spray bottle and throw in 12 oz of ISO heat and shake up. This works great for full length sizing of .223's and my 300 blackout forming. No need for anything else. If a little more is needed just change from a 12-1 mix to a 8-1 mix. It full length sizes everything at a fraction of the cost of One Shot.

Alan in Vermont
09-14-2015, 08:29 PM
I've been using Kiwi Mink Oil, the only thing I don't like is that it's hard to completely remove. I wet media clean my brass and have to use HOT water, dishwasher detergent and Lemmi-shine to clean it off and it still takes 3 water changes before they're squeaky-clean. Before somebody says it, yes I know that they'll shoot just as good without looking factory new, but if I wasn't a fussy, particular, detail-oriented, maybe a little anal-retentive person, I probably wouldn't be casting and reloading, I'd just go buy the commercial stuff and shoot a couple times a year like the rest of the country (present company excluded). I'm off my soapbox now [emoji57]

Another vote for Mink Oil, both for how well it works and how much of a PITA it can be to remove.
I recently used it to form 7mm & 300 WM cases into 350RM cases and then run those through a shortened and opened up 300 WM sizer on the way to making 6.5 RM cases. I use it only for the high effort stuff due to how nasty it can be to get off.

dragon813gt
09-14-2015, 09:25 PM
Another vote for Mink Oil, both for how well it works and how much of a PITA it can be to remove.
Pretty sure I posted this already but I will repeat it. Run the cases through a tumbler for an hour or so. It removes all of the mink oil. Doesn't take any effort, just time.

DRSLYR
09-23-2015, 09:48 PM
I used the Lyman lubricant & pad for years. I kept getting too much lube on the cases & denting the shoulders of the brass rifle cases (.30-30 & .30-06). I read about Imperial a few years ago & that's all I use now.

DRSLYR