ml cleaning solutions

[soldierbilly1]

Has anyone tried Hornady One shot liquid ml cleaner?
Seems to work pretty well but I feel more secure w hot water!

Is this stuff an oil or soap? Seems more like soap.

Anxious to hear comments
Billboy

[Zouave 58]

There must be a few hundred formulas for black powder cleaners but the fact is that black powder residue is water soluble. Hot water in a bucket with a touch of dish washing liquid works as well as anything- and it sure is cheaper.

[fouronesix]

Yes, pick your poison and there are a pazilion of them. The cheapest and easiest is hot soapy water, hot rinse water, drying patches of paper towel while barrel is hot, followed by water displacing oil, followed by good rust inhibiting oil. Then run a clean patch on a proper jag about a week or two after cleaning to determine if any rust has formed. That's the ultimate test.

I've noticed that with good quality modern ML bores, good cleaning and maintenance from the get go is most important. They will have much greater resistance to residual rusting if that "anal" cleaning is done from the beginning. Conversely, with old originals or even more recent closet queens, if they have ever been allowed to rust it will be a forever uphill battle to keep them rust free… after that original damage is done.

[JWFilips]

If You are shooting real black powder you need nothing more than warm water and a Surfactant ( soap). All the corrosive salts are "water soluable" Any black left over is carbon & that wont hurt the metal as long as the barrel is dried well

[pietro]

.

IME, you never know what works best until it's tried.

FWIW, none of my frontstuffers (excepting a stainless Ruger Old Army that get's cleaned in a household kitchen dishwashing machine) has seen soap & hot water since around 1980 - and I've had zero rusting and/or accuracy issues since then. (I'm nowhere near anal about it, though)

Anyone can cite many reasons it's no good, but the T-C/OxYoke Bore Butter 1000+ & Moose Milk method has made a believer out of me.

IOW - YMMV (of course).


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[ballistim]

I've used the citrus-based cleaner from Cabela's but I don't see it listed anymore & still have a half gallon left, works great for me while on a shoot, then when I am done for the day I do the hot Ivory soapy water flush, followed by Kroil for short term & RIG grease for longer storage. I guess I'll have to find s new cleaning solvent when this runs out, really like the way this one works for cleaning between shots.

[soldierbilly1]

I've used the citrus-based cleaner from Cabela's but I don't see it listed anymore & still have a half gallon left, works great for me while on a shoot, then when I am done for the day I do the hot Ivory soapy water flush, followed by Kroil for short term & RIG grease for longer storage. I guess I'll have to find s new cleaning solvent when this runs out, really like the way this one works for cleaning between shots.

This stuff really does clean well. I was hoping someone would give me an idea as to what the formulation is. It feels soapy and it smells like citrus, they claim it is non flammable. It is super on a patch between shots, certainly cleans better on than a spit patch!
However, at the end of the day, I would not trust this cleaner to get into all of the nooks and crannies.
At the end of the session, its hot water and a touch of Dawn detergent for this guy!

[ballistim]

This stuff really does clean well. I was hoping someone would give me an idea as to what the formulation is. It feels soapy and it smells like citrus, they claim it is non flammable. It is super on a patch between shots, certainly cleans better on the spot than a spit patch, for sure.
However, for the end of the day, I would not trust a cleaner to get into all of the nooks and crannies.
At the end of the session, its hot water and a touch of Dawn detergent!

I've wondered if someone has a home recipe for it too, I never use anything flammable when I run a patch after every shot at shoots or in practice so I'd like to stay with what works for me & has for many years. It works great whether I use some custom made Teflon coated patching or a lubed patches, great stuff & wasn't too expensive as I recall. I don't like "moose milk" & a builder I know & respect told me that peroxide can damage barrels. I'd like to protect my Bill Large barrel so that it lasts forever!

[waksupi]

I use plain old cold water. Hot water seems to actually harden fouling, making it harder to clean out. If you use hot water, do your first flush with cold water to remove the majority of the fouling.

[ballistim]

No I don't & my reason for using hot water is because of how quickly it dries as compared to cold water, never had a problem with fouling hardening as a 'result, possibly as a result of using a solvent soaked patch followed by a dry patch after each shot. At the end of a shoot I connect aquarium hose to the nipple & run it inside a quart mason jar filled with hot water/ivory soap mix that has a hole drilled in the lid so that the hose fits tightly, then using a brass jag with a flannel patch on my stainless cleaning rod with a nylon guide that fits into the end of the barrel I plunge it back & forth which scrubs & flushes it with the hot water/ivory soap mix having partially filling the barrel first. It's easy to drain & refill with a new jar full of the mix if needed, but usually this works very quickly. Once the soaked patches are no longer dirty I remove the hose & run clean patches down the barrel until completely dry & stand gun on the end of the barrel. I again run a patch or two to make sure it's completely dry as possible before oiling/greasing the barrel & outside of the gun. This is my method & as I've learned there are many different methods & everyone is sure their's is best, guess I'm no different ;-)

[Zouave 58]

If I don't use hot water then the only cleaner I would prefer is "Black Solve" that used to be sold by Chopie Tool&Die back in the 60's and is now sold I believe by Dixie Gun Works. It has a rust arrestor in it and cleans very well, and it makes a good spit patch lube.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

hot soapy water here , It works , I use a hot water flush at he end

I do have a formula for you for a patch lube and field cleaner 1/3 rubbing Alcohol, 1/3 hydrogen peroxide , 1/3 Murphy's oil soap , I like the 8 oz hydrogen peroxide spray bottles to keep the solution in

I use this for my patches and a little clean up before I leave the range some , when I get home the fouling is softened by the solution and cleaning is fast

[Toymaker]

If you can find GoJo WITHOUT the pumice you can dilute it with water to get a good citrus cleaner. I've used 50% to 75% dilutions and they've worked well. I used the Cabela's citrus cleaner for wiping between shots for a long time. Sorry to see it go, but a 75% dilution of non-pumice GoJo works the same. But for cleaning I go to hot water with [real] lye soap.

[Dmitri Popov]

Mix 1 part hot water with 2 parts hot water. There ya go, just gave you the top secret, end all, best formula for cleaning black powder. :D

[JWFilips]

Mix 1 part hot water with 2 parts hot water. There ya go, just gave you the top secret, end all, best formula for cleaning black powder. :D
+1 : Total Water solubility of all the acid salts....(Back then it was not rocket science) ...dry well & oil!

We modern minds over think everything. We have no idea of how simple it was back then! & You young guys are thinking there must be a catch!!!!:mrgreen:

[bob208]

over 25 years of shooting muzzle loaders all I ever used is hot water with a dash of dish soap. then a hot water rinse. with a few dry patches. then a patch with wd-40. all that time never a brush or fouling getting hard or rust.

I agree jw they are trying to reinvent the wheel.

[bigted]

I use plain old cold water. Hot water seems to actually harden fouling, making it harder to clean out. If you use hot water, do your first flush with cold water to remove the majority of the fouling.

+1 ... I usually use plain ol cold water as a cleaner for my BP guns. it works and I always have good luck with never have rust problems with this historic solution. maybe if I get some bear grease ... id be just the same as the ODG's. but for now I get good use of rem oil sprayed over and into all nooks n cranny's followed with a good wipe down both inside and out and when im ready to go shooting again ... I swab the bore till nice n dry and commence to have a ball for as long as I desire to shoot.

I like the "one part water mixed WELL with two parts water" .

[Fly]

Yep hot soap & water, but I do throw in a little ammonia that does help.

Fly

[mack1]

I have had very little corrosion once I stoped using anything with petroleum in it. Went to atf for preserving and water for cleaning wd40 for drying and am in no way anal about any of it.

[fouronesix]

Having shot BP for the last 47 years, I've tried about everything. Quite a few methods seem to work well. But, no matter the method of cleaning and maintenance, one thing has become clear to me. It is at least 10X easier to clean and maintain a bore in pristine condition after shooting BP than to clean and maintain one that has an etched or degraded bore.

I have always been very anal about keeping all guns clean (smokeless and BP) and that has never let me down. I have a mixture of new guns, used guns and really old guns.

Guaranteed!... if a bore is etched or pitted, even by the smallest amount, it is a big job to clean it and a huge job to keep it from further corrosion after shooting BP. That is based on the experience of having and shooting quite a few 100-200 year old originals.

[ballistim]

I've used the citrus-based cleaner from Cabela's but I don't see it listed anymore & still have a half gallon left, works great for me while on a shoot, then when I am done for the day I do the hot Ivory soapy water flush, followed by Kroil for short term & RIG grease for longer storage. I guess I'll have to find s new cleaning solvent when this runs out, really like the way this one works for cleaning between shots.

Look what I found!http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/03/1f10885bbffacf8b6c5243d5b8622d1f.jpg