Reloading for Marlin 1894 in .44-40 (1905 production)

[lobogunleather]

Recently acquired an original Marlin 1894 in .44-40 caliber, 24" octagon, half mag, very good condition overall with good-plus bore. Have ordered a die set, new brass (Starline), and small supply of cast bullets (200-grain RNFP .427" diameter) to get started with. Realize that I will probably need to start casting for this one, but figured I can start the learning curve and figure out bullet type, diameter, etc, to work best with this rifle.

Most of the research I have done on these old Marlins indicates that bore and groove diameters varied quite a bit back in the day, with .431 or so being pretty common. Assuming that I will probably have to deal with such issues (just taken delivery of rifle so I have not slugged it yet). First question that comes to mind is whether or not the Marlin's chambers are likely to accept cartridges loaded with bullets of larger than factory spec (.427") diameters without problems (chamber dimensions, pressures, etc). Figuring I can determine much of this from fired cases from the rifle, but a chamber casting may be required.

Also find that the typical rifling twist for these is 1:38", which seems to indicate the shorter and lighter weight bullets such as 200, 180, etc, RNFP or SWC for the tubular mag.

Planning on using modest loads of smokeless powder. Use of the rifle will likely be recreational shooting only, perhaps some small game use (assuming I can achieve reasonable accuracy). No intention of trying to work this 110-year old gun too hard.

Have read through a number of posts here on the forum. Most seem to deal with the modern 1894 Marlins rather than the early production rifles. I am an experienced caster and reloader (40-plus years) and have played with many other older rifles and calibers (.32-20, .25-20, .45-70, .45-90, .45 Sharps Express) but this is my first experience with the .44-40. Knowing how much experience and knowledge is present on this forum, I would appreciate any guidance you may care to offer. No sense in reinventing the wheel every time I find another antique rifle!

Thanks in advance.

[fouronesix]

All the old originals are individuals unto themselves. Once you get the brass, go ahead and load a couple of rounds with whatever bullet and shoot a couple of medium pressure shots. Measure the expanded neck diameter and subtract 2X the neck wall thickness... that will be about the max limit for bullet diameter. Slug the bore for groove diameter. Those two measurements will give some idea of what you have to work with.

Try a fairly soft (like 20:1 alloy) plain base 200 grain RNFP bullet like an original design. Don't push it too hard. A good size to start is from groove diameter up to about .002" larger than groove diameter.

[missionary5155]

Greetings
I also have an old Marlin 44 WCF and mine is a fat bore with an even fatter throat. My learning curve working with 44 WCF lever rifles (numerous) is that the better shape the bore the more you need to adhere to the basic lead boolit shape (nose) these were designed to shoot. The more well used they are the more loose "tolerances" are a bit more forgiving if using a wider meplate boolit design. Plus the "older style" noses were short and well tapered keeping OAL short and the slide into the chamber much easier.
I have not found a .427 boolit shoot well with smokeless. It might hit a 6 inch paper plate at 25 yards or not at all. I have one that will not shoot well without a .432 cast soft over 3F.
Now if it is cast soft (I like 40-1) and sitting on BP (I prefer 3F) then it will bump up and come closer to being the right diameter as it begins the journey down the tube. My "Test Load" with lever rifles is a 220 grpb Saeco cast of 40-1. It drops at .430+. It has a large FN but I load them one at a time into the chamber as I am checking accuracy. I load as much 3F as possible (33 grains avg depending on case length) and fire 7 of these. I lube with about 45% olive oil- 55% Beeswax. If the barrel will not shoot these well I know I am in for some long reloading program. I have a couple barrels that are ugly bores. Interupted rifling, pitted and dark but they will shoot this load to about 3-4 inches at 50 yards. A nice barrel will shoot this load at 100 yards under 3 inches if I can keep my wiggles under control. At 64 years old it is getting tougher.
Flawless funtion.. Keep your brass on the short side and use an origonal nose shaped boolit. Get a mold that has a good crimp groove in the right place. Use the lever with "gusto" and do not sissy it. Your old rifle should have all the stiffness worked out. But do clean it well. I have always found old dried grease in corners here and there that did not help anything. I detail strip all my "new to me" lever flippers.
Mike in Peru

I have found it difficult to best a 3F load in older lever rifles. May be able to get close but never better.

[Rimfire]

This site has some good info.
http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/team-44-40/

[Outpost75]

The 38" twist will handle as heavy a bullet as you can load in the .44-40 and have feed.

A full-charge load which is safe in your original 1894 Marlin is a nominal "caseful" of Alliant RL7, lightly compressed, using a 200-240 grain cast lead bullet of 1:30 or 1:40 alloy. The correct charge is 26 grains for a 200-grain bullet and about 24 grains for a 230-240 grain bullet. In a rifle designed for smokeless powder you cannot get enough RL7 into the case to get into any trouble. The compressed charge supports the bullet base in the same manner that a compressed charge of black powder does. You can also use IMR4198 the same way in a rifle.

If you plan to cast your own bullets and will use smokeless powder, the Accurate 43-230G bullet is one which has worked well for me in my modern Marlin Microgroove .44-40.
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[lobogunleather]

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Now have some photos to show what I will be working with. Pretty nice condition for a 110 year old rifle. Strong bore with minimal roughness.

Assembling some modest loads in new Starline brass to begin the process of returning this old Marlin to regular use.

Thanks for all the input. Very helpful.

[Outpost75]

Nice looking rifle. I would assemble a dummy round in Starline brass, assembled with a soft bullet which actually MEASURES .430", mark the neck and shoulder with Dychem or felt tip marker, then drop it into the chamber and let it fall in of its own weight, then carefully try to close and lever. Stop if you meet firm resistance, then extract the dummy and examine it to see if the chamber neck is tight. If it is, then get the Accurate 43-200Q or QL bullet and size the enlarged bullet nose to fit the throat and the smaller shank will not be affected by the size die.

129315

[lobogunleather]

Took the old Marlin out yesterday to test fire with my first batch of ammunition. Had only limited range available, so this was more a function test than an accuracy test.

The load was assembled in new Starline brass, neck expanded on the Lyman M-die, CCI large pistol primer, 9.0 grain Unique, and commercial hard cast .429" 200 grain RNFP supplied with blue lube, moderate roll crimp.

All functions (feeding, firing, extraction, ejection) were perfect. This load must be relatively close to what the last user was shooting as the rifle fired precisely to point of aim at 50 yards. Recoil was sharp, noticeable with the curved steel buttplate but not punishing by any means. No groups were attempted on this trip, but beer cans were no problem to hit every time shooting offhand. Fired cases show no signs of bulging, flattening of primers, or any other indications of trouble. Bore cleaned easily with nothing more than patches and solvent.

I think I am going to enjoy this old rifle a lot. Next time I'll try some targets at 100 yards to get a better idea of its potential.