Marlin 94 44 Mag HELP!!!!!!

[mrdante]

I have a Marlin model 1894 chambered in 44 mag. It is a pre-safety model, I got this on a trade for a Glock 45. (I came out great I only had $300 invested in the Glock). I only shoot cast boolits in all my 44 mags. I have several Ruger SBH, a S&W 629 and a Ruger Carbine (semi-auto). (They all love the following Boolits)

I load the Lee 310 and the 'old Keith 429421 in my mags. None of these will feed in my Marlin. The Keith boolit jams 100% of the time, and the 310 needs a real good "wiggle" to feed. Not to good of an idea when bear hunting IMOA.

I know people have had good luck feeding these two boolits. I had another Marlin (long gone) that would.

My question is what can I or a GOOD gunsmith do to fix this?

I do not have alot of time to invest these days with work and family, but if it is a simple fix I can tackle it, if not who do you guys recommend? And what exactly is going on?

I know the cartridge is too long but why would one Marlin work and no the other?

[MT Chambers]

My '94 Marlin does not feed those Keith bullets very well either because of the 2 sharp corners on the bullet, some LBT Lfn designs feed slick, Lymans 240 grain cowboy bullet feeds very well also, I'd skip the gunsmith and get mold/s designed to feed well. Some of the Saeco/ssk designs feed very well.

[mrdante]

MT what molds have you had luck with in the 250+ range?

[imashooter2]

What is the OAL of the loaded Lee 310?

[mrdante]

Iv'e tried both crimp grooves.

[imashooter2]

And the number?

[mrdante]

I'll have to check my notes in the AM.

[imashooter2]

The 310 design should feed well if the OAL is under about 1.6. Longer than that and you will often need to do a carrier modification, although some individual rifles can handle very long cartridges right from the factory.

[Airman Basic]

This one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013PVR44/
feeds slick as can be in my Marlin. Cheap, too.

[OBXPilgrim]

You need the Ranch Dog 265 mold if that rifle gives you that much trouble. If it wouldn't feed that one - then start looking for a gunsmith. There are several of these out there - maybe you can find someone that would sell one. There's probably a group buy signup for it right now also.

These would both work:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?256617-MiHec-429640-HP-or-Solid-2-Cav-or-4-Cav-Brass-Mold

http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=217&osCsid=tsg6sa7rr421uppca7gq9stqc4

[30calflash]

Manufacturing variations exist even in the same model line. It happens.

Have you tried any factory ammo? Make sure it feeds that before you have it smithed. It could be a sharp edge or? but if factory doesn't work it could be worn parts.

OAL could be a culprit especially in the 94. Maybe adjust the seating depth a little at a time.

IIRC I fired some Keith boolits in my 73 vintage 94 and they functioned OK. They didn't seem to group well so I didn't spend much time with them.

[lovedogs]

Saeco makes a mould for a 250 gr. RNFP (#431 I think) that was designed to feed flawlessly in .44 cal. lever guns. I use Lyman #2 alloy, Hornady GC, 50/50 Alox lube, 23 gr. H110 in mine and it shoots groups right at an inch at 100 yds. with a scope mounted to test loads. After finding the right load I put a Williams aperture sight on it. If I do my part it never misses out to 250 yds. Couldn't ask for better. With cast I can't see the need for anything heavier than the 250 gr. 'cuz they always give total penetration and they feed like they were coated with STP.

[CBH]

My Marlin CB .44mag was modded to shot swc. Real slick. I think it's worth it to look into the carrier mod.

[gundownunder]

I'd check your OAL. Maybe load those two bullets into 44 SPL brass and see if they feed.

[longbow]

I had much the same problem with feeding though the Lyman 429421 would feed most of the time if I crimped over the front driving band. Still hung up sometimes though.

I went to an RNFP design with shorter nose (home made mould) which worked well. Many years later I wound up with a Mihec H&G#503 which is such a beautiful mould I wanted to make it work. So, I did some work to the Marlin.

First was to file the cartridge stop to allow longer OAL. That is an easy job.

Once that was solved, I found the SWC's tend to catch on the sharp edge breech face because, for my gun, the carrier lifted the cartridge angle too high. Not a lot but enough. So, I filed the carrier to lower the incoming cartridge and that worked pretty well. It now feeds the H&G #503 very well.

Someone else posted that if you put a very slight bevel or radius on the sharp edge of the chamber mouth that will fox it.

Probably the best solution though is to use an RNFP design. As mentioned, the Ranchdog 265 gr. boolit would be the standard to try. If it feeds then that is the nose you want.

I also have the Mihec 434640 which feeds flawlessly and comes in at 270 gr. in solid.

Something else to think about too is rifling twist. Mine is the 1:38" and I have never manages to get decent long range accuracy with boolits over about 270/280 grs. so I stick with boolits of up to 270 grs. 300 gr. boolits were keyholing at 100 yards... even 300 grain jacketed.

And another observation, it you are not aware, Marlins tend to have "fat" bores. Mine likes boolits of 0.433"/0.434". If you haven't slugged your bore you should, then get a mould diameter to suit.

I'd take OBXPilgrim's advice first though and try the Ranchdog boolit.

Longbow

[9w1911]

I have considered having a gunsmith make a feed ramp for my 1894 44 round barrel. It is my understanding the cowboy version of this gun has a feed ramp.
1 OAL is crucial
2 having a bullet with minimal front drve bands helps yet the RCBS 300gr SWC feeds perfect however I have had mods done and had replaced my carrier.

[imashooter2]

Carrier mod:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?7750-Modifying-the-Marlin-1894-for-a-longer-cartridge-OAL

[W.R.Buchanan]

This has been discussed in detail 50 times here and I have posted the picture of the chamfered chamber mouth a dozen times at least.

Once more. This is all you need to do and it takes about 30 minutes. Put a chamfer of about .050 to .060 on the mouth of the chamber . All of the boolits you want to shoot hang up because the sharp edge on the chamber mouth cuts into the leading edges of the boolits.

The chamfer fixes all of this.

Randy

[Airman Basic]

This has been discussed in detail 50 times here and I have posted the picture of the chamfered chamber mouth a dozen times at least.

Once more. This is all you need to do and it takes about 30 minutes. Put a chamfer of about .050 to .060 on the mouth of the chamber . All of the boolits you want to shoot hang up because the sharp edge on the chamber mouth cuts into the leading edges of the boolits.

The chamfer fixes all of this.

Randy
Okay, how do I accomplish this, please.

[725]

Chamfer should work. Also may try the 429215 boolit. Solved my problems.

[W.R.Buchanan]

OK, you need a 5/8" 90 degree multi flute Countersink. Severence Brand is good.

You will make an 8" extension for the shank of the countersink out of 1/2 rod and put a tee handle in it so you can turn it by hand.

You remove the bolt and lever from the gun so you can insert the countersink into the chamber from the back.

You turn the CSK by hand and work it until you have generated a chamfer that is between .050 and .060 wide. Then polish the chamfer with sand paper until it is smooth. You can use a wooden dowel with a taper ground onto the end covered with wet or dry sand paper to do this.

You don't want to go beyond .060 as the extractor groove on a .44 case is .060 wide. This area of the case is normally unsupported any way since there is a groove there so having a chamfer in the chamber mouth will not alter the integrity of the chamber in the slightest.

The reason for all of this is,,, If you slowly work the action with a SWC or WFN boolit you will see that the cartridge is pinned up against the top of the receiver as it is being fed forward towards the chamber, and the leading edge of the cartridge must be small enough to clear the sharp edge of the chamber or it will be gouged into by the edge, and the feed will be stopped.

Removing the sharp edge on the chamber mouth by making chamfer allows the boolit to pass by without having the sharp edge cutting into it.

That's all there is to it. It should look like the picture when done.