ROA shooting questions

[True.grit]

So I picked up a ROA cap and ball with adjustable sits. With a standard 20 gr load of 3f it shoots about 6 inches high at 25yrds. The rear site is about as low as you can get. Is there any opions other than aiming low? thanks for your help in advance.

[Nazgul]

Raise the charge. 35 grains at least.

Don

[Outpost75]

I replaced the front sight on mine.

[rking22]

You did not say ball or bullet, will need higher front blade for the bullets. Ball should be close with "issue" front blade.

[True.grit]

You did not say ball or bullet, will need higher front blade for the bullets. Ball should be close with "issue" front blade.

I tried 35 gr charge same point of aim. I also tried 40 gr 2f as well. Shoots tite groups though.

I am using .457 round ball. The site is soldered on it was made 1973. Not sure how to raise?

[docone31]

You remove the front sight, and dovetail in another.

[koger]

I have the same gun in stainless. I cranked my rear sight down as far as it would go, and use 35 grains of 3fffg, holy black, and a felt wad over it, topped off with a 220gr bullet, 2 grease groove, forget the name of the maker, but the mold is a dandy. Will shoot groups around 1 1/2 inches or less, off a rest at 30yds. I have taken 2 deer, with this load, does a great job with a pure lead slug.

[rodwha]

Mine is pinned, and Ruger sent me a free Blackhawk sight to replace it with, which I haven't done.

I've read of a few guys reshaping the rear sight so as not to put a taller front sight on. It seems plenty tall as is, and I don't know that I'd want it any taller. I'm thinking of trying the rear sight modification.

In a recent thread I saw that you might want to remove the screw and file a little off so that it will go all the way down without bottoming out.

But you'd want to dial in your load before you do so!

[rodwha]

The 220 grn bullet sounds like it may be the Lee RN.

[True.grit]

I do not want to raise the front site as well. I tried to lower the site as low as possible but it did not allow the cylinder to index. 6 inches at 25 yards with a 7.5 inch barrel could not need to be lowered much. Thank you guys for the help.

[triggerhappy243]

I will bet the screw is passing thru the top strap. you can file off the screw while it protrudes thru the top strap. remove the cylinder and screw the screw in as far as it will go and use a fine file and work it little bits at a time.

[cwheel]

My early ROA has the factory front sight as far as I can tell. With 35 gr. of Pyrodex P, and a round ball it shoots to point of aim @25 yards. You might want to give Pyrodex P and a round ball a try before doing anything to the front sight. Also possible that the front sight could have been changed already to compensate for a conical slug ?? Try to get some conical slugs and try that as well. I personally prefer the round ball. Notice that in wood they do more damage than a 45 acp reload.
Chris

[True.grit]

My early ROA has the factory front sight as far as I can tell. With 35 gr. of Pyrodex P, and a round ball it shoots to point of aim @25 yards. You might want to give Pyrodex P and a round ball a try before doing anything to the front sight. Also possible that the front sight could have been changed already to compensate for a conical slug ?? Try to get some conical slugs and try that as well. I personally prefer the round ball. Notice that in wood they do more damage than a 45 acp reload.
Chris

Well i had just a fuzz left in elevation and i cranked it all the way down. I perfer round ball as well. I am not a fan of pyrodex as I tried it many years ago with nothing but hang fires and problems. Black is perfered, it seems to clean up easyer. I could be possible that it has allready ben raised and I just have not found the right combination. I am impressed with the accuracy. Do you use any wad or filler? Thanks

[koger]

I use a felt wad, with wonder lube between the powder and ball/slug, much safer that way also, no chance of ring fires.

[cwheel]

Yes, I use the pre-lubed " Wonder Wad " on top of the powder charge and CCI #11 caps. Balls shave lead when rammed, no grease seamed necessary. Never a hang fire with Pyrodex, but I've got almost new nipples on it. Also almost never fire at a range and carry in a holster, lack of grease keeps the pistol cleaner long term. 35 gr. of Pyrodex works well, with 40 groups seam to open up from 2 1/2" to almost 4" @ 25 yards.
Chris

[True.grit]

Sounds like you guys use 35 gr charge. Well back to the range for some more shooting. Thanks guys for the help.

[cwheel]

The other thing I should mention, round ball, wonder wad, 35 gr. of Pyrodex P loaded in a chamber leaves just enough room for the factory ball seating rod to seat the ball on top of the powder. Don't know how those using 20 gr. of powder get proper ball seating in the chamber without a filler ??
Chris

[True.grit]

Well I have used cornmeal as a filler, but it take twice as long to charge and smells like you are cooking cornbread. The wad is the the thing to do.

[rodwha]

I don't care much for filler. If I need filler I'll use a wad or two.

35 grns seems to do me quite well too. But I've mostly tested with my .400" long 170 grn and .460" long 195 grn WFN bullets. But I think a ball was favorable of 35 grns too (energetic powders).

I also had quit using wads with balls though and they didn't seem to care much. Haven't had a chain fire either. But then I read most believe a chain fire is from ill fitting caps as the lead is fitted to the chamber as it was oversized prior to seating. Unless there's an issue with the chamber mouth you just cannot get a chain fire from the front. But I certainly don't qualify as a sage on these issues...

[big bore 99]

I've experienced a couple chain fires. Sure does wake you up.