First Cast NOE 45-70 330gr

[pjames32]

Fired up my new NOE 330gr mold today. My background, 40+ years casting, 20+ years since I've used a "new mold", my first aluminum mold ever.
I've never cast anything over 250gr and always used iron molds, mostly pistol.
My mix, 1/2 CWWW, 1/2 Isotope, usually yields a 12-14 hardness, adequate for the 45-70 loads I have planned.
Scrubbed the molds with dish soap, dried on the old Lyman furnace ledge while I heated up my alloy. Applied the sprue lube per instructions.
My usual pistol/iron mold temp of 670 was reached and I started to fill the mold to see what I got. Yuck! I started to remember my last new mold. NO, I did not smoke the molds as recommended. Just never thought that worked.
I had a lot of wrinkles. Gradually increased the lead temp and the mold temp. Not much change, but stayed with it. After about 100 cast rejects and temps now around 700-710 on my thermometer I had a few that were good enough to size.
I added some to my melt, let the mold cool and the melt come up to 700+ and cast some more.
I'm still getting about 25% with some wrinkling. Grease grooves look good, bullets are not shiny. I've increased the flow a little. I thing the molds are breaking in.
After some adult beverages and a nights sleep, tomorrow I will fire up the mill and make new molds guides since my antique Lyman guides are too narrow for the NOE Molds. I'll do a hardness check with my absolute Lee Harness tester ant try again.
Aluminum molls with a cavity larger than I'm used to will require some practice.
I'm very happy with the NOE mold. They are casting about .4595-.460. My Marlin bbl slugged .4575-.458 so I should be good lube/sizing at .459.
I'm a happy caster!
PJ

[knifemaker]

I use a Ranch Dog 6 banger 350 Gr. aluminum mold and about the same alloy as you for about 14 bn with 2% tin. I found I got the best fill out and no wrinkles at a lead temp of around 720-725 degrees. I also pre heat my mold on a lab hot plate with a ceramic top. I preheat to about 350 degrees and get very good bullets on the second or third cast. After casting a few I have to watch my cadence in order to give the sprue enough time to harden and I use a small 4 inch fan to help with that.

[Dale53]

I have aluminum, iron, and brass moulds (including one from NOE). I always pre-heat my mould to just below best casting temp (one or two moulds full and perfect bullets start rolling out). I use 2% tin with my alloys for best fill out. I find that almost necessary - it sure makes fine bullets easier to cast.

FWIW
Dale53

[35 shooter]

Ditto...pre-heat the mould. My Noe's like to run a bit hot anyway. I did pre heat and let mine cool down at room temp. 3 times before casting with them the first time like the instructions say and smoked the cavities to start with. Like the other posters here i get perfect boolits within just a few pours.
Your gonna love that Noe, that thing will rain boolits if cast with at the right temp. At least mine do. Congrats on your Noe mould and good casting!

[725]

Concur. You casting will improve with higher heat.

[pjames32]

Thanks for the replies. I'll try a higher alloy temp today. I did preheat the molds on the edge of the pot.

[hickfu]

I have the NOE molds for the 35 Remington, I always heat on a hot plate from wallmart (about $30.00) and from the first cast they were producing perfect boolits.... I LOVE NOE!!!

[pjames32]

Building a mold guide today then back to casting. I do not have any tin, but do have some linotype. How much do I need to add for better fill out? Thx for the help!

[pjames32]

Built my mold guide and tried it again. Added 1lb of linotype and a 12" strip of 50/50 bar solder (all I had). Raised the alloy temp to 720+/-, preheated the mold and cast 3-4 lbs.
Bullet fill out is better but still have some wrinkling in the lubes grooves. Also notice I have some roughness around the front of the bullet. I've contacted NOE about the roughness.
I'm having more bullet sticking to the molds at the higher temp. I think my mold temp is too high.
I'll await a reply from NOE, but my plans are to get some more tin for my next session and possibly try run 2 molds to keep the mold temp down.
Any other suggestions are GREATLY appreciated!
Thx
PJ

[35 shooter]

Most of the time i'm running either straight ww or sometimes 50/50 cow/sow through my NOE'S. I get great great fill out even with no tin added. My mould is hot enough when i start casting, it only takes a very few fills to get perfect boolits.
I do pre heat my moulds on a hot plate while my lead is melting in the pot.
I will slowly count while i watch the sprue puddle untill it stops changing color, open the mould and the boolits drop on their own. If i open too soon they stick. Also if i wait too long they will stick and require a few taps to release.
To start with, a count of 7 to 9 will be about right for me to open the mould. After 40 to 50 boolits the mould is hotter and a count of as much as 12 to 15 may work better, just watch the sprue puddle.
At that point i turn the melt down, or touch the bottom of the mould to a cool wet sponge or towel, or let the mould cool a bit. Whatever it takes to keep the temp and rythm right. Again watching the sprue puddle all the while.
Also might try pouring a larger sprue puddle to heat the sprue plate up quicker even when the mould has been pre heated.
When that noe mould and sprue cutter are hot enough to mould boolits it doesn't take much of a tap at all to cut the sprue and the sprue's will literally jump off the mould.
If your having to tap hard or more than once to cut the sprue, in my opinion, it's not hot enough yet....keep pouring a bigger puddle to heat the sprue more.
Is the roughness just frosting? My boolits drop best lightly frosted...it wipes right off if you want after they cool.
Hope some of this helps and you may already know all this.....just suggestions. I know how it feels when it's not going right. Al at noe will probably get you going with it or fix it if somethings wrong.

BTW when through with casting and the mould cools, i spray mine down with wd40. Before casting i spray them inside and out with non chlorinated brake fluid to get all the oil off.
Wipe it with a dry rag BEFORE putting on a hot plate to pre heat for casting.
Maybe try smoking the cavities with a bic lighter after the mould is hot. I find it to help breaking in a new al. mould.

[35 shooter]

I have the NOE molds for the 35 Remington, I always heat on a hot plate from wallmart (about $30.00) and from the first cast they were producing perfect boolits.... I LOVE NOE!!!

Yep! Me too...love em!

[pjames32]

35 shooter-Thanks for the detailed tips. I did hear from Al at NOE and he feels my mold temp is too low so I'll try heat it up some more this afternoon.
The roughness is not frosting. I'll clean the molds again today before I start. If that does not fix it, I'll send the molds back to NOE and have them take a look. Al is supportive and will stand behind the molds I'm sure.
After 40+ years of casting, these are my first aluminum molds. Most of my casting has been COWW and I've always been able to make iron molds work well.
I think this old man may just be a slow learner!
Thanks for the guidance.
PJ

[pjames32]

Did another session today. Followed 35 shooter's tips!
First scrubbed the mold with brake clean and a toothbrush, then smoked the cavities.
I went back to my usual mix of 9lbs of COWW and 1lb of linotype, but added a 12" strip of 50/50 solder for a little added tin.
Preheated molds, lead temp 700-720* and started casting. After about 5 fills I was getting better frosting than before and was getting usable bullets. Still not perfect fill out of the lube grooves and the irregular surface of the nose is still present.
I've cast enough usable bullets for now and have sent an e mail to Al at NOE. I think the problem is ME, but I want someone smarter tan me to take a look. I left the last 2 bullets cast in the mold so he will see what I'm trying to describe.
Thanks to everyone who has given me input. That's why I'm glad I found this forum. Altho I've been casting a long time, it has been with iron molds and mostly COWW for my pistols. My WW supply is nearly gone so I'll be asking more questions about suggestions for lead mix. I've accumulated a pretty good supply of lead and have 50lbs. or so of linotype. Most of my bullets are for .45 and .40 from 800fps to 1200fps
THX
PJ

[35 shooter]

pjames32 Al will stand behind it if something is wrong with the mould. Hate your having trouble with it. I'm sure you already knew all the things i suggested anyway. I just put a few things out there 'just in case'. I had an old lyman mold once i never could get to cast and i tried everything i knew and everything anyone else said to try to no avail.
Sent it back and was told it cast just fine, but they sent me a new one anyway. The new one worked just fine for me.
Maybe it was just me but i couldn't get the original one to work at all.

It does sound like something may be up with that mould....let us know and good luck with it.

[5Shot]

When I got an Aluminum mold (had all brass or iron) I had to get the mold much hotter than expected and cast more quickly to keep it hot. When I started letting the sprues harden with the mold on top of the pot I found the sweet spot. The extra heat kept the mold in its temp zone.

[pjames32]

35 shooter-Al called me this afternoon. We talked and I'll send the mold to him tomorrow. I think it is ME, but want some confirmation.
5 Shot- I think I was closer to the sweet spot today. Just not quite.
I will make this work!
PJ