Cutting sprues on .22's....

[waco]

Lee six cavity Bator. Maybe it's just my mold but does anyone else run into this problem?

The spruce is almost the same size as the base of the boolit. Maybe I need to chamfer the sprue plate a bit. The picture will speak for itself. This is a real problem when seating gas checks. The never go on square. I'm guessing it's not so good when trying to use them as plain base either.

[runfiverun]

a lot of the LEE 6 cavity mold plates are not flat they are convex/concave.
try running the sprue plate over a piece of wet/dry paper wetted down wrapped around a dead flat square piece of steel or glass and see where the were pattern develops.
or just set it across a flat edge and look at it.

[williamwaco]

Lee six cavity Bator. Maybe it's just my mold but does anyone else run into this problem?

The spruce is almost the same size as the base of the boolit. Maybe I need to chamfer the sprue plate a bit. The picture will speak for itself. This is a real problem when seating gas checks. The never go on square. I'm guessing it's not so good when trying to use them as plain base either.



Are you saying the sprue leaves a lump on the base of the bullet? or it is off center on the base of the bullet

[waco]

Are you saying the sprue leaves a lump on the base of the bullet? or it is off center on the base of the bullet

Leaves a lump.

[MaryB]

I take all my lee sprue plates and run them on a coarse stone until flat, then I use a 1,000 grit to polish.

[Snowbelt]

I have the same problem with my two cavity Bator. I run the base over a fine file to knock the tops off followed by fine sandpaper. Problem I have is getting the base square, so the GC will be flush. Seems like a lot of work to me.

[williamwaco]

Leaves a lump.

Many possible causes of the lump.

Most likely with the Lee six cavity is warped sprue plate. If it isn't warped now, it will be soon.
re-read runfive's comments.

Another cause is the sprue plate is too loose, and It "cocks up" as it swipes accross the top of the mold. This problem will be aggravated by letting the sprue get too hard.

1) Be sure the sprue plate is not warped.
2) Be sure the sprue pivot bolt (plate attachment bolt) is tight ( But not enough to cause binding.)
3) Be sure there is not a burr or spot of lead on top of the blocks holding the sprue plate up above the surface of the blocks.
4) Always cut the sprue as soon as it hardens. ( Another issue is that the sprue lever is not strong enough to cut a sprue that has completely cooled. Never let that happen.) If it is hard to cut, you are waiting too long.

[Gtek]

How sharp is chamfer bottom? Maybe confirm/get plate to flat, then find a mill or press with a good stop and hit all at once and then flat plate.

[popper]

Cutting sprue too early can produce that as a tear pulling molten metal from the base. Generaly you get pits in the base but if it solidifies just as cutting, you get the nubbie. I just tap with a hammer to flatten it. If you wait too long & sprue is a little loose you get an angled cut which is worse. Depends a lot on the hardness your alloy.

[waco]

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll look at the sprue plate and see what I find.

[1Shirt]

Agree with Poppers advice. Maybe if you cast slower you could avoid some of your problem. I have no problem with my 6 cav. Bator.
1Shirt!

[Bjornb]

Waco,
I bought several of Red River Rick's high quality steel sprue plates for the 6-cav Lee molds. I could send you one to try on the Bator, and if it works you can either buy it at cost (I'll have to find out what I paid but it wasn't bad), or just send it back if it's not what you want.
Bjorn

[cbrick]

Lee six cavity Bator. Maybe it's just my mold but does anyone else run into this problem?

The spruce is almost the same size as the base of the boolit. Maybe I need to chamfer the sprue plate a bit. The picture will speak for itself. This is a real problem when seating gas checks. The never go on square. I'm guessing it's not so good when trying to use them as plain base either.

Could be nothing more than your tree being a little loose. :mrgreen:

Rick

[Bjornb]

Could be nothing more than your tree being a little loose. :mrgreen:

Rick

Haha I saw that but I tried to be polite.....

[waco]

Damn auto correct. I owe you one Rick.

[waco]

Waco,
I bought several of Red River Rick's high quality steel sprue plates for the 6-cav Lee molds. I could send you one to try on the Bator, and if it works you can either buy it at cost (I'll have to find out what I paid but it wasn't bad), or just send it back if it's not what you want.
Bjorn

Bjorn. I'll take you up on the offer. I'll shoot you a PM.

[cbrick]

:mrgreen: A lot of newbies make that mistake but I figured you knew the correct spelling.

Rick

[waco]

:mrgreen: A lot of newbies make that mistake but I figured you knew the correct spelling.

Rick

Boy. You know how to make a guy feel good.

[cbrick]

Boy. You know how to make a guy feel good.

No, you misunderstood. I knew how it happened and that you know the difference, just couldn't help myself, had to point it out. Ya gotta admit it's funny.

Rick

[waco]

No, you misunderstood. I knew how it happened and that you know the difference, just couldn't help myself, had to point it out. Ya gotta admit it's funny.

Rick
Ok. I'll give you that! :)

[trixter]

Down here in Central Point, the 6 cavity Bator mold is working just fine. Just getting the gas checks on them little critters is the problem. A very intense endeavor. I try to do a few every chance I get, but when the patience starts going away, then I put them up for a while. Have fun. Please report on what helped the most.
Thanks

[stephen m weiss]

My 6 cavity bator mold does that. There are wave washers to hold the sprue plate down, but after getting hot a few times, they are not so strong. I have to tap the sprue plate down flush to the aluminum with my beater stick or gloved hand. It sucks because if I forget, the lumpy bases go in the pile and I have to visually cull them, even thought they may be otherwise perfect. Hammering them down will prevent gc upset, but will still leave the extra lead weight offcenter a bit. I guess subsequent sizing would improve that a bit.