New to lyman #2

[cs86]

I've just dabbled in shooting cast through a rifle and was pleased enough that I want to do some more testing. In my process so far I haven't played to much with harder alloys, so what I've shot hasn't been to scientific for alloy (WW + Tin/Antimony mix, water quenched, lubed and shot). I wanted to play with a more consistent harder alloy that is easy to order along with being able to push a little higher velocity, so I'll be getting some #2 Lyman alloy in the next couple weeks. The question I have is if I need to be water quenching these #2 Lyman boolits or if they really need to be. I don't have a BHN tester and wondered what the average BHN of #2 Lyman and how much harder does it get with water quenching? What has your experiences been? I'm sure there will be a preference in each gun for lube type, powder, and hardness also which will all boils down to testing and seeing for myself. Each gun seems to have it's own flavor. Thanks for any input.

[str8shot426]

Lyman #2 is very tin rich and brinnels at 14-15. Casts beautiful boolits and needs no quenching in my opinion.
Its my personal favorite.

[Char-Gar]

There are no circumstances in cast bullet shooting, either rifle or handgun that requires a bullet harder than air cooled Lyman No. 2 alloy.

I never water drop anything and use just two alloys for everything.

1. Air cooled wheel weight with 1% tin.

2. Air cooled Lyman No 2.

[prs]

#2 is about 90%PB, 5%SN, and 5%SB; that is pretty rich for this poo boy. I notice Lyman #2 age hardens noticeably. I see it priced at over $3 per pound. yikes!

prs

[gwpercle]

I agree with Char-Gar. I only air-cool. Clip on wheel weights + a little tin for years, but lately my alloy has consisted of 50/50 COWW and lead + a little tin. My free, unlimited WW source dried up and I am trying to stretch my WW metal. I think I like the 50/50 mix better.
Extreme hardness may be over rated. Fit seems to rule.

Gary

[leadman]

I disagree with Char-Gar, but only as far as it goes to shooting jacketed velocities and beyond with cast. For 95% of what I shoot an alloy of 18bhn is good. Water quenched #2 would be ideal. For velocities around 1,600 to 1,800 fps and good gun barrels air cooled #2 works fine.
I shoot heat treated linotype for velocities aver 3,200 fps in my 223 Rem Contender 23" bull barrel. Have hit 3,619 fps average with no leading. Linotype takes a couple of weeks even heat treated to reach full hardness of 34 bhn.
Bore condition plays a role in the alloy choice also. I have a couple of rifles that the chamber neck will not accept a boolit needed to fill the grooves, so these get a softer 11 BHN.

[williamwaco]

There are no circumstances in cast bullet shooting, either rifle or handgun that requires a bullet harder than air cooled Lyman No. 2 alloy.

I never water drop anything and use just two alloys for everything.

1. Air cooled wheel weight with 1% tin.

2. Air cooled Lyman No 2.


DITTO.

Except I never buy alloy. I mix my own from whatever I have available.

I see no need to exceed 2200 fps with a cast bullet so I have never tried.

[Char-Gar]

DITTO

I see no need to exceed 2200 fps with a cast bullet so I have never tried.

Yep to both! I don't bungee jump either.

[ShooterAZ]

I use a lot of Lyman #2, but only in rifles. For rifle hunting boolits I mix it 50/50 with pure lead and it works well for me, air cooled. I just ordered some linotype from Rotometals, but haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Maybe this weekend.

[Char-Gar]

I use a lot of Lyman #2, but only in rifles. For rifle hunting boolits I mix it 50/50 with pure lead and it works well for me, air cooled. I just ordered some linotype from Rotometals, but haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Maybe this weekend.

I am not a science guy, but Felix Robbins was and according to him linotype bullets wore barrel throats much faster than most other alloys due to the high antimony content. The antimony crystals being quite hard and did not melt and go into solution with the lead. They rode down the bore in the lead scouring as they went.

Again, I don't know enough science to say yea or nay, but this is what Felix said and I take that quite seriously.

[ShooterAZ]

This is good to know Char Gar. Thanks for posting it. Maybe I will limit this (at first anyway) to shooting through the Mosin-Nagant. This one could use a good scouring, and I don't really care much if it wears the throat because it's rough as a cob right now.

[bangerjim]

15 is hard enough for me. And when you PC everything you get even more surface hardness. PC has a hardness of from 24-42 depending on who you ask. And pretty much eliminates leading and grease lube smoke.

I shoot 9-12 + PC for subsonics and ~14 + PC for rifles and sonics.

Works for me! Every time. Save your alloys!

bangerjim

[ShooterAZ]

I don't powder coat, and more than likely ever will. I will continue mixing my alloys to suite my needs. All part of the fun.

[Larry Gibson]

Lyman #2 alloy has been with us for a long time. It is the alloy Lyman has made it's bullet moulds for a long, long time. The old Ideal company used Ideal alloy #1. #2 alloy has been around for so long because it is an excellent alloy. It cast extremely well. If all you've used is WWs then you're in for a very pleasant surprise on how much better your cast bullets will be. They will be more uniform in measurement and weight. #2 alloy is also more malleable than linotype and more durable during acceleration. Terminally #2 alloy also holds together better than linotype.

Aged and AC'd (7-10 days+) will have a BHN of 15-16. When properly WQ'd the #2 alloy bullets will have a BHN of 21 - 22. Proper oven HTing can increase the BHN to 26 - 28.

Yes, #2 alloy can be "expensive" if you buy it. However the "yikes" factor can be substantially lowered if you mix/make your own. Lyman's CBHs have the formula and I suggest the one using linotype in lieu of COWWs. Like several have mention I only use #2 alloy for special applications (high velocity being the primary one. I find a balanced alloy of 94/3/3 to do quite well for the majority of my shooting. I mix that alloy currently using range lead + lead + tin or with COWWs + tin. I also use a couple other specialty alloys for my MLs, BPC rifles and hunting bullets.

In my experience though #2 alloy is excellent and is well worth trying and adding to ones alloy inventory. That is if one is a multi faceted caster.

Larry Gibson

[rking22]

I also use the 50/50 #2 and plain lead for hunting bullets. Actually thats what I cast the most. I bought some foundry type metal and mixed up a goodly batch of #2 as a base. Mixed 50/50 it's close to the x Ray alloy I had that cast well and I used for everything till I ran out. I can still use the #2 if I chose to push the velocities if that desire ever returns :)

[oldfart1956]

Bought a package deal and ended up with approx. 750lbs. of Lyman #2 some time back. :) I'm shootin' it in everything and it works dandy. I dig it back out of the berms&backstops...melt it back down and shoot it again. Casts beautiful boolits. A word of warning...if you waterdrop you want to size right now. Turn off the melting pot and snatch them out of the water bucket and get busy. I air cool now but tried the water drop. Wait a day or 2 and you're gonna need a longer handle on that press/lubesizer. I also cast straight wheelweight alloy and some relatively pure (plumbing pipe) lead as well. On smelting day if it don't float it's part of the mix. I'm not a fussy guy. Audie...the Oldfart.

[bangerjim]

I don't powder coat, and more than likely ever will. I will continue mixing my alloys to suite my needs. All part of the fun.

I too mix my alloys for air cooled hardness needed.

I PC not for any hardness gain, but to mimimize/eliminate any grease/smoke/leading in my barrels. Barrels are clean with one patch after hundreds of rounds of PC.

Definitely worth your time in my book.

banger