Jonathan Browning Mountain rifle

[bigted]

I have lusted after one of these since they came out. so when I found one on GB I bid on it and surprise ... I won it. as memory serves ... I believe that the big fanfare when it came out was that it was a direct image of a Sam Hawkins rifle. I know they stayed outta my reach till recently price wise.

now before it arrives ... id like some insight as to anyone's experience with them ... good, bad or indifferent?

I have gotten a membership at the local rifle and pistol club so this new purchase should be bellowing smoke there soon I am hoping.

it will need a mainspring and a couple barrel wedges ... anybody have suggestions on where to look for these parts?

thanks in advance for the tips and insight on these rifles.

[mooman76]

Try Track of the Wolf or cainsoutdoors or dixiegunworks.

[doc1876]

If you ate adventurous, you can make barrel wedges. They aren't that hard. We have some smiths on here if you can't find a spring.

[slumlord44]

I have also been wanting one of these for some time. I was also watching the one you bought. Almost bid on it. You got a good deal on it. The barrel wedges should not be hard to make if you are handy. If worse comes to worse a good gunsmith should be able to make the mainspring if you need one. Could just be dirty or need an adjustment. You should end up with a cheap rifle. They are pretty much the ultimate in modern day factory percussion guns. I am sort of torn between the Browning and a CVA Mountain Rifle in .54 or .58 for my next front loader. I have mostly CVA so far and have found them to be great shooters at bargain prices although the prices keep going up. Congratulations!

[doc1876]

From most of what I have read, you might try waksupi, he seems to have s great deal of ml experience.

[bigted]

thanks all. I appreciate all the comments and hope they keep coming. I will post photo's when it is in my hands.

[waksupi]

I believe this is the rifle that John Baird and Ed Kennedy got Jim Bridger's original Hawken out of the state museum, and did extensive measurements.

[bigted]

Waksupi ... looking at images of the rifle on the net [Bridger's] the Jonathan Browning look very similar except for the trigger ... browning has a single and the photo's of Bridger's rifle have set triggers ... also the barrel length is maybe longer on the original Hawkin ... otherwise they resemble each other very well it seems.

thanks for the info ... I had no idea which they copied but sure nough looks to be your rite on the stick here.

hey by the way ... you know where I could land a main spring for the lock if needed? was advertised as needing one but I will tear into it upon its arrival. I will make/modify wedges myself with some from TOW.

[waksupi]

Waksupi ... looking at images of the rifle on the net [Bridger's] the Jonathan Browning look very similar except for the trigger ... browning has a single and the photo's of Bridger's rifle have set triggers ... also the barrel length is maybe longer on the original Hawkin ... otherwise they resemble each other very well it seems.

thanks for the info ... I had no idea which they copied but sure nough looks to be your rite on the stick here.

hey by the way ... you know where I could land a main spring for the lock if needed? was advertised as needing one but I will tear into it upon its arrival. I will make/modify wedges myself with some from TOW.

I'm not sure, I think Uberti actually made the rifles. That may help in a search. If you have a Track of the Wolf catalog, do a side by side comparison, or call Dave there at the shop, and tell him what you are looking for.

[fouronesix]

I think Western Arms USA copied, very closely, one of the original Hawken rifles and had Uberti build them…. the result was the Santa Fe Hawken.

I don't know what Browning used as a model for the Jonathan Browning Mtn Rifle because there are a bunch of obvious differences from original Hawken rifles- at least the originals I've seen or photos of originals I've seen. Same holds true for the Ithaca version.

Green River also did a copy of the Hawken.

But one thing for certain, for non-custom production Hawken rifles, the Browning, Ithaca and Green River rifles are a lot closer to a real Hawken than the T/C "Hawken" and all other similar ones called "Hawken".

For what it's worth, the Santa Fe Hawken by Uberti is a very close copy of a real Hawken.

[starmac]

Awe man, next you guys are prolly tell me my genuine cabellas hawken is some poorly executed repro hawken wannabe. lol

[bigted]

until I get the rifle in my hands for a close inspection ... and going by the pictures of Bridger's S. Hawken ... the Browning does not look that far off from that particular rifle built by the Hawken brothers in St Loo.

any rate I am tickled to be getting it and look forward to shooting the sweety and finding what it likes to digest.

[TreeKiller]

Just be aware if it has the rounded brass butt plate it will eat your shoulder with a heavy charge. I shot 1 twice and it was enough for me.

[slumlord44]

Just be aware if it has the rounded brass butt plate it will eat your shoulder with a heavy charge. I shot 1 twice and it was enough for me.
My CVA "Hawken" .54 gets unpleasant with heavy loads. M

[starmac]

The curved buttplate on my 54 doesn't bother me. Now that said if I load her up and shoot a heavy conical, it will smack my cheek more than enough to get uncomfortable.

[bigted]

Just be aware if it has the rounded brass butt plate it will eat your shoulder with a heavy charge. I shot 1 twice and it was enough for me.


those curved crescent butt plates are ok for what was used with in the rifles that had em ... meaning that the shooters rarely used charges that went much heavier then 80 or 90 grains and then they pushed round ball's with these charges.

the heavy charges and heavy mini balls or boolits were in genuine military rifles and they did not sport the fancy crescent plate ... rather the "shotgun" type or the modified shotgun called the "military" plate which handled the heavy charges behind those terrible elongated boolits.

I learned on a kickin hummer how to "shoulder" a crescent ... rather "upper arm" it ... on a lite weight 45-120 winchester shooting 120 to 135 grain charges of 2F behind the Lyman 457125 500 grain round nose. now that hummer kicked and when I got told how to hold it ... it were still heavy but didn't gouge my arm up like before.

I like from 60 to 90 grain charges in my ball shooters. easy on the body as well as on the rifles. it is accurate and doesn't kill my bank account when I go for a shooting spree.

[dualsport]

I'm happy for you. Good score! Pictures please.

[bigted]

120160120161120162120163120164


so these are borrowed from the GB pictures where I won this bid. these are not my photo's so hope it be ok to post em here from my saved photo's in my computer.

[dualsport]

Beautiful.

[Beerd]

so these are borrowed from the GB pictures where I won this bid. these are not my photo's so hope it be ok to post em here from my saved photo's in my computer.

nope, it's not OK.:kidding:

makes too many of us drool.
..

[slimmpd]

I got a fifty and a fifty four. I know where a forty five is but the old boy won't deal. He's had it for years and knows what he has. You will really enjoy this rifle. Killed several deer with the .50 but my .54 shoots the best. Dad bought both in 79 or 80, the 50 likes 90 gr of goex, 495 speer ball and tight ticking lubed with crisco.
The 54, .535, ticking, crisco and 110 of goex. I've shot the 54 in some matches but that load kicks pretty good to have to shoot it 30 to 45 times for a match.
I got some goex cartridge I'm going to try for some lighter loads.
Good luck with it. They are some nice rifles.

[dondiego]

Saw 2 of these rifles for sale at the Cabela's Gun Library in Dundee, MI yesterday. One with steel hardware and one with brass.

[slumlord44]

Bought a .45 as new in the box on Gubroker last week. Came in today. Don't think it has ever been fired. This one has the browned hardware. It will be shot. There is a minor issue with the browned finish on the end of the muzzle. Tried Dixie Gunworks browning and Birchwood Cassey's browning and neither come close. Any suggestions? Still looking for a .54. It is my understanding that the browned hardware guns are rarer and more desirable. Any opinions? Personally like the looks better.

[waksupi]

Bought a .45 as new in the box on Gubroker last week. Came in today. Don't think it has ever been fired. This one has the browned hardware. It will be shot. There is a minor issue with the browned finish on the end of the muzzle. Tried Dixie Gunworks browning and Birchwood Cassey's browning and neither come close. Any suggestions? Still looking for a .54. It is my understanding that the browned hardware guns are rarer and more desirable. Any opinions? Personally like the looks better.

If it is the muzzle end, it is not uncommon for the browning to be worn away, and possibly never browned originally. If you shoot a lot, it will most likely be gone by the end of a season of shooting anyway.

[KCSO]

I just make my wedges from Brownell's spring stock. Take the closest size and heat the end to red heat and use a ball peen to spread the top, then cut off to length and file the top smoth and round and then file the shank to an exact fit for the key way. The whole job wil take less than an hour and there is no need to harden the pats when you are done.

Supposedly the Browning was a copy of a rifle made by the Browning family and it in turn was a copy of the Hawken, much like the Tryon and such. The single set trigger takes some getting use to as in offhand shooting it springs away from you and there is a tendency to drop the muzzle while following the trigger. The stock and triggerguard of the BMR is just like a rifle made by Johnathan Browning Sr. in 1830 or so. By the late 30-40's Browning was in Quincy Ill. and was making revolving and slide action rifles. This is also where the single set triggers come from.

[fouronesix]

Birchwood Cassey's browning and neither come close. Any suggestions?

I too wouldn't worry about it, especially if it's on the muzzle "end". If it's on the side of the barrel and want to try "fixing" it, use the Birchwood Casey Plum Brown… but it requires heat to work right. Take a short, sample piece of mild steel similar in mass and size to the barrel and heat it lightly over a burner or with a torch, apply the browning solution. With correct heat, it should sizzle a little when applied and immediately turn dark brown underneath. Scrub with water. Repeat if necessary. Trial and error will show what works best. Then give it a go on the barrel if comfortable with the technique.

[bigted]

just got the rifle and man im impressed. I like very much.

1 inch barrel in 50 cal is a little heavy but like has been pointed out ... should dampen recoil very nicely. it looks like a 60 or 70 inch twist but have not checked it yet. the muzzle has been polished around the rifling beginning at the crown .... maybe to stop patch cutting upon loading?

nother thing I like is the extra length of pull. my long arms will be grateful for this "gift".

gotta find a main spring for it. sent a message to TOW gunsmith and he says to bundle up the lock and sent it to him for fitting. may just do that. any opinions on the probability of losing my lock in the shuffle while going to and ending up at the gunsmiths bench?

[slumlord44]

Send it insured with signature required.

[slumlord44]

Mine also seems to have been polished around the crown. That seems to be how the brownig got messed up. Part of the actual muzzle end had the browning polishd off. Finally just polished the whole end of the muzzle and it should be fine. Looks better at least.

[bigted]

I ordered wedges from TOW and also a couple springs to "fool" with and see if my backyard methods will triumph again. these dang muzzle loaders really get engrained in the soul of a man. it seems to be all I think about at work and play. except for some wabbits and squirrels when a kid ... I have never killed any table fare with one yet but plan to try to partake in Oregon's muzzleloader season next year.

I told the wife that I thought I fell into it with the BPCR guns and gat a sickness with them but I believe that these front stuffers are in a world of their own ... I love it !!! ... [smilie=s: ... :drinks:

hey ... could I get a couple pictures of the back side of the lock on your JB Mountain rifle? would like to see what im aiming for in the main spring arena ... mine is completely gone ... MIA ... thanks.

[bigted]

got it running the other day and prudently took it to the range to make smoke with it.

man what a splendid rifle. I love the way it shoots even tho I have a fairly heavy main spring that makes cocking a pain but I will slim that down to lessen the spring a bit.

she hits where I pointed at 35 yards ...[I know huh? what a LOOOOONG range shoot]... the rifling are nice n deep as well as being a 60 or 66 inch twist ... this along with the smooth entry into the bore ... this rifle is just a pleasure to load and shoot.

I wound up de-breaching it to get that breech plug clean for sure. glad I unscrewed it as there were crud in there at the flat "bottom" of the breech flat that I cleaned out very well. also a slight burr on the barrel that I polished off at the beginning of the rifling. the threads were good so I wrapped silicone tape around the plug and re-installed it and indexing it just rite.

the wedge pins worked well with just a bit of filing and polishing. all in all this is a fine rifle and im proud to own it. great shooter. what's best is that with a little messin ... I was the one to get it to go back to work. it just don't get any better then this I feel.

[slumlord44]

Glad to hear it shoots well. Expected it would. Haven't got to shoot mine yet. Not sure about the Teflon tape thing. Think I would have used Anti Seize. How hard was it to get the breach plug out? All my other muzzleloaders are CVA and they don't recommend pulling the breach plug. Been shooting them for years and no problems.

[bigted]

didn't take too much to loosen the plug. actually it came loose with just a nudge with my large crescent wrench ... thought id try it first in case I could get lucky and ...WALLA ... lucky for sure. it was pretty plugged up with gunk ... no rust tho thank goodness. soaked it in very hot soapy water for 1/2 hour then set about brushing with a brass brush and all the gunk came away to leave a nice shiny breech plug inside and out.

before I did the cleaning I couldn't get a musket cap to move a feather out the muzzle. now with a regular 11 cap it scoots leafs and light stuff around with just the ignition of the cap. now she shoots without the slightest hesitation. very fast lock time and certain ignition every time.

as for the Teflon tape ... the threads were not indexed to line up with the barrel so I just used the tape for the mean time till I can get an aluminum crush ring built to help index the plug.

boy what a nice shooter tho. this rifle has the length of pull that fits me without the usual aid of slipping on a leather laceup pad for length of pull. first rifle to fit me for a very long time. I really do like the single set trigger a bunch better then I thought at first. also I like the weight up front and shooting 90 grains of GOEX 2F is like a .22 almost behind the patched round ball. 60 grains behind the ball is just too much fun. gonna go out and try it at 50 and 75 as well as 100 yards to see if she will keep em all inside the barn.

[dondiego]

The one with the brass furniture is still available at the Cabela's in Dundee, MI as of yesterday.

[deerslayer303]

Picked up one last Saturday in 50cal. at a gun show for a song. Missing one wedge. What a fine rifle it is. A heavy beast no doubt but I like a heavy rifle. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/01/6d3c398d0c91ba12f954949c4d95fdb8.jpg

[deerslayer303]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/01/48a95f3f55d1d75ab4e2d62733a4a89f.jpg

[bigted]

nice ... congrates on getting a nice rifle. here is hoping that yours shoots every bit as good as mine does.

[dirtman45]

Hi guys. new to the forum.I picked up the .50 cal.JB Browning in brown from the Cabella's site that was mentioned above.It is now in my happy hands and resides in Central Oregon.It was not sold as unfired but still had the original factory goo out side and inside.The breach plug was bright and shiny when viewd with a bore light. No sign of reside there.A beautiful piece.I did order a factory manual from Browning.Picked up a few round balls, powder and patches and a heavy rod. and #11 caps.Ready for a trip to the range. Oh and spent a few hours scrubbing , cleaning and lubing. This is the only site I have ran across that had recent postings.

[dondiego]

That rifle looked unfired to me when I handled it. The first I had ever seen. They must have wiped off the drool?

[dirtman45]

A little of the drool was still there.It cleaned right off.It's been a long time since I have owned a front loader. Had a .40 cal Pennsylvania long rife from Dixie back in the 70's.It was an absolute hoot.Never did shoot anything other than dirt banks and such.The plan is to use this one on a White Tail special draw.Not sure I will try an Elk.

[dondiego]

It's made for elk!

[dirtman45]

Update on my JB Browning .50 cal.Browning was nice enough and made me a copy of the original manual for this. I asked about pressures for powder loads and was told that BPI did the development on this. Talked with them and was told the max load was 100gr of 2F with a .490 round ball.They had no pressure numbers.Looking at the Gun Digest book it shows the max loads of 120 gr with both 2F and Pyrodex RS with the .490 ball and .015 patch.That is quite a range. Any one have any experiences with these powders or others?

[KCSO]

Whoa there Hoss... There is no reason to use such large charges. 75 grains of FFg will drive a ball clear through a bull buffalo and kill any deer in this country. I use about 70 grains of FFFg since that is what groups best in my rifle. Don't fall into the more is better trap as most of that was hype from braggers and boasters. A good max load for bear and such, tried and proven is 90 grains of FFg and a 490 ball and this kiled black bear just as good as a 300 win mag.

[dondiego]

80 to 90 grains of gunpowder and a 0.490 ball has worked well in my 50 cal hunting rifles.

[johnson1942]

except for the modern sights the thompson hawken is a copy of a michigan guns smiths rifle from the days of roundball. alot of michigan school gunsmiths made rifles in those days just like the thompson hawken. take the modern sights off and put old style on and you got your self a michigan rifle. it may not be a hawken, but well made and shoots very good.

[doc1876]

some one posted an excellent link in this area on blackpowder pressures and velocities if you don't find it or someone doesn't post it when I get home I'll try and find it and post it for you

[doc1876]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?254401-Load-chart

[dirtman45]

Thanks for the info. I was not intending to shoot the max loads as I'm getting too old to take a bruising. I was just really curious as to what a max load might be.The manual from browning shows a range of 90/120 grain ff/fff black powder.I have been reading that the gun performs best with the 70-90 gr. ranges with .490 round balls and .015 lubed patches.So I will start just below the 70 gr and work up a bit.In my previous post I listed BPI as the developer for Browning. It was BPP ( black powder products).

[thegatman]

Sweet gun.

[waksupi]

The maximum load a ML will "handle", is very seldom the most accurate.

[fouronesix]

Update on my JB Browning .50 cal.Browning was nice enough and made me a copy of the original manual for this. I asked about pressures for powder loads and was told that BPI did the development on this. Talked with them and was told the max load was 100gr of 2F with a .490 round ball.They had no pressure numbers.Looking at the Gun Digest book it shows the max loads of 120 gr with both 2F and Pyrodex RS with the .490 ball and .015 patch.That is quite a range. Any one have any experiences with these powders or others?

The Lyman muzzleloader and blackpowder handbooks have the data for various projectiles including PRBs in 50 cal. For 50 cal FF & FFF BP PRB loads, they show a range of charges from 40 gr to 120 gr. These sources include both velocity and pressure.

As has been posted, the law of diminishing returns kicks in with BP efficiency and soft lead roundballs. So even if the gun is capable of larger charges or even charges that approach the maximum listed, there is little point in it. Another thing about soft lead roundballs is that past a certain velocity of impact and depending on type of animal and location of impact and bullet track…. penetration can decrease with impact velocity increase.

I've found with the 50 and 54 cal PRB loads, a charge in the range of 50-80 grs FF blackpowder is a reasonable place to be. Usually an accurate load can be found in that range.

[Wooly]

When I did the Rendezvous thing,I had a Western Arms Santa Fe Hawken. Excellent rifle, but it used a .520 round ball. I hope the Browning doesn't replicate the original bore size like the Western/Uberti did. What a pain locating a mold.

[Gussy]

So what's current value of the brownings?? I have 2 and I haven't shot either in 10 years.

[bigted]

all I know is that I paid 400 + shipping for mine and it needed a mainspring.

[dondiego]

They have a used one in Cabela's in Dundee and are asking $700 for it. Brass hardware. .50 cal.

[Gussy]

I have a .45 with brass mounts and a .50 with iron/silver mounts. I have other ML's but since the game dept screwed over the ML hunts in favor of bow hunters I really haven't shot anything except the Ruger OA pistol.

I mostly shoot BPCR now in Sharps or Hiwalls.

[bigted]

I have a .45 with brass mounts and a .50 with iron/silver mounts. I have other ML's but since the game dept screwed over the ML hunts in favor of bow hunters I really haven't shot anything except the Ruger OA pistol.

I mostly shoot BPCR now in Sharps or Hiwalls.

looks like to me that you may have a great down payment on a Shiloh or C Sharps with those rifles.

[Gussy]

I have to dig them out, but I think it's about time to clear some space!! A Shiloh or Hiwall??

[Johnny T.]

I realize that this thread is old, however I have some information that may be of interest to Browning Mountain Rifle owners.
Back in the middle 1980s I was doing some research on my .50 caliber Browning Mountain Rifle. After talking with representatives from Browning, they put me in touch with a manufacturing facility located in the Salt Lake City, Utah area. The gentleman I spoke with advised that all the Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifles were made in his facility, right there in Salt Lake City, and gave me a rundown of the various numbers of each type and caliber of rifle. Seems that the Browning rep gave me an un-listed number and the gentleman was interested in how I got the number. They were at that time involved in research and development in some futuristic arms for the US Military!!

[doc1876]

we resurrect old threads around here all the time, welcome to the party. I remember hearing the same thing years ago.

[Johnny T.]

I have posted reference to this thread, but have no Idea where they went. I realize that this is an old thread, but I have some information that may be of interest to owners of Johnathan Browning Mountain rifles. Back in the 1980s I was doing some research on my .50 Browning and talked with a Browning representative. He gave me the number of a manufacturing facility there in Salt Lake City, Utah. I contacted them and the gentleman I talked with advised that all of the Jonathan Browning Mountain Rifles had been made in his facility, right there in Salt lake City. He gave me lots of great information regarding the various types, finishes and calibers of the guns. He was interested to know how I had gotten his telephone number. I advised that I had gotten it from the Browning rep, and he advised that at that time they were doing research and development on various weapons for the military and that the number was supposed to be unlisted.

[koger]

These are shooters, rb or maxiball. Browning made them, did not contract them out. Only issues I heard of was the wood was salt cured to make faster drying time, some guns had bad rust under the barrels, only a few I actually know of. These rifles also have a singe set trigger. You can pull the trigger as a normal trigger, or push it forward till it clicks, then you have a light set trigger. Last one I had was corroded from stock, removed trigger and cleaned good, oiled it up, worked great.

[BartSr]

I found a stripped .50 barrel only about 3 years ago, made it into an underhammer. Takes .495 RB's and shoots fine.

Paul

[bigted]

well cant remember where we were so I will update this thread.

got a mainspring and made it fit with a nice smooth action ... got the wedges and filed em to fit fairly tight ... sanded the ramrod till it would seat in the channel just tight enough that it only walks a little with a 100 grain charge ... also filed down the front sight sides from a ball to a nice thin post in the hood affair it came to me with ... if this don't work I will install a blade front as this is what belongs there I believe.

now I been cleanin it till my arm wants to fall off as there seems to be some leading in the forward portion from the firing chamber. I really like this rifle and am going to keep foolin till I get it to shoot for me. all loads from 60 grain to 100 grain loads are comfy to shoot if I get that sharp upper point over the meat in my shooting spot ... if not ... it will remind me of my mistake in a hurry. so far the best groups have been seen with the 80 grain charges and some of the 60 grainers do well also.

powder is some GOEX cartridge I got left and then I wanna try some ol E for a change as well as getting some more 2 and 3Fg powder for all the toys.

went out today and after shooting nearly all my balls I accomplished something I have never done before in my muzzleloading since I began in the early 70's ... I dry balled my first ball in this hummer ... after pulling it and getting powder under I went ahead and shot 3 more shots and like a dingleberry ... dry balled another. so glad I were alone to miss out on the hooting and hollerin from some of my "friends". so now I feel just a bit smarter then before as I know I can pull a pure lead and patched ball from the breech where it comes to rest rite on the plug cone ... [smilie=s: ... [smilie=1: ... :rolleyes:

what fun.

[fouronesix]

Can't imagine a full sized Hawken with PRB load kicking too much. The crescent butts are more of a nuisance than a menace from recoil. For me they tend to catch on clothes when shouldering or pulling down after shooting.

Super easy, cheap and practical fix is to get a rectangular piece of thick leather. Cut for simple fit over butt. Wet it and crease it with an iron. Punch holes on upper and lower margins and lace up. The thick leather keeps its shape and forms something similar to a shotgun butt and it also protects the butt metal when sitting on the ground. Plus it's easily removed and doesn't alter the original gun.

It helps to use a "try" template out of thin cardboard for best fit before cutting the leather. Diagram is what it would look like. The short tabs at the waist simply fold over the tips of the butt when installing.

Also, various crescent covers with same basic construction. Cover on right shows one with thinner leather.

[bigted]

boy today is just like yesterday for stupids ... guess I should leave the muzzleloaders alone for awhile ... went to the range and after unloading my stuff and setting up I realized I only had brought around 12 balls ... after shooting nearly all the balls up I ran outta powder in the horn/flask and went to refill it from the can only to remember I had unloaded the can at the house and didn't replace it in my box so I were outta powder as well.

now I don't get a chance to get to the range very often as work and family keep interrupting my play time so when I go I usually stay for 4 or 5 hours at least ... not today ... 2 hours was it and then I set about coming home to work on the 54 barrel for awhile.

least I got to go for awhile and im grateful for that. I like this browning a lot and each time out with it I learn new stuff about it. as a result of yesterday I came home and made the wedges fit a bit better and still hold in place. worked on the leaded portion some more and now she feels and looks lead free. each time I examine her I look for defects I can cure/fix and as a result the rifle is really shaping up.

foronesix ... I did have a leather setup layin round so I installed it over the crescent and like all my rifles I have done this to ... she fits me better then ever. what a foolish ol man to have procrastinated this little addition till now ... cant wait to take her out again for another romp.

[BartSr]

I have lusted after one of these since they came out. so when I found one on GB I bid on it and surprise ... I won it. as memory serves ... I believe that the big fanfare when it came out was that it was a direct image of a Sam Hawkins rifle. I know they stayed outta my reach till recently price wise.

now before it arrives ... id like some insight as to anyone's experience with them ... good, bad or indifferent?

I have gotten a membership at the local rifle and pistol club so this new purchase should be bellowing smoke there soon I am hoping.

it will need a mainspring and a couple barrel wedges ... anybody have suggestions on where to look for these parts?

thanks in advance for the tips and insight on these rifles.

I have a JB barrel on an underhammer. I use a .495 roundball with ticking patch. I started with a .490 RB but shots went most everywhere.

Paul

[Maven]

"boy today is just like yesterday for stupids ... guess I should leave the muzzleloaders alone for awhile ... went to the range and after unloading my stuff and setting up I realized I only had brought around 12 balls ... after shooting nearly all the balls up I ran outta powder in the horn/flask and went to refill it from the can only to remember I had unloaded the can at the house and didn't replace it in my box so I were outta powder as well."

bigted, Don't feel too bad about that as we've all done that or something similar at one time or another. One way to cure it is to make a check list of all the things you need to take to the range (or woods walk) for loading and firing a ML, keep it on your 'puter, then print it out and keep it with your shooting stuff. I've made one for my flintlock and cap lock hunting pouches and find it has helped immensely.

[bigted]

"boy today is just like yesterday for stupids ... guess I should leave the muzzleloaders alone for awhile ... went to the range and after unloading my stuff and setting up I realized I only had brought around 12 balls ... after shooting nearly all the balls up I ran outta powder in the horn/flask and went to refill it from the can only to remember I had unloaded the can at the house and didn't replace it in my box so I were outta powder as well."

bigted, Don't feel too bad about that as we've all done that or something similar at one time or another. One way to cure it is to make a check list of all the things you need to take to the range (or woods walk) for loading and firing a ML, keep it on your 'puter, then print it out and keep it with your shooting stuff. I've made one for my flintlock and cap lock hunting pouches and find it has helped immensely.

that is just a prince of an idea. I def will do it and that will stop most of the hair pullin when I get there and look for sumptin I shoulda brought along. ... like a towel for wiping my hands on ... I did bring one the other day but didn't get to use it much what with leavin most of my stuff home ... LOL ... [smilie=s:

[Maven]

bigted, I've forgotten the towel as well! Here's a copy of one of my check lists, which I then use to equip my pouch (My wife calls it a "man bag"/ "man purse") for a woods walk or some such thing:

CHECK LIST FOR HUNTING POUCH: CAP LOCK


_____HEARING PROTECTION


_____ PATCHES


_____ ROUND BALLS


_____ CLEANING PATCHES


_____ RAG/TOWEL


_____ BORE SOLVENT/PATCH LUBE


_____ PATCH RETRIEVER


_____ POWDER MEASURE


_____SHORT STARTER


_____ SPARE JAG


_____ SPARE NIPPLE (LYMAN GPR)


_____ALLEN KEY (LYMAN GPR)


_____ CAPPER


_____ EXTRA PERCUSSION CAPS


_____ NIPPLE WRENCH & PICK


_____ FILLED POWDER HORN


_____ RANGE ROD

[bigted]

that's a good list ... mind if I borrow it and maybe add a couple things till I can par down to just what is needed? it is such a good idea and simple ... just like the things that seem to go passing rite over my head most times LOL.

[Maven]

bigted, et al., Please feel free to use and modify the list to suit your needs. Btw, I had to add the rag/towel after reading bt's earlier post.

[Dixiejack]

I did a search and found this thread. I just bought a .45 cal. JBMR in the iron/pewter config. I have been looking for one for over a year and it went on a dealer's website last night and I bought it when he opened this morning. Old John Moses must have been smiling down on me.
Powder, I'm going to start with Olde Eyensford 3F starting at 65 grs. OE 3F is what I use in my other BP rifles from .38 cal. 40-65 WCF, and 45-90 WCF. What I'm wondering what size ball and patch to use with my new find. I noticed several posters said they had the .45 cal. version of the JBMR. I would appreciate any advice other than to sell it. :smile:

[dondiego]

I don't own one but most of my .45 cal rifles shoot a 0.440 ball and a patch that you like.

[Butler Ford]

Being somewhat of a selfproclaimed expert, I can assure you that your genuine cabella's hawken it for sure one original heap of good shootin' fun...but it don't mean that I wouldn't trade mine even for one of them Gin u wine Brownings! I'd prolly throw in an exwife for boot!

BF


Awe man, next you guys are prolly tell me my genuine cabellas hawken is some poorly executed repro hawken wannabe. lol

[doc1876]

BF, you find someone that is taking ex wives in, let me know

add to list

_____ SCREW DRIVER SET

[bigted]

well just like a kid ... I got her workin and purrin so I put it up for sale in the "swappin n sellin" section. it is a nice shootin rifle but I got a hankerin for a special project to build so need funds for it.

hummer is a shootin dream now with a squeaky clean barrel, nice new mainspring, custom fit wedges and lotsa TLC for the good of the rifle. I know ill kick myself for sellin after some time goes by but this "special" project I got in the wings wont wait.

[bigted]

thought sure somebody would desire this rifle ... guess I will wait another week and then list it at a real value elsewhere.

[Dixiejack]

I am surprised that your rifle hasn't sold. somebody will come along and find it and realize the value of it.
Someone mentioned about the wedges. Just got my JBMR and the first thing I noticed was the wedge closest to the breech is very loose. What is the best way to tighten it up? I thought about taking a punch and tapping the edges of the wedge in a couple of places. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[bigted]

here is what I do and have done several times on Lyman's , TC's and now Browning's;

- take a ball peen hammer and lay the barrel on something that is very solid yet non-marring so that the barrel tenon is up.
- now gently hit the middle of the tenon hoop to tighten up the clearance for the wedge to fit into.
- re-try the wedge in the rifle and if still lose ... repeat with gentle tap's to tighten the tenon hoop up on the wedge pin.
- keep re-trying the barrel in the rifle till it fits to a satisfactory tightness. I like mine to require a tap to remove them and this keeps them from falling out and getting lost in the thick stuff.

[Dixiejack]

bigted, thanks for the info.

[waksupi]

I prefer putting a slight bend in the wedge.