Picked up some mill/lathe tools today, not sure what all are for

[orisolo]

Hi Guys,
I picked a bucket full of what looks like milling and lathe tools.
I thought they have some value but not sure what they are worth or where to sell them.
I was thinking maybe on eBay but don't really like the site, Maybe you guys can recommend another good place to sell them on.
If anyone see something he can use then let me know.
Thanks,
119230
119231
119232
119233

[Blacksmith]

Best bet is a local flea market. People don't like paying for cutting tools unless they can check the cutting edges for sharpness, wear, and dings. Drill chucks people want to check operation. Looks like quite a bit of rust also.

[orisolo]

Well I figure the rust will come off with acid and then i can tumble them in corn cobb.
there is a set of routing bits about 100pcs from small to big most look like never used. only a few have machine mark on the chuck end of them.

[Gelandangan]

First of all, soak the whole kaboodle in white vinegar overnight, scrub to remove rust, a good rinse and spray with wd 40 follow up with some light machine oil and hence increase their value.
You got a goodly bunch of goodies there, if I am the in USA, I would consider to buy them from you.
Alas it would cost a bundle to post to me.

[orisolo]

Most of them look good and fill sharp.
I just checked the chucks on ebay, Jacobs chucks at the sizes i got are fairly expensive they are going for around $150 each used, I wonder what they could cost new

[Jim Flinchbaugh]

so how much do you want for all the lathe bits, end mills, reamers and the big 90 degree angle plate in the upper right of pic 2?

[Sensai]

Well I figure the rust will come off with acid and then i can tumble them in corn cobb.
there is a set of routing bits about 100pcs from small to big most look like never used. only a few have machine mark on the chuck end of them.

Don't tumble them! At least, not together. Any carbide, or carbide tipped, cutting tools can be destroyed by striking other tools. I know it's not intuitive; but the harder the edge is, the more brittle it is, as a rule.

[bangerjim]

Most of them look good and fill sharp.
I just checked the chucks on ebay, Jacobs chucks at the sizes i got are fairly expensive they are going for around $150 each used, I wonder what they could cost new

You are comparing apples to oranges. Those chucks you have would need to be in PERFECT NEW condition AND.......ball bearing chucks with harden lined jaws.......to even approach that value. Look at standard chucks for a realistic vaue and then deduct 35-50% for dirty dinged-up used condition. Those proabaly are out of a drill press. I have picked up similar old Jacob's chucks for $10-15 at many swap meets and sales.

Most of what you have are drills and reamers normally used in a drill press. Possibly in a small lathe tailstock. Details on the pictures is not there. If any of the items are solid carbide, those are worth MUCH more if not damaged and broken on the cutting flutes and ends.

Tha 90 degree angle plate is pretty much a door stop due to the deep rust.

The saws look like from a small Skill wood saw.

The long auger bits are again wood woorking tools.

Welded carbide lathe cutters are not worth much at all.....unless they are in pristine new condition. People today mainly use indexable holders, as the old welded ones need grinding and sharpening.

I see chucking reamers like that in big tubs for $0.75-1.25 each at many swap meets. Rust-free and sharp! And NO galling (zero, zip, nada) on the shank where the chuck grips it.

The most (potentially) valuable thing you have in there is the lathe knurling tool.....if the knurls are in there and are not worn out and are sharp. Carefully clean it up. Do NOT tumble.

DO NOT tumble these! That is good for only rusty bolts and nuts......and brass cases. You will possible ruin them completely if there is anything good in there.

As suggested, a local swap meet if you are planning on selling them?

Good luck.

bangerjim

[big bore 99]

I recently gave up on my tool and die business after 25+ years. Most everything is made over the pond now. I sold off the machines and parted out all my small consumable tooling. All the small stuff I sold on ebay. I wouldn't tumble any of it. That might chip the cutters and reamers. I would just give everything a coat of oil and put the lot up on ebay. You can set the minimum bid or best offer with your minimum price not shown. I did pretty good with some of the stuff, but it depends how much time you might want to work at it.

[orisolo]

You are comparing apples to oranges. Those chucks you have would need to be in PERFECT NEW condition AND.......ball bearing chucks with harden lined jaws.......to even approach that value. Look at standard chucks for a realistic vaue and then deduct 35-50% for dirty dinged-up used condition. Those proabaly are out of a drill press. I have picked up similar old Jacob's chucks for $10-15 at many swap meets and sales.

Most of what you have are drills and reamers normally used in a drill press. Possibly in a small lathe tailstock. Details on the pictures is not there. If any of the items are solid carbide, those are worth MUCH more if not damaged and broken on the cutting flutes and ends.

Tha 90 degree angle plate is pretty much a door stop due to the deep rust.

The saws look like from a small Skill wood saw.

The long auger bits are again wood woorking tools.

Welded carbide lathe cutters are not worth much at all.....unless they are in pristine new condition. People today mainly use indexable holders, as the old welded ones need grinding and sharpening.

I see chucking reamers like that in big tubs for $0.75-1.25 each at many swap meets. Rust-free and sharp! And NO galling (zero, zip, nada) on the shank where the chuck grips it.

The most (potentially) valuable thing you have in there is the lathe knurling tool.....if the knurls are in there and are not worn out and are sharp. Carefully clean it up. Do NOT tumble.

DO NOT tumble these! That is good for only rusty bolts and nuts......and brass cases. You will possible ruin them completely if there is anything good in there.

As suggested, a local swap meet if you are planning on selling them?

Good luck.

bangerjim

Thanks for the detail info.
Im gonna clean them all from the rust with acid tomorrow.

The chucks are all Jacob ball bearing so I guess after I clean them they will sell.
Thanks Again

[orisolo]

I just found this post and found this funny.
Ways to remove rust from your kitchen items:
1.Use white vinegar
2.Try a lime and salt
3.Make a paste using baking soda
4.Try using a potato and dish soap
5.Use oxalic acid
6.Use citric acid
7. phosphoric or hydrochloric acid
8.Make a paste of hydrogen peroxide with cream of tartar (sounds yummy)
9.Electrolysis

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Rust-and-Corrosion
http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Rust-from-Metal

[bangerjim]

Thanks for the detail info.
Im gonna clean them all from the rust with acid tomorrow.

The chucks are all Jacob ball bearing so I guess after I clean them they will sell.
Thanks Again

Removing rust from knives and kitchen utencils is one thing. Machine tools with internal steel parts is a totally other beast.

Soaking those chucks in any water-based anything will get water inside and cause internal rust like crazy! Do NOT use acid or H2O-based soak. It will leave acid behind for further rust and damage!

I successfully clean rust from items by using a wire wheel on one of my bench grinders. A slower speed motor (~1700rpm) is much better and easier to use than those standard screaming 3600 RPM ones!!!!!

A wire wheel will get into the nooks and crannies with a little pressure yet wil not damage the surface or internals. Wipe off with a little laq thinner on a rag then rub with light oil to prevent further rust. Wear eye and face shield!!!!!!!

If you want to soak in something, use kerosene or paint thinner to cut the old grease inside. Then oil sufficiently with 30W straignt weight oil.

Good luck cleaning them up and selling them.

bangerjim

[ProfGAB101]

Bangerjim is spot on - unless you know the ways a machinist SAFELY removes rust from tooling - DON'T DO IT! You will just be turning the tooling into useless scrap worth $0.10 / lb

You have several different types of tooling and each has a unique fix. I would not use ANY power tools. In place of a wire brush maybe use some fine steel wool, but again if
your not sure about how it needs to be done you may be ruining its resale value. ( consider the fool who re-blues a classic antique firearm and just destroyed 90% of its collector value. )

Best bet is wipe off any excess loose rust with paper towels then very lightly spray or wipe on some WD40 to prevent further rusting.

Chances are that the only people willing to shell out good money for each item will know what it takes to bring it back into serviceable condition.

[bangerjim]

I was not talking about an angle grinde with one of those ugly knotted steel things on it. A soft wire brush wheel (preferably brass wire) at a slower speed (not a standard 3,600 rpm bench grinder) as I mentioned has remove a ton of rust from many vintage and antique tools for my collections. It will not damage the surface but, being harder than the rust and softer than the steel beneath, the wire brush easily removes the rust and leaves a nice clean surface......if rust is bad, there will be pitting....you cannot get rid of that!

If you cannot find a wire wheel, try Harbor Freight and thier small brass brushes the sell in a set. Plastic hancles. Will do a lot but need elbo grease!!!!!!!

Again.......DO NOT SOAK those chucks in anything water based!!!!!!

Let us know of your success.

banger