!!!Read This First - Post Your Questions Here!!!

[No_1]

Use this area to find answers to the most commonly ask questions. Post your suggestions for commonly ask questions that should be listed here. The answered threads are locked but the link in those threads will take you to the original unlocked thread where you can find the answers and interact with others.

!!!! Any thread not started by the team who is managing this section of the forum will be moved to the Cast Boolits section !!!!

[rking22]

Thanks, this will be very helpful. How about the "cast in a 9mm" thread?

this one
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?121607-Setting-up-for-boolits-in-a-new-9mm

hope I understood how you want o do this ??

[No_1]

This is the way to do it. What we are looking for are things in general, things that get ask over and over again like: Can I shoot lead in my glock?

[ohland]

Folks, please consider how terse you are with posts in the FAQ. Lead from batteries, very apropos, nasty mojo in the newer batteries.

How about - old times, batteries did not have much bad pixie dust, but modern manufacturing has used more bad stuff. Smelting down the plates of a new battery exposes you to x, y, z. Please go HERE for a full discussion of why new batteries are a bad source of lead.

Just a style suggestion. Give a condensed nugget of the topic, enough to give a succinct grasp of the topic, link to a knock-down, drag-out discussion for those wanting to know why... and let it go.

[btroj]

That is what we are doing. Short, sweet, to the point responses. I am adding links also so people can follow the link and get more Info.

key is to keep it easy to find an answers, no need to search thru the weeds for the answer.

[cbrick]

I agree that Bill's post on the 9mm be included as suggested in post #2 by rking22. We get a lot of questions on the 9 and that post answers most of them.

Rick

[dragon813gt]

"How do you store your molds?"

I know it's a broad answer. But this topic comes up at least once a month. All the threads have good options in them. A link to a few of them would make this one easy research.

[No_1]

If you provide a suggestion, please provide a link. There is a team that will evaluate then create the new threads, providing links will help them.

[MBTcustom]

I have a few suggestions, some of which are backed up by threads I have written (if I may be so bold).
Biggest lightbulb moment for me on this board was an answer to the question "what causes leading?" and was succinctly answered by Molly (GRHS) in this thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?116741-If-you-think-so-try-this
The question of "how do you do a pound cast?" was asked so often I promised to post a tutorial and did so here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?218414-FYI-This-is-how-I-do-a-pound-cast
If the question arises "how do you load cast boolits in a rifle?" I have written a detailed tutorial on that:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?158805-Just-a-few-tips-for-new-rifle-casters
This thread is able to answer many questions and might be very helpful for a new caster, but I don't know how the satellite question should read:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?25524-How-I-cast-bullets
and in the same spirit, this one by the old Boss:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?60445-Pretty-good-casting-article
Here's a nice article on quenching and age hardening boolits, and answers questions about "how do I make my boolits harder?"
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?17572-Quenching-aging-amp-hardness

When all is said and done though, the entire new guy orientation could almost be comprised exclusively of links to the LASC at the bottom of the forum. All of the basics are covered in that awesome site (as well as good chunk of what is known about advanced boolitry), and I still get something every time I read there. For me, this is the last word from the voice of experience, and an inordinate amount of the information there is grounded in cold hard fact. If new guys were to take even a cursory glance through the pages linked below, they would be very well prepared to ask pertinent questions in our forum.
http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm

[PbHurler]

"Is this Linotype?"

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?254482-Monotype-or-Linotype

I see alot of posts inquiring about the "type" metals: Lino, Mono, Foundry etc.

Would it be useful to have a pictorial of the types?

MaryB's straightend me out before, (Thanks Mary)

Just a thought

[Pinsnscrews]

Thank you for your time and efforts, All of you! This FAQ is going to find its way into my sig lines on other forums.

[montana_charlie]

... should be Frequently Asked Questions ...

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Another FAQ that I feel needs answering.

Why is everyone telling me I can't measure boolit diameter accurately with my dial caliper?

OR

Why is a 0-1" Micrometer the best tool to measure a boolit's diameter?

[davidheart]

Another FAQ that I feel needs answering.

Why is everyone telling me I can't measure boolit diameter accurately with my dial caliper?....

I can't?

[cbrick]

Calipers are designed, engineered and built with an accuracy of +- .001", some are worse. If you get into high enough dollar instruments they will read to .0005". Read any of the mfg.'s claims on their calipers and most all say accurate to .001". Measuring bullet diameters normally requires better precision than calipers were ever designed for & you need a micrometer.

With trying to measure inside holes such as revolver throats calipers are even worse. Simply the wrong tool for the job. Calipers have flat surfaces that cannot measure round holes accurately.

Rick

[stephen m weiss]

Mechanical calipers easily provide relative measurements to +/-.0001". Now dont try measuring 5.6798, sure you will be off. Any measurement that is close to zero is a relative measurement if the user is savy enough to keep an accurate zero on their instrument. If you can measure your bullet driving band OD and then measure the OD of a plug you made of the lands right after, at the same temperature, at about the same force level and contact stress level, you can get +/-.0001. A micrometer torque setting attempts to control some of this, but a person with good hands can do the same or better. With your hands, you can feel if the surface begins to yield, but not with a micrometer torque setting. You can also feel if the surface is crunchy or has crud on it you didn't see.

My point is not to argue, but to say that there are mechanics as to why micrometers can provide accurate readings, and why calipers can be less accurate. Those same mechanics can and do mean that in certain common situations, calipers give the better number. For surfaces that have very limited and unstable strength or stiffness, and complicated geometry, I will grab the calipers every time. I also do the measurements under 10x stereoscopic magnification to be sure of the contact condition. The OD of a large polished hard shaft? Micrometers for sure. Heck, with judicious use, you can read down to 1e-5 inch using the same care as you would an accurate caliper reading. Check the nearest size clean gage block immediately before. And check the room temperature too. 20F will cause .0002 change in a one inch reading in steel. Lead has 3 to 5 times the change that steel has.

[wayne h]

What is a boar riding boolit. Wayne h

[prs]

That would be a boolit wut ride upon the back of a male swine.

On t'other hand, a bore rider is a boolit that has a front section that is just small enough to not be significantly engraved by the rifling, yet the rearward section large enough to fill the barrel tightly enough to shoot proper.

prs

[skeettx]

Of course, it is a mold that is sitting on the back of a hog!!

But a bore riding bullet mold is a bullet mold that produces bullets that have a nose that is at or slightly over bore diameter, and a base that is slightly over groove diameter.
In this way the front of the bullet will straightly guide it down the bore.

Mike

[MT Chambers]

One benefit is that it allows you to seat bullets well out of the case and the gc does not sit down in the case below the shoulder, as most of the bullet is seated well into the rifling.

[wayne h]

Ok is a lyman 311291 considered boar riding. Wayne h

[Outpost75]

To ride a boar you just grab him by the ears, dig in your spurs and hang on!!!!!!!

[wayne h]

Ok this sou nds like fun, now back to my question. Wayne h

[45 2.1]

What is a boar riding boolit. Wayne h

boar = male swine
bore = top of lands in a barrel

A bore riding boolit has the nose section touching or engraving lightly on top of the lands in the barrel. As far as your original question, the others have taken care of that.

[skeettx]

In the 30 calibers, the Lyman 311041, 311291 or 311299 shoot very well. While the 311041 and 311291 are not "bore rider" or "tapered" bullets, or any other trick shape, they shoot well and sometimes wonderfully in 30 caliber rifles, and have done so for about a hundred years.

from
http://www.lasc.us/brennan_2-0_moldselectiondesign.htm

[wayne h]

Thanks for your to the point answer as i was looking for a bore riding lyman mold number. Now to find a 311299 mold

[Bullwolf]

How do you "Beagle a Mould"?

The answer is on castpics.net

http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/MoldMods/BDE.pdf

PDF of the original "how to beagle a mould" Mould Enlargement article.

Fom John Goins, AKA Beagle.

This might make a good FAQ.


- Bullwolf

[1johnlb]

I would highly recommend slugging your bore, and a NOE mold 311299 or 312299, depending on the size of your slug.

[Mr Peabody]

when I click on the manage attachments button the browse doesn't show up for me to choose a picture, why?

[CastingFool]

It may be because the dialog box to insert image is set "from URL" (at the top of the box) Just click on "from computer", then the browse button should show.

[Mr Peabody]

It may be because the dialog box to insert image is set "from URL" (at the top of the box) Just click on "from computer", then the browse button should show.
Your my hero today! It was set on url not from my computer. Thanks for the help, Bert

[JSnover]

"What The Flux?" How about this thread for the FAQ section: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?42893-The-scientific-aspect-of-fluxing

[9.3X62AL]

In the 30 calibers, the Lyman 311041, 311291 or 311299 shoot very well. While the 311041 and 311291 are not "bore rider" or "tapered" bullets, or any other trick shape, they shoot well and sometimes wonderfully in 30 caliber rifles, and have done so for about a hundred years.

from
http://www.lasc.us/brennan_2-0_moldselectiondesign.htm



Not my only point of question for Mr. Brennan.......if Lyman #311291 is NOT a bore rider design, how would you classify it?

[swheeler]

I think 311041-291-299 are all bore riders, they all have nose sections of .300-.301. So I too question JB's statement?

[Savage99]

Hi
I don't do many posts because I am usually able to find answers to my questions.
However, I have not found a way to print partial threads and parts of the LASC references.
I don't want to print the entire page/s as it has stuff I don't want to print out and put on the wall.
I only want part of the LASC info and parts of the answers to the original question/thread.
For example. A question is asked, then someone replies in a very informative way, the other posts
are "good one", "Thanks for the info" and so on. I only want to print the informative part.
So, how do I do that? Thanks in advance.
P.S. I don't know if this is the right area for this question but I had to put it somewhere.

[62chevy]

The only way I know how to do it is with copy and paste. Highlight what you want to copy and press Ctrl and c at the same time. Open a word processor and past it there. could be other ways too.

[Savage99]

62chevy
thanks. I tried that before and it didn't work, I had unusable garbage on the page.
I tried it again and this time it worked, how 'bout that, computers. I highlighted what I wanted then just did "copy",
minimized the page, then I opened "word" and then pasted it. I didn't do the CTRL C though.
Computers still baffle me, at times, after 40 + years in the technical field.

[62chevy]

:bigsmyl2:

[Knarley]

What is the Paul Jones method of casting?

[vmathias]

I have been reading up on Powder Coating Boolits as opposed to Lubing them. From the research I have done it appears Powder coating would be quicker, cheaper and overall better for barrel leading and velocity. Some say with the powder coating a boolit can be run almost as fast as J word due to the coat acting like a jacket. It has also been said that Lead hardness is not as much a factor and much softer leads can be used. OPINIONS on who uses powder over lubing? Again this has been covered to death but this is more of a poll on who uses it over lube.

[Jevyod]

I'm not sure this is the right place for this. Anyway, it is very interesting you asked this question. I logged in to my account to ask basically the same question. It seems like the guys shooting HV use some kind of lube. I currently powder coat, actually I never did a traditional lube. I powder coated for my 9mm and for my 45-70. It worked great for that application. However, in my 358 Winchester I want to push cast pretty hard. It is a Mauser action and figure I can. I was thinking that using a traditional lube might make the process easier??? I have heard high praise for Felix lube. So I really do not have any answers for you, I just want to see some response to this!!

[Jevyod]

For what its worth, I did have very good success with powder coating, especially in my 45-70. I just never ran any cast over 1650 fps.

[cga]

I just started powder coating a short while ago, and haven't thrown my lube away yet. Probably won't any time soon. First results at 50 yards have been great, in three 45-70's and a "not your average" 03A3. I can shoot farther, but the snow is knee deep, and almost waist deep in places. Those pretty bullets will just have to wait for warmer weather, to stretch their legs.

[vmathias]

I'm not sure this is the right place for this. Anyway, it is very interesting you asked this question. I logged in to my account to ask basically the same question. It seems like the guys shooting HV use some kind of lube. I currently powder coat, actually I never did a traditional lube. I powder coated for my 9mm and for my 45-70. It worked great for that application. However, in my 358 Winchester I want to push cast pretty hard. It is a Mauser action and figure I can. I was thinking that using a traditional lube might make the process easier??? I have heard high praise for Felix lube. So I really do not have any answers for you, I just want to see some response to this!!

Haha, I thought the same thing before posting as I probably should have posted this in the alternate Lube section but I figured that would be more for a "how to" than an actual poll. Oh well...:-) I'm sure someone will get agitated at the question...

[vmathias]

I'm not sure this is the right place for this. Anyway, it is very interesting you asked this question. I logged in to my account to ask basically the same question. It seems like the guys shooting HV use some kind of lube. I currently powder coat, actually I never did a traditional lube. I powder coated for my 9mm and for my 45-70. It worked great for that application. However, in my 358 Winchester I want to push cast pretty hard. It is a Mauser action and figure I can. I was thinking that using a traditional lube might make the process easier??? I have heard high praise for Felix lube. So I really do not have any answers for you, I just want to see some response to this!!

There is a guy in the Alternate lube section stating he uses industrial floor polish with great results... Hmm?

[popper]

I'm cheap. I don't use lino but I like to shoot rifle. I started with LLA, Recluse, veggie oil - no I'm not buying a lube machine. HiTek or PC works fine for me, is inexpensive, clean, low smoke, accurate, etc. I have not found it to replace a proper alloy.

[bangerjim]

I am 110% PC now. Used to be pan lube......then 45/45/10. All gone. Only PC now. And softer alloys!

I rarely push cast beyond 1600 anyway!

banger

[vmathias]

I am 110% PC now. Used to be pan lube......then 45/45/10. All gone. Only PC now. And softer alloys!

I rarely push cast beyond 1600 anyway!


banger

If I can push rifle boolits the way some say it can be done with 2 coats of powder coating I will never purchase another J word again. Kind of the point anyway. :-)

[bangerjim]

Gotta watch the hind end! PC is not a substitute for a Cu gas check. You could still get gas cutting that will go thru PC on the back end.....possibly. I just would GC anything for full rifle/sonic loads to be safe.

Even if you do apply 2 coats of PC, your sizing die will still squeeze back to the nominal diameter of the die. I only do ONE coat, either BBDT or ESPC.

banger

[Smoke4320]

I am up to 1903 fps with 308 147 HP's and 50/50/2 pc'ed and 2200 fps with 98/2.
Pc'ed lino will get me 2500 fps

[Gun-adian]

Although I haven't ditched my lubri-sizer yet, it definitely isn't getting used much.

My success with PC has been really great.......so far. I've tried the airsoft BB tumble dance and the HF and Craftsman sprayer route. Both work but tumbling is way easier and less equipment intensive.

Most of my stuff is in the 800-1600fps range. I've got a bunch of .358 Winchester loaded up for testing which should push the envelope a bit more.

Just waitin' on the time to do it.......

[bassnbuck]

John Paul Jones did his casting in a zeppelin, til the tinsel fairy came to visit. Covered the whole craft with lead. JPJ called it Led Zeppelin, [was not the best speller in the world].= Best I could do on short notice. [smilie=l:

[fatelk]

I'll bet that went over like a lead balloon!

[triggerhappy243]

like a screen submarine.

[62chevy]

I am up to 1903 fps with 308 147 HP's and 50/50/2 pc'ed and 2200 fps with 98/2.
Pc'ed lino will get me 2500 fps

I'm lost what is 50/50/2 and 98/2? Some kind of lead alloy?

[Smoke4320]

I'm lost what is 50/50/2 and 98/2? Some kind of lead alloy?
50 % pure lead 50 % clip on wheel weights and 2% Hi Speed babbit (for the copper ) yes that's more than 100% its just easier to state it that way
98/2 is 98% Clip on Wheel weights and 2% HSB

[vmathias]

50 % pure lead 50 % clip on wheel weights and 2% Hi Speed babbit (for the copper ) yes that's more than 100% its just easier to state it that way
98/2 is 98% Clip on Wheel weights and 2% HSB

This is one thing that I have read many times but will take some hands on research. Running softer lead with the Powder coat seeings the powder coat acts more like a jacket. I would imagine with a GC on your 98/2 could be run up there near the slower J words.

[Smoke4320]

I actually Stopped testing at those speeds because hunting season was approaching and I had very good accuracy there ..
with more time this spring and summer I hope to try several other powders and see how fast I can really go before accuracy fades

[62chevy]

50 % pure lead 50 % clip on wheel weights and 2% Hi Speed babbit (for the copper ) yes that's more than 100% its just easier to state it that way
98/2 is 98% Clip on Wheel weights and 2% HSB

Thanks Smoke. Was thinking something like that just not the Hi Speed Babbitt.

[Smoke4320]

62chevy
I feel fairly certain you could get close to the same speed using 2% tin. The copper just helps hold the hollow points together better. They mushroom better and don't shed the nose as easily

[slim1836]

I powder coat only for my .45 ACP, .308 Tikka, & 7.62x54R using just clip-on wheel weights. That does not mean that I have given up on lubing, I just delved into another area for a while.

I get funny looks at the gun range when the range officers inspect my ammo and I have to explain what it is.

I've had good groups at 50 & 100 yards, meaning kill shots in minute of deer and hogs, but still working on trying to get them better. I do not worry about speed, but more on accuracy. Once I settle on the best accuracy of the powder used, I'll chronograph it for record only. Then I'll probably try a different powder to try to better it.

It's a labor of love, and I'm loving it.

Slim

[nagantguy]

I'm getting great results so far with PC. Smoke4320 sells the best powder I've used. I PC for 38/374 44 mag and special and 7.62× 54r, 30-30 and 06. Have yet to for 8mmjust cause of cold weather and time. And best results so far has been with .50 cal muzzle loader, two coats of black after a kurl treatment with two cutting files and I've surpassed the accuracy I ever got with sabots or powerbelts

[oliversasha]

Or like an Iron Butterfly-----am I dating myself?

[62chevy]

62chevy
I feel fairly certain you could get close to the same speed using 2% tin. The copper just helps hold the hollow points together better. They mushroom better and don't shed the nose as easily

I don't have a Hollow Point mold yet. Read the thread about adding copper but mostly got out of it about rifle bullets. So much to learn and so little time to learn it.

[BNE]

I started playing with powder coating because I quickly learned that I hated the mess, time and then the smoke generated with wax based lubes. I ended up hand wiping every buulet after assembly. Just a pain in general.

Hi-Tek works, but I thought it was a slow process also.

So far, powder coating has worked great for me. I do not have a lot of trigger time with it, but the process (Esspecially the airsoft BB tumble method.) is much more straight forward. I have tried Smokes Flame Red and Signal Blue and I am amazed at how the colors come out after baking. I thought it was mostly for pistol rounds, but it sounds like many people are using it for rifle rounds also.

[Smoke4320]

BNE
I shoot mostly rifles .. very little pistol some 45 subguns.. most of what I shoot will be with a suppressor Full powder and subs ..
almost everything I shoot now is pc'ed except 223 and 204 ruger (they are just too small for me to deal with)
This is a pic of a 5 shot group from a Noveski 10.2" 300 Blackout and a YHM suppressor at 200 yds .. Pc'ed Milhec 312-159 HP
Pretty good if I say so myself
132047

with a little (sometimes a lot) of load development I can get MOA/near MOA from most all my rifles and Pc'ed bullets

[vmathias]

BNE
I shoot mostly rifles .. very little pistol some 45 subguns.. most of what I shoot will be with a suppressor Full powder and subs ..
almost everything I shoot now is pc'ed except 223 and 204 ruger (they are just too small for me to deal with)
This is a pic of a 5 shot group from a Noveski 10.2" 300 Blackout and a YHM suppressor at 200 yds .. Pc'ed Milhec 312-159 HP
Pretty good if I say so myself
132047

with a little (sometimes a lot) of load development I can get MOA/near MOA from most all my rifles and Pc'ed bullets

I have never tried Pan Lubing but it looks like a semi timely process. Standard Lubing isnt so bad when you get things set up. Tumble lubing with alox is just messy. I would have to say storage with Lube VS. Powder coating makes the difference. The shake and bake method of Powder coating "from what I have seen" looks pretty easy and relatively quick with no messy lubes to fuss with. Just my opinion...

[Jupiter7]

Another convert here. Ive run soft alloy PC'd up to 1800fps with 1MOA accuracy. Last alloy I used was 10lbs range scrap with 2 lino spacers and water dropped from PC oven. No fliers and consistently prints 5 shot 1" groups with weight sorting. I still use gas checks on high pressure rifle boolits. I've also had great success with every pistol round from mild to wild without gas checks. Can shoot PC'd lead in my little g29 at full house in factory barrel without a bit of leading.

[vmathias]

Another convert here. Ive run soft alloy PC'd up to 1800fps with 1MOA accuracy. Last alloy I used was 10lbs range scrap with 2 lino spacers and water dropped from PC oven. No fliers and consistently prints 5 shot 1" groups with weight sorting. I still use gas checks on high pressure rifle boolits. I've also had great success with every pistol round from mild to wild without gas checks. Can shoot PC'd lead in my little g29 at full house in factory barrel without a bit of leading.

Thanks for the info on the pistol Success with PC. I was wondering how they would perform without GC's.

[koehn,jim]

I powder coat for rifle and have found I can use more powder in the load than before. I do not think you could put powder coat over the lube if that is the question. I think you mean one process over the other and I think pc is better. there is less mess when loading, no build up in the seating die. The bullets just seem nicer.

[brtelec]

When I first started casting I had been on here for a couple of months prior. I currently cast for pistols and rifles. All my rifle bullets are GC'ed and I have never lubed a bullet. Not one. I started PC'ing immediately and have never used anything else. I do not push my cast rifle bullets over 2200 as of yet and still use jacketed bullets for long range and high velocity rifles like my 240 Weatherby or 338 Lapua. Everything else gets a beautiful coat of Smokes powder. For the range and speed I use them for I can not imagine using any other method.

[vmathias]

http://youtu.be/GEtwXmSVKjk

Here's a short vid.

[garywg]

Anyone got advice on reloading nickle plated brass (45c). I am at best a novice re loader. My straight brass reloads function just fine. I get excessive lead shavings with the nickel coated brass on bullet seating. Have cleaned reset my dies. The case mouth flares seem inconsistent. Any pointers on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

If this is in the wrong forum please advise.

[khmer6]

My experience has been the nickel plating is usually pretty thin and they reload just fine. Never took any extra steps or precaution. Boy do some of them look really shiny though

[knifemaker]

If it is shaving lead, you are not flaring the case mouth enough. Add more flare until the shaving stops. Just do not flare more then needed to seat the bullet without shaving lead. Also you should set your seating die to where it will just remove the flare when the bullet is seated and do the case mouth crimping in a later separate operation.

[Pipefitter]

Check with your calipers that all of the cases are the same length, variations here will result in different amounts of belling.

[triggeric]

Just getting back into reloading after a layoff of 40 years. I have read extensively from manuals,forums and blogs trying to get myself re-educated on powders,bullets and equipment changes. At this point I have an alloy question I haven't been able to answer just from reading. I have some lead with a bhn of 8.5-9.0. I also have some pure tin and some roto metal 30% alloy. I am trying to figure out how much of the alloy and tin to add to my soft alloy to get it to around 16bhn. I was hoping that someone might have an idea of what my soft lead has in it to bring it from 5bhn to 8.5-9.0. Pure tin? Tin and antimony? Any ideas on the subject would be appreciated and might save me a lot of experimental pours. Thanks in advance for any responses.

[JSnover]

Tin doesn't do much for hardness unless you add way too much. Adding a bit of antimony should work, or you could water quench, maybe both.

[JSnover]

There was a great thread on this topic in the 'Lead and lead alloys' section regarding binary vs. tertiary alloys (2 elements vs. 3 elements).

[triggeric]

Hi JS...Actually what I was trying to figure out is what was added to my soft alloy to raise it from 5.0 bhn to 8.5-9.0. My source for the soft alloy just called it bullet lead and didn't specify what was added to the lead and I have no way to contact the source. Your reference to the alloy link is appreciated and I am going to check it out now,thanks

[62chevy]

Also while your are in that section take a look at the alloy calculator, download it too. best little device there is for figuring out what is needed.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?105952-Lead-alloy-calculators

[gondwana]

Check that cases are all the same length, if not trim to make consistent.

Cases of differing lengths will not have a consistent flare.

If they are Virgin cases, did you chamfer & debur first?

[Dave C.]

You can get good results with nickle platted brass. But you will pay more for it and it will not last as long as unplated. It is harder on size dies.
Use what you got but if you buy more brass go for the unplated for the best value.

Dave C.

[trapper9260]

Also when you flaring your case take a boolit that you have and see if you have the base fit ok is one way to see if you have enough flaring on the case.Also trimming these case will also do a job on your trimmer if you do not have a carbide cutter on your trimmer.It is best to use carbide dies to do these cases also other wise you will do a job on your dies for deprime and size.I found out the hard way some time ago and end up getting some carbide dies and problem taken care of.it dose not matter what cartiage it is for nickle will be the same on all.

[gondwana]

I cast my own, lube size & use gas checks where required. I looked at trying pc but does it really offer a labor and time saving compared to lubing?

[gondwana]

+1 that!

[gondwana]

You can get good results with nickle platted brass. But you will pay more for it and it will not last as long as unplated. It is harder on size dies.
Use what you got but if you buy more brass go for the unplated for the best value.

Dave C.

Dave C is spot on correct here. I have noticed more nickel plated brass in the stores in recent times but I keep away from it as Dave C & trapper9260 are suggesting. It is harder on fl sizers and primer seating can also be more of a challenge, especially in a progressive press.

[brtelec]

First if I were out to cut labor or time I would not cast and probably would not reload. The big advantage of PCing for me is the ability to push my magnum pistol bullets to the speeds I was pushing jacketed to with out the leading problem. No waxy mess. I did not have to buy a second barrel for my Glocks. Lastly, my wife loves having pink 9mm ammo.

[waynem34]

I like the nickle for my leather belts with the loops they don't turn that nasty green color like brass will sometimes. Great advice above.

[deadwood pete]

Being new and not very computer techy I could use some help navigating this site. Any help will be most appreciated.
deadwood pete

[waksupi]

You need to be a bit more specific!

[badbob454]

click on the cast boolits sign on the left top of the page , and scroll down to what you want to read about
.

[Omega]

I click on "unread posts" on the upper right corner by my name and browse the posts that interest me. The custom google search bar is quite handy too if looking for specifics.

[62chevy]

Have a 10 year old give you a hand. Grandkids are good for more than just spoiling and handing back.

[45cal.scott]

Finally finished a boolit trap, so i could get some more feedback on my current unique powder loads. I've been shooting 230gr rn (cast from wheel weights) in front of 7.8gr of unique powder lite by cci large pistol primers.

I don't own a chronograph yet, but i did get some interesting visual data

These were shot at 25yds through 1/2 inch plywood into a 1/4 plate of steel and collected at the bottom of trap. Bases were cupped, but other than that

[DCM]

What type of feedback are you looking for?
If terminal boolit-sticks try newspaper soaked overnight stacked on edge, 20" of soaked newspaper should do for round nose pistol, may need more for flatpoint.
Member Depoloni can give Way better info on this than I can as he has done tons of tests with it.

There is no perfect medium for boolit testing but the wet news is certainly in My price range and can be easily found localy.

I use rubber mulch in a 5 gal bucket with a plastic lid laid on its' side if I want to recover boolits, Most are Relatively undamaged and can easily be evaluated for rifling engraving etc. then recycled. :)

[45cal.scott]

Was just wondering if cupping was common. Just started casting 45lc
Barrel leading didnt seam to be a prblm

[45cal.scott]

Guess ill recover some undamaged boolits tomorrow. Thanks for tips

[41mag]

I had a similar question when I started out as well. Here is the post if you want to read some of the replies I got,
Concave Bases on Recovered Boolits... (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?155716-Concave-Bases-on-Recovered-Boolits&highlight=)

The alloy I used is pretty similar to straight WW as well.

[Dan Cash]

Cupping is normal, witness it even in brass jacketed bullets. Gas checks or jackets reduce the effect as does very hard alloy.

[45cal.scott]

Thanks for the help. Think i finish off that mix today, something to do

[w5pv]

I think I have read where the cupping helps to seal the hot gasses and prevent leading.

[leebuilder]

Not sure what goes on, but figure the cupping effect would swage to the full diameter of the bore. Preventing leading and increasing the sealing effect of the gas check.
hoping to recover some boolits and GCs when the snow melts.
Here is a pic of some already recovered. An "inny and an "outy".
134618

[2manyguns]

how much harder is a cast bullet dropped in water from the mold than one allowed to cool naturely ,I don't have or have use of the testing equipment needed , I am currently making 429421 keith style pills out of straight ww the bullets come out of the mold at 257 gn thx in advance

[pappy4]

From my understanding they are not any harder. The wq boolits just reach the hardness level when you quench them as opposed to air cooled that harden over time.

[2manyguns]

thx for the reply do you have a way to determine the brunell hardness without the test equipment, possably by the weight of the bullet comeing out of the mold ????

[pappy4]

Sorry but not that i know.

[62chevy]

thx for the reply do you have a way to determine the brunell hardness without the test equipment, possably by the weight of the bullet comeing out of the mold ????

Try this thread and although it will never replace a hardness tester it will help. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?75455-Testing-hardness-with-pencils

[big bore 99]

I wanted to kill a few primers so filled the case (45-70) with WD-40 and let them sit overnight. I tested one out in a vise, hitting the primer with a center punch, and darned if they all fired like that. These were CCI standard lrp's. Boy, they sure do make them good.

[JSnover]

Yeah, they're tougher than we think. Short of smashing or burning I don't know of a reliable method. Maybe you could melt the priming compound out with a solvent.

[dg31872]

Conventional wisdom says no oil on the primers. I would have thought WD-40 would be certain primer death.

[dale2242]

Primers are better than we may expect.
Hitting them with a center punch seems like a bad idea to me.
Let me recommend you put them in your gun and fire them.....dale

[big bore 99]

Was wearing safety glasses.

[Mauser48]

Why dont you just de prime them? I have done it several times without any going off you just go slow.

[NavyVet1959]

Put the primer on an anvil and hit it with a hammer. Doesn't take much of a hammer swing either.

[MBTcustom]

You know, I've been hand loading and shooting for 20 years, and I just found my first dead primer last month.

[smokeywolf]

Put the primer on an anvil and hit it with a hammer. Doesn't take much of a hammer swing either.

Good way to get a piece of primer shrapnel in your hand or some place even more critical. Think of an unconstrained primer as a tiny little land mine.

[knifemaker]

When I was a LEO firearms instructor I recall reading of a incident where a police officer would use WD-40 to spray his revolver about once a month to protect it from rust. Only problem he left the 38 special shells in the revolver cylinder when spraying the gun. Later, after doing this 2-3 times, he got into a gun fight and had all six shells fail to fire. The WD-40 had creep between the primer and primer pocket wall and contaminated the primers when the shells were examined by lab personnel.

[NavyVet1959]

Good way to get a piece of primer shrapnel in your hand or some place even more critical. Think of an unconstrained primer as a tiny little land mine.

Understood... I'm just relaying what I've done and that it has never caused me a problem. Since the anvil was fairly low, the worst that could have probably happened would have been a piece of the primer shrapnel to have hit the legs of my jeans. The hammer face would have prevented the shrapnel from traveling upwards towards my face. The potential blast area would be limited by the face of the anvil and the face of the hammer. I dispose of primers that I have either mangled in the press or had to remove for whatever reason that way.

[kiwi]

Water is the"best" primer killer, some years ago I had 100 primed brass stored in garage that was prone to mild flooding the box of brass was on a shelf
at head hight so not in the flood water I loaded ten rounds to check the load none of them fired running the remaining cases through the rifle none of the rest of the primers fired, since then I have used water to deactivate primers with about 98% success the odd one will still fire after a couple of days in water after a week has been 100% successful,
Robert.

[leeggen]

Why not just press them back out for reuse??? You don't have to slam the deprimer hard into it, just press gently til it falls out.
CD

[big bore 99]

I actually gently tapped out a few live primers and none fired on me.

[retread]

Questions about paper patching. I have a 303 British that I just acquired. I slugs at .3155. My NOE mold drops at .3145. Has one cavity GC and one PB. The only sir die I can find close to my desired diameter is .314. I can try as cast but then I am limited to the PB. I could hone the size die to .316 but I was also considering ESPC after sizing(with GC) to increase the diameter or would paper patching be a better route to go? I have never done any paper patching but from what I have read here on the forum it seems like a fairly easy procedure. All comments appreciated.

retread

[NavyVet1959]

I actually gently tapped out a few live primers and none fired on me.

It's not whether you can remove the primers without firing them, but rather whether you trust that recovered primer enough to reuse it. I don't know if the decapping pin has damaged the anvil in the primer, so I don't reuse them. But, I figure I might as well make a bang while disposing of the primer, so I hit it with a hammer while it sits on an anvil. :)

[62chevy]

Questions about paper patching. I have a 303 British that I just acquired. I slugs at .3155. My NOE mold drops at .3145. Has one cavity GC and one PB. The only sir die I can find close to my desired diameter is .314. I can try as cast but then I am limited to the PB. I could hone the size die to .316 but I was also considering ESPC after sizing(with GC) to increase the diameter or would paper patching be a better route to go? I have never done any paper patching but from what I have read here on the forum it seems like a fairly easy procedure. All comments appreciated.

retread

Paper Patching would be much cheaper to start with and in the long term but powder coating (ESPC) is a simple set up, spray, bake, size and shoot. As you may already know there is a section dedicated to both Paper Patching and Powder Coating.

[al53moy]

Has anyone cast and shot cast bullets made from zinc wheel weights? I just cast some .44's from zinc w/w they look good weight from lyman 429244 mold runs around 154gn. lead ww run around 248gn. I ran them through lubesizer and pushed one through barrel didn't seem like any problems. I know they will be hard but for plinking they look as if they will work. Does anyone have any experience with this? If it works I'll have more than enough zinc w/ws.
Thanks

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Has anyone cast and shot cast bullets made from zinc wheel weights? I just cast some .44's from zinc w/w they look good weight from lyman 429244 mold runs around 154gn. lead ww run around 248gn. I ran them through lubesizer and pushed one through barrel didn't seem like any problems. I know they will be hard but for plinking they look as if they will work. Does anyone have any experience with this? If it works I'll have more than enough zinc w/ws.
Thanks
Our google custom search works very well.
My search turned up LOTS of good threads.
Here are some.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?74990-Has-anyone-cast-zinc-bollits&p=814403&viewfull=1#post814403

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?89772-my-new-zinc-boolit-mould

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?87103-new-casting-vibrater

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?89931-zinc-boolits-range-report

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181242-Zinc-bullets-why-harder-on-bore-than-copper

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?136800-zinc-aluminum-bullets

[Hawks Feather]

Being a newbie here, is there any listing of what the different abbreviations represent? Some I can figure out, but there are others that I don’t have a clue.

Thanks,

Jerry

[62chevy]

Being a newbie here, is there any listing of what the different abbreviations represent? Some I can figure out, but there are others that I don’t have a clue.

Thanks,

Jerry

Try this; http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?107406-Abbreviations-Acronyms-As-Used-on-This-Forum

[Hawks Feather]

62chevy,

Thanks! That is just what I need.

Jerry

[catman81056]

How do you delete pics from your "file" after using them?

[NavyVet1959]

How do you delete pics from your "file" after using them?

Depends upon what you mean by "file".

If you are talking about "attachments", there is an link under the UserCP to get there and then you click on the check box on the right side of the page and the delete button on the bottom of the page.

But do you really want to do that? If you have any posts that use those images, you will make it more difficult for someone coming later to understand what you might be referring to in the text related to that image since the image will no longer exist.

[catman81056]

I went to the miscellaneous file and clicked on the attachments button. It took me to a page that has the post's I used the pics in but it doesn't offer a delete button.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/profile.php?do=editattachments

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I went to the miscellaneous file and clicked on the attachments button. It took me to a page that has the post's I used the pics in but it doesn't offer a delete button.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/profile.php?do=editattachments
That's it.
Just click on the small square in the upper left corner to select.
then click on "delete selected" option lower left, below the list.

[catman81056]

That's the problem, when I go to that page there is no square or box to select.

[catman81056]

Also when I edit a post I can change the letters but when I click save nothing happens.

[NavyVet1959]

Also when I edit a post I can change the letters but when I click save nothing happens.

What O/S and browser are you using?

I've found a lot of web pages have problems if you are using a non-Windoze machine. Some are particularly unfriendly to touch screen systems.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Yep, sounds like device or software clash. Sorry, I can't help with that.

[62chevy]

I use Linux and Iceweasel with no problems but my wife has problems with her iPad Mini.

[Bealzybub]

Whats up with the chatroom?

[No_1]

Chat is down due to a software update which is not compatible with our software. Once we have a fix it will be back up.

[GoodAlloy]

How is the best way to delete all unwanted or unneeded pictures from the server? I have a bunch of photos of past sales that need to go away?
Thx

[NavyVet1959]

How is the best way to delete all unwanted or unneeded pictures from the server? I have a bunch of photos of past sales that need to go away?
Thx

The best way?

The best way is to store your photos on your own private site so that you have full control of them.

If you have a gmail email address, that's entirely possible via the drive.google.com option.

If you made the mistake of using forum attachments, go here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/profile.php?do=editattachments

and delete them...

EDITED: 2017.05.30 -- Google Drive does not allow you to store files and share them on other webpages anymore. Google seems to be pretty good about coming up with a system and then changing it so that you can't continue using it, just as you've migrated all your stuff over to that system. I'm firmly convinced that they believe in change, just for the sake of change.

[NavyVet1959]

Is there any way to attach a file to a PM? Finished up a powder coating project for another CB'er and can't seem to find a way to attach the spreadsheet file.

I couldn't see the option, so it might not exists because it might allow people to easily share files that might be infected. To get around this, store the phone elsewhere and send the person a link to it via the PM feature.

[6622729]

Is there a way to add a "banner" to my user name that says "NRA Member"? I'm not a life member so didn't know if there was a banner for that. I'm calling something like "Contributor Team Boolit" that pops up with my user name as a "banner". I'd like to add that I'm an NRA member to that.

[NavyVet1959]

Is there a way to add a "banner" to my user name that says "NRA Member"? I'm not a life member so didn't know if there was a banner for that. I'm calling something like "Contributor Team Boolit" that pops up with my user name as a "banner". I'd like to add that I'm an NRA member to that.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/profile.php?do=editusergroups

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Is there a way to add a "banner" to my user name that says "NRA Member"? I'm not a life member so didn't know if there was a banner for that. I'm calling something like "Contributor Team Boolit" that pops up with my user name as a "banner". I'd like to add that I'm an NRA member to that.
instructions here
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?310752-How-to-add-NRA-flag-to-username

[6622729]

instructions here
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?310752-How-to-add-NRA-flag-to-username

Perfect, thank you.

[Bob Smith]

why is it when I post I'll take it it doesn't show until approved by a moderator. I have to race to send a PM. Thanks, Bob

[NavyVet1959]

why is it when I post I'll take it it doesn't show until approved by a moderator. I have to race to send a PM. Thanks, Bob

I've never seen that, but maybe it's because you have so few posts?

[No_1]

why is it when I post I'll take it it doesn't show until approved by a moderator. I have to race to send a PM. Thanks, Bob

Hi Bob,

Please review the S&S rules located at the top of the S&S section.

Take care,
Robert

[GrumpyBear]

No. 1 why does my post count keep dropping. From 157 to 123 to 64 today ?

[No_1]

No. 1 why does my post count keep dropping. From 157 to 123 to 64 today ?

It could be because of post located in the S&S, Completed deals, or PIT - After time older post in those areas are deleted, new post in those areas do not count towards your post count.

[GrumpyBear]

Thanks. This just happened after the last update.

[Shawlerbrook]

I have also been having my post count drop by over 100. Posts in PIF and S& S never counted for me while I have been posting and I have not have had that many completed deals.



It could be because of post located in the S&S, Completed deals, or PIT - After time older post in those areas are deleted, new post in those areas do not count towards your post count.

[Sasquatch-1]

I thought it was just my old brain, but I thought my thread count was over 2000 and the last time I checked I was just above 1800. I don't think I posted over 200 messages in S&S and the pit combined unless you recently deleted the old thread with all the post of women & guns that was locked about a year or more ago. Still I don't think it would have gotten that many.

[lmfd20]

I can't see pictures. Just a graphic that says update account settings to allow third party hosting. What do I need to change?

[NavyVet1959]

I can't see pictures. Just a graphic that says update account settings to allow third party hosting. What do I need to change?

I'm not sure which post you're talking about, but it sounds like it's a post by someone who has been bitten by the latest PhotoBucket (extortion) changes. Sometimes, if you right click on the image and get the image's URL and then paste it in the address bar, you can go directly to PB's site and view the image. Many (if not *most*) people on PB are now looking for alternative sites to host their images. I double that everyone is going to go back through all their old posts and update the links though. I did it for all of my posts when Google Drive quit allowing this, but that's a lot of posts to update and most people probably don't have that sort of patience / anal-retentiveness / whatever... :)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I can't see pictures. Just a graphic that says update account settings to allow third party hosting. What do I need to change?
Sad to say, there is nothing you can do. This is a issue with Photobucket. Many members here use Photobucket to post photos, and they have changed their policy about hosting third party images.

More in this thread
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?337951-Photo-Bucket-now-charging-399-to-link

and more here
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?338144-Photobucket-just-shot-themself!

[Traffer]

That would be a boolit wut ride upon the back of a male swine.

On t'other hand, a bore rider is a boolit that has a front section that is just small enough to not be significantly engraved by the rifling, yet the rearward section large enough to fill the barrel tightly enough to shoot proper.

prs

I beg your pardon but your are incorrect. A boar rider is a PERSON who rides the backs of boars.

[lmfd20]

Thanks navy vet and Jon b. Thought it was something I didn't have set correctly.

[Messy bear]

When I access this site, Mc Afee kicks me off. It really ticks me off. Then its very hard to navigate in site as it turns sideways and you cant use back buttons ect. It says warning suspicious site! Called verizon and they had no fixes. Can't find settings or anything else to change. This is on a tablet. Frustrating! Any ideas? Thanks

[NavyVet1959]

When I access this site, Mc Afee kicks me off. It really ticks me off. Then its very hard to navigate in site as it turns sideways and you cant use back buttons ect. It says warning suspicious site! Called verizon and they had no fixes. Can't find settings or anything else to change. This is on a tablet. Frustrating! Any ideas? Thanks

Turn off the screen auto-rotate feature?

Many sites don't handle cell phones and tablets that well, especially touch screen ones.

[No_1]

The site is designed with laptops / desktop computers in mind and you accessing it site on for all (general purposes) a phone. Have you tried tap-a-talk?

Robert


When I access this site, Mc Afee kicks me off. It really ticks me off. Then its very hard to navigate in site as it turns sideways and you cant use back buttons ect. It says warning suspicious site! Called verizon and they had no fixes. Can't find settings or anything else to change. This is on a tablet. Frustrating! Any ideas? Thanks

[Messy bear]

The site is designed with laptops / desktop computers in mind and you accessing it site on for all (general purposes) a phone. Have you tried tap-a-talk?

Robert

I haven't tried tap a talk. I just try to avoid down loads and want things to just work perfectly without maintenance. I am a computer bonehead.
It disgusts me that it tells me this is a suspicios site. Do you think McAfee will refuse access with tap a talk installed?
Thanks guys!

[NavyVet1959]

I haven't tried tap a talk. I just try to avoid down loads and want things to just work perfectly without maintenance.

LMAO !!!

You need to return that phone immediately and get one similar to this:

http://www.just5.com/content/img/phones/cp10s/bestinspace/__458/cp10s_colors_1.jpg

Because... well, ya' know... those fancy flip phones could fail to flip, ya' know... :)

Or maybe just stay with a landline phone. :)

The problem with tapatalk from what I understand is that the fonts and colors in posts do not come across. As such, you might miss the intended meaning of a post and possibly take offense when none was intended.


I am a computer bonehead.
It disgusts me that it tells me this is a suspicios site. Do you think McAfee will refuse access with tap a talk installed?
Thanks guys!

I'm actually surprised that there are any anti-virus programs out there for smartphones.

[dragon813gt]

The problem with tapatalk from what I understand is that the fonts and colors in posts do not come across. As such, you might miss the intended meaning of a post and possibly take offense when none was intended.

If you need a colored font to recognize sarcasm then it's lost on you to begin w/. I have the latest Pro version. Everything seems to be working well. I don't know when text is colored so I don't know if I'm missing it. For anyone that's on a lot of forums a forum reader like Tapatalk is indispensable. Navigating forums through a browser on a phone/tablet is beyond frustrating. I realize it's personal preference. But for people that use multiple forums you rarely find them using a mobile browser.

[Messy bear]

If you need a colored font to recognize sarcasm then it's lost on you to begin w/. I have the latest Pro version. Everything seems to be working well. I don't know when text is colored so I don't know if I'm missing it. For anyone that's on a lot of forums a forum reader like Tapatalk is indispensable. Navigating forums through a browser on a phone/tablet is beyond frustrating. I realize it's personal preference. But for people that use multiple forums you rarely find them using a mobile browser.

What gets me is this the only site I regularly look at. I dont use internet very much.

[RugerFan]

If you need a colored font to recognize sarcasm then it's lost on you to begin w/. I have the latest Pro version. Everything seems to be working well. I don't know when text is colored so I don't know if I'm missing it. For anyone that's on a lot of forums a forum reader like Tapatalk is indispensable. Navigating forums through a browser on a phone/tablet is beyond frustrating. I realize it's personal preference. But for people that use multiple forums you rarely find them using a mobile browser.

Yes, I use Tapatalk as well. Much more user friendly on my iPhone than dealing with Safari.

[PhatPastor]

I'm a NRA life member how do I get that to show up in my profile below my pic?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'm a NRA life member how do I get that to show up in my profile below my pic?

there is a FAQ for that.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?310752-How-to-add-NRA-flag-to-username

[Texas by God]

I 've limited out on WTS ads this month. Can I post a WTT on the Boolit Exchange?
Thanks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[No_1]

I 've limited out on WTS ads this month. Can I post a WTT on the Boolit Exchange?
Thanks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Per the S&S rules:
"5 ads MAX – A maximum of 5 ads may be listed and/or open per month. This includes ads from previous month. You may only start a max of 5 ads per month. A month is the first day to last day of any given month on the calendar. "

[Texas by God]

Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[bbailey7821]

I just made a couple of replies and noticed that they aren't being added to my total. Am I in trouble?

[Grmps]

Posts in the pit aren't added to post count

[bbailey7821]

Posts in the pit aren't added to post count

Thanks, Grmps! Learned some'in new today. Take Care!

[bearboy1066]

I am an experienced reloader with little experience with cast bullets in rifles. I am having difficulty finding an accurate load for a Pedersoli Sharps. Have been using 538 gr commercial cast and 405 gr jacketed with 5744 .So far nothing to brag about. Would appreciate any suggestions on most accurate commercial cast bullets and any powder suggestions. I have tried varget and 4198.

[Grmps]

What is this??

https://i.imgur.com/uY1JhFl.jpg

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

that is a error message for the large banner ad.

I can currently see the banner on my computer.

[Eywflyer]

Hi Folks! I’ve been reloading for 35 yrs but am new to casting and this site. I have a large stock of pure lead in the form of large bars that need to be reduced to smaller ingots so I can start attempting to make a suitable alloy for a 50-70 Sharps I own. I started melting with a heavy gauge stainless sauce pan that worked great. One dash of saw dust to flux produced nice shiny clean lead to pour. I switched to a used cast iron Dutch oven to increase volume. I took a wire wheel to the inside to get it down to the bare cast iron and cleaned it out with brake cleaner. The problem I have now is that even after repeated fluxing, I continually get ash rising to the top. Just to be sure it was the cast iron pot and not the lead, I took a pot of clean molten lead from the SS pan and poured it into the cast iron pot and there came the ash again. I know cast iron is used all the time for this, so could it cheap cast iron? Or, do I need to put the Dutch oven in a fire pit and bake the **** out of the cast iron? Can you point me toward a thread that may address this issue? Thanks for the help,

[62chevy]

Hi Folks! I’ve been reloading for 35 yrs but am new to casting and this site. I have a large stock of pure lead in the form of large bars that need to be reduced to smaller ingots so I can start attempting to make a suitable alloy for a 50-70 Sharps I own. I started melting with a heavy gauge stainless sauce pan that worked great. One dash of saw dust to flux produced nice shiny clean lead to pour. I switched to a used cast iron Dutch oven to increase volume. I took a wire wheel to the inside to get it down to the bare cast iron and cleaned it out with brake cleaner. The problem I have now is that even after repeated fluxing, I continually get ash rising to the top. Just to be sure it was the cast iron pot and not the lead, I took a pot of clean molten lead from the SS pan and poured it into the cast iron pot and there came the ash again. I know cast iron is used all the time for this, so could it cheap cast iron? Or, do I need to put the Dutch oven in a fire pit and bake the **** out of the cast iron? Can you point me toward a thread that may address this issue? Thanks for the help,

I bought a dutch oven and never bothered removing the baked on coating they come with and it works fine for me. on the other hand i bought an RCBS 10# pot for casting and have the same problem you are describing. So now I'm thinking maybe I should put the 10# pot in the fire then put a coating on it.

[FredBuddy]

I want to put something in the auction section to benefit the site
since it was given to me, but I don't intend to use it.
Looking at the auction section doesn't seem to be the place.
Please school me.

[No_1]

I want to put something in the auction section to benefit the site
since it was given to me, but I don't intend to use it.
Looking at the auction section doesn't seem to be the place.
Please school me.

Place it in the S&S section. Clearly mark it as a site benefit auction.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

FredBuddy,
Here is an example of a recent site benefit auction that is now closed.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?346726-AUCTION-Lyman-D7-Scale-proceeds-go-to-Cast-Boolits-website&highlight=auction

[M-96 Hunter]

Cant post in swap and sell. Why ? Meet membership and post requirements. Pls explain.

[Fyrd]

OK, I have looked but my google-FU and search-FU must be weak, (my kids call me techno-Amish).

Why Boolits instead of bullets? What is the story?

Fyrd

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

OK, I have looked but my google-FU and search-FU must be weak, (my kids call me techno-Amish).

Why Boolits instead of bullets? What is the story?

Fyrd
there is a sticky in the "Our Town" section.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?40260-What-is-a-quot-Boolit-quot

[Fyrd]

there is a sticky in the "Our Town" section.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?40260-What-is-a-quot-Boolit-quot

Thanks :)

Fyrd

[JeremiahCarlson]

This is the way to do it. What we are looking for are things in general, things that get ask over and over again like: Can I shoot lead in my glock Gun?

[squidtamer]

-Where the heck are the _actual_ forum rules? I remember seeing something when I first signed up, but now I can't find it even with the search.
The stickies/faq "forum rules" doesn't actually list rules though I guess some of them are fairly easily inferred from the violation name.
I see the S&S has a rules post. Doesn't answer my questions about "can a new guy get in on group buys" though.

-is there a spot/forum to look for a casting mentor in my area? Where I work **** near everyone is a bleeding heart progressive (big10 university) it's been hard to find anyone that casts near me. Reloads, sure. I've even mentored a few younger guys.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

-Where the heck are the _actual_ forum rules?

...SNIP
On the top tool bar is Terms Of Service (T.O.S)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/cmps_index.php?page=TOS


SNIP...

"can a new guy get in on group buys"
Yes.


SNIP...

-is there a spot/forum to look for a casting mentor in my area?
I would post a request in the "Our Town" forum.

Good Luck.
Jon

[BLR Mike]

What and where is the pit?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The PIT is the two forums at the bottom of the list for forums.
If you can't see them, you don't have enough posts to qualify.

[BLR Mike]

The PIT is the two forums at the bottom of the list for forums.
If you can't see them, you don't have enough posts to qualify.
How many posts are required for access?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

offhand, I don't know

[BLR Mike]

offhand, I don't know

Ok. Thanks for your help.

[Bede]

this is the way to do it if i think the anavar is good (https://athletesphysiques.com/anavar-review-results/) any need to ask the question just do it from there any threads thank you mate

[DocWatson]

I have a question about ballistics terminology—which forum is the most appropriate in which to post it?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have a question about ballistics terminology—which forum is the most appropriate in which to post it?
It would depend on the root of the question?
If you are asking about word usage? then I'd post in "Our Town"
If you are hoping to get answers that are in reference to cast boolits, Then "Cast Boolits" is where I'd post.

[DocWatson]

It would depend on the root of the question?
If you are asking about word usage? then I'd post in "Our Town"
If you are hoping to get answers that are in reference to cast boolits, Then "Cast Boolits" is where I'd post.
Thanks ^_^; it's about word usage.

[Dieselhorses]

What's up with "gunloads.com"? Looks like a ghost town.

[Dieselhorses]

Not that important but why is it that it adds one post to my count for every 2 posts I post? Not trying to litter up the forum-posting legit questions/advice.)

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Posts in some forums don't add to your post count.

[Boolseye]

My Chrome browser is listing this site as not secure–can anyone shed a little insight on this?
-BE

[Texas by God]

What happened to LesStaley's thread"I shot a fawn" in Hunting with CB's forum? It disappeared after I posted a pic of a spike buck???? Just wondering.

[No_1]

What happened to LesStaley's thread"I shot a fawn" in Hunting with CB's forum? It disappeared after I posted a pic of a spike buck???? Just wondering.

At this moment is it on the first page of Hunting with CB's 4 down from the stickies but as soon as someone makes another post in that forum it will slide down the list.

[makeurownfun]

Brand new member. Sadly I became a contributor before I created my account lol. But I’m sure it will be handled.
Looking forward to joining some group buys for some Quality molds

[No_1]

Brand new member. Sadly I became a contributor before I created my account lol. But I’m sure it will be handled.
Looking forward to joining some group buys for some Quality molds

Fixed.

[Longcarbine]

I plan to buy some powder coating from smoke4320, my question is do I need to gas check powder coated bullets. New to reloading.

[Minerat]

I do, May be redundant but I still do it.

By the way, welcome to cast boolits. The search feature will get you all kinds of information on powder coating. To get the most out of this site if you can't find it, just ask. Someone on here will have the answer. Read, read, read the stickies that have a lot if information too.

[USA_Joe]

Where can one purchase throat reamer in 30-30 Winchester ? I have 3 lever guns in that caliber that only the newest Marlin will not feed the RCBS 30 180 FP !

[skeettx]

welcome on your first posting !!
Call these folks

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/137-chamber-reamers-nopix-

http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=throat&submit_search=

[shell70634]

Is it possible to insert a video clip directly from my computer into a post? Like posting with a photo.

Shelly

[skeettx]

NO
No, No
Nyet
Sorry

[pricedo]

This is a two week notice to tell you that your Subscription to Cast Boolits is about to expire.

Haven't signed on or posted for a while.
Encountered above message after signing in.
Is there a mandatory subscription fee now?

[John Boy]

Forum code is correct. Used logon and forum executed

[Ozark mike]

Haven't signed on or posted for a while.
Encountered above message after signing in.
Is there a mandatory subscription fee now?

Nope not to my knowledge id ask no1 whats goin on

[Der Gebirgsjager]

So, just exactly (in layman's language) what is a "server migration"?

[Ozark mike]

Server migration is a technique in which data is positioned from one server to another. The reasons behind server migration are security concerns, equipment is being replaced and many other factors.

[Minerat]

Were you perhaps a Team Boolits member and that was what was expiring?

[pricedo]

Nope.

[No_1]

Haven't signed on or posted for a while.
Encountered above message after signing in.
Is there a mandatory subscription fee now?

Not sure what that is about. You shouldn’t be receiving a notice like that unless you had previously signed up for a Team Boolits subscription.

[lcshantz@centurylink.net]

Can you size .458 to .452 and 358 to 355? would solve a lot of issues for the 350 legend and the 450 bushmaster without buying new molds? what genius it takes to build rifles that are pistol diameter.

[Ozark mike]

Can you size .458 to .452 and 358 to 355? would solve a lot of issues for the 350 legend and the 450 bushmaster without buying new molds? what genius it takes to build rifles that are pistol diameter.

Yes i dont know if ya can on a lubersizer but you can on the lee sizers but yore lube grooves will be shallower

[dddddmorgan]

Can I change my handle/name without losing everything?

Probably a strange question but I have my reasons.

[Allday]

Can anyone find primers?

[Rico1791]

I am having trouble using the shake and bake method to PC my boolits. Using Powdercoatstore.com powder. Does cold ambient temperature effect the static charge.

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[62chevy]

I am having trouble using the shake and bake method to PC my boolits. Using Powdercoatstore.com powder. Does cold ambient temperature effect the static charge.


Temp no but several other things will like humidity, type of powder coat and the container can affect the outcome. Keep in mind powder coating was made to be sprayed on with one side negative and the other positive. High gloss coatings work best with Shack and Bake.

[YungJus]

If I’m using WW’s and powder coat them do I still have to use linotype?
Ps. Just started doing this haven’t even casted my first boolit

[cobia]

I use WW only for 9's, 40sw, 45acp, 454 W GC all PC'd pushed through sizing die .

[YungJus]

What about 357 and 38 also do you push through sizing die before or after PCing

[cobia]

Just to make clear on WW., is just the clip on type.. no stick on's.. I make separate ingots and label. The 9 40 45 are air cooled, PC'd, in shake and bake in a basket I made to fit toaster oven @ 400 for 15min or there abouts and dumped on counter and separated (smack down) to separate some that still clinging together, then Pushed through sized. 300gr. 454 Casull are water quinched from mold, PC'd on tray with baking parchment, dumped in water after cooking, GC installed and then sized (Same Day as they will become very hard) use a touch imperial on fingers when run through sizer, I run them at 1600fps in a ruger, I would not hesitate on a 357 but would read up what others say with your particular weapon! I run 4 different 45acp's with my same load. I use a HTC mold from NOE, for the 45's and are slick side, (no lube grove) for PC bullits. I did get some smearing in the barrels but I ran a hundred or so. May have been they were new 1911's, I carry a light and swab with a chore boy wraped to clean out if i get barrel fouling (quick and super easy to clean), and check often.

[YungJus]

Ima be real I understood very little of that my dad is giving me his ruger sp 101 and I want to start reloading and casting for it I thought 357 would be best but now you’ve got me interested in all this customization also I did not know that I could run 45 in a ruger I was under the assumption that 38 spc and 357 mag were it

[YungJus]

I feel like this thread has opened up a world of fun

[YungJus]

I have just found that I cannot run 45 but I can run 9

[YungJus]

Update on this question I have learned what I needed about your post I understand what I must do I appreciate this page thank you for your service

[cobia]

If you look on ytube for elvis ammo, fortune cookie, full lead taco, they all are into PC stuff and can help a bunch also.. I have a couple lube sizers from old neighbors that have passed and I got into casting to try out and went straight to PC'd and have great luck, and it's cheap! My son built me a snail bullet trap an can recycle my lead so I'll virtually never run out even though I have many hundred lbs of WW. Best savings are the casull bullets by far $$.. Also roto metals has different lead alloys for sale and good articles on alloying. Learn about sizing
for your barrel also helps a bunch.. Good luck to ya!

[YungJus]

Can I cast 308 with WW and powder coating or do I need to use something else

[cobia]

I'm sure it's been done, I don't have any experience or advice on that, but I will probably do my research and get into it someday for the 308 AR platform!

[Bullthrower]

Just started casting & then reloading for my .45 acp using a RCBS mold (steel) I use a Lee Factory crimp die & noticed several of my powder coated bullets would not crimp tightly. Which caused all kinds of consternation because I thought I had my dies set perfectly. So I miked my bullets. Most were at .452 but the loose bullets several thousand smaller.
So what am I doing wrong?I use range scrap. I keep them kinda on the soft side because I’m shooting rather anemic loads 3.8 grs. of Bullseye. Is my mold two cold or hot? I use a hot plate.
Appreciate your help
Bullthrower


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[cobia]

Bullthrower Mine are all above .452 before i size, powder coat makes it almost .455 then sized through the lee sizer. the powder through bell die doesn't swage open very deep into the case so it should hold even a slightly smaller bullet but have not encountered that problem. then I crimp just enough to straighten the case and 'just' enough to fit the 4 barrels I use. Right at about .471-.472 at the edge of my cases, don't want too much crimp as to remotely slip past the inside chamber rim.. Temp on your melt might be an issue or mold temp but I haven't had that issue with straight clip on wheel weights, you might just add a few pounds if you an find some when you make ingots and try!

[cobia]

Bullthrower also without seeing your molded pills it's hard to know if you have full fill out, my molds get very hot or need to be to get all details from any imperfections you have from mold's finish, sharp crisp edges, minor scratches or milling marks, etc.. Many say that a bit of tin helps with mold fillout.. My 45 is a 6cav NOE HTC 230-.452RFN brass mold, takes many cycles to get hot enough before I get keepers.. I have meplate and seating depth issues with this bullet design which was a problem for me...

[Bullthrower]

Had a hunch I might have to add a little linotype or tin.


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[cobia]

I worked in plastic molding injection for many years and mold temp is as important as it is in this hobby. but you will find it. Be careful seating pistol bullets too deep is all I can say, as the experts say it will increase pressures... It really kinda tics me off that there is such a lack if published Info on loading data for casted handloads as well as the COL with casted pills from mold makers.. I guess that is the way it is... Took me a while to accept that and now I have something that rocks and no FTF or KB's... Been much easier in the old days when there was no internet and you just go by what grandpa says...

[Prairie Traveler]

OK...stupid question first: is this the right place to put questions about Lyman Mould block numbers?
Next stupid question: I know that Lyman numbers their mold's by bullet dia." and approx. cast weight in grs., but what do the digits on the opposite side designate? :lovebooli

[Minerat]

Ok no such thing here as a stupid question. Second probably would be better in Molds, maintenance & design but I saw your question and found this link that may answer your question about lyman mold numbers.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?403991-Found-a-webpage-with-a-plethora-of-old-and-current-Lyman-bullet-designs.

Welcome aboard.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

OK...stupid question first: is this the right place to put questions about Lyman Mould block numbers?
Next stupid question: I know that Lyman numbers their mold's by bullet dia." and approx. cast weight in grs., but what do the digits on the opposite side designate? :lovebooli
welcome to cast boolits.
Yes, the first 3 digits are boolit diameter.
No, the next 2 or 3 digits are not weight, but are a design number.
here is a great PDF reference tp Lyman mold numbers with images for reference.
http://three-peaks.net/Lyman_and_Ideal_Bullet_Molds.pdf
be sure to download it and save it, as it has disappeared in the past.
the digits on the other side are mostly meaningless.

[Tikkat3]

Why cant I reply to post in swap and sale

[skeettx]

Tikkat3
You do NOT have enough posts
Mike