Need help with a baton for a 6 cavity mould

[jptechnical]

I have a great 6 cavity 230gn round ball .452, but the sprue plate is huge and take quite a decent rap to cut the sprue. I have been chewing up dimensional lumber and am looking for something that will last a bit longer. On the flip side, however, the splintered wood chips makes a great flux to soak up impurities and float them to the surface.

Anyone recommend a hard wood or other material from a commonly available object that can be repurposed? Anyone make a jig that the mould fits in to let you open the sprue plate kind of like a bottle opener, I.e. Bring the mould under the big that grabs the plate in the right position and you twist the mould free below it?

Thanks!

JP

[theperfessor]

Hi, welcome to Castboolits.

I use a piece of hickory from a sledge hammer handle. I cut the handle into three pieces about a foot long, and haven't chewed the first one up yet. I've used it with an eight cavity Saeco and a ten cavity H&G.

That said, when I starting using Bullplate lube and paying attention to preheating and keeping the mold up to temp I found I could cut the sprue just as it set up with a gloved thumb, a technique I learned from the guys here. Now I only use the whacker when I screw up and let the mold get too cold.

You didn't mention what brand of six cavity mold you have, but if it's a Lee there should be a cam handle attached to the sprue plate and no whacker should be necessary. If its not a Lee there are folks that make replacement sprue plates that might work better for you.

But learning to control temp and timing makes most whacking unnecessary and its easier on the mold to boot.

[mdi]

I've been using a plastic faced (definitely not steel faced) mallet. Works quite well for me...

[Mk42gunner]

JP,

I used an eight ounce plastic dead blow hammer for years to open sprue plates, and never damaged any. My biggest molds without a cammed handle are four cavities.

Just be sure you don't set a hot mold on the plastic hammer, strange impressions form in your hammer then.

For the past few years I have been using gloves and just twisting the sprue plates once up to temp, like Keith describes.

Robert

[BruceB]

Also, a rawhide mallet works well.

Four ounces is TOO LIGHT.

I'd recommend the 8 oz model, or more. The plastic-faced mallet as mentioned above is also excellent. Again, get one with a bit of weight to it.... this minimizes the number of strikes needed to cut the sprue.

[AZ-JIM]

Hi, welcome to Castboolits.

I use a piece of hickory from a sledge hammer handle. I cut the handle into three pieces about a foot long, and haven't chewed the first one up yet. I've used it with an eight cavity Saeco and a ten cavity H&G.

That said, when I starting using Bullplate lube and paying attention to preheating and keeping the mold up to temp I found I could cut the sprue just as it set up with a gloved thumb, a technique I learned from the guys here. Now I only use the whacker when I screw up and let the mold get too cold.

You didn't mention what brand of six cavity mold you have, but if it's a Lee there should be a cam handle attached to the sprue plate and no whacker should be necessary. If its not a Lee there are folks that make replacement sprue plates that might work better for you.

But learning to control temp and timing makes most whacking unnecessary and its easier on the mold to boot.

+1 on the hickory baton, they last a looong time.

az-jim

[country gent]

I use an 8 ounce dead blow hammer also. I have made these for myself and a few friends. Its not hard to do and wieght can be varied as desired. materials needed 1 hammer handle I perfer small for 4-8oz hammers but next step up works also. 2 3/4" or 1" copper pipe caps, short length of same size copper tubing, you need enough to make close nipples to hold caps in Tee,. Copper tee same size as tubing and caps.m 2 pipe couplings appropriate size JB weld. Number 9 lead shot. masking tape. thin leather belting. Solder nipples ito straight thru holes on tee. solder 1 cap on one end for now. Fit handle into 90* Hole ( may have to squeeze egg shaped depending on tee and handle) Place a couple strips of masking tape ove hole inside tee to seal off. Mix JB weld according to instructions and glue handle in place allowing to cure over night. Pin handle in place after cured. It alot of room around handle small wood slivers can be fit to hold centered. Remove masking tape. Fill tee with lead shot to just under completely full it needs to be able to move. Solder cap on sealing it up. Split couplings on center with a hacksaw and work over pipe caps leaving half empty or open and solder in place. Cut leather strip 1/8"-3/16" wider than pockety and roll tight to a very snug fit in pocket. Uou can use a small hose clamp to compress this even more. WHen both are rit mix JB weld and apply even coat in pocket bottoms and sides lightly coat both leather ends also. INstall and with plugs to fit inside clamps c clamp into place tight and let cure. If you want to get real fancy after curing before removing hose clamps soak leather faces with clear laquer and let dry well. remove hose clamps and you now have a leather faced dead blow hammer.

[jptechnical]

Hi, welcome to Castboolits.

I use a piece of hickory from a sledge hammer handle. I cut the handle into three pieces about a foot long, and haven't chewed the first one up yet. I've used it with an eight cavity Saeco and a ten cavity H&G.

That said, when I starting using Bullplate lube and paying attention to preheating and keeping the mold up to temp I found I could cut the sprue just as it set up with a gloved thumb, a technique I learned from the guys here. Now I only use the whacker when I screw up and let the mold get too cold.

You didn't mention what brand of six cavity mold you have, but if it's a Lee there should be a cam handle attached to the sprue plate and no whacker should be necessary. If its not a Lee there are folks that make replacement sprue plates that might work better for you.


Hmm, never heard of that lube you speak of, I just got some mould release, I have been smoking my mould. > think it is an h&g, I don't remember for sure, it was a gun show find, $50 and had no handles, when I priced it I found it was in the few hundred dollars. It has steel tangs that I put handles on by drilling a hole in the center and banging them over the steel tang and clamping them on tight. The sprue plate has a small 2"x1" raised lip that doesn't give you much purchase. I could tell someone had been rapping in it with a metal hammer as the metal on that lip was distorted.

Funny thing is, it is by far the best mould I have ever used. I start pouring on it cold and the first pour I have 1 good bullet, second pour I have 3 good bullets and on the third the whole thing drops beautiful boolits. The hinge is at the end away from you, and the closest cavity to the operator likes to stick.

I started with Lee, and still have some, but most of my moulds are Lyman and rcbs iron, I am admittedly hard on moulds. I cast for 45acp, 454, 4570, 30-06 and now most recently I will need to find a good mould for 300blackout. I Cass 100% WW, dropped in water just so I can work fast and not damage when I drop. I tend to run hot, all of my rounds are frosted, but that is probably laziness on my part, the frost doesn't affect the end result, which is putting holes in things many yards away ; )

I have read this forums for many years, learned all I know about casting (probably 800-900lbs cast to date).

I think the mould is close to this picture http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/moKdfL0Eah3PPCExyiHr2xg.jpg

[gwpercle]

I use a hickory replacement claw hammer handle. At the hardware store they had several different shapes and sizes. I had no idea so many different types of hammers existed. They had handles for blacksmith hammers with 6 pound heads that were "stout" down to delicate tack hammer handles, should be able to find the size you need. My moulds are all single and double cavity so the claw hammer size was more than enough. I been using mine so long I can't remember how old it is.
Gary

[Blanco]

+2 on the Leather mallet.
I have a .45 HPX4 that has boolits stick a bit.
My leather mallet works better than the piece of Hickory.... But that's me YMMV

[jptechnical]

You mind posting a picture of your finished product? I am having trouble visualizing it. I love the idea!

[Dale in Louisiana]

Hie thee to Harbor Freight and buy a dead-blow mallet.

I used a hardware store hammer handle for a while, but I find the mallet a better device for the job.

If you find that you don't like the mallet, then throw it away. After all, it's Harbor Freight. If you DO like it, buy an American made version.

Dale in Louisiana

[Nueces]

I just got a pair of these: http://www.buffaloarms.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=161427&CAT=3905

Buffalo Arms Mould Mallet. Haven't tried them, but they look like the ticket.

[jptechnical]

Oh that I had a Harbor freight in Alaska ;) but I have some great ideas on what has worked for you all. Many Thanks!

[Cadillo]

I use a cylindrical piece of polycarbonate about fourteen inches long. It doesn't splinter, and just keeps on ticking after several years use.

[country gent]

You might try a dowel or hammer handle with the working end double wrapped in leather ( like a paper patched bullet 2 wraps with ends almost meeting) Get length right and glue pull tight with a couple hose clamps to cure. 1 - 1 1/2" wide should make a nice protected slightly raised area to tap.

[**oneshot**]

I cut a branch of maple off a tree that came down in a storm. Removed the bark off one end. It's been in service for a few years now.

[jptechnical]

You might try a dowel or hammer handle with the working end double wrapped in leather ( like a paper patched bullet 2 wraps with ends almost meeting) Get length right and glue pull tight with a couple hose clamps to cure. 1 - 1 1/2" wide should make a nice protected slightly raised area to tap.
Oh, that is a great idea, I have a buddy who is a leather working nut, maybe I can turn him loose on that! Thanks

[John Boy]

... but the sprue plate is huge and take quite a decent rap to cut the sprue. Your melt is not hot enough. Heat melt & mold so a 5 second pour in each cavity frosts in 5 seconds

[jptechnical]

Your melt is not hot enough. Heat melt & mold so a 5 second pour in each cavity frosts in 5 seconds
I don't think it is a matter of being too cold, I have a tendency out of laziness to run hot all the time, and often have to change out moulds to let one cool down because they are dropping soft or are leaking because the core is still liquid.

[Irascible]

You've got molten lead. Make a mould from a small juice can, stick a length of 1/2" pipe through the side and fill'er up. When it hardens cut the can off. Bingo a lead hammer heavy enough and it won't ding up your sprue plate.

[jptechnical]

You've got molten lead. Make a mould from a small juice can, stick a length of 1/2" pipe through the side and fill'er up. When it hardens cut the can off. Bingo a lead hammer heavy enough and it won't ding up your sprue plate.
You know, I was just goofing on on YouTube and found a video series on super basic casting and he had a video of a lead hammer he made. But I am to lazy to cut copper pipe fittings. So I have been pondering what kind of container to use. That is genius. I always have empty red Bull cans laying around :)

[DX250]

I use a hickory hammer handle but, I hold the wrong end and drilled a hole in the end large enough to take a full Lyman dipper full of lead to add a little heft.

[sigep1764]

I use my boolit puller for my 5 cav. It's an orange lyman inertial hammer. Works just fine.

[Tatume]

That said, when I starting using Bullplate lube and paying attention to preheating and keeping the mold up to temp I found I could cut the sprue just as it set up with a gloved thumb, a technique I learned from the guys here. Now I only use the whacker when I screw up and let the mold get too cold.

+1.

With or without the Bullplate lube, you shouldn't be beating up your mold like that. You are letting your mold and bullets get too cold. You can cut the sprue when the lead is still fairly soft. You just have to find the right time, when the bullet has completely solidified but has not yet hardened.

Also, try this. Watch the sprue, and as soon as it congeals, push the sprue plate just the tiniest bit, may 1/16" or perhaps even less. You can do this with your gloved hand or the tip of your wooden stick. This will weaken the connection between the sprue and the bullet. Wait another minute or so for the bullet underneath to solidify, and then cut the sprue. You will find that the sprue cuts very easily.