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View Full Version : What's up with my Lyman impact bullet puller?? I must be not bright.



Tallbald
10-02-2014, 11:14 PM
Getting back into reloading after 30 plus years, I knew I'd make some mistakes in seating and have a need for a bullet puller. I was correct. I ordered a Lyman kinetic puller ( the orange "Magnum" model) when I ordered my new mold and handle set. The .357 cartridges that needed to be pulled were crimped, but the slug was too deep from adjustment processes. I've never used a puller and followed the instructions to slip the cartridge down into the three piece aluminum collet, radius side up and against the cartridge rim. Inserting the cartridge and collet into the "hammer" portion and screwing the hammer's cap (which has a hole in the center of it) down onto the affair tightly, I pounded the hammer on a bench. The cap keeps loosening. Most times, the whole cartridge I guess bounces against the collet and flies out the hole of the puller cap and launches across the room! I have to keep tightening the cap but it doesn't help. I feel stupid folks. WHy the hole in the cap? To assure there's nothing against the primer? Do all pullers have a hole in the screw on cap? Is it useless to try to pull crimped slugs? Don

PS. On a whim I just finished putting several layers of masking tape over the cap hole. I put a single .357 LSWC load (crimped in place) in the aluminum collet listed for that cartridge, and screwed the cap down tight on this "Magnum Kinetic Bullet Puller". A few raps on the garage floor and tha entire cartridge was bouncing around inside the puller. The rim had stripped the collet. I'm calling the seller tomorrow to see if I can get a refund. Are all kinetic pullers this uh.....impractical for my needs? Thanks. Don.

boho
10-02-2014, 11:44 PM
I have the RCBS puller and it hasn't given me any of the trouble you're having. Defective collet? I have pulled many crimped 38's WC & SWC with a few good whacks.

Cowboy_Dan
10-02-2014, 11:54 PM
First off, if it will fit, use athe shell holder from your press instead of that stupid collet. Mine works much better that way. Mine is a Frankford Arsenal model, but I think they are all basically the same. The cap (mine also has a hole) even stopped unscrewing when I started using the shellholder.

Second, on crimped rounds, sometimes it helps to seat the bullet a bit deaper to break the crimp. Also works on laquered-in milsurp bullets.

Tallbald
10-03-2014, 12:29 AM
I'll try the shell holder trick. Sounds like a wonderful idea. Am I the only one who has experienced the things I described? If so, I really feel like a d####ss. Thanks. Don

country gent
10-03-2014, 12:38 AM
I use a big block of oak ( section of a trunk I cut to length I wanted) I set this on the floor and hammer the puller on it. The puller needs a solid oblect to hit against with as little give as possible. Next is to swing with a "limp wristed" hit so puller can get a good bounce back. I have used them and perfer collet types but sometimes it the olny way.

JonB_in_Glencoe
10-03-2014, 12:42 AM
I "think" from your wording, that you are inserting the cartridge into the aluminum collet the wrong way.

This is how I install them, the Lyman works great

118091

JonB_in_Glencoe
10-03-2014, 12:45 AM
Also, I use a dead blow hammer held in the air, and hit it with the lyman puller. Less noise, as well as less wear and tear on the bench.

Bzcraig
10-03-2014, 01:20 AM
I too use shell holders. The collets only work marginally even when used correctly. Having said that, there is no explanation for the cap unscrewing or the round coming through the hole in it.

brtelec
10-03-2014, 02:40 AM
Turn the collet over. Here is a very good link about kinetic pullers

http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/HowTo/KineticPullers.pdf

Tallbald
10-03-2014, 08:18 AM
JonB the photograph on the Lyman package shows the cartridge being inserted into the collet the exact opposite way. Here's photos of the actual package as well as the instructions on the back of the card (which refer me to the front picture also). I still happy that in following directions, when the cartridge kept flying out, the round didn't go off..... Guess I wasted my money. Don

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j420/tallbald/PA020324.jpg (http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/tallbald/media/PA020324.jpg.html)

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j420/tallbald/PA020327.jpg (http://s1084.photobucket.com/user/tallbald/media/PA020327.jpg.html)

kerreckt
10-03-2014, 08:41 AM
I have pulled many bullets with several different brands of kinetic pullers. They all have one thing in common. They must be struck sharply against a concrete floor for best results. They will not work, as well, if struck against anything that will absorb any of the shock. Also, the best technique is for your wrist to get into the action to provide the needed sharp blow. The wrist part is hard to described but it is the same technique used by carpenters to drive large framing nails before the widespread use of nail guns. Having framed more than 200 homes, I am very familiar with the technique.

44man
10-03-2014, 08:51 AM
I also use a block of oak, never on concrete, they will break. Mine has three sizes of collets, it is a Midway. The rounded part goes up because it is the cap that tightens it.
It sounds like one collet to be universal is not enough for the Lyman.

USAFrox
10-03-2014, 09:09 AM
I have pulled many bullets with several different brands of kinetic pullers. They all have one thing in common. They must be struck sharply against a concrete floor for best results. They will not work, as well, if struck against anything that will absorb any of the shock.
What he said. At first I had tried using it on my wooden workbench, but there was too much give in the wood, and it would never drive out the bullets. Then I tried on the cast iron top of my table saw, and it worked like a charm. So that's what I do - hit it on the unyielding cast iron top of my table saw. My puller is RCBS, so there's only one collet to worry about. I do find that about every two whacks I often have to tighten the cap, as it starts to loosen. So my common pattern is" WHACK WHACK (twist on cap tighter) WHACK WHACK (twist) WHACK WHACK... etc.

Tallbald
10-03-2014, 09:39 AM
Thanks everyone. I'll see if I can get a replacement. I can't use the one that stripped when inserted as the instructions told me to do. Oh. From my tool and die career days, I have a steel bench block I use that weighs over 60 pounds and measures about 11 inches square and 2 inches thick. This is my tapping surface. I also have some oak I will soon start using.Don

Post script: Problem solved. I emailed the retailer I bought the Lyman puller from and told them what was happening. They emailed me back and said to give them a call, which I did. The gracious lady said they would go ahead and send me a new puller as well as a prepaid shipping label to return the old one to them. Folks without the help of members here, I would likely have given up on the whole thing LOL. Don.

JonB_in_Glencoe
10-03-2014, 10:03 AM
JonB the photograph on the Lyman package shows the cartridge being inserted into the collet the exact opposite way. Here's photos of the actual package as well as the instructions on the back of the card (which refer me to the front picture also). I still happy that in following directions, when the cartridge kept flying out, the round didn't go off..... Guess I wasted my money. Don

Well, I'm stymied by your photo's. I don't recall seeing any instructions with mine when I bought it. What 44man said about the rounded portion going against the cap makes sense...BUT ? the lyman puller has worked well for me the way I've been using it, I've pulled hundreds of pistol 'boolits' and a few rifle boolits.

When I took the photo I posted above (last night), I did try to insert a cartridge into the lyman aluminum collet and while just handling it it wanted to slip out...that's not even inserting the colleted cartridge into the hammer.

I have never understand, til now, why so many people use a reloading 'shell holder', if they had problems like you are having with the original supplied collets. I think this warrants a email (with photos) to lyman.

To others, who say to hit the puller on a immovable object, and if the puller is hit on something that gives, it doesn't work as well ...I say to you, just try a dead blow hammer sometime, I can't really explain the physics of it, but it works just as good for me...and my reloading room is a converted upstairs bedroom, no concrete and no garage style bench, so I happy it does work well that way.
Jon

mold maker
10-03-2014, 10:08 AM
I'm still using the puller I've had for almost 50 years. It has the hex aluminum handle and is green in color. I can't read its name, as use has worn it away.
Most folks use too much muscle and too tight a grip. It's the momentum of the the bullet continuing to move, when the brass (held in the collet) is stopped and rebounds, that does the job. When you over grip the handle it doesn't allow the head to rebound, and your hand is absorbing the action needed to remove the bullet.
Swing it fast, not hard, with the wrist. Strike a solid, heavy object, and allow it to freely bounce back. I use a comfortable length of hard wood 4x4 resting on the floor and clamped to the bench leg. It hasn't damaged the puller, and offers the necessary weight to absorb the shock.

sthwestvictoria
10-03-2014, 10:39 AM
I agree about needing a good surface to whack on. End grain such as the above mentioned roundel of oak or other hardwood is best. You will not get anywhere whacking on side grain with something like a workbench.

The tip about placing the round in the press and using the seating die to push the projectile into the seating die is also excellent for breaking a crimp or seal from old verdigris with jacketed projectiles.

For cast bullets where I don't need to save the projectile I place the round in the shell-holder, run it up on the press ram, grab it with a set of crimping pliers and lower the ram, pulling the projectile out ready to be recycled.
http://www.handgunhunt.com/images/danb_img10.jpg
(not my image, borrowed from internet)

tomme boy
10-03-2014, 11:41 AM
I had a RCBS one for about 20 years before I finally broke the aluminum handle. It has to be hit onto a cement floor or you are going to be smacking it a bunch of times. One other thing I found is it has to bounce when hit. It works much better. I pulled over 500 223 rounds of the wolf steel case one day. Talk about sore hands. I just pulled about 700 7.62x39 rounds that someone gave me that had rust on the outside. The powder is still good. I replaced the RCBS one with a Midway one and it came with 3 collets. I use the medium one for everything. It is holding up fine so far.

Oh yah. The round head goes against the cap!

WallyM3
10-03-2014, 12:18 PM
The best surface on which to tap the puller I've found is a solid tile on a cement floor. I start with one smart wrap, followed by a series of staccato blows until I hear the rattle of the loose bullet. No real effort, just good positive strikes.

Powerful blows just damage the device and don't dislodge bullets. I destroyed two before doing a little research.

I'm going to experiment using a cast iron lapping plate (upside-down) with a piece of solid floor tile attached so I can place it on the bench and not need to crouch or sit on the floor for long runs.

I've done some of the nastiest, old Milsurp stuff with this technique and it works.

Give it a try and good luck.

parson48
10-03-2014, 12:38 PM
I use shell holder and strike the puller on the end grain of a thick piece of hardwood. Works fine.

I did destroy one once by hitting a concrete floor.

44man
10-03-2014, 01:18 PM
Hardwood end grain is the secret. I have heard of the plastic shattering on the concrete floor. The dead blow hammer will work.
I am not going to hit hard stuff with mine, been going strong for years and will pull anything. Nothing works as good as the inertia puller and I have all kinds from the RCBS collet to side cutters.
But one collet only will not fit all cases.

John Guedry
10-03-2014, 05:53 PM
I have one from Midway also and find I gotta' hit on concrete or it doesn't work.(for me anyway)

BDJ
10-03-2014, 06:06 PM
Lee Auto Prime shell holders a Frakford Arsenal Quick-N-Ez Impact bullet puller and a block of Walnut. Don't care much for the Frankford collets I find that the Lee shell holders work better.

nixpap
10-03-2014, 07:05 PM
Getting back into reloading after 30 plus years, I knew I'd make some mistakes in seating and have a need for a bullet puller. I was correct. I ordered a Lyman kinetic puller ( the orange "Magnum" model) when I ordered my new mold and handle set. The .357 cartridges that needed to be pulled were crimped, but the slug was too deep from adjustment processes. I've never used a puller and followed the instructions to slip the cartridge down into the three piece aluminum collet, radius side up and against the cartridge rim. Inserting the cartridge and collet into the "hammer" portion and screwing the hammer's cap (which has a hole in the center of it) down onto the affair tightly, I pounded the hammer on a bench. The cap keeps loosening. Most times, the whole cartridge I guess bounces against the collet and flies out the hole of the puller cap and launches across the room! I have to keep tightening the cap but it doesn't help. I feel stupid folks. WHy the hole in the cap? To assure there's nothing against the primer? Do all pullers have a hole in the screw on cap? Is it useless to try to pull crimped slugs? Don

PS. On a whim I just finished putting several layers of masking tape over the cap hole. I put a single .357 LSWC load (crimped in place) in the aluminum collet listed for that cartridge, and screwed the cap down tight on this "Magnum Kinetic Bullet Puller". A few raps on the garage floor and tha entire cartridge was bouncing around inside the puller. The rim had stripped the collet. I'm calling the seller tomorrow to see if I can get a refund. Are all kinetic pullers this uh.....impractical for my needs? Thanks. Don.



I cant believe the timing of your thread. This very afternoon i received the exact same puller from Midway.It is a pain in the a__.The cap was loosening up for me as well. I tighten it after every 2-3 smacks.Concrete floor seems to work best for me.That collet thingy is about the cheapest piece of junk I have ever seen. The rubber gasket that holds the thing together cant have that much of a life span either.I'm going to try the lee shell holder and the use of the pliers technique and see how that works. I wish i saved the $$ or bought some other design. But all that being said,it does work.

plainsman456
10-03-2014, 07:29 PM
I tried a 2x4 and just made splinters.
So one year while cutting fire wood i kept a 24in log from the splitter.
The most times i have to hit it 2.

That seasoned live oak is hard green and just keeps taking the hits.

nixpap
10-03-2014, 07:29 PM
As CowboyDan said, use the shell holder. Whole different animal. Works like a charm. I feel better about it now. :)

Pilgrim
10-03-2014, 08:08 PM
I think mine is a kinetico...the original version. IIRC I've replaced the collet once. I use the "back top" of my RCBS Rock Chucker as the hammering place. Easy to reach, press is guaranteed forever, and is good and solid. Don't have any idea how long I've had mine (press or kinetico). More than 20 years I suspect. Oh yeah...the curved side of the collet goes up into the screw top. FWIW Pilgrim

Bullwolf
10-03-2014, 10:35 PM
My favorites Bullet pullers have been the RCBS (for the warranty), the Frankford Arsenal, and lately the Quinetics brand Bullet puller. Had others been available in the store at the time, I could have just as easily ended up using another brand like the Lyman however.

My current model is a Quinetics Bullet Puller, much like the one Titan Reloading sells

http://quinetics.com/images/Bullet_Puller.jpg

http://www.titanreloading.com/kinetic-bullet-puller/ultimate-kinetic-bullet-puller


Occasionally I've noticed that using a shell holder with a kinetic puller can cause some minor rim damage, so I usually check one or two when I pull them that way. It's likely a fit issue, as it doesn't happens to me while using the provided collet. I also place a foam ear plug in the end, so as not to damage a pulled boolit from striking impact.

I noticed looking on the Quinetics page under the instructions tab:
REMINDER: The FLAT base of the three-jaw Chuck Assembly sits on the flat surface of the puller body. Note the rounded side is near the top of the cap.

Maybe it's different when using the Quinetics puller, but I have always arranged the chuck that way while using any kinetic puller. (unless I used a shell holder) Maybe I've been doing it wrong, but it seems to work either way. I tried a few last night both ways after reading JonB's post

http://quinetics.com/




http://quinetics.com/images/made-in-the-USA-logo.jpg


Instructions








FOR YOUR PROTECTION PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHILE USING THE BULLET PULLER





BEFORE YOU BEGIN: It’s natural to want to take the puller apart to see how it works. CAUTION: Care must be taken to see that the chuck jaw is properly placed right side up. REMINDER: The FLAT base of the three-jaw Chuck Assembly sits on the flat surface of the puller body. Note the rounded side is near the top of the cap.


http://quinetics.com/images/technic.jpg

1. Loosen cap until chuck assembly accommodates bullet casing being pulled. Insert and rotate cartridge until chuck engages cartridge cannelure or comes into solid contact with rimed cartridge.

2. Tighten Bullet Puller cap.

3. Grip handle, mainly with the thumb and forefinger, with the cap up. Rap Bullet Puller against a hard, solid, non-metallic surface. Note: Easy extraction results when the handle shaft is PARALLEL to the surface at the moment of impact with the surface. This means that the plastic head and the cartridge within are PERPENDICULAR to the surface being struck. This protects the plastic “head” against breakage along with providing the ease of bullet extraction.

4. Allow the puller to bounce off the surface. It’s the bounce that actually pulls the bullet using the basic principle of kinetic energy. Remember, it is not like driving a nail. Pull your punch to allow the Bullet Puller to recoil, providing the needed “Bouncing Action”.

5. One rap will normally remove the bullet. However, sometimes it is necessary to rap it again.
Before you do, tighten the cap to insure that the casing is secure and rap again.

6. After the bullet has been pulled just twist the cap ¼ turn and turn the puller upside down and tap the contents into a suitable container of your choice. Bullet, powder and case will drop out of the Bullet Puller chamber.



I'm a big fan of the Quinetics Bullet Puller. To be fair though, I have beat a puller to death before while pulling a large quantity of military sealed 30'06 by whacking the puller on rough concrete. After much practice, I have learned somewhat how to more correctly use a kinetic puller.

I don't hit the concrete anymore with a kinetic puller. I have seen first hand how that will slowly damage a puller, up until it breaks. The good news is even if you do this most of the stand up company brands like RCBS and Quinetics will still replace it for you for free.

I typically use a lead ingot as a striking surface (with excellent results) despite the instructions stating to: Rap Bullet Puller against a hard, solid, non-metallic surface.

Occasionally I will also use a hard wood block,which seems to almost work as well but is quite a bit louder. I have long since learned the correct amount of wrist striking "English" to get the boolit to pull on the bounce, after pulling many many boolits.




- Bullwolf

fouronesix
10-03-2014, 11:29 PM
Kinetic pullers work well. I think most are made by one or two companies, then branded or the mold is tweaked for different suppliers. You can use the 3 piece collet either hump up or hump down depending on the cartridge design or for ease of sliding a cartridge into the collet. But you do have to tighten the cap! (and keep it tight!). Those coarse plastic threads are fast and handy but they will loosen easily especially if a few granules of powder get in there. I can usually feel if the cap has loosened on the first whack. If so, I will automatically grab the cap and re-tighten hard and whack away until I see the bullet pop out.

JonB_in_Glencoe
10-04-2014, 10:07 AM
Kinetic pullers work well. I think most are made by one or two companies, then branded or the mold is tweaked for different suppliers. You can use the 3 piece collet either hump up or hump down depending on the cartridge design or for ease of sliding a cartridge into the collet. But you do have to tighten the cap! (and keep it tight!)
...snip...

I am wondering if there is a batch of 3 pc collet's that are machined incorrectly. When I install a cartridge in the way I did, when I posted the photos, the cartridge is held securely. When I install the cartridge in the 3 pc collet as the OP did, and as the posted lyman instructions say, as nearly everyone else who posted here says they use it...The cartridge is sloppy loose and I could see having problems as the OP had. I have not tried pulling a boolit with the cartridge installed in the 3 pc collet as prescribed for fear of damaging the collet. btw my lyman puller is only 1 or 2 years old.

Ricochet
10-04-2014, 10:18 AM
Wonder what folks loading things like the big .50 BMG use?

4rdwhln
10-04-2014, 10:30 AM
31 posts and no pointed out if ya put a foam earplug into the bottom of the puller it will not destroy the fancy varmint bullets when they come apart. the ones with the plastic string between them fit good enough that the powder stays on top also for easy recovery if wanted. I have a small 4 inch vise on the bench and the anvil on it works well to smack on. My RCBS version is close to 30 years old and looks it but still works fine. I also normally use the shell holders and just keep a vigilant eye out for high primers.

Foto Joe
10-04-2014, 10:45 AM
I'd like to point out that using a shell holder in a kinetic puller might not be such a grand idea. If you're pulling dummy rounds with no primers then have at it but I personally would NOT use a shell holder on a live round. Follow the link below and read the post from 2008 showing what even a 45ACP round can do when it goes off in a kinetic puller using a shell holder instead of the supplied collet.

http://www.shootersforum.com/warning-notices-recalls/50347-inertial-bullet-puller-warning.html

Wild Bill 7
10-04-2014, 10:46 AM
Wow, just blew up a midway puller I have had for at least 25 years. Pulled about 500 mil surp 30-06. Glad I bought two at that time. Was using a 4x4 block of oak, split that and used the garage floor. Will try a wooden mallet next time. A lot of great info from everyone.

dondiego
10-04-2014, 10:48 AM
The only time I ever broke one was when I hit it on concrete. The ear plug trick was mentioned in an earlier post. My collet uses a wire spring coil instead of an O-ring. Use a flick of the wrist for best results.

Pilgrim
10-04-2014, 10:58 AM
I don't use the shellholder trick (yet anyway), but my take away from the referenced piece is to check for high primers if you use the shellholder method. The problem wasn't the shellholder. However, the shellholder did help set up the accident. FWIW Pilgrim

6thtexas
10-04-2014, 04:33 PM
First off, if it will fit, use athe shell holder from your press instead of that stupid collet. Mine works much better that way. Mine is a Frankford Arsenal model, but I think they are all basically the same. The cap (mine also has a hole) even stopped unscrewing when I started using the shellholder.

Second, on crimped rounds, sometimes it helps to seat the bullet a bit deaper to break the crimp. Also works on laquered-in milsurp bullets.

This -Throw that collet as far as you can and use the shellholder.

fouronesix
10-04-2014, 06:34 PM
I am wondering if there is a batch of 3 pc collet's that are machined incorrectly. When I install a cartridge in the way I did, when I posted the photos, the cartridge is held securely. When I install the cartridge in the 3 pc collet as the OP did, and as the posted lyman instructions say, as nearly everyone else who posted here says they use it...The cartridge is sloppy loose and I could see having problems as the OP had. I have not tried pulling a boolit with the cartridge installed in the 3 pc collet as prescribed for fear of damaging the collet. btw my lyman puller is only 1 or 2 years old.

Don't know. It could be there is some variation in the way the collets are machined from one brand to another. Also, It may depend on how the rebated ID edge on the collet matches up with the cartridge rim and extraction groove. Of course the ID (radius) of the collet (three sections working together) should match fairly closely to the OD (radius) of the base/extraction groove area of the cartridge.

fouronesix
10-04-2014, 06:38 PM
31 posts and no pointed out if ya put a foam earplug into the bottom of the puller it will not destroy the fancy varmint bullets when they come apart.

Good point. I also insert a piece of foam into the bottom of the puller to prevent bullet tip damage. I try to watch how close the bullet is to popping out of the mouth. When close to popping out, I reduce the force of the next blow or two to minimize the effect.

mold maker
10-05-2014, 10:52 AM
The dent in the primer of the exploded case is suspect. It sure looks like a small primer stem imprint, off center on a large primer. He didn't say why he was pulling the rounds, or how many he was working with.
The shell holder pictured has a rebated area machined into it to avoid high primer contact, and there is no surface (in the shell holder) that could impart the primer dent shown.
I suspect there is something missing from the equation.
Nearly ever reloader has, or has had, at least one impact puller. The idea of using a shell holder isn't new. That I have read of, there are only two reports of detonations. Both are suspect, and only one used a shell holder.
I'll with hold any decision to not use shell holders, till I see better proof of a problem.

fouronesix
10-05-2014, 01:10 PM
Both kinds of shell holders (the flat Lee primer seater type and the standard bayonet type) work fine in the two generic inertia pullers I've had. The decision about whether or not to use an inertial puller is a different matter from whether to use the 3 piece collet or shell holder in the inertia (impact) puller.

The only downside I've noticed to using a shell holder in place of the 3 piece aluminum collet in the inertia pullers, is that in many of the inertial pullers the shell holder is not held tightly and the unit rattles a bit when whacking it. Otherwise very little difference.

Some confusion may have crept into this thread because of the word "collet". The die/press mounted grip pull collet system is different from the inertia (impact) system that the OP was dealing with. Both use "collets" for difference purposes.

Tallbald
10-05-2014, 06:41 PM
LAst comment I guess I need to add. The replacement impact puller arrived in the retailers nickel yesterday, with a return prepaid FedEx tag for the first one. I used the new one with the collet positioned as I was shown here and it did fine. Salvaged half a dozen cartridges. I did include a note about the issue in the box the old one wil be returned in. Thanks everyone for all the postings. I've learned several things here as usual Don

Foto Joe
10-06-2014, 08:00 AM
When using a shell holder it can allow the base of the brass to move or "rattle" as stated above. That movement allows the shell holder to smack the base with pretty good force when you whack the bullet puller against whatever hard object you're using. Kinda like sticking a 45 in a vice and hitting the base to see what happens. The primer shown in the pic appears to be backed out, could have been a high primer or the pressure might have helped it get there since there was no bolt holding it in place when it went off. At any rate, I'll stick to using a shell holder only for dummy rounds.

Echo
10-06-2014, 12:10 PM
I strike the anvil side of my bench vise - sharp raps, allowing rebound. And I've used this puller for decades...

casterofboolits
10-06-2014, 01:47 PM
I use a lead "muffin" ingot for my impact bullet puller. And I have used a shell holder to pull a batch of 45 Colt that were loaded with a range of boolits.

paul edward
10-07-2014, 07:44 PM
Thanks to your posting this question, I learned that shell holders fit in my kinetic bullet puller.

Now there is a backup plan for when the o-ring fails.