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Billhunthunthunt
10-01-2014, 04:55 PM
What is the best way to remove a stuck breech plug? I just got the gun and don't have the tool but used a 11mm 1/4" socket and broke 2 extensions and soaked with PB Blaster? Any suggestions please. Oh its a Knight muzzle loader

Theditchman
10-01-2014, 05:08 PM
Try an impact driver with an impact socket that might work

Col4570
10-01-2014, 05:44 PM
Apply some heat with a blow torch after first checking it not loladed,heat some engine oil in a dog meat can,stand the breach end in the hot oil over night.Try to turn out the plug,repeat as necessary.Good luck.

Billhunthunthunt
10-01-2014, 05:59 PM
I cant get an impact socket in it its the older kind where you pull the back pin to cock it? A 3/8 drive socket wont fit in 1/4".The gun was loaded when I got it I took and pulled sabot and wad and powder and washed out . then used a small soldering torch to warm it but scared to burn off blueing any suggestion?

nhrifle
10-01-2014, 06:38 PM
Can you plug the breech so it won't leak? If so, stand it on end and put an ounce of Kroil down the barrel and let it soak overnight. Otherwise, heat and impact are going to be your friends. The impact driver mentioned above would work

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

JeffinNZ
10-01-2014, 06:50 PM
I recently removed the breech plug from my Isaac Haines .40cal flinter. I built the rifle 10 years ago and the plug had not been removed in that time. Soaked it for two days in Ed's Red solvent then with about a 2 foot long cheater bar the plug came out with ease. The threads were nicely wet after the soaking.

Billhunthunthunt
10-01-2014, 07:31 PM
this is what I have I cant get a 3/8 drive socket in on the breech plug117966117966117965[ATTACH=CONFIG]11

country gent
10-01-2014, 08:56 PM
Plud the nipple with a small wood pin A bamboo skewer sticks tapered end works well tap in tight. A small amount of kroil down the bore with it standing upright. heat and let set cycle this several times as every time you heat it it expands allowing more room for the kroil to flow as it cools and constricts it forces oil and crud back out, Have it uncomfortable to touch hot when you try to break it loose. A good socket and extension with a t handle insted of breaker bar or rachet allows for mor even twist and tourque on everything. It takes time and patience. Once it breaks loose work it back and forth ( similar to tapping a hole) to keep rust and crud freed up.

StolzerandSons
10-01-2014, 09:47 PM
The two primary ingredients in Ed's Red are Dexron III ATF and Acetone. Mix ATF and Acetone 50/50. Then stick a tooth pick in the flash hole and pour an ounce or so of ATF/Acetone down the bore and let it stand for a couple of days. Then try to pull the breechplug. If it doesn't come out, stick the tooth pick back in and pour some more atf/acetone down the bore and let it stand a week. then try again.

I've pulled breechplugs that were over 100 years old this way.

HTH

Colin

triggerhappy243
10-01-2014, 09:47 PM
Why not get an 18 inch extention thru the reciever, put the socket on while the extention is thru the reciever. Should fit.

thebigmac
10-01-2014, 10:29 PM
My granddaughter's hunting partner brought to me an old
Knight bore stuffer with a frozen breech plug.
I phoned Knight & explained the problem. They sent me a
socket, extension rod with a Tee handle & instructions on
using acetone & atf. Worked for me after waiting 2 days...Good luck.

thebigmac

fouronesix
10-02-2014, 12:51 AM
At this point I wouldn't worry too much about applied heat discoloring the bluing after looking at the photos. Have you gotten the nipple out? I don't know which Knight that is but many Knights of that design have a large slot in the breech plug for removal of the breech plug (after the nipple is removed of course).

As has been suggested, use some moderate heat, add some penetrating oil while hot followed by a cool-off to "draw in" the penetrating oil. Do it from both directions- from the breech and from the bore side of the plug. You can even use a freezer or refridge. to cool down even more. Then try a properly fit tool designed for the breech plug, a strong extension and a big handle or cheater to apply pressure. Don't use the barrel lug in the vise. Remove the scope bases and use hardwood or better yet aluminum U or V blocks for clamping the barrel TIGHT in a vise.

Removal of stuck breech plugs, stuck nipples, vent liners, drums and bolsters for all manner of MLs have all been covered over and over on this forum. If you get it out without ruining the works, next time use some heavy grease or anti seize. It pays to take these type breech plugs out for cleaning at the end of each shooting day- same for nipples. Completely clean the threads before applying the anti seize or grease.

Correct cleaning of many inlines is a real PITB compared to any hooked breech cap lock. One of the prices paid for "modern" I guess.

doc1876
10-02-2014, 08:17 AM
yep, you pretty much have to accept the sacrifice of the bluing, and attack it with oil, patience and heat. I like the comment about Knights, that is a good start.
We can always set it up to reblue/re brown it

GREENCOUNTYPETE
10-02-2014, 05:58 PM
I had some stuck nipples in a cap and ball , I soaked over night then tried and took it to the smith , he left it im my soup can of acetone and atf for a week before even looking at it beyond initial inspection of the cylinder then he turned down a socket so he could get it into the recess , he would take a punch and whack it then try an turn it , he did this a few times each and got the nipples out

I think if you can get enough torque to break the extensions you will be fine if you soak it in acetone and atf a week then whack it a few times with a long punch then try turning or impact , impact are great , you can probably get a 3/8 inch extension down with a reducer then a socket to fit use craftsman if you break them you take them back

you will need to make a block to hold it in a solid vice


you will never not anti seize it again

Billhunthunthunt
10-02-2014, 08:12 PM
Thanks everybody I have been soaking it and 5 minutes with a propane torch finally success!!! thanks for all the info now to figure out how to REBLUE!!

DaveInFloweryBranchGA
10-02-2014, 11:30 PM
Next time, let it soak longer and you won't need the torch.

John Taylor
10-03-2014, 01:08 PM
Might coat it with anti-seize when you put it back in.

mooman76
10-03-2014, 02:52 PM
I never had a problem with mine but I pulled it every time I shot, cleaned it right away and gave it a coat of oil. Just a matter or proper maintenance.

Billhunthunthunt
10-04-2014, 08:40 AM
the gun is my soninlaws he got from his dad and was missing parts and had been loaded for ?years I did soak barrel in hot bath waterand scrubbed the **** out of it then dried and re antiseized threads after cleaning with wire brush looks better but so pitting damage is done

wyrmzr
10-06-2014, 08:41 PM
Glad to see you got it out; last year, I bought what was labelled as a .50 caliber inline Traditions for $100. Once I got it home, I realized it was actually a .54. Not a big deal, just a bit more knockdown for whitetails around here.
However, the first day I took it to the range to sight it in, I did the classic mistake of starting a ball down the barrel, and forgot the powder. The usual tools that I found locally wouldn't work to remove that ball, and I had to wait a week to get the special tool for that inline rifle. You'd think that would have taught me a lesson, but yesterday, I went out to the range, did the same thing AGAIN, and didn't bring the breech plug tool! With any luck, the gun will be sighted in tomorrow....

dondiego
10-07-2014, 09:55 AM
POWDER, ball, cap, shoot! Repeat.