Lee 358-105-SWC for Ruger GP100 and Ruger 77/357 thoughts?

[Tallbald]

I'm weighing options for my first centerfire bullet mold purchase, after digesting several posts here (thanks for the points to ponder folks). This will be to make plinking, training, and "rabbit" rounds, so accuracy also would be appreciated. This is as some may know a .328 diameter 105 grain SWC with six cavities. A search on this forum with the Lee mold number gives no results for me.Not cheap for a new caster, it's about $40. Have looked for the twist rates of my GP100 and 77/357 to see if they are the same. Still looking, but believe that would be vital information. This load would save on lead, and make for a fun round with mild recoil. BC is .106 but I don't know how to use this figure. I'm trying to learn from past posts here and elsewhere methods to choose a slug. Thanks. Don

[tazman]

The rifle has a twist of 1:16, the pistol has a twist of 1:18.75 according to the spec sheet from the Ruger site. It should work nicely with both the rifle and pistol.
If you do a search for Lee 105 you will find tons of information.

The bc is of no importance within the practical limits of this cartridge unless you are shooting paper or steel at long range(beyond 100yds). Beyond 100yds even small differences in BC become significant.
This boolit has a reputation for good accuracy from revolvers and lever action rifles so should also perform well in the 77/357.

[GP100man]

Tallbald

In my experience with the Lee 105gr swc accuracy is good to excellent out to 30 yds or so at plinkin velocitys & makes a excellent small game load. I`ve ran em to 1k fps with little problem ,but any faster accuracy seems to falter , I think if I used a stronger/harder alloy I could push em harder , but for plinkin/small game what`s the use ??, I cast em from the softest alloy I have!

As far as the concern for initial investment for the mold goes , ya gotta weigh your time into the factor also !
Droppin 6 at the time makes short work of a 20# pot of alloy!!

I probably own 50# worth of molds , but the 1s that get used the most are 5 cavity NOEs & 6 cavity Lees
& the beauty of it is Lees 6 cavity handles fit em.

I`ve cast since `83 & knowing what I know now I`d start with a Lee 20# pot & 6 cavity molds & a hot plate to preheat the mold on.

For lubing & sizing , save up ya coins for a Star , ya won`t beat the production & quality unless ya go with an automatic machine. Since getting my Star sizer the Lymans are set up for rifle calibers & the Star does all the handgun calibers.

Tumble lubing does ok until ya wanna get serious `bout casting then a lube sizer is a must.

I hope this helps ,even if a little.

GP

[Tallbald]

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[Tallbald]

This is excellent information. And thanks agan to each of you for telling me how to reference the slug in the search feature. A little bit ago I was on the phone with a buddy who casts for his .45 Colt and several other calibers. I told him I'd bought a cast iron Lyman(?) pot and dipper instead of an electric pot, and told him about the 105 I'm looking at. He remarked that I may have trouble filling all six cavities with one dipper-full while keeping the mold hot. He explained he has six cavity molds he has to keep hot with end immersion to get a complete fill. Might be I should go with a lower cavity mold, especially given my inexperience. 30 to 65 yard range would be great for me too, as well as lower speeds. Thanks again and have a good night folks. Don

[rockshooter]

I could not get that stubby little bullet to feed in the 77/357. If you would send me a private message with a mailing address, I have an excess 109gr round nose mold I'd mail you
Loren

[jonp]

You can pour a bunch of boolits in a short time with a 2 cavity. I found that when I started last year using the 2 cavity helped me learn how to do it.
I would suggest stepping up to a 125gr boolit. I find light and stubby boolit for caliber more trouble than they are worth.

[Quiettime]

IDK about using them in the rifle but I have made these for my .38 and .357 guns. I use range scrap and lube them with Johnson Paste Wax. I size them to .358 and shoot them over about 4 grains of WW 231.

Not sure about using the dipper but you could try resting the mould on a cheap hot plate while you pour. Lee 6 cav mould is 3 times the quality of the 2 cav ones. I'm not a Lee hater but I doubt I will ever buy another 2 cav

[Tallbald]

Just wanted to follw up my thread. Today I went ahead and ordered the 6 cavity Lee 358-125-RF mold, handles and their .358 sizing die. Today I'll be trying my first melt, using a few pounds of mixed odd round ball, used lead air rifle pellets and lead roofing boot from the 1970's. Will be using an iron casting pot and single burner Coleman white gas pump up stove. The mold should be here early next week, but I'd like to get a feel for the melting/fluxing process. All new to me. Later. Don

[GP100man]

Tallbald

Using that set up it will be hard to keep that 6 banger up to temp, ya may wanna keep the hot plate handy.
As tempting it will be DO NOT drop the sprues or boolits directly into the melt , splashes cause problems & they hurt.

Using a smaller pot you`ll constantly be adding to it so watch the melt temp closely & preheat any ingots that have cooled , they`ll hold moisture & moisture under melted lead is not good !

Now search what to do to your new mold as far as cleaning the machining oils off, there`s many recipes for cleaning , but I find even after cleanin it , it will still purge lubes from the pours of the aluminum for 3-4 heat cycles.

Just go slow & methodically, Be Safe !

GP

[Tallbald]

GP100 thank you. I'm using a two burner Coleman gas stove and plan to run the second burner low (it doesn't burn with as high a flame anyhow) and use it to keep the mold hot between pours. Don