XP-Airguns Ranger 45

[JDNC]

Anyone here using a Ranger 45? I have had one for a few years and haven't shot it for several months and was just looking for current info.

My experience so far as for hunting with 370-375gr CB's is its a two shot thing not three. I've read where some complain about the spring fatigue and are not able to use 4400-4500psi fills after awhile and I guess I agree but really the gun was designed to use 4300psi. My valve begins locking at about 4300 or so. With a 4300 fill I get two shots hat usually will be inside 2MOA @ 100 yds and sometimes more or less. I've cast bullets from 25-40:1 and generally use 25:1.

Any input would be appreciated,
JD

[Pakprotector]

I have had one visit. It was also a 2-shot, with a slower third machine. Loud as <insert favourite expletive>. Was amazed by the wife's reaction after she shot it: We *NEED* one of these!

I have not indulged her wishes yet, and while energy is indeed impressive, it is a bit much for mostly-target-use, and certainly more than I need for squirrels and such...LOL As with any rifle of that style, the hammer spring preload, and spring constant can be adjusted to give reasonable performance. How easy it may be is not yet obvious to me...just had it visiting to shoot a few. I would like to be able to run one significantly below maximum available pressure in order to get more fills from a SCBA tank.
cheers,
Douglas

[melloairman]

Anyone here using a Ranger 45? I have had one for a few years and haven't shot it for several months and was just looking for current info.

My experience so far as for hunting with 370-375gr CB's is its a two shot thing not three. I've read where some complain about the spring fatigue and are not able to use 4400-4500psi fills after awhile and I guess I agree but really the gun was designed to use 4300psi. My valve begins locking at about 4300 or so. With a 4300 fill I get two shots hat usually will be inside 2MOA @ 100 yds and sometimes more or less. I've cast bullets from 25-40:1 and generally use 25:1.

Any input would be appreciated,
JD
I had a Gargoyle made buy him the last one he made before he started with the XP. The springs do tend to take a set if the rifle is not used for a long period or used a lot . Springs can be bought from several sources like Mc Master Carr . Just put a set in the spring before you cut it and it will last a lot longer . As mentioned the rifles are 2 power shots with a weaker follow up . I can not remember what weight bullet the rifle will take on medium power but you should look in to it or chrony it and check your air use age as well . Make sure your chrony is at least 10 feet away or false reading will happen . If you have the 28 inch barrel you might be pushing to much air with the weight of bullet you are using . The barrel is a wide groove narrow land and likes a tight fitting bullet . .001 over groove normally works good . And will normally take up to a 22 bhn alloy . If my memory is correct it is a 1 in 22 twist .

[JDNC]

I've shot probably 600 rnds or so through mine using weights in the 370-400 grs. Luckily I have been casting and swaging for over 35 yrs so I have a lot of different bullets and alloys to try. I bought this air rifle to hunt deer so I started working at high fill pressures and somewhat heavy bullets. I do have a 28" barrel and I really think maybe the 370grn bullets would be better using the the mid sear position but haven't tried yet.

I was told some guy in Texas was using PP bullets with success and picking up 150 fps with same fill pressures. I wouldn't have thought the grooves would be deep enough to cut the patch due to my experience with PP. The grooves are so shallow it would take some very thin paper and you surely can't depend on the bullet bumping up to groove dia. I have read that only this alloy or that would shoot accurately but have found that my gun will shoot about as good with hard or soft alloys, but the jury's still out on the final decision on that.

Back to the gun, I love the design and quality but it loves air. Basically without a air booster it's about useless if your going to be using high pressure which it's designed to use.

When I first received this gun (after more than two yrs wait) without getting into much detail, I had a barrel port o-ring failure. During that time I was (and still presently) using FP-10 as a bullet lube and to clean the barrel. I was told by the owner that it may have caused the failure due to it's solvent properties but I don't know. I do know that I'm still using it with the same type o-ring and have not had another problem. I know all about the FP-10 supposedly causing o-ring failure but the jury's still out on that too IMO, but that's for another thread. I now have replacement o-rings of a different type if it happens again.

There is not a lot of info on the Ranger so any input from you guys is appreciated.

JD

[melloairman]

I've shot probably 600 rnds or so through mine using weights in the 370-400 grs. Luckily I have been casting and swaging for over 35 yrs so I have a lot of different bullets and alloys to try. I bought this air rifle to hunt deer so I started working at high fill pressures and somewhat heavy bullets. I do have a 28" barrel and I really think maybe the 370grn bullets would be better using the the mid sear position but haven't tried yet.

I was told some guy in Texas was using PP bullets with success and picking up 150 fps with same fill pressures. I wouldn't have thought the grooves would be deep enough to cut the patch due to my experience with PP. The grooves are so shallow it would take some very thin paper and you surely can't depend on the bullet bumping up to groove dia. I have read that only this alloy or that would shoot accurately but have found that my gun will shoot about as good with hard or soft alloys, but the jury's still out on the final decision on that.

Back to the gun, I love the design and quality but it loves air. Basically without a air booster it's about useless if your going to be using high pressure which it's designed to use.

When I first received this gun (after more than two yrs wait) without getting into much detail, I had a barrel port o-ring failure. During that time I was (and still presently) using FP-10 as a bullet lube and to clean the barrel. I was told by the owner that it may have caused the failure due to it's solvent properties but I don't know. I do know that I'm still using it with the same type o-ring and have not had another problem. I know all about the FP-10 supposedly causing o-ring failure but the jury's still out on that too IMO, but that's for another thread. I now have replacement o-rings of a different type if it happens again.

There is not a lot of info on the Ranger so any input from you guys is appreciated.

JD
I do not see how the same weight bullet would be that much faster PP . As far as cleaning the barrel I use penetrating oil on my patches on all my AR . And I use dry moly spray or dry slide to lube the bullets . But to each their own . Not much info because according to him they are back logged with pump work and not many rifles have been built . I think he told me he has only made 2 58 caliber rifles in all this time . AR are like PB . It takes time to get the right load if we want to use that term . Not using different powders and amounts . But springs and air pressure with different weight bullets . And it is hard if you do not have a good supply of air . That is why a lot of people just settle for a air hog and never shoot the rifle much . I think you will find that if you try the middle power range and a little lighter bullet you will not lose a lot of energy and you will save a lot of air . Which will give you a stronger 3rd shot as well . And yes booster pumps are real handy when you get to those high fill rates . Marvin

[JDNC]

Speaking of air, I found one of my tanks had leaked out all the air and found the burst disc was leaking. I swear if it's not something all the time!

i read a few articles about moly that it sometimes causes some bad corrosion on chrome moly steel when it's in a damp environment. One such article was on Varmit Al's website. As AR's present this environment I've been afraid to use anything that contains molyB. Just to play it safe as I've got too much tied up in my guns.

My own experience with moly lubes with cast bullets with handguns and rifles haven't been that great for that matter, but that was just my experience.

i agree, that probably I need to look at lighter bullets with the 28" barrel, as I might save a lot on air.

I love shooting these things..never boring that's for sure.

JD

[jasperjet]

Speaking of air, I found one of my tanks had leaked out all the air and found the burst disc was leaking. I swear if it's not something all the time!

i read a few articles about moly that it sometimes causes some bad corrosion on chrome moly steel when it's in a damp environment. One such article was on Varmit Al's website. As AR's present this environment I've been afraid to use anything that contains molyB. Just to play it safe as I've got too much tied up in my guns.

My own experience with moly lubes with cast bullets with handguns and rifles haven't been that great for that matter, but that was just my experience.

i agree, that probably I need to look at lighter bullets with the 28" barrel, as I might save a lot on air.

I love shooting these things..never boring that's for sure.

JD Dan says these 45 rangers are made to shoot 45 acp bullets between 200-230 grain. I like 330 -350 grain bullets and about 3100-3200 on high power . I find that light bullets are more accurate with less air and heavier bullets are more accurate with more air. I havent tried all combinations yet by any means. I wish we could regulate the air.

[melloairman]

Dan says these 45 rangers are made to shoot 45 acp bullets between 200-230 grain. I like 330 -350 grain bullets and about 3100-3200 on high power . I find that light bullets are more accurate with less air and heavier bullets are more accurate with more air. I havent tried all combinations yet by any means. I wish we could regulate the air.
You can not regulate air for hunting as far as I know no one makes a regulator to install in the rifle . But to check for accuracy or target work you can tether off the tank with a regulator . If you already know this excuse my post .Marvin

[Pakprotector]

the only way to effectively regulate the air is to deliver two things simultaneously. One is have the reg upstream of a large enough plenum so the average pressure does not go too low during the shot, and the second is to regulate at sufficient pressure to deliver the required velocity. With these rifles, that means regulating to pressure in excess of 4k psi, and having a plenum of half a liter displacement.

I see practical issues with both of those things...:D
cheers,
Douglas

this for stand-alone; on the bench, hook up as described by Mello