case lube options?

[mallen]

what are the different case lube method options?

[Thompsoncustom]

As in different recipes or how the case lube is applied?

[mallen]

Just looking for an option that i like. my first attempt was with lanolin. that was a failure. Lately iv been using imperial sizing wax on every few cases. works for sizing, but flaring out the case mouth it doesnt really do anything. I had an idea of tumbling stainless steel media with some lubing stuff mixed in, coating the inside and outside, not needing any lubing after. but not sure if that would work/available product/or just a dumb idea to begin with.

[runfiverun]

add something to your lanolin.
I like castor oil and a titch of neats foot oil.
I mix in lanolin 2 parts to 1 castor oil then add in about 5% neats foot.
it works for case sizing/case forming/and bullet swaging.
you definitely do not want to try and clean the lanolin from the cases in a wet tumbler it will make a grey mess of things.

I flair my cases dry or with the minimum amount of lube.
if I need some on the inside of a case neck [for pulling over the button] I put a little on a bore mop and use that to apply it.
to remove the lube I tumble in media.

[mallen]

The problem I ran into, which is why im seeking out methods. When the case goes up onto the powder funnel, it seems to be forming grooves on the funnel and is "digging" into the inside of the case wall. dillon says im not pressing down on the handle. so yea, no help there. they are sending me a new funnel. but i would like to avoid the same issue. i don't see why copper cases are gouging up a steel funnel. but its happening. i can snag my fingernail on them and see the "cuts" inside the case mouth. and obviously feeling the friction. seems they are stopping the case from pushing all the way up onto the funnel, and some of the cases come out with almost no flair at all. sometimes have to run a case through 3 times to get it to open up all the way.

[jmort]

Hornady Unique

[mallen]

Hornady Unique
"Features: Can also be used to waterproof leather, boots and shoes " thats funny.

is there an easy way to apply it to a whole batches of brass?

[jmort]

If you want to do batches, use lanolin and 99% rubbing alcohol in a zip-lock.

[mallen]

If you want to do batches, use lanolin and 99% rubbing alcohol in a zip-lock.
I had malfunctions when i did that.

[Silverboolit]

I use RCBS case lube and alcohol in a baggie and it works great. After sizing, I wet tumble without the pins and use lemi-shine and dawn. This removes the lube and makes the cases pretty. ( I like shiny cases)

[mallen]

I have a progressive press, so after sizing it goes right to the powder funnel. iv used a few unclean cases, mostly cases i bought cleaned. you arnt supposed to need lube on carbide dies. and iv no issues on everything accept the powder funnel, which not simply sticks to the cases, but grabbs ahold making it hard to pull them off. scratched up pretty bad. but if its carbide. how?

[MtGun44]

That's weird. I put .223 brass in a ziplock, shoot in a spritz of Dillon lube (pretty sure just
lanolin and alcohol) and tumble it around in my hands. Pull out a piece of brass and put it
into the Dillon. For straight walled cases - use carbide and no lube.

Don't use too much, a single spritz into a 2 gal ziplock is plenty for maybe 200 cases.
A trace is all that is needed. I wipe the ammo down after loading with a rag with
a splash of alcohol on it. Heet is a great source of alcohol, use the yellow bottle for
isopropyl alcohol, not the red, which is methyl.

Bill

[dromia]

For case sizing at the press I use Hornady Unique.

For the progressives I spray and tumble in lanolin and alcohol.

I don't lube necks as they don't need it, expander balls are abominations and the work of the devil all mine are destroyed immediately and replaced with a straight decapping pin or an expander from a smaller calibre die set.

All my neck expanding is done with a Lyman "M" die type expander with doesn't need lubing.

[Echo]

I don't do bottle-necked cases on my Dillon, just straight-sided. When I load bottle-necked cases on my RC, I clean them first, then tumble them in a Thumler w/ some Alemite CD-2 (yes, it's an OLD can!) smeared around the inside. After loading, I see-saw the loaded rounds in an old towel that has been sprinkled w/mineral spirits.
And I guess this doesn't help you at all...

[prs]

mallen; with which case are you working. If you are wanting to lube the inside of the case and go directly to the powder through die, you need to use something that dries and does not effect powder. I wet tumble to clean my brass and after rinsing the cleaning solution from the cases and the cases are still wet, I put a tiny dib of Lee case lube on my hands and mix it through the brass, several hundred cases at a time. When the cases dry, they are lubed and ready to go into the case feeder at the press. But, over time the inside sizer does get some brass clinging onto it and the stripes occur. That after a few thousand rounds. Fine bronze or steel wool with NuFinish cleans the internal size powder through right up.

prs

[runfiverun]

the issue isn't with the case lube.
I lube lightly even when using carbide dies.
dillons lube is perfect for this as I can just mist [one pump] a tray full, it doesn't give anything like full coverage but just a spot here and a spot there to keep things moving easier.

the issue is with the cases grabbing the powder funnel when flaring and dropping the powder.

I have had this happen occasionally too, try running a champher tool inside the offending case.
look and determine if it is just one brand of cases too.
they may be thicker cases and have a smaller internal diameter making them grab tighter.

I wouldn't want to use a wet lube on the Dillon as you just end up with a bunch of sticky cases.
something that has helped me in the past has been to sprinkle a little motor mica on a batch of cases and then shake them in a baggie to distribute it.
it's dry.

and absolutely make sure you run the handle through it's whole range of motion top to bottom.
many will get going and short stroke the down motion on the handle.
or not push it the extra 2" over stroke to seat the primer on the up position.

[mallen]

9mm cases, someone asked i think.

so, it sounds like the issue is with the funnel not being carbide. everything else is, and lube is only needed to make it run smoother, but, i think the funnel is mild steel. that dumb in my opinion, and yea, its been about a few k rounds. so, maybe i just need to polish it from time to time? iv got a "just fast enough" drill press i put a buffing wheel on. i could give that a go. im planning on using some wax and stainless media to clean them, that might give me a little lube.

[Moonie]

I use 7 parts 91% alcohol to 1 part anhydrous lanolin. I shake the bottle before application. If you do not let it dry completely you will have issues.

[mallen]

I had lots of issues. first i had to heat it up every time because it would separate. then when i did use it, i believe it contaminated the powder. had all kinds of malfunctions. batch after (with no case lube) worked perfect.

[KYCaster]

Imperial Sizing Die Wax................................8.39/2 oz.
Redding Sizing Die Wax.................................7.99/1 oz.
Hornady On Shot Wax...................................9.99/2 oz.
Hornady Unique...........................................5 .19/4 oz.

Greenlee Wire Pulling Lube.........................Less than 10.00/32 oz.

Squirt a 2" ribbon of lube in a plastic bag, mash it around till the inside of the bag is coated, add 200 .223 cases and knead for 30 sec. Works LOTS BETTER than anything else I've tried.

Call up your electrician buddy and tell him to save the empty bottle they're throwing away....you'll have a lifetime supply.

I've used Greenlee and Gardner Bender brands.....others will probably work as well.

Jerry

[country gent]

I use the imperials sizing die wax for all my reloading sizing. I have an old terry cloth bath towel I use. 2-300 cases on it a couple fingers of luube in the cases and see saw back and forth a few minutes distribute a very even layer of lube on the outside if the case. ( until the towel becomes impregnated with lube you have to make sure cases are lubed). This has worked for me for many years. A stated above i also lightly lube for carbide dies also, especially 9mm and 40S&W. The only carbide in carbide size dies is the sizer ring all the rest is hardened tool steel, unless you have a set of the dillon rifle dies made some years ago or a set of manufacturers production dies. My dillons powder funnels expanders are chrome plated. A good light polish with lines runnig up and and down the expander ( not around it from spinning) will help alot. Also check for burrs and dings in your cases as these make it work harder also. A dry motor mica can be applied with a brush or bore mop. The issue is not so much dies as lack of lybe in case mouth and most get away with out it. By hand working slow and easy with a piece of 320 grit wet dry lightly polish working surfaces parallel to centerline add a little light oil and again lightly polish. Buff with a green scratch pad and try it. You can with this surface work some wax or lube into it and it will hold it much longer.

[mallen]

I use the imperials sizing die wax for all my reloading sizing. I have an old terry cloth bath towel I use. 2-300 cases on it a couple fingers of luube in the cases and see saw back and forth a few minutes distribute a very even layer of lube on the outside if the case. ( until the towel becomes impregnated with lube you have to make sure cases are lubed). This has worked for me for many years. A stated above i also lightly lube for carbide dies also, especially 9mm and 40S&W. The only carbide in carbide size dies is the sizer ring all the rest is hardened tool steel, unless you have a set of the dillon rifle dies made some years ago or a set of manufacturers production dies. My dillons powder funnels expanders are chrome plated. A good light polish with lines runnig up and and down the expander ( not around it from spinning) will help alot. Also check for burrs and dings in your cases as these make it work harder also. A dry motor mica can be applied with a brush or bore mop. The issue is not so much dies as lack of lybe in case mouth and most get away with out it. By hand working slow and easy with a piece of 320 grit wet dry lightly polish working surfaces parallel to centerline add a little light oil and again lightly polish. Buff with a green scratch pad and try it. You can with this surface work some wax or lube into it and it will hold it much longer.

mine is brand new. do they all come chrome plated?

so i need to buff it once in a while. Can i use a rotary buffing wheel to do it?

[country gent]

It dosnt hurt but its a little diffrent than a buffing is. You want the hills and valleys from the medium grit sand paper to hold wax or lube. Only use the scratch pad to take sharp edges off when finished

[Thompsoncustom]

Only thing I've ever used is mostly Mobil 1, some STP, and some two stroke oil. Came out a light greenish color. I was trying to make a good lube for tupperware guns and it works well for that but also makes a great case lube. Did it on a wimm so I didn't measure anything.