More Lyman 310 ??????

[Muskrat Mike]

I've just recently started collecting the tong tools and dies and the Truline Jr presses. I'm having fun learning to use them but have some questions for those out there with more experience them me. I loaded my first batch of 38 specials with the tong tool. it loaded beautiful shells and was fun. However if I didn't have a pack of spare decapping pins I'd have been in trouble. I broke 4 while loading 90 shells. Are they that fragile or am I doing something wrong?? :confused: I adjusted them so they were just out far enough to push out the primer.
Also it seemed to take a good amount of force to use the muzzle resizer both closing and opening it. I'm wondering when I get to the .44 mags and the .45 colt if it's going to be even tougher? :confused: I used imperial sizing wax and only sized down about 3/8" or less from the end of the case.
Thanks in advance for any help!!
Mike

[ktw]

I have been using the 310 dies in trueline Jr. presses for most of my handgun cartridge loading. I have a couple sets of handles but don't use them much.

The only issue that I can think of that might relate to your problem is that the decapping rods on used die sets are occasionally (and more often with rifle die sets) bent. If yours is bent it would cause your decapping pin to not hit the flash hole square and could lead to broken pins.

I haven't had a problem with broken decapping pins. I usually try to replace any bent decapping rods in die sets I pick up.

-ktw

[hyoder]

Line the decapping rod up by inserting an unprimed case, screwing the decapping rod & pin in far enough to push a primer out, then tighten the jamb nut. Make sure that the decapping pin does not contact the other side of the tong - that will decap the decapper in a hurry.
Maake sure that the decappin rod stays tight and doesn't get off center.

[Muskrat Mike]

Thanks guys, I'll try to do that and pay attention to what's happening.
Mike

[Dale53]

Muskrat Mike;
The American Single Shot Rifle Association ASSRA) latest magazine (The Single Shot Rifle Journal) has an interesting article on the Lyman 310 tool. Lyman is slowly stopping manufacture of the 310 Tool. It is kind of sad, but apparently the demand is low. The article, by my good friend Charlie Shaeff, details how you can keep these going and where to go for parts that Lyman no longer supplies. I can recommend that you might want to join ASSRA. It is $35.00 per year and includes the magazine, which, in my opinion, is MORE than worth the price of membership. They also have a good Forum for single shot enthusiasts. Keith Foster, the Membership Administrator will send you a copy of the latest magazine, if you ask, when you join. You can also buy just the one issue if you prefer.

In the spirit of "full disclosure", I am a Contributing Editor and Photographer for the Journal

Dale53

[scrapcan]

Muskrat Mike,

I am sure you already did this but I also make sure clean clean the dies really well. Some of the old gems have been laying in a cigar box for years and have untold layers of varnished oil and lube plus dirt in them. Inspect well and clean even better.

Look up Randy Davis and his 310 shop, if you have not already, for parts and complete sets.

http://www.cnyauctions.com/the310shop.htm

[Muskrat Mike]

Thanks again guys. I probably will join ASSRA. I 'm sure I'll enjoy it and learn from it.
Yes, I 've been cleaning the dies with kroil and old pull through gun cleaners. I think I will try polishing some also in the future.
Mike

[Le Loup Solitaire]

One of the possible factors contributing to breaking of decapping pins in the 310 tool is that sometimes the knurled bushing or collar that holds the pin in place loosens up a bit and allows the pin to be loose or wobble just a little and once it is off-axis it wil miss the flash hole in the case. It doesn't take much. So the thing to do is make sure that they are tight...not to the point that you bugger up the collar with a pliers, but just keep checking the situation every 5 or 10 rounds. I have made a few pins in the pinch out of a finishing nail that I first heated to bright red and then quenched in cold water to harden it up. You have to do this as nails are relatively soft. Trim to the required length and smooth the end(s).