Ballisti-Cast Mark X bullets

[Labanaktis]

Here are a few more pics. Results are good. I am having some issues with the pot orfis.... Leaking a bit causing a drip to form and cause wrinkles in the nose of the bullet. It's not happening when running it faster but still something that needs to be worked out.

Now I am running all 4 moulds. 9mm 124gn No lube Groove

Matt

[MGnoob]

There are a few ways to deal with "Pot Drip" mine barely drips.
if your going to take a break or for whatever reason always leave the mold in the pour position full, or index the machine a half stroke so the drip falls between the 2 molds and onto the machine.

IMO, letting the mold cavity collect the drips, then pouring creates an unsafe projectile prone to breaking it's nose off during chambering the round when hitting the feed ramp.

when i run mine, after the initial start-up. i use this practice and other than a few rounded base from under filling a cavity. i almost don't even have to sort/cull bad projectiles..there pretty much all perfect.

[MGnoob]

Adjusting the flow through the orifice to a larger/faster pour/stream will allow any **** to flow through the orifice.
if you play with it too much you'll wind up with uneven streams. also how you pull the pour handle can effect how even the two streams are...take this into account while adjusting..
i am not sure what you use for ingots but 1 or 5lb ingots are too small.. having to ad 40-60 at a time makes me think i'll eventually get splashed in the face.So i started making 10lb ingots..haven't used any yet.

[Labanaktis]

The pot lead flow out of the orifice is perfect....it's just the needle valve not sealing. I will have to give Ballisti cast a call and have them walk me thru taking the valve apart. I was not sure how to do it with the lead still in the pot. Maybe a torch to melt the lead out of the orifice? I cannot imagine running the pot completely out of lead....the **** on top would give you problems.

Thanks, Matt

[MGnoob]

I would defiantly not run it empty, just open up orifice an let it flow for a bit to remove anything that maybe getting hung up in there..
i'm curious what ballisticast will have to say.. one time i tried to remove one of the allens on the orifice-plate. it wouldn't turn either way and i didn't want to damage anything due to it being the 1st time i ran the machine..

mine is a 240v unit, if i turn it on for 5 min even with hard lead on top you can flow some out.. because there are tubes that contain all the "works". for the lead pour.

[Labanaktis]

I have the same problem with the orifice plate. The bolt was very tight. I'll shoot them an email.

[MGnoob]

If you do wind up removing the orifice plate please post a photo..i am curious if it can be removed "cold"
on magma's website they show it being removed cold on there pot for cleaning..
other than the bolt only turning a 1/4 turn each way and feeling like it would break if i really tried to turn it, the heating element runs through the plate or just above it..
Does your heating element glow bright red where it enters the orifice plate? i do like how the heating element is where it is and keeps the orifice plate hotter then the lead temp..i'm just curious if it's the same on a 120v unit.