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pbbutz
01-30-2008, 09:41 PM
What do you guys use on your iron moulds before they are put away? And then, how do you clean them?

cbrick
01-30-2008, 09:53 PM
I store my moulds completely dry. For $4.00 at the grocery store I get an air tight food storage container, two moulds (2 cavity) fit in each of these. The lid even has a silicone rubber gasket. I add a desicant chip for good measure. Not a speck of rust since I've been doing this and when I take them out they are ready to go.

I currently have about 60 moulds so I have quite a stack of them in three sizes for four and six cavity moulds. I label the containers on the front edge and stack them in the cabinet., they stack 5 high very well.

Rick

MtGun44
01-31-2008, 02:50 AM
several 50 cal or SAW ammo cans with a milsurp dissicant pak baked as
per instructions on the pak.

No need to clean anything off the molds, and zero rust.

Bill

jonk
01-31-2008, 10:00 AM
Nothing. I have seen rust on the outside of the molds- very light- but never on the inside, either the cavity or faces. This just sitting in the basement. So I don't worry about it.

Even a little light rust in the mold wouldn't bother me as long as not in the cavity.

Calamity Jake
01-31-2008, 10:20 AM
MtGun44 and I think alike, 50 cal military ammo cans with a good seal.

John Boy
01-31-2008, 08:40 PM
Eezox (http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html)
Micro-90 (http://www.ipcol.com/orig-site/sample.htm)

Shiloh
02-02-2008, 10:35 AM
WD 40 Then in a closed container. The upper midwest is humid.

Shiloh

Le Loup Solitaire
02-02-2008, 09:23 PM
Have been using a product called Clenzoil for many years. Apply it to the cavities and the rest of the blocks plus the retaining pins. Can do it with a Q Tip. Storage is in GI ammo can. Clean up/prep for casting: soak blocks in a solvent (paint thinner, acetone, lacquer thinner etc., for an hour or overnight in a covered cup, then wipe dry or use a hair dryer or heat gun, then preheat. Had never had rust.

Slowpoke
02-03-2008, 01:28 AM
Some Museums use plain mineral oil to preserve metal artifacts. So that what I use on my moulds. I go over all surfaces with a Q-tip saturated with the mineral oil then wrap the mould tight with saran wrap and place in mould box that goes in a ammo can.

When I want to use the mould I unwrap it and put the handles on and carry it outside open it up and place it in the sunshine and spray it with break cleaner, set it on the hot plate to get hot then start casting ,most times the first boolits are keepers.

I lived in S AZ for most of my life and never had to do anything.

Out here in the MID- Atlantic region its a whole different world, metal things don't wear out they just rust away if given half a chance.

good luck

bhp9
02-03-2008, 07:16 AM
Molds are very susceptible to rust. I spray mine when they are dead cool with wd 40 and put them in a plastic bag and then put them in a a very large ammo can (I have a lot of molds and the can was for 20mm shells).

When I want to use them I either spray them with brake cleaner or for better results boil them in water for 1/2 your with a small amount of dish washer soap (the kind you use in dish washer machines).

44man
02-03-2008, 09:21 AM
bhp9, read my response on your other post about WD-40.

7s&8s
02-03-2008, 01:54 PM
Aerosol rust inhibitor (Gunk chain lube, LPS 3, TC-11) once cooled, then to SAW ammo can. Dessicant is on the shopping list, and will be added...

Clean with denatured alcohol and small paint brush, wipe, and air-dry before use.

I figure there's no reason they shouldn't last 300 years like the shooters that you're feeding!

Given prices of molds, and the trends in manufacturing quality, it's worth a try... besides, it only takes one oopsie and then you have the pain of rust to contend with, as well as irreversible damage to the mold.

Best Regards,
Tom