I found welding gloves at a yard sale

[konsole]

Stopped at a few yard sales today and one guy had a few boxes full of work gloves and a small assortment of welding gloves. One set I couldnt pass up, partly because I don't have any heavy duty gloves, but also because the gloves didnt have any threads showing that I figured could eventually burn and unravel. It also helped that they were new and only $5. I know the bare threads probably wont wear through or burn through prematurely, but I like how weaknesses in a glove that could cause premature break down are eliminated. Something about handling hot metal with gloves that have bare cotton? thread doesnt seem like a good idea to me.

They look exactly like this one, just a different color...
http://www.okokchina.com/Files/uppic47/COWHIDE%20SPLIT%20LEATHER%20WELDING%20GLOVE237.jpg

Does anyone use welding gloves?
How really heat resistant are they, or what kind of temperatures can they withstand before melting/burning?
Do you find that they are well built and last a long time?

[Beagle333]

I don't use welding gloves, but I do want a pair. I just keep forgetting to pick up a set. I use regular leather work gloves and they work great for most casting, but they do get kinda hot if I have to hold the mold for any reason (such as wiping off any lead smears or tinning.)

[500MAG]

I use welding gloves and they work great. Thin enough for me to feel the handles and mould comfortably yet thick enough to prevent burns. They are good because the length helps cover the part of your arm that may get burned if you lose grip or have a splatter.

[Yodogsandman]

I use the exact same pair, only grey colored. They're great! For smelting work, I wear both gloves. For casting, I wear the right glove only. My right hand does all the hot work, the left just holds the mold handles.

[Jim_P]

I picked up a good (decent) pair of leather welding gloves and a welding apron from Harbor Freight for about $10. Made from suede. Not at all a bad set for the price! The gloves are lined for sweat and comfort. Work great. They go about 3/4 the way to the elbows. Protect well against heat, but don't stick your hand in the molten alloy! :veryconfu

[dikman]

At that price they'll always come in useful. I'm with Beagle, however, I find my welding gloves are too thick to get enough "feel" when wearing them.

[zuke]

At that price they'll always come in useful. I'm with Beagle, however, I find my welding gloves are too thick to get enough "feel" when wearing them.

Yep, same here.

[alamogunr]

Those look exactly like mine except mine have a longer cuff. Yes, they don't have as much "feel" as thinner gloves but I'm willing to forgo some feel for more protection.

[HangFireW8]

I sometimes use them for smelting, but not for casting.

[monadnock#5]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOABOXW/ref=asc_df_B00GOABOXW3282963?smid=A1ZBP2XKWSLZS8&tag=pgmp-959-97-20&linkCod

Different gloves are better for some tasks than others. The gloves in the link are what I use at work and I swear by them. They're light and flexible and about perfect for casting and working around the casting pot. Not so much for carrying and handling hot ingots and ingot moulds, that's where your welding gloves come in. They must be kept dry. The nitrile does not mean waterproof.

[buckwheatpaul]

Been using welding gloves for over 25 years....not only for welding and cutting but also in our camp box for cooking over campfires as well as in the kitchen for oven mits....they are great if they are good quality......Good welding gloves are very heat effecient....

[Dale in Louisiana]

Visit your local welding or industrial supply and get a pair of 'TIG' gloves (http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Split-Deerskin-Kevlar-Gloves/dp/B002D8Y8E6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409509140&sr=8-3&keywords=tig+welding+glove). They're a lot thinner, giving you better feel, but still thick enough and heat resistant (Kevlar thread) for casting work.

dale in Louisiana

[bangerjim]

I have them but do not use them because you have no feel and they make thing very hard to pick up. I do not smelt any more as I find all my Pb and alloys in clean condition at the scrap yards. I gave up on WW's 5 years ago.

Only use for actual welding now.


Leather golves are only efficient as long as the leather is not black and shiny from wear and grease. That lets the heat right thru!!!!!!!! When the get shiny on the fingers, throw them away and buy a new pair.

I use flexable leather work gloves to pick up hot stuff and pre-heated fee ingots off the hotplate.

When casting I do not use any. I do wear a leather apron to protect my lower extremeties and prevent anything from falling into my shoes. I consider that more important than those heavy clumsy welding gloves.

I use those white woven cotton gloves from HF for taking PC bake racks out of the oven.

If you feel the need to wear heavy gloves for everything hot, by all means, do it for your peace of mind.

bangerjim

[cuzinbruce]

I use leather work gloves which I always thought were welding gloves, but they are not lined or insulated. Just gray suede. From the flea market for cheap, maybe a couple bucks a pair. Better than nothing and the price was right.

[Popgunner]

I have used one pair of the cheaper HF weld gloves for about 3 years now just for casting & I really like them. I use two and just grab the sprue cutter & open it-no whacking needed. I have a steel fab shop & have tried other better quality welding gloves but like others here found them too hard for casting work. These cheap gloves are softer, & work great. Mine are red but these are just the same: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-pair-14-inch-split-cowhide-welding-gloves-488.html

[1911KY]

I use these gloves that I got from HF for about $5. They are decently flexible and are fairly heat resistant. I pull out the 400 degree F toaster trays with them, but you can feel the heat after about 15-20 seconds.

I cast in them and never feel any heat. If I touch the edge of the pot I can feel the heat after a few seconds.
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/jamesearnett/Mobile%20Uploads/8bef4acd-940f-4ccc-893f-ea0babd44a13_zpsb298830b.jpg?t=1409528387

[ReloaderFred]

Whatever you use, make sure they're real leather. Synthetic leather melts when molten lead hits it, and leaves a burn mark on your hand........... Only the real stuff works.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[fryboy]

if one waits until they are on sale HF usually has 3 pair pack for around $10 , i'm on my second such pack , to be fair the first pack i reserved one for the BBQ grill etc and gave one to a casting friend ( that was ...ummm 7-ish years ago ) the second pack i moved the BBQ pair to the casting spot and it's pair exclusively to the smelting station , for when i need fine feel i use a pair of tig welding gloves
http://www.applesafety.com/welding/tillman/tillman_super_premium_kidskin_tig_gloves.html

[trixter]

Ok, I realize I am living on the edge here, but for casting I go neked (hands). For smelting I conform and use welding gloves from HF. Learned the hard way. It only took once, and it was just a little splash-lett that landed on my hand, and I could not let go of the ingot mold till i could put it on the cooling area, ouch ouch. I was surprised at the amount of pain that a very little spot can inflict. Lesson learned.

[DougGuy]

TiG gloves are too thin. Heat goes RIGHT THROUGH them in an instant if they are tight fitting like they are supposed to be. I roast coffee and the equipment gets close to 500° so I use MIG gloves. Slightly insulated, they are about halfway between non-insulated TiG gloves, and bulky rawhide welding gloves. I still have good dexterity and welding gloves are just like everything else, you get what you pay for.

These are my favs, they are not HF cheapies but they will outlast HF gloves 10 to 1.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revco-BSX-BM50-Premium-Pigskin-MIG-Welding-Gloves-Medium-/331299462357?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d22fc9cd5

LOL for the caster who might want something fancy that Santa can stuff in a stocking, these are bad to the bone :bigsmyl2:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Revco-BSX-BX9-19S-BK-9-oz-19-Red-Flame-Resistant-Cotton-Welding-Sleeves-/331299462447?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d22fc9d2f

[dikman]

Trixter, you certainly like living dangerously! I wouldn't dream of doing any kind of casting with lead without wearing gloves (and glasses), everything to do with it gets HOT! I value my skin and have an intense dislike of pain!!

[Garyshome]

I have an old pair that my dad had, no idea just how old they are, thick leather. Only for use in extreme casting sessions!

[3jimbo3]

Stopped at a few yard sales today and one guy had a few boxes full of work gloves and a small assortment of welding gloves. One set I couldnt pass up, partly because I don't have any heavy duty gloves, but also because the gloves didnt have any threads showing that I figured could eventually burn and unravel. It also helped that they were new and only $5. I know the bare threads probably wont wear through or burn through prematurely, but I like how weaknesses in a glove that could cause premature break down are eliminated. Something about handling hot metal with gloves that have bare cotton? thread doesnt seem like a good idea to me.

They look exactly like this one, just a different color...
http://www.okokchina.com/Files/uppic47/COWHIDE%20SPLIT%20LEATHER%20WELDING%20GLOVE237.jpg

Does anyone use welding gloves?
How really heat resistant are they, or what kind of temperatures can they withstand before melting/burning?
Do you find that they are well built and last a long time?

Back several years ago, I took a job with the railroad doing thermo welding. About six months into the job I realized the human body, at least mine, was not designed for that type of cruelty and I went back to operating heavy equipment. Now this particular task involves molting metal to pour into a mold around the rail to make a solid ribbon of rail line. Once poured, (at a temp of about 3200 degrees F) I believe but don't hold me to that figure, the mold was allowed to cool for a short time. After about 2-3 minutes, we would gently tap the side of the mold to cause it to break at the top of the rail. My job was to catch the broken mold……. so I went in search of some gloves that would protect my hands. I tried welding gloves, but still would get burned from time to time. While out looking at a welding supply store one day, the gentleman working there ask me what type of glove I needed. I told him my story and he suggested a glove he had on the shelf that was an insulated leather work glove. It had some kind of material in the insulation that was amazing. No more burned hands and I was able to hold on to the mold head even after the gloves started smoking. I don't have a name for the gloves but most welding supply stores have them. They almost look like a winter glove but you still have good dexterity with them. Thats what I use, casting, weed eating, rigging cranes, hunting, well just about everything. They are a short glove too, then I just use a welders sleeve when I'm casting.

[Springfield]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OVE-GLOVE-2-PACK-2-GLOVES-ORIGINAL-/251570772561?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a92c95a51

Comfortable, extremely heat resistant, inexpensive. They even have the Silicone lines to aid in traction so yo don't drop expensive moulds. I replace mine about every 6 months due to tears and thread pulls.