My 1st "6-Holer" Arrived, Yikes!!

[Foto Joe]

I finally pulled the trigger so to speak and ordered a Lee 356-120TC six cavity mold for my daughters 9mm. It arrived yesterday afternoon on the Brown Truck and I just had to heat up the pot and give it a try. I've got to say that I'm impressed. The six cav molds from Lee appear to be of a substantially higher quality than the two cav models. The sprue plate didn't need to have the edge knocked off of it to prevent carving up the tops of the mold blocks and the overall quality is very good. I like the fact that it doesn't weigh a ton either, about the same as a Lyman iron two cav mold really.

Unfortunately I made the mistake of following Lee's instructions regarding cleaning it and just used lighter fluid and a Q-tip to clean the cavities. It wasn't the brightest move I've ever made but I was impatient to use it and didn't want to use my faithful Dawn and hot water. The first twenty or so pours gave some pretty wrinkled up boolits but once it "seasoned" itself they started dropping really nice. A couple of observations:

Once you get going with one of these things you can really pump out some boolits!!

Also, I'm gonna have to use a wet rag to keep the mold cool from the looks of it. A six cavity mold even if the boolits are only 120gr will get extremely hot. So much so that even after the sprue hardens and frosts you can still have molten alloy under that sprue plate.

And lastly I was surprised at how big the boolits drop out of this so-called .356 mold. The weights are right on the money (123gr +/-) but the boolits are dropping at .360-.362 which kind of surprised me. Alloy is COWW +2% tin.

[leadman]

It is good to see the pile of boolits grow so fast. Check the mold faces for any pieces of lead stuck there and also hold it up to the light with the sprue plate open and see if the pins might be holding it open.
Make sure you keep your hand off the handle for the sprue plate when filling it as this causes the mold to open a bit.

[Dale53]

Foto Joe;
I have a number of Lee Six Cavity moulds also. The Lee 356-120-TC is an excellent design, too.

Regarding the overheating of the mould. That is typical for most six cavity moulds. Mike Venturino, in an article, suggested the use of a manicurists fan (the small 6"or7" fan that ladies use to dry their nails with after they apply nail polish). They are available at both Target and Wal-Mart. They are found in the fan department (not the cosmetics department) and only run $6.00-$7.00 as I remember. I mounted mine just over the area of my bench where I open my mould to dump the bullets. Now, it only takes about two seconds to cool the sprue (and also maintains a nice casting temperature of the mould blocks, themselves). It is a great addition to the casting bench:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj80/Dale53/Castingfan-3723.jpg (http://s269.photobucket.com/user/Dale53/media/Castingfan-3723.jpg.html)

Dale53

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

How hot is your alloy?
Correct temp is 100º above liquidus.
if your are at the correct temperature, one trick I use is to cast with a small fan blowing toward the area where you drop the boolits...but not on the pot.

I usually only need the fan with large boolits above 250 gr.

[dondiego]

It was mentioned to keep you hand off of the sprue handle. I also found out that squeezing too hard on the mold handles can cause the farthest cavities to open up as well. Keep some pressure on the handles but not too much.

[Foto Joe]

My alloy temp runs between 725° & 750° and I'll probably pull it down to around 700° and see how that works. I did find out the hard way about keeping my mitts off that sprue handle but thanks for the heads up.

I just ran what I cast through the lube sizer just for grins and to see how the .362" boolits fed into a .358 H&I die. Turns out it works great, of course that could have something to do with the fact that they aren't even 24 hours old yet but I think this is gonna work out good. I think that I've bought my last 2 cavity Lee mold.

[fecmech]

Now you have to get a star lubrisizer to keep up with he mold:kidding:

[prs]

Use an old toothbrush dampened and with some Comet cleanser to clean the faces and cavities. Like above said, inspect or lead splatter on faces and use a common bamboo barbecue skewer to pick it off. Then your dawn and good hot rinse. Stay off the spru handle and use a polite handshake grip on the handles. I think 700F gives the best result, but I like lightly frosted boolits. My pace is just right when the first cavity poured is just beginning to freeze when the last is being topped-up. Enjoy!

prs

[John Boy]

Also, I'm gonna have to use a wet rag to keep the mold cool from the looks of it. A six cavity mold even if the boolits are only 120gr will get extremely hot. So much so that even after the sprue hardens and frosts you can still have molten alloy under that sprue plate.

My alloy temp runs between 725° & 750° and I'll probably pull it down to around 700° and see how that works.

And lastly I was surprised at how big the boolits drop out of this so-called .356 mold. The weights are right on the money (123gr +/-) but the boolits are dropping at .360-.362 which kind of surprised me. Alloy is COWW +2% tin.
Four to 6 thousands? It's either you or the mold. Something is not jiving

Joe, based on your words - your new to casting! Read these how to articles ...
http://www.longrangebpcr.com/8Phases.htm
http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm

[Foto Joe]

Actually, not exactly new to casting. Just new to 6 hole molds, I've got many thousands of boolits cast over the last two years mostly large bore handguns so I am rather new to itty bitty 120gr boolits you might say.

As far as the 4-6 thousandths over I was kinda surprised by that but on another thread I started about this mold before I bought it users stated that it did drop a substantially larger diameter than advertised. So far the 100 that I put through the lube sizer (4500) sized very nicely. Since my alloy is 12-13 BHN I don't think it's going to be an issue. On the other hand if I water dropped and let 'em age for a couple of weeks I might get a workout on the lube sizer. Since water dropping isn't necessary for 9mm sized .358 that won't be an issue.

I've avoided 6 cavity molds in the past but my wife has already stated that it looks like I'll have some 2 cavity molds for sale in the near future. We'll see.

[zuke]

I ended up using my old 10lb LEE pot to premelt lead for my 20lb LEE pot when I started to use 6 cavity mold's. THAT sped thing's up!

[zomby woof]

You're lucky. My LEE 356-120 dropped at .356" and my bore is .357". A little lapping and I'm good to go.

[zuke]

You're lucky. My LEE 356-120 dropped at .356" and my bore is .357". A little lapping and I'm good to go.

Have you tried a slightly alloy?

[fryboy]

i wouldnt state your "last two cavity mold" as there's many designs they do not make in 6 cavity ( bummer that i know but ...)

[harley45]

I like the 6 cavities for casting target and plinking loads, I think I have one for each of my favorite shooters! They hold up well for thousands of rounds if you aren't ham handed and rough on them. I just got one for my 45 Colt that I actually think may also work as a decent hunting boolit. Enjoy yours and good luck with your future purchases!

[dkf]

Anyone know of a dimensioned drawing of the 120gr TC bullet? Wondering how it would work in .357sig.

[fecmech]

Anyone know of a dimensioned drawing of the 120gr TC bullet?

I don't have a drawing but can give you dimensions. Bullet length is .565" with a very slight bevel base. Bearing surface is approx .330" with a .100" lube groove. The bearing surface tapers to a .200 meplat.
Pretty close to: http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=35-122C-D.png With no step ahead of the drive band as this one has.

[bangerjim]

Your wrinkles were NOT caused by lack of cleaning......but from a cold mold. Heat it up to CASTING TEMP (not just warm) and you will see perfect boolits the 1st drop. I do it all the time with brand new non-cleaned molds! Proven many times by many on here.

I love Lee molds and have many of them. I go from casting hot melt glue boolits with PAM as a release agent right back to lead with NO degreasing......just wipe the PAM off.

banger

[dkf]

I don't have a drawing but can give you dimensions. Bullet length is .565" with a very slight bevel base. Bearing surface is approx .330" with a .100" lube groove. The bearing surface tapers to a .200 meplat.
Pretty close to: http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=35-122C-D.png With no step ahead of the drive band as this one has.

Thanks. So it sounds like the nose is under .250" long which should be ok.