Reday to take the plunge - need some advice

[mugsie]

I know - save yourself and don't do it! Well, never one to back away from anything I decided I'm going to start casting - hooray! This weekend I'll melt down my first batch of WW's into ingots. So here's the problem. I'm looking at the Lyman lubisizer, Cabellas has the kit for $134.00. Is this a good unit? Will it suffice? Also, I'll probably start by casting for my 44 caliber, then 45LC then 357's. What molds do you all recommend? What's good to start with? I'll probably be ladeling since that's what the above Lyman kit comes with, but I need to purchase molds. I'll also need to purchase a top punch too I guess. Can you give me a couple of hints here? I've read just about everything there is to read but I'd like to hear it from some of the people who are doing it too.

Thanks for the help and I can't wait to get started this weekend.

:-D

[GrizzLeeBear]

The Lyman kit is OK, but be prepared to buy a bigger pot soon. You will quickly outgrow that little pot and want to go to a bottom pour for faster casting. When you do, I would recommend the Lee 20 lb. Production pot 4-20.
Lyman, RCBS, Lee all make good molds. For pistols that you will be shooting a lot (and you will once you find out how fun it is to shoot your own cast boolits) I have started to become a real fan of the Lee 6 cavity aluminum molds (just got a new one in the mail yesterday!). You can make a lot of boolits in a hurry and the aluminum molds don't wear you out like a heavy 4 cavity steel mold during a long casting session. Don't get me wrong though, I actually like steel molds, too. I think they are actually easier to cast with, just heavier, and work just fine for boolits that you don't shoot as many of.
Heres a little trick for a top punch. All my pistol (and some rifle) molds are flat nose. Take a 1/4" x 1 1/2" (or 2") hex bolt and cut off the threaded portion. Depending on what the face of the head looks like, you may have to file it flat. Also, I file off the corners to make the head round so it will actually go down into a .358 die (for those really short boolits). Once you get the corners rounded you can chuck it in a drill & run it against a file in a vise to finish it. You can use this top punch for any flat nosed boolit.

[garandsrus]

Mugsie,

I would suggest the Lee 20 lb. Production pot 4-20 also... Even if you ladle, the extra capacity helps out a lot.

I also use a lot of Lee 6 cavity molds and they are a great value. I also use Lyman and RCBS steel molds. Start with a two cavity to get used to the process of casting and then branch out as you feel comfortable.

The Lyman/RCBS sizers work fine. The Lee push through sizers work great also and are the cheapest way to get started. The Star is the premiere sizer, but of course costs more.

John

[Powderpacker]

I agree with all of the above. If you would rather not make your own top punch, just get a top punch for the largest boolit you plan to cast and that should also work with the smaller boolits as long as they all have flat points .

[black44hawk]

As a Latin teacher my pockets aren't too deep. If you are frugal you may want to look at the Lee line of casting supplies. Don't believe the hype that they are of poor quality, I've been dissatisfied only once and Lee replaced the mold. Their sizing dies are nose first swaging dies that fit in your reloading press (again, cheap with no top punches to bother with) however, they do necessitate the smearing on of lube by hand.

[Woodwrkr]

If you're going to try using the Lee sizing dies, I would suggest pan lubing instead of trying to smear the lube on by hand. Cobble up a cookie cutter from a fired brass shell casing and some sort of plunger. It's a lot faster than smearing lube on with your fingers.