A few noob questions, I promise I read the stickies!

[adanymous]

Hey guys, I have been lurking here for a bit and have come up with a few questions I can't find answers for...But I guess to be polite I should introduce myself first.

My name is Dan, I have been casting "boolits" for probably 10 years intermittently with limited success. I actually got my dad into it which he took way farther than I ever did, and now Im back to being interested. I mold RB for all my BP rifles, and I have a pretty fair collection if I do say so and have had great success with them. I actually won a flintlock shoot a week or so ago with some home cast RB in a carolina style FL! I have even cast a few solid 18k gold bullets and some silver too (lost wax, I know it doesn't really count, but they're really loaded!)

So here is where my interest re-peaked in casting. I have a 300 aac, my research says that at sub sonic speeds bullets won't expand, however a long heavy bullet from a 1/8 barrel will lose stability after any sort of impact and begin to tumble, thereby imparting more damage to the target. I want to hunt with the rifle (just for kicks) and I don't want a clean pass through, so it seems this is my best option. This is a short list of my equipment to prevent unnecessary future questions. I bought the PB 247gr 4 cavity mold from NOE, the man there said I would not need gas checks at sub 1050 velocities, so I bought his recommended mold. Im very happy with it, its a beautiful mold and works way better than my lee RB molds. I bought a lee 20 lb bottom pour pot, haven't gotten it yet. Lyman 4500 heated lube sizer. No dies yet, waiting on my cerrosafe to show up. Nearly endless supply of range mined lead. I guess I need WW so Ill start looking.

questions in order of importance.

1. What the heck does that abbreviation you guys use for your wife mean?

2. I saw a sticky where a guy fixed a "wobbly goblin" lee mold for another guy, and he spent a good few lines grumping about whacking the sprue plate with a stick to cut sprues. Whats the better method?

3. Do I need a BNH tester, and if so whats a decent one for a reasonable cost. Im a big fan of accuracy and I know consistency is important to that

4. My pot is not temp controlled, cause RCBS is $$$. Will an infrared thermometer do a good enough job

5. Where do I find the OP of gluelits, Id like to hi five him. I laughed for a WHILE

6. I think I don't need gas checks, but find them intriguing and my lube sizer came with seating stuff for them, so I may load some 308 30-30 stuff in the future. However half the fun of this is making your stuff, so...can I make gas checks, if yes can you link me to that thread.

7. On my dads recommendation I bought lyman orange magic. 2 tubes, I see that nobody here uses it..... Should I chuck it and try the FWFL or Bens Red, or just shoot my store-bought stuff? Home made is more fun!

I probably have more but thats all I can think of. Thanks for all the stickies, it gave me a week or so worth of quality reading. Great site, and lots of obviously knowledgeable people, especially the gluelits guy, he's a genius!

OH one more thing. Somewhere I came across a post mentioning home made smokeless powder. I doubt Id attempt it, but found it very interesting, is there a thread about that? I couldn't find it.

[Jupiter7]

1/8 will not create the instability that creates immediate tumbling. 1/10 will.

[tomme boy]

Your lube, just use it. Then look into Lars Carnauba Red. You will have to use heat to use it, but it will be way cheaper to use this instead of the Lyman lube. Or just set the Lyman stuff to the side and just order up some CR. It will be cheaper than making lube also.

[retread]

I tried several homegrown lubes. Most worked fairly well. Ben's Red worked well for me but a little sticky to handle. I tried TAC-1 from randyrat here on the forum and that is all I use anymore. Works well for me and the price is good. A lot better and cheaper than the commercial lubes IMHO.

[Catshooter]

Welcome to the site young fella.

Most importantly, do you mean SWMBO? She Who Must Be Obeyed if that's the one you're thinking of. :)

I cast for years without a BHN tester but I do like having one now. Handy.

An infrared thermometer will not work on molten lead or most any other reflective surface. The laser gets reflected, you see. :)

I'm not a fan of most any lube other than LARs 2500. This I like and use in both pistol and rifle. I particularly don't like lubes you have to heat.

That's all I have for you, others will along shortly.


Cat

[35 shooter]

On #6 and 7...yes you can make gas checks. I just use the little hammer tool by free-chex, or you can go all out with a press type. I'm using Ben's Red lube for rifle shooting now with zero complaints. Felix lube is great and r5r's simple lube is very easy to make and a very good lube as well.
You can use the search feature here on how to make gas checks or lube, and come up with a ton of info on that.
Lots of folks use a gloved hand instead of whacking the sprue plate with a mallet. I use a mallet, but gently as i can.

Welcome to the site.

[Bullwolf]

My responses in blue




My name is Dan, I have been casting "boolits" for probably 10 years intermittently
questions in order of importance.

1. What the heck does that abbreviation you guys use for your wife mean?

SWMBO = She Who Must Be Obeyed.

2. I saw a sticky where a guy fixed a "wobbly goblin" lee mold for another guy, and he spent a good few lines grumping about whacking the sprue plate with a stick to cut sprues. Whats the better method?

I like to cut my Sprues by hand using a leather glove, some like to hit the mould with a stick, or a rawhide mallet, it's all personal preference.

3. Do I need a BNH tester, and if so whats a decent one for a reasonable cost. Im a big fan of accuracy and I know consistency is important to that

I rarely have used a hardness tester. I cast fine boolits for well over 20 years before ever using a hardness tester or a thermometer. They can help, but are not required to cast boolits well.

4. My pot is not temp controlled, cause RCBS is $$$. Will an infrared thermometer do a good enough job

IR thermometers do not read shiny surfaces like melted lead very well or accurately. You want a lead thermometer you can put into the melt to get any sort of an accurate temperature measurement with.

5. Where do I find the OP of gluelits, Id like to hi five him. I laughed for a WHILE

Would probably have to check out the Gluelits sticky to give credit where it is due.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?17577-Casting-hot-glue-boolits

6. I think I don't need gas checks, but find them intriguing and my lube sizer came with seating stuff for them, so I may load some 308 30-30 stuff in the future. However half the fun of this is making your stuff, so...can I make gas checks, if yes can you link me to that thread.

Scroll down the board till you find the Gas Check's header just underneath Coatings and Alternatives, or you can use this link
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?60-Gas-Checks
I hear many are quite pleased with the Pat Marlin check maker, and there are a few other popular check makers to be found there as well.

7. On my dads recommendation I bought lyman orange magic. 2 tubes, I see that nobody here uses it..... Should I chuck it and try the FWFL or Bens Red, or just shoot my store-bought stuff? Home made is more fun!

I have used Lyman Orange Magic lube with a few different pistol cartridges. It works fine for me with my Lyman Lube Sizer. I had good results particularly in 9mm and 357 (358311 & 356402) using Lyman Orange Magic - See the attached photo below. A few of the folks here are quite fond of it. You could probably unload it easily if you try it out and find that you don't like it here on Cast Boolits.

I probably have more but thats all I can think of.
OH one more thing. Somewhere I came across a post mentioning home made smokeless powder. I doubt Id attempt it, but found it very interesting, is there a thread about that? I couldn't find it.

Not too sure about homemade smokeless powders. I have seen threads about reloading primers, and some dangerous easy to set off powders made from strike anywhere matches like Armstrong's mixture. I would not recommend playing around with these as they are quite easy to set off accidentally, but they are educational to read about I suppose. If you have to go that route I would try getting my feet wet first using the holy Black Powder. You can scroll down to the Black Powder sections of Cast Boolits, or search for a "How to make your own Black Powder" thread like the one linked below.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?182063-Make-black-powder





356402 TC (Truncated Cone) 9mm with Lyman Orange Magic lube

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52370&d=1304738207

Welcome to the site


- Bullwolf

[adanymous]

Thanks for the answers guys.
I guess Ill try the Orange Magic, if it works Ill use it, if not I guess lesson learned.
SWMBO is what I was talking about. I guess thats an effective name for her as any. Though I disagree with the spirit of the name! (Don't tell her)
Sucks about the IR thermometer, I thought I finally found a use for that damned thing.
I never tried cutting sprues by hand, I guess I will...but I bet I go back to the stick whacking thing. Seems like tempting fate to me.
Those are great looking boolits bull wolf, Im jealous! Hope mine goes that well.
Any info on a good affordable BHN tester?

[Wayne Smith]

If you have never read H. Ryder Haggard you don't know the spirit of the name! I use LOML, for Love of My Life.

[Thumbcocker]

A quick easy lube that has worked for me up to 2000 fps is 50% lithium grease and 50% bees wax.

[adanymous]

If you have never read H. Ryder Haggard you don't know the spirit of the name! I use LOML, for Love of My Life. I have not, so I guess I don't!

[adanymous]

Oh and the home made smokeless thing was just for kicks, Im not gonna do it. I have a fairly thorough understanding of BP as Im a pretty big muzzle loader shooter. Ive just never seen anything about making smokeless, so it was interesting.

[44man]

Been casting things for over 61 years and I cut with a heavy stick I cut from hard wood, it has a big end on it. The thing is that you don't WHACK the plate, just little taps to make little cuts.
The best pot I have is the Lee 20# and I use a Lyman ladle.
Felix is the best lube and Ben's Red is great in rifles. Ben's is a little harder to make but a batch is enough for a LOOOOONG time and is cheap. I never had much luck with Orange Magic.
About hunting penetration, you want it and at your velocity with a decent meplat or a tad of expansion it will go through. penetration is more important then you think. There is no such thing as "energy dump."

[adanymous]

About hunting penetration, you want it and at your velocity with a decent meplat or a tad of expansion it will go through. penetration is more important then you think. There is no such thing as "energy dump."
The thing with 300 AAC at subsonic is nearly zero expansion, so you end up with a .30 cal wound channel and nearly no temporary wound channel. So while I agree penetration is key, so is wound channel. And a sideways bullet should make a nice one!

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Many casters use their hand to get the sprue plate/cutter to cut the sprue. It works and works well. Others use a variety of tools to do the job; usually a thick dowel of hardwood, a plastic hammer, a leather or rawhide hammer such as the type used in leathercraft, a "mold-mallet" such as sold by RCBS which is in effect a fancy dowel and a lead or lead faced hammer. The object is to not harm the sprue plate or ding it in any way.....which is exactly what will happen if an ordinary hammer or steel/iron tool is used. The term "whack" is annoying to me because it suggests rough treatment; whacking is not necessary, nor is "beating", "hammering" or "pounding".....tapping sounds a lot better and a tap or two is or at least should be all that is necessary to cut the sprue. Molds should not be subject to stress if you want them to last a long time. Mold blocks should never be struck by anything. If a bullet does not drop easily then the hinge that holds the handles together can be tapped lightly and the bullet should fall out....if it doesn't then there is another type of problem present that should be investigated and corrected. There is a lot of info on mold care that can be researched on this forum that can help lengthen the lives and good performance of molds. LLS

[Old Caster]

The best BHN tester is probably the Cabine Tree and the second best in the LBT. On the molds that I have to hit because of their shape like an Accurate mold I use a dead blow hammer which has a face about 1 1/4 inches in diameter made out of a plastic that is a little bit soft. It is holding up well. I also use it to hit the pivot of the handles to make bullets drop. For some of my molds I use a pliers to slowly open the mold instead of hands because I won't wear gloves to cast and I also pick up the sprue and immediately put it back in the pot. I think a slow cut does a better job than a whack. On RCBS molds, I have extended the sprue handle by welding another piece of metal on it so my pliers won't bump against the mold when I open it. A 4 cavity Lyman has to be hit also because of the way it is made and even if I hit the sprue plate to open it, I use the pliers to put the sprue back in the pot.

[Wayne Smith]

I wear one welding glove. I have a couple of molds - four cavity - that I have to use something other than my hand initially, for the first three or four casts, but then can open it with my gloved hand and drop the sprue back into my pot - gas fired, ladle cast. All the other molds my gloved hand is all that is needed to cut the sprue. It really is a timing thing.

[Echo]

If you have never read H. Ryder Haggard you don't know the spirit of the name!

And "Rumpole of the Baily" w/Leo McKern as Rumpole used it, sometimes shortening it to "She Who Must..."

[prs]

I use my gloved hand to open spru plates. When starting out, the plate or whole mold may be to cool to allow it. In that case I simply dump the boolits and refill the mold & repeat until the heat is sufficient to open the plate by hand. Those boolits are kept, the ones cast cooler are re-melted. When opening, timing is everything. The plate should open sort of like how a crisp trigger breaks -- a little snap is felt. If it just sides open, its too hot, wait a few seconds longer. If it takes more than just a little pressure from your gloved thumb, it needs more heat. Doing it this way will help assure that the mold and plate were at same temp for all boolits and thus the size/weight of the produce will be very consistent.

Get a casting thermometer or shop for PID controller. Some are very reasonable and plug'n play with the Lee pots.

prs

[country gent]

I yse a small plastic cap hammer to cut sprues and the occasional taps to free a sticky bullet. But I dont describe my use of the hammer as a hit on the sprue plate, Its more of a push threw the sprue. My sprue plates are all the heavier sprue plates (A couple are a full 1/4" thick that I made). I also ladle cast using a rcbs ladlewith the spout opened up to just over .200 in size. My sprue plates are vented and single cavity. I dont pour for a sprue but dip a full ladle of hot metal from the bottom of the pot and "spill" a small amount back into pot. Then pour the bullet empting the ladle full of metal letting it run down the vent back into the pot. This keeps the base and bullet molten much longer and a very consistent sprue is formed every time. I cast 400-575 grn bullets normally. I get very consistent results very sharp square bases good wieght and nice form doing this. It is slower but Im after quality not quanity. My bullets get used out to 500 yds and I get the best results this way. Consistency is the key to making good bullets Do every step the exact same way every time with the same alloy and you will get consistently good bullets. ANother big help is a notebook and what works for each mold and also what doesnt. Keep detailed notes and use them.

[11B-101ABN]

You can get a PID controller with 40 amp Solid State Relay and a Thermocouple good to 750 deg. F. for $18.00 with free shipping on ebay. The thermocouple will be marginal for boolitt casting, but for another $6.00 you can get one that goes to 1000 deg. F. If you don't use it for a controller, it makes a nice thermometer. They are not difficult to set up if you like to tinker, there's also a guy on this forum selling completed units.

[Moonie]

I normally use my gloved hand on smaller molds, my Lee 6 cav's have the cutter handle. For the times when my hand isn't enough I use a claw hammer, gripping the claw and using the wooden handle to do the tapping.

Lead most certainly can expand at slower velocities, the key is the proper alloy for the speed of the projectile. Obviously water quenched WW metal isn't going to expand at 1,000fps, but other alloys can do so very well.