lube for the saeco

[swabbie]

new to casting but not reloadin(12 years).Snagged a Saeco off evil bay for $65.00.Got a lee bottom pour pot comin.just signed up on group mould buy for fat 30
6 cavity lee for my SMLE's and Mosins.
Still need some more gear(have to budget it over next couple of months while waitin for the mould.
Cleaned all the gradoo out of the Saeco.waitin on bullet design and bore slugging to order top punch and sizing dies.Downloaded Saeco instructions and still don't understand em:confused:,but Have a dillon 550 and square deal and If I can figure them out,I think I can get the Saeco to work.
Question is lube.I know you get what you pay for,but is Jakes's Cerasin.(ebay )any good?
Also...should I borrow some buddies turkey frier(shrim/crawfish boiler in MS) to melt down scrap lead..wheel weights,etc first before I put it inta the Lee bottom pour?
All advice/abuse mostly appreciated:drinks:

Swabbie

[miestro_jerry]

Swabbie,

There are many on this forum and other forums that make lube. Use the turkey fryer for melting lead. You may want to try 50/50 (beeswax and ALOX) or one of the many types that these fine folks make.

I make my own because I cast a billzion bullets ever so often, size, lube, determine load, then load up for the next 2 to 3 years. The boolits and the loads are consistant for that period of time. I just finished up a 8 pound metal canister of 231, not the new plastic types. Now I have to buy the plastic ones. When I buy powder and stuff, I generally buy enough for 5,000 rounds for each caliber that I shoot regularly and for 1,500 for the occasional weapons that I shoot.

I don't know much about the Saeco lubers, I use a Star Sizer, the Dillon Square deal is really simple to use, it's a true progressive, the 550 you have to turn by hand.

Good Luck,

Jerry

[454PB]

Our members sell this so cheap, it's hard to justify making your own lube:

http://www.lsstuff.com/index.html

http://bullshop.gunloads.com/

In general, it's best to smelt in a separate pot. For small scale smelting, it can be done in the casting pot. It depends on how cruddy the scrap lead is.

[bishopgrandpa]

Jake's works fine as does Lars (address in previous post). Bullshop has good stuff and you can make your own. I am lazy and am satisfied with what I can buy. Some though get quite passionate about making their own.

[Marshal Kane]

. . . Question is lube.I know you get what you pay for,but is Jakes's Cerasin.(ebay )any good?
Also...should I borrow some buddies turkey frier(shrim/crawfish boiler in MS) to melt down scrap lead..wheel weights,etc first before I put it inta the Lee bottom pour?
All advice/abuse mostly appreciated:drinks:

Swabbie
Yes, Jake's cerasin works for me. I'm using the purple hard lube in my Star lubrisizer with a Lyman heater. You might start off with a minimum order to see if your like it. That's what I did and ended up buying a dozen sticks.

Best to melt down your scrap lead in your buddies turkey frier rather than trying to do the same in your Lee bottom pour. Scrap lead comes with all kinds of crud which you don't want to introduce into the Lee. Just make sure when you are smelting down the scrap that you are using an iron pot or a heavy gauge steel pot. Do no use an aluminum pot. Smelting temperatures will cause aluminum to weaken and fail eventually. Flux your alloy thoroughly before casting into ingots. Best wishes.

[swabbie]

ty for info so far.any other tips welcome as well

[Morgan Astorbilt]

Years ago, I replaced my Rooster Zambini with Jakes Scarlet Ceresin. Works just as well.
Morgan

[hotwheelz]

+1 more for jakes being good Im using the "Moly" blue lube works fine.

[mtgrs737]

I use the BAC I get from Lar's at the bottom of this page. Fine product and fine people to deal with, what more could you ask for?

[jklein_1968]

Great info and pointers. Thanks

[Lloyd Smale]

I make my own but its very hard to justify the work when you can buy lars lube just as cheap as you can make it yourself.