Caster Design.....Winter project

[Labanaktis]

Here is a caster I'm reverse engineering. Should be a fun little project. Hope to have a working prototype this winter.

going to do a little in my spare time.

[MrWolf]

I don't see any pictures of the project.

[Labanaktis]

here we go

[HollowPoint]

I don't get it. I mean, I understand the SolidWorks software. That's the CAD software I use but, I'm not getting the "Caster Design."

Could you elaborate a little further? I love seeing new ideas; wether I understand them or not.

HollowPoint

[Labanaktis]

I don't get it. I mean, I understand the SolidWorks software. That's the CAD software I use but, I'm not getting the "Caster Design."

Could you elaborate a little further? I love seeing new ideas; wether I understand them or not.

HollowPoint


I am going to first reverse engineer it and cost it out. I will make some changes to the barrel cam design to make the moulds position better at 12 o'clock. There is wobble with the current design. The frame needs more clearance to get the orfis to center on the plates better to. Easy fix there.... It's just a fun project. I have a couple of friends that would like one to. Just cheaper to make on your own. I'm not reinventing the wheel here, it's already been done a few times.....

I have a company in the packaging industry. We tool filling and capping machines for different size bottles. That's where I use Solidworks. It's handy and easy to check designs in context with each other.

Just sharing with the forum. If people have any other ideas feel free to post them. It's a well designed caster already.

M

[MGnoob]

He's reverse engineering the balisticast manual caster......whether it will be automated or manual is unclear.I also find i hard believe you'll be able to make it cheaper than you can buy it.....
ballisicast's deluxe manual caster is less than $3000 and uses 2 brand name blowers and the same electronics as everyone else, as-well as there 100lb pot is half of the cost of the caster.
i understand how easy it is to say i can make that cheaper not counting your own time.......obviously anyone could build that frame but there alittle more too it than just that
Also take into account that anything you'll save will more than likely be less than the cost of one 4 set of molds.

Not to be discouraging, hey go for it.. i just think the effort would be better spent automating a ballisticast manual machine......but my manual really cranks them out consistent and easily.

If your going 4 mold defiantly go with a 100lb pot and even with a 2 mold 40lb pot at-least wire it 240v or you'll regret it.
Also when you build it add legs to that frame so you have a sturdy mount with chutes to drop projectile sprue wast into 2 different bins or water-drop bucket for projectiles.
i'm not sure what your upgrading from but you'll need larger ingot molds unless you buy pigs.

[Labanaktis]

He's reverse engineering the balisticast manual caster......whether it will be automated or manual is unclear.I also find i hard believe you'll be able to make it cheaper than you can buy it.....
ballisicast's deluxe manual caster is less than $3000 and uses 2 brand name blowers and the same electronics as everyone else, as-well as there 100lb pot is half of the cost of the caster.
i understand how easy it is to say i can make that cheaper not counting your own time.......obviously anyone could build that frame but there alittle more too it than just that
Also take into account that anything you'll save will more than likely be less than the cost of one 4 set of molds.

Not to be discouraging, hey go for it.. i just think the effort would be better spent automating a ballisticast manual machine......but my manual really cranks them out consistent and easily.

If your going 4 mold defiantly go with a 100lb pot and even with a 2 mold 40lb pot at-least wire it 240v or you'll regret it.
Also when you build it add legs to that frame so you have a sturdy mount with chutes to drop projectile sprue wast into 2 different bins or water-drop bucket for projectiles.
i'm not sure what your upgrading from but you'll need larger ingot molds unless you buy pigs.

We have all the equipment to build them. Mills, lathes, EDM, and Broaching equipment. It's just a fun project. Might not save anything? It might be cheaper to buy direct. I can tell you the fans are around $100 ea for the industrial version from J&D.

100 lb pot is truly the only way to go

the 4 position I am currently running is nice.

[HollowPoint]

I had to do an internet search of the Ballisticast machines. After seeing some pics I have a better idea of what shooting for.

Best of luck to you. I hope it turns out even better than you envisioned.

I love this kind of stuff.

HollowPoint

[Labanaktis]

Mine is set up with 124gn no lube groove 9mm. I just got the new moulds. Haven't tried them yet. It would be nice having another setup for 45.

[MGnoob]

So is this going to be automatic or manual???

Unfortunately on the balisticast machine their electrical enclosure blocks the main shaft on the left side on the machine, which unless relocated prevents the kind of clean install i had hoped for, retaining manual operation. The handle "cap" is thick and has a single hole in the center. i was going to drill and counter bore off-center(from the inside out) for a 1/4 or 3/8 allen cap head bolt. using this new stud to auto-drive the unit using the stock one-way bearing rachet thing. I worry about damaging the center bolt which is left hand thread....i wanted to change that bolt to maybe a nylon or plastic bolt, but it would be hard to find one. that way if it/when it breaks it won't damage the main shaft.....it's either this or run a clutch similar to the warren and ponsness autodrive.
Driving it from the handle itself would make for an awkward install...driving from the cap the handle wouldn't even move in auto and allow you to clear jams or change the molds manually and during warm-up/star-up procedures.

Air Pneumatic would be cheaper, simpler more flexible allowing different speeds for different molds..or even a start-up mod.(about $500 without an air compressor)
Electric would be more expensive and would have less adjustibility, but be more efficient (about $1000-$1200)

[Labanaktis]

It will be a manual. I have no need for an auto. Its plenty fast as is. Mine seems finicky at times. I just got the new 9mm 124gn no lube groove moulds in. I gotta get this finished and back together to try them out. I was having issues with the pot... it was not dropping a even, smooth flow. I have to look at that after its drawn up.

I have time thou... my form 4 was disapproved due to my name being where the trust name was supposed to be... it was E-Filed to... sux cus I had to re submit it as a long paper form 4.... I should have alot of 9mm ammo when my machine gun finally hits.

Matt

[MGnoob]

so funny, i received my form 4 a few weeks. i am waiting for my .223 molds to show up. i'm 3 weeks into a 6-8 week wait for the molds.
next weekend i should be accepted to my new club that will allow full auto, sucks i have to drive so far....
i'm going to run a 9mm conversion till my molds show up..after i burn the .223 i bought years ago when i bought my DIAS.

My pour spout never poured evenly and i spent alot of time trying to make it perfect only to discover it has more to do with how you pull the lead drop then how it's adjusted.

it may seem finicky at first the more you use it the better it gets, just ensure there's not binding between the "posts" and the sprue or accelerated wear will occur.

mine functions perfect now and i keep lowering the lead temp the lower the temp the faster you can cast.It's also crucial to make sure your molds are clean dry and free of oil or you have to run alot of junk first.. manual is definitely fast enough but i could run much longer sessions if i didn't have to pull the handle.

[Labanaktis]

I was looking at the Ruger KAC-556 Stainless Folder... Do you think casting 223 and coating them with HI-TEK would be problematic? I figured it's better to go with jacketed in a full auto 223... I have to move my DTA SRS covert A1 first...then I'm looking for the Ruger.

[MGnoob]

The epoxy coated .223 worked fine in semi, i see no reason why they wouldn't work full auto.
The only reason i copper plate them is so they feed through my sizer, presses and bullet feeders better
My epoxy never had a nice Finnish because it couldn't justify the time to standing them up.
Some of the powder-coat options would probably be less labor intensive and messy than epoxy.

EDIT
*To more answer your question IDK, i've never used hi tek but i would think it would work....isn't that stuff kind-of expensive?*