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forrest-hunter
07-20-2014, 10:51 AM
Thinking of using a portable table with a 1/4 plywood clamped to it to cast my bullets outside - can remove and store plywood and use table for other things - should this work ok. Also not clear on dumping the cast bullets from mold - should they be dumped on a damp towel? Do you refill the mold as soon as you drop the bullets or do you need to wait a few seconds to let it cool off? I am a little nervous with what any moisture would do with the molten alloy - was also nervous about reloading when I first started 35 years ago - can't wait to get all my equipment in.

trixter
07-20-2014, 10:59 AM
First make sure everything is very stable. You don't want the lead pot tipping over.
I use a really fluffy 100% cotton towel or two not so fluffy ones for the landing area for hot boolit right out of the mold (dry). I reload as quickly as possible to keep the mold hot. Hot molds cast nice boolits.
You'll do fine. Go for it!

mdi
07-20-2014, 11:10 AM
Yep, you want the table to handle, without wobbling, 100+ lbs.. Not that your pot and lead and tools will weigh that much, but you want the table to be sturdy.

No need for a wet towel, a dry one is best. The bullets are still a bit soft when they fall out of the mold and the towel is just a soft spot for them to land without getting dinged up. Some may suggest "water quenching", but for now, K.I.S.S., and you don't need to harden your bullets. I don't wait between pours but when my mold gets too hot, I'll either slow down my rhythm, or set the mold down for a minute or two to cool a bit.

s mac
07-20-2014, 11:44 AM
I agree with the dry towel, I would think a damp towel would unevenly harden the part that cooled sooner. And let your mould tell you the cadence, an iron mould will hold the heat longer, may have to slow down a bit. Slightly frosted, but not too much.

bangerjim
07-20-2014, 11:58 AM
What table????????

I clamp my 4-20 pot right to my Workmate and cast away! Extremely sturdy. I have a brick to the right to lay the hot mold and stir spoon on so I will not burn the oak "jaws" of the Workmate.

I have a pan of water with a towel in it at the right on a small patio table to drop the freshly minted boolits in. An oil drip pan underneath catches any silver globs from sticking to the tile.

All folds up out of the way on the back patio.

Simple, functional, compact, neat.

Just start casting......you will get the feel of it fast, and all you questions will disappear. Nothing like REAL hands-on to eliminate "what-if's"

This is NOT rocket science. (more like brain surgery thru alcohol ingestion!!!!!!!!) HA........ha!

bangerjim

Mike Malat
07-20-2014, 12:12 PM
Like Bangerjim, I use an old workmate which I have clamped a piece of plywood to give me a bit larger work surface, but not by much. Enough for a Lee pot, a place to dump my sprue's into, a 9x11 brownie pan with a towel in it to dump the boolits and next to that a hot plate. Plywood size is approx 18x30. I'm using 1/2" plywood. With the weight involved you probably don't want to use anything thinner that could flex. Open the garage door, Move it outside and fire it up. A note. Don't be tempted by the summer heat to not wear long pants, shoes, etc. Yes it's hot but the lead is hotter.....

HeavyMetal
07-20-2014, 12:28 PM
Yep A workmate is the tool of choice for portability / storage.

Haunt yard sales I found a real nice old school METAL workmate a few years ago for Ten bucks, this was not one of the newer ones made from sheet metal "angle" iron but a very heavy stamped metal workmate.

Folds up in a hall closet when not in use can be used for other projects as needed to please SWMBO as needed, LOL!

beezapilot
07-20-2014, 03:51 PM
I built this cast cart from dump salvage- the wheels (all 4) have locking casters and the pot it bolted through the table top. All the tools, moulds, apron, gloves, goggles, etc are in the bottom of the cabinet. I roll it out and plug it in everything in one spot in one trip.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?238475-Cast-Cart

forrest-hunter
07-20-2014, 06:26 PM
Thanks for all the advice. The last question is should I order all lyman #2- I will be casting for rifle and pistol hunting bullets - also some wadcutters for pistol

500MAG
07-20-2014, 06:29 PM
As the others, I use a workmate. Although, I do sit on a rolling stool in case I need to push away quickly.

Pb2au
07-20-2014, 06:38 PM
Lyman #2 would do the trick for sure.
if you can hang tight, keep posting and wait a little, there exists many a fine member of the forum selling lead of many different favors in the swapping and selling section, at good prices I might add.
i beieve you need 20 posts to gain use of that area.
good luck!

rockshooter
07-20-2014, 06:48 PM
I use a rolling mechanics tool box with the pot bolted to the top- this gives me portability and storage space- and a little slopped lead doesn't hurt it!
Loren

dudel
07-21-2014, 10:15 AM
I cast on a small Sears roller tool cabinet It probably cost about what a workmate does. I added a plywood piece on top of the roller, then added some 45 degree cleats that my Lee pot slides into for stability. To cast, I roll it outside, slide the Lee pot into the cleats, power up and add lead. I put a small tray on top for the sprues. I also plug in the hot plate and start warming up the molds. I get a small bucket with water and towels ready by my side, for dropping boolits.

When everything has cooled off, the pot goes to the bottom cabinet, the molds got to the middle drawer, and spoons, skimmers, flux, thermometer to the top drawer. It locks if needed, and can be rolled around on it's wheels to put it away.

country gent
07-21-2014, 10:28 AM
Since my pot is free standing on its own my table is a simple easy folding aluminum camp table from walmarts, Its the right hieght for me with my pot inexpaensive and stable. All mine holds is the pan for sprues the paint pan with a towel for bullets some odds and ends tools when fluxing the thermometer and its mount. Works good and is easy to set up

725
07-21-2014, 10:38 AM
I use an industrial kitchen rolling tray/table. Covered in plywood to manage burn marks. Burner cleated in place. Many layered dry towels to catch hot boolits. Keep the mould hot (you'll find out by trial & error) how a hot mould works best. Pour a boolit, wait until the lead quickens over the sprue plate and tap the sprue plate aside. Open the mould and drop a boolit. Stand by, as this part of the hobby has the steepest learning curve. Ladle pouring vs bottom pour pots, pouring into a tipped mould vs one upright, and on and on ............. Trial & error is the best teacher. Don't be concerned if they aren't perfect right from the start. Try, try again. Remelt bad ones. Clean the mould well before use. Once the mould is hot, there is no concern about moisture as it will have evaporated. Wear gloves and eye protection. Hot lead is unforgiving. As long as you take stock of some basic safety items, just start. It's not rocket science but it is a motor skill that improves as you slide down the learning curve. Good luck.

Old Caster
07-21-2014, 04:03 PM
Continue to cast as fast as you can until you notice that your sprues become brittle and break when you open the mold. When this happens, you will also have a sort of wafer of lead left in the sprue plate holes. You must slow down at least enough for neither of these things to happen. Your speed will vary dependent on how many cavities, how large of a bullet, and what your alloy temperature is. It will become obvious rather quickly.