Leading Removal From Disaster

[jonp]

I posted this on the original thread asking "What am I missing" but wanted a stand alone for comments as this is not about getting the leading but removing it:

Alright. I have spent some time now scrubbing the leading from the barrel and it is giving me fits. I read the leading sticky but still have lead in the barrel.

I have tried: Copper ChoreBoy, Soaking in Kroil, Steel Wool, Hoppes 9, JB Borepaste, even Hydrogen Peroxide and Vinegar but still have leading left.

I read that using a filler of Cream of Wheat will help to get it out. I also read on a different board the same thing and several variations of this including using fine walnut media as a filler. I was thinking of using some Bullseye, cover with a piece of tissue paper and fill with walnut then seal the same as fireforming brass without a bullet. Anyone tried this?

I am also starting from square one. I am removing all melt from my pot and starting with pure COWW with some tin and making new boolits. The ones that I have I will save for my 45Colt.

[cainttype]

The Lewis Lead Remover kits have always been the fastest, most reliable tools for removing severe leading that I've seen. Being fully adjustable for a good, tight fit, the compession plugs work wonders very quickly.
Make sure to get plenty of the bronze patches. You'll tear them if you tighten the plugs too much, but they wear out eventually with use so you'll want spares.
Nothing I've seen is better or as fast for stripping lead out in chunks from handguns. They should have a place in everybody's range bag...to help your buddies, of course.

[leadman]

I have an Outer's Foul Out III that works great, but Outer's is not supplying the chemicals now.
I would try some of the Cream of Wheat as this will not hurt the bore. I think the walnut might scratch it. Puff Lon filler is also supposed to work well for removing lead along with jacketed bullets or gas checked boolits.
I have a long dental pick that I used to use for getting some of it out.
Have you plugged the bore and left the Hoppe's #9 in the bore overnight? I do this and it removes lots of stuff and does not harm the bore.

[Tatume]

The Lewis Lead Remover kits have always been the fastest, most reliable tools for removing severe leading that I've seen.

Although I'm a recent convert to copper Chore Boy, I concur with cainttype. The reason I like the Chore Boy is that I don't have to buy specifically sized devices for each caliber. Pretty much any caliber can be cleaned with a bore brush and Chore Boy.

http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=Lewis+Lead+Remover&ksubmit=y

I've used the Lewis Lead Remover for years in various handguns. If severely leaded, the device will pull out long curled strings of lead! It's amazing how well it works.

Take care, Tom

[a.squibload]

The Lewis Lead Remover works.
Or swab the barrel with Kroil or some light oil & let it sit overnight,
then use a tight brush with a patch over it to scrub.
Takes a minute but usually works.

[btroj]

Leading that can't be removed with steel wool and a snug fitting brush? Never had leading that bad. I find a few strokes, dry, with that set up removes leading fast. Might need a dry patch followed by more brushing but it will get the lead out.

[Pb2au]

Elbow grease, bore brush with bronze wool wrapped around it, and time.

[Stephen Cohen]

There was a time, when one would just fill barrel with mercury and let sit overnight. I have never, leaded a pistol bad enough to need more than a bronze brush and Hops. The one time I leaded a rifle bad I used the Mercury.

[Toymaker]

I hadn't severely leaded a barrel in some time. Some lead & copper fouling remover usually did the trick. Once in a while Casey's Lead Cloth was needed. UNTIL recently ........... 45 Colt looked like a lead mine. I spent an hour working on it and could seen no progress. I put away all the cleaning stuff, and went into the shop. First I carefully plugged the muzzle. Then I fashioned a rack to firmly hold the pistol muzzle down in a cup. Then I filled the bore with mercury. 24 hours later a couple of oiled patches made the bore look brand new.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Leading that can't be removed with steel wool and a snug fitting brush? Never had leading that bad. I find a few strokes, dry, with that set up removes leading fast. Might need a dry patch followed by more brushing but it will get the lead out.
THIS !!!
except I use a snug fitting brass Jag, a patch with a thin layer of 0000 steel wool.

Another trick is to "slug" the bore. I did that once with some extra stubborn lead fouling and it worked well.

[Tatume]

I have a 6" S&W Model 617-5 that leaded so badly that I couldn't get a cleaning rod in it. I had to send it back to the factory. They replaced the barrel under warranty.

[DougGuy]

OP what in the world are you shooting that is leading the bore so badly? Bad thread choke in the barrel? Cylinder throats way undersize? Lube too hard?

You may find the Rugers to take a liking to 50/50+2% WW/Pure/tin, both mine showed an immediate liking to this alloy in the 1100-1200f/s range.

[jonp]

OP what in the world are you shooting that is leading the bore so badly? Bad thread choke in the barrel? Cylinder throats way undersize? Lube too hard?

You may find the Rugers to take a liking to 50/50+2% WW/Pure/tin, both mine showed an immediate liking to this alloy in the 1100-1200f/s range.

I was using 50/50 + 2% and I have not an idea what is going on. Never seen anything like this. So far my mistakes have just taken some kroil and choreboy to rectify. It's very odd.

Larry Gibson suggests that I might not be looking at leading but rather antimonal wash due to a lack of tin. I am not finding many threads on this, what it looks like or how to get rid of it. Anyone point me in the right direction?

[jmort]

Probably not the best idea, but some gas checked boolits with Alox or soft blue. That or Lewis Lead Remover.

[cbrick]

Larry Gibson suggests that I might not be looking at leading but rather antimonal wash due to a lack of tin.

Nothing better than a borescope to know exactly what your looking at! Borescope = Priceless!

Larry's suggestion is spot on, won't help in getting rid of leading that you may have now but will help tremendously on down the road in preventing/reducing future problems. 20-25 years ago I started adding 2% Sn to my WW alloy and I just don't have many of the problems that many report here. Tin = Priceless!

Rick

[jmort]

I love tin, never considered "antimonal wash"


I use a lot of tin and really like 20 to 1 alloy as well as 94/3/3

[CaptainCrossman]

I posted this on the original thread asking "What am I missing" but wanted a stand alone for comments as this is not about getting the leading but removing it:

Alright. I have spent some time now scrubbing the leading from the barrel and it is giving me fits. I read the leading sticky but still have lead in the barrel.

I have tried: Copper ChoreBoy, Soaking in Kroil, Steel Wool, Hoppes 9, JB Borepaste, even Hydrogen Peroxide and Vinegar but still have leading left.

I read that using a filler of Cream of Wheat will help to get it out. I also read on a different board the same thing and several variations of this including using fine walnut media as a filler. I was thinking of using some Bullseye, cover with a piece of tissue paper and fill with walnut then seal the same as fireforming brass without a bullet. Anyone tried this?

I am also starting from square one. I am removing all melt from my pot and starting with pure COWW with some tin and making new boolits. The ones that I have I will save for my 45Colt.


this is an old thread, but worth reviving, I was compelled to post a reply
in the past 15 years I've been salvaging old military and commercial barrels by acid dipping them, in 10% HCl
i.e. hydrochloric acid aka muriatic acid
without fail every single barrel was spotlessly clean when soaked overnight, many came out with MIRROR BORES, but these were salvage ops and didn't have to worry about bluing removal. if the barrel is on the action, it must be carefully plugged in the muzzle, filled with a funnel, taking care not to drip any acid on the bluing. that is tricky and hard to do, but I've done it before on my own guns. the results were a clean barrel, and accuracy regained, whereby it didn't need a new barrel.
if the barrel is off, or the entire gun is being reblued anyway, just drop the barrel in the tank of acid, then take it out next day, and scrub with soft wire brush inside and out. again you have to wear goggles, old clothes, heavy gloves, cuz 10 HCl will damage your hands with long exposure.
what comes out of these barrels is nothing short of amazing when first running the brush through the bore- after doing over 100 of them this way, I've only "lost" 3,
that were so badly corroded to begin with inside, that there was hardly any rifling left after stripping away the rust, powder residue, lead, copper. all 3 were milsurp MAUSER 98's from the corrosive primer era. a 4th with a bad barrel, I didn't even try to salvage, just had it rebored from 8x57 to 9x57.
btw don't toss your old barrels. they can be rebored to a larger caliber or wildcat, and lately there's a few shops with the lathes capable of doing this. the 2 I know of have a burgeoning business and are backlogged over 6 months each, as everyone is catching on to this. tossing an old barrel is an IQ test, do and and you flunked.

a mild acid won't pit barrels, what it does it remove the rust, powder residue, bullet residue that is filling pits that are already there. so it removes the window dressing and says "here's what you really have", like removing the bondo from an auto body repair.
if you put peroxide/vinegar on a clean barrel, NOTHING HAPPENS. it would have to sit in the tank for weeks months to corrode it very much. if you put 10% HCl or peroxide/vinegar on bare clean steel NOTHING HAPPENS. it doesn't start fizzing and eating a hole in the steel. it's not as strong as most are led to believe. those are old wives' tales.
let's face it, we drink this stuff and gargle with it and put it on our salads, it's not as strong as the horror stories claim
a low concentration acid dip will NOT pit a barrel, rather is will show pits that were covered with the barrel contaminants just mentioned. last summer I spent a week in hospital, and the staff there mop the floors of the entire hospital daily, with peroxide/vinegar solution. reason- it's less caustic than bleach, cheaper, and does just as good a job disinfecting/cleaning. this is a huge hospital with many wings, floors.
in all that time, I only had ONE 22lr rimfire barrel that was so leaded, HCl would not remove completely.
soaked that one for 8 minutes by plugging bore and filling with peroxide/vinegar solution, and a lot of brown lead acetate bubbled to the top
then I could see rifling again, after scrubbing it out in a tub with soap/water (used gloves, glasses for safety of course)
having said that, if you tried all this and there's still lead in the bore, something is awry, cuz the vinegar/peroxide would eat up any lead in the bore.
I just got done soaking 2 pump shotguns, and 2 rifles 22lr, where the actions were locked up solid, from a house fire long ago
water from putting out the fire eventually rusted the guns solid, they were laying on the ground outside the house for months, thought of as unsalvagable junk
I had to heat the action screws with a propane torch to get the screws out. after soaking each one overnight in HCl 10%, they are all white albeit showing the pits where there was heavy rust on the outside. the bores are clean ! the 2 shotguns are getting matte' blue jobs as I key this.
the bolt action 22 Marlin has a mirror bore after cleaning. the 22 falling block Page Lewis was leaded to death and needed a soak in peroxide/vinegar. now I can see grooves, lands, rifling in detail, but may soak it again. Before I soak it in peroxide/vinegar again, I'm going to plug the bore and fill it with Barnes TC-10. there's also M Pro 4 at Walmart now, that specifically says on the bottle, it cuts lead 4x faster than Hoppes. but that's not saying much as Hoppe's doesn't cut lead very good anyway. it's more of a power residue remover and barrel preserver, than a copper/lead remover. I've used the Barnes stuff before on a Dan Wesson pistol and it removed caked up lead around the forcing cone, but I had to keep applying and brushing it away with a stiff toothbrush. the Barnes stuff will burn and sting your hands when it splashes on them.

in my mind there's no leading out there that can withstand peroxide/vinegar. unless it's some sort of alloy someone cooked up that can't be broken down as easily as plain lead.

[44man]

I find it strange to go from 50-50 to even softer!
Maybe you should consider the other direction and a better FIT.
OH, I forgot, hard boolits lead bores!!!

[Motor]

The Lewis Lead Remover kits have always been the fastest, most reliable tools for removing severe leading that I've seen. Being fully adjustable for a good, tight fit, the compession plugs work wonders very quickly.
Make sure to get plenty of the bronze patches. You'll tear them if you tighten the plugs too much, but they wear out eventually with use so you'll want spares.
Nothing I've seen is better or as fast for stripping lead out in chunks from handguns. They should have a place in everybody's range bag...to help your buddies, of course.

I didn't read past this post without hitting the reply button. You really didn't need to read past it either. Just fallow the advice. :)

This isn't to say there wasn't good replies afterwards, I'm sure there was. ;)

Motor

[CaptainCrossman]

a leaded bore needs a good chemical stripper, IMHO it's a lot easier to dissolve something in the barrel, than scrape it out with abrasion.

same goes for earwax. a few drops of that earwax solution a day, which is basically oil and peroxide, and the wax is gone. it softens up and runs out of your ear

or, you can go to the doctor and have him pick away at it, dig at it, and irrigate it for 20 minutes, to get it out.

[CaptainCrossman]

I find it strange to go from 50-50 to even softer!
Maybe you should consider the other direction and a better FIT.
OH, I forgot, hard boolits lead bores!!!

you hit the nail there.
the softer the cast bullet, the more leading- that's a no brainer, logical deduction

[Mica_Hiebert]

Just shoot a box of jacketed bullets through it

[Tom W.]

I remember reading that Elmer Keith used to plug his rifle barrel and fill it with ammonia and let it soak overnight..

[CaptainCrossman]

Just shoot a box of jacketed bullets through it

that's worth a try. all these posts on the net raving about Choreboy copper scrub pads, and dissing firing copper jacketed bullets through instead- when in fact it's the same approach- they can't understand if it's copper that scrapes the lead out with the Choreboy pad material, then a copper jacketed bullet will do it too. and the bullet has a lot more oomph behind it than your arm pushing a cleaning rod through the bore. I'd try the copper jacketed bullets and see what happened.

[CaptainCrossman]

I remember reading that Elmer Keith used to plug his rifle barrel and fill it with ammonia and let it soak overnight..

Ackley also recommended a 28% ammonia/water solution for gun cleaning. worth a try, but plain ammonia also doesn't dissolve lead readily. not as well as peroxide/vinegar. I'd plug the barrel and fill it with 10% HCl overnight, then scrub, see what that does.

I gave this some thought and now I know why the OP was thinking of going softer on the lead % in his cast boolits.
it's not that they are too soft causing too much leading, because soft lead would be easier to remove.

it may be because, using a lot of tin made the leading HARDER TO REMOVE, so what lead is in there, is not coming out easily, because there's so much tin in it. peroxide/vinegar, ammonia, HCl will all have a hard time dissolving tin, it would take forever.

you could very well mix up your own batch of cast bullets, make them too hard, and end up having a worse leading problem than with soft bullets

the harder bullets may lead the bore less, but they will still lead it some per shot. then when it finally builds up after many more shots, that lead is going to be VERY HARD to remove.

this is why I never got into casting my own bullets, even though I inherited an oven and molds and scrap lead to melt down. I'd rather buy the bullets and trust their formulation, than make my own and have this problem. now I have more cast bullets than I can shoot, because it seems guys buy way more of these than they will ever shoot. must have a couple thousand here various calibers that I got for dirt cheap.

[CaptainCrossman]

casting your own bullets or buying them with a lot of antimony in them, will make the leading resistant to acids, because antimony resists acid.
so the peroxide/vinegar, HCl, etc. won't clean it out of there as easily.

from wikipedia

Antimony is a silvery, lustrous gray metal that has a Mohs scale (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale) hardness of 3. Thus pure antimony is too soft to make hard objects; coins made of antimony were issued in China's Guizhou (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guizhou) province in 1931, but because of their rapid wear, their minting was discontinued.[4] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimony#cite_note-4) Antimony is resistant to attack by acids.

and this, HCl doesn't touch antimony. you have to heat concentrated sulfuric acid, or nitric acid, to dissolve antimony. which is most likely what was in this barrel.
having seen this I'd not shoot cast bullets with a high content of antimony, cuz you may not be able to get it out of the bore later. sulfuric and nitric acid WILL eat your gun barrel, big time. you don't want to be anywhere near concentrated sulfuric or nitric, or the gases it gives off. unless it was a very, very weak solution of it, which won't dissolve the antimonmey- holy smokes I spilled some sulfuric battery acid from a car battery on my sidewalk, it ate the concrete down. back when I was a mechanic I'd fill batteries with it, and all my coats and shirts had holes eaten in them, from just a couple drops splashed on the sleeve.

Reaction of antimony with acidsAntimony dissolves in hot concentrated sulphuric acid, H2SO4, or nitric acid, HNO3, to form solutions containing Sb(III). The sulphuric acid reaction produces sulphur(IV) dioxide gas. Antimony does not react with hydrochloric acid in the absence of oxygen.

[dudel]

that's worth a try. all these posts on the net raving about Choreboy copper scrub pads, and dissing firing copper jacketed bullets through instead- when in fact it's the same approach- they can't understand if it's copper that scrapes the lead out with the Choreboy pad material, then a copper jacketed bullet will do it too. and the bullet has a lot more oomph behind it than your arm pushing a cleaning rod through the bore. I'd try the copper jacketed bullets and see what happened.

Not really the brush has bristles the bullet doesn't. What part of the bullet is going to push the lead out? What I've seen is that the shape of the bullet tends to "iron" the lead into the bore. As it passes over, it then polishes or smooth the lead out. Looks nice and clean; but it isn't. Take a Foul Out to it and watch the lead accumulate on the rod.

A gas checked boolit might work. It's got some scraping action going for it.

[CaptainCrossman]

I remember reading that Elmer Keith used to plug his rifle barrel and fill it with ammonia and let it soak overnight..

the ammonia soak is worth a try, looks like ammonia reacts with antimony.
I'd take a cast bullet, drop it in a cup of ammonia outside, see what happens
if it dissolves it, that would do it.
also test it on a junk barrel that is leaded

Aqueous Ammonia:
Sb(III) reacts with aqueous ammonia to precipitate white Sb(OH)3.

[djgoings]

Are you sure of your alloy? If not, there are a few members that may have the ability to test it and give you a report.

[CaptainCrossman]

Not really the brush has bristles the bullet doesn't. What part of the bullet is going to push the lead out? What I've seen is that the shape of the bullet tends to "iron" the lead into the bore. As it passes over, it then polishes or smooth the lead out. Looks nice and clean; but it isn't. Take a Foul Out to it and watch the lead accumulate on the rod.

A gas checked boolit might work. It's got some scraping action going for it.




the copper jacket of the fmj bullet is sealed to the bore a lot tighter than a Choreboy pad would be on a cleaning rod, no ?
it's a complete copper gas seal as the copper jacket travels down the bore, pushing the lead in front of it.
try to push a copper jacket bullet through a clean bore with a cleaning rod and hammer, see how hard it is
tell me that's not scraping the bore ? it's common sense, like piston rings wiping oil off the bore of an engine as it
runs.

the FMJ already IS a gas check- the entire jacket does what a gas check does on a cast bullet. for some reason, many cast bullet shooters forget that.

I'd fire the hardest copper FMJ bullets through it I could find, with the longest side surface, until the barrel got hot- copper is harder than lead or antimony, the latter would have to give as the copper slug was fired down the bore, and the lead softened up from the heat of successive firings.

but first I'd try the HCl soak, and then ammonia soak.
too much tin or antimony in a home-made cast bullet, obviously can create leading in a barrel that can't be removed by commercial or common home chemicals- evident from doing this research here.

vinegar/peroxide may be nasty effective on pure lead, but it doesn't even put a scratch in tin or antimony. the vinegar is much too weak of an acid.

another fact becomes evident- the reason the industry went from cast bullets, to jacketed bullets, was to avoid this leading problem in the first place- back in the late 1800's- early 1900's. cast bullets came back into vogue with the muzzleloader/cap ball resurgence in the 1950's, and as commercial jacketed ammo got increasingly expensive- esp. as of late.

but along with this cast bullet resurgence, the same old bore leading problems also return with a vengeance. this is why so many shooters have sold me their cast bullets for next to nothing. some literally gave them away. they got tired of the leading and cleaning issues.

I shoot them once in a while in my handguns, and save the rifle bullets for a possible SHTF scenario when any bullet will be like money-

as you can see, there's no free lunch

[44man]

Copper boolits CAN run over lead and iron it in tighter. It could also cause barrel damage.
It is like the old wives tale that a GC will scrape lead out.
Hard boolits do not cause leading, leading is gas leakage past the boolit that turns lube into FLUX. Once you get a little leading, the next boolit will get more of an uneven fit, etc. Gas cutting will get worse and it is easier to solder lead to lead.
Experiments with alloys up to 28-30 BHN has shown zero leading for me. You must restrain the gas above all else.

[44man]

I shoot PB boolits of 22 BHN from my big bores, .475 and .500. Recovered boolits show skid at the fronts but it stops before the base band so I still have a perfect seal.
My heavy, long .45 Colt boolits show no skid at all since pressures are lower.
One thing I did was to ignore all boolit design for the big bores and I made the base bands only .080" long. Do they upset for a better fit? I see no indications of it but it works for me. Recovered boolits look exactly as cast except for engraving from rifling.
Now I tried the TL stuff with poor results and I hate Alox in any form. Someone sent me soft boolits for my .44 that looked like they were rolled in moly or graphite. They were leading machines!
Back in 1956 I shot factory lead loads that were hotter then we ever load and had no problems. Rem was bare lead and WW was plated. I can tell you they made a guy blink when touched off. I had to shoot them to get brass.
Now it is common for me to shoot a gun 3 years or more without a barrel cleaning, I just keep the cylinders clean with fresh lube on the pins. I think the .475 is going on 5 years. I see some antimony wash on lands but it does no harm.

[dondiego]

Captain - Are you telling us here on CastBoollits that we can't shoot cast bullets without getting leaded bores?

[DougGuy]

that's worth a try. all these posts on the net raving about Choreboy copper scrub pads, and dissing firing copper jacketed bullets through instead- when in fact it's the same approach- they can't understand if it's copper that scrapes the lead out with the Choreboy pad material, then a copper jacketed bullet will do it too. and the bullet has a lot more oomph behind it than your arm pushing a cleaning rod through the bore. I'd try the copper jacketed bullets and see what happened.

You have totally missed the point. There is a HUGE difference in running a copper chore boy through a leaded and obstructed bore, and shooting a live round into a KNOWN obstruction.

Firing a few rounds of jacketed into a leaded bore will not remove all the lead instantly. WHERE do you suppose the give comes in if you shoot a .452" bullet into a bore that's choked down to .440" with lead? Does the bullet swage down and skip over the lead that it cannot budge? Does the lead get farther pressed into the bore by the bullet passing over it? I mean it's like a fat lady trying to get through a narrow doorway. Something has to give somewhere. You cannot put .452" worth of bullet and .005" or .010" or .090" worth of leading into a .451" space at the same time. Add x number thousands of pounds of pressurized burning gases behind this obstruction, and you definitely are creating a hazard by firing jacketed bullets into a leaded bore. Likely nothing will happen but it is a VERY EASY way to bulge a barrel and that HAS HAPPENED before and I do NOT recommend cleaning a leaded bore by firing more bullets into it. This creates a dangerous situation.

The proper thing to do is remove the lead with either chemical, electrical, or mechanical means, or a combination of these procedures.

[duckey]

The vinager and peroxide worked for me on a very heavy leaded barrel on my sig 229, it took 60 min of soak time, every 20 min I was running a brush thought it......however I have heard that this solution may pit your barrel and may remove any finish on the outside if the solution is allowed to get onto it. Noe of this happened to me but beware.

[DougGuy]

I'd fire the hardest copper FMJ bullets through it I could find, with the longest side surface, until the barrel got hot- copper is harder than lead or antimony, the latter would have to give as the copper slug was fired down the bore, and the lead softened up from the heat of successive firings.



Shoot a copper slug into a known obstructed barrel? REALLY??? Until it is hot enough to SOFTEN LEAD???

Mr. Captain, you may want to back off some of your rambling driveling posts if this is the best you can come up with. You are openly admitting your lack of knowledge about the subject material you speak on, but worse you are openly suggesting you or other members take on a very dangerous and unsafe activity. You will learn a LOT by lurking in this place, more so than coming on board and spreading unsubstantiated and questionable advice to members here.

[44man]

Shoot a copper slug into a known obstructed barrel? REALLY??? Until it is hot enough to SOFTEN LEAD???

Mr. Captain, you may want to back off some of your rambling driveling posts if this is the best you can come up with. You are openly admitting your lack of knowledge about the subject material you speak on, but worse you are openly suggesting you or other members take on a very dangerous and unsafe activity. You will learn a LOT by lurking in this place, more so than coming on board and spreading unsubstantiated and questionable advice to members here.
WOW, never seen you get out of shape that much but you are correct. I get that way myself about stupid stuff all the time.
I missed the point of getting the barrel hot enough to melt lead, OH my heavens.

[CaptainCrossman]

here's an interesting tidbit- active ingredients in Barnes CR-10 are ammonia and ethylene glycol n-butyl ether
ethylene glycol was the original antifreeze from the 1920's, that is recently being replaced by less toxic solutions
when it oxidizes one of the byproducts is ACETIC ACID, i.e. same as vinegar/peroxide solution

Ethylene glycol

Ethylene glycol solutions became available in 1926 and were marketed as "permanent antifreeze" since the higher boiling points provided advantages for summertime use as well as during cold weather. They are used today for a variety of applications, including automobiles, but gradually being replaced by propylene glycol due to its lower toxicity.

When ethylene glycol is used in a system, it may become oxidized to five organic acids (formic, oxalic, glycolic, glyoxalic and acetic acid). Inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze mixes are available, with additives that buffer the pH and reserve alkalinity of the solution to prevent oxidation of ethylene glycol and formation of these acids. Nitrites, silicates, theodin, borates and azoles may also be used to prevent corrosive attack on metal.

Poisoning
Main article: Ethylene glycol poisoning

Ethylene glycol is poisonous to humans and other animals,[4][5] and should be handled carefully and disposed of properly. Its sweet taste can lead to accidental ingestion or allow its deliberate use as a murder weapon.[6][7][8] Ethylene glycol is difficult to detect in the body, and causes symptoms—including intoxication, severe diarrhea, and vomiting—that can be confused with other illnesses or diseases.[4][8] Its metabolism produces calcium oxalate, which crystallizes in the brain, heart, lungs, and kidneys, damaging them; depending on the level of exposure, accumulation of the poison in the body can last weeks or months before causing death, but death by acute kidney failure can result within 72 hours if the individual does not receive appropriate medical treatment for the poisoning.[4] Some ethylene glycol antifreeze mixtures contain an embittering agent, such as denatonium, to discourage accidental or deliberate consumption.

[runfiverun]

acetic acid is made much easier by adding salt to the vinegar.

siiigh.

Captain: you are not gonna shoot lead out with a fmj bullet.
I have tried.
the easiest remover of lead is a proper fitting boolit, it will remove lead from a barrel quickly.
I tried and tried a ton of tests with my old 41 mag flat top and found using a properly fit boolit to be the fastest and easiest way to remove fouling of any sort.
if done properly it will even remove copper fouling over time.
I went so far as to shoot a G/C design without the gas check to remove fouling left behind from lazer-cast brand uber hard boolits.
one cylinder full of the properly fit bore filling boolits and the barrel was down to metal and lube again.

[44man]

Yes. shooting a soft boolit very slow so you can see it go down range will actually remove leading to a point.
Laser cast has always proven to be too small for the gun. Why a .457" boolit for a 45-70? Not the alloy but fit.

[dudel]

the easiest remover of lead is a proper fitting boolit, it will remove lead from a barrel quickly.
I tried and tried a ton of tests with my old 41 mag flat top and found using a properly fit boolit to be the fastest and easiest way to remove fouling of any sort.
one cylinder full of the properly fit bore filling boolits and the barrel was down to metal and lube again.

Two serious questions. What's the proper fit for a badly lead fouled barrel? What's the profile of the boolit?

I think I'll stick to elbow grease for light leading, and Foul-out for heavy.

[44man]

Fit and no skid is first. No gas leakage before, not after. Prevent leading first.

[Bullwolf]

I feel the need to mention that the vinegar and peroxide mixture can quickly pit barrel steel, including stainless.

Before you take my word for it, do some Google searching for others who have had unpleasant experiences with this mixture.

I have one badly pitted stainless Dan Wesson barrel tube which settled the matter conclusively for me.

Use the Vinegar/Hydrogen Peroxide mixture very carefully, and at your own risk!

If you value the bluing job on your firearm, do remember that Vinegar alone quickly removes bluing.

I'll be sticking with the mechanical lead removal methods like:
Kroil, copper Chore Boy strands, and Big 45 Frontier pads, and the Lewis lead removal kits.



- Bullwolf

[whisler]

Captain: Please note that "ethylene glycol n-butyl ether" is not "ethylene glycol". It is a compound of ethylene glycol that is an excellent solvent and grease cutter that is also miscible with water. It will not readily form acetic acid nor is it an anti-freeze. There is much more to chemistry than reading half of a chemical name and jumping to conclusions.

[GhostHawk]

Fit is king, this is where you start.

Hardness should go up as you push the same boolit faster. My opinion only, but it seems to fly.

If fit and hardness are right next look at lube, then charge. Lots of guys love to go fast, but fast is more complicated, more difficult. What works at 1800 fps may not at 2200 fps.

For me, for removing lead, tight jag, enough patch to really make you work to get that through.
I like to start with Hoppes, but I have had several times when I thought I had a bore clean and a single wet patch of Dextron II or III (ATF) showed me that I was wrong. Personally I like the Dextron 3 with a little kicker of GooGone mixed with it. Slippery as heck, seems to leave a slick layer after being wiped away. It seems to get under the lead, lets patch remove it.

Then just keep at it. Hoppes in the morning, leave it damp. Couple hours later a couple dry patch's, then the ATF, finish with a wet patch of Hoppes and walk away for a hour or 4, repeat.

My worst was an SKS with undersized boolits and lousy homemade no recipe lube. Took me 4 days. On the plus side by the time I got it all out that bore was really shining sweet.

It is like a chain, each variable depends on the others to do their part.
But if you don't build it right you end up with a weak link and it breaks.

If it breaks, go back to basics, fit, alloy, lube, charge/speed, loading process, etc. Step up slowly taking notes till you can learn where the weak point is.

It is a process, a journey.

[TXGunNut]

I must be doing something wrong. I've shot thousands and thousands of boolits since I started casting and now have my first badly leaded bore. Not exactly sure how it happened but I'll probably have it out by bedtime.....or I'll let it soak overnight.

[HangFireW8]

I must be doing something wrong. I've shot thousands and thousands of boolits since I started casting and now have my first badly leaded bore. Not exactly sure how it happened but I'll probably have it out by bedtime.....or I'll let it soak overnight.

I got my first leaded revolver barrel from shooting purchased bulk lead bullets. I figured there was a right way to do it, and put that aside for a few years. When I got into casting, I read up on the subject here, purchased a Lewis Lead Remover, and finally got that barrel really clean... and several thousand slugs later, rifle, pistol and revolver.... haven't used it since.

I did get to use the great line I learned here, "I wouldn't know". As in the range conversation,
J-word Loader: "I prefer jacketed because I hate cleaning lead out of bores."
Me: "Really? I wouldn't know."

[TXGunNut]

Me: "Really? I wouldn't know." -HangFireW8

Yep, pretty much. In another life I shot hundreds of thousands of soft swaged lead WC's thru PPC revolvers. Many of us never cleaned the barrels, just the cylinders and a dry brush across the forcing cone now and then.
Was actually a little excited when Hoppes wouldn't get this fouling out. Finally got to use that little can of Kroil I stashed away a few years back after reading a thread similar to this one. Stuff really works good and doesn't stink up the house. Actually smells pretty good because it reminds me of a few old gunsmith and machine shops I used to frequent. I think my grand-dad even used the stuff, brings back some memories.

[DougGuy]

I used to get really bad leading in a 4 5/8" .45 Colt BH. Back then all I knew about cast boolits was the Keith type LSWCs with the commercial blue magma lube, the boolits were fairly hard and I used to buy them in bulk by the thousand. Nearly totally destroyed a LLR trying to get it out a time or two. Never figured it out. Used to run them over 8.5gr Unique, CCI primers.

Didn't know about thread choke, cylinder throat sizes, none of that stuff even entered my head. I read about firelapping and I took the lube off of 50 of them boolits, went to the gun shop next door and talked the man out of the broken bottle of paste bore cleaner, poured the oil off and used the paste that had settled in the bottom. I seated boolits down to the lube groove with a really wide flare on the case mouth, I crammed the paste in there all the way around and seated them bad boys over 8.5gr Unique and shot them all. OMG was that gun a smoky oily mess covered in abrasives, I just carried it to my shop trying not to rub against it and rub the bluing off, finally got it cleaned up and WOW what a difference in how smooth the bore was! Groups shrunk by half, and leading was much better. Man, that was half a lifetime ago!

I didn't have sense enough to figure out what was actually going on in the cylinder throats or the forcing cone and I didn't know squat about cast boolits and lube either.

Now, I "get it." I understand the FIT. I understand a bore without a choke, a smooth well cut forcing cone, a Taylor throat for the worst ones, and I understand about having a boolit .001" over bore and cylinder throats .0005" over the boolit. I also learned a LOT about alloys and lube when I got to this forum, and I came up with a very workable combination that never leads the bores of my revolvers, and I never even clean them.

THANK YOU to all the fellas here who have posted things that I learned from and who have helped me directly by sharing their boolits and knowledge. I would still be stuck at the first sentence of this post if not for big bore guys like the ones on THIS forum.. You KNOW who you are..

[44man]

I have repeated this many times! The worst leading I ever seen was when I belonged to the West Cleveland Rifle and Pistol Club, indoor range where the Cleveland police shot. They used commercial wad cutter ammo with dead soft boolits.
Getting to know many of them I stuck my foot in my mouth to volunteer to clean the revolvers for them. OH MY! I could barely see through bores and the frames and cylinder fronts were packed with lead. To remove leading from blued surfaces was a chore. Took hours for each bore.
It taught me a lot and that was back in 1956-57. No silly putty in a gun. To see it squirt out the gaps was revealing. I was shooting the 429421 cast fairly hard. Lighter loads for indoors.
We had booths to shoot from with panels on each side to cut noise and spray to the guys next door. One day I stepped in and touched off a full power load from my Ruger flat top. I stepped back and every person was out of their booths to see what the heck I shot, funny as all get out!
I did a lot of experimenting even back then and before with a model 27 S&W, what a wonderful gun it was.
But it was the early 80's when I got into IHMSA that the learning curve made a sharp turn.
By the time I came here, I knew about fit, even case tension and primer action. I needed to pass it on. Same with casting perfect boolits from number one to hundreds. Much has been picked up by our members and my complaints are still those that read other stuff and never experiment or test but just repeat gunzines.
Many want to shoot cast to save money and shoot more, admirable goal but it is not the total reason. We do it because we can make cast shoot as good or better then store bought at the same time. The best at cast are HERE but you still need to sort and test for yourself. Some things are dangerous for you and your guns so beware and think first. Never would some of us even suggest doing anything harmful.
We have DougGuy still and I hang on because I go after claims that hold no water but we have lost many of the best. I might hold the record for being booted from the most sites but have been invited to join more over the years.
I still love it here and thank all for putting up with me. If some of us get personal, be assured you say something that nobody should do.

[Hickok]

Stay away from the old Winchester Lubaloy .357 Magnum 158gr SWC lead GC ammo, BECAUSE you ain't never seen leading in barrel until you have shot a box of these! Long ago and far away, when I was starting out in handguns, I can still remember looking down at what appeared to be a smoothbore barrel on a Ruger Blackhawk!:groner:

[Drew P]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't antimony MUCH harder than copper?

[DougGuy]

I did get to use the great line I learned here, "I wouldn't know". As in the range conversation,
J-word Loader: "I prefer jacketed because I hate cleaning lead out of bores."
Me: "Really? I wouldn't know."

I'm gonna use it today too! This was from yesterday at the (a-hem "sorta") range out back of a buddy's house, it was colder n a witches tit in a brass bra so I didn't stay long, Silver Jack Hammer had sent me a genuine Colt "cobra" mainspring as he calls it, for my Uberti Old West. This is a gun that they cloned every smidging detail from an 1875 Colt "pinched frame" Commercial Single Action Army pistol, right down to the huge .4565" cylinder throats! It's a LOVELY gun! It just melts in your hands like a 140yr old Colt, but it had a few failures to fire because of light primer strikes. It wouldn't shoot a lead pencil out of the barrel! Pretty sad really! Anyway, with the new Colt spring, it works GREAT!

Edit: I meant to say this gun has a .451ish bore, not sure exactly if it is .451" or .452" but it's the ONLY dimension that they DIDN'T clone from the old Peacemaker which would have had a .454" groove diameter.. Anyway, we have .4565" throats, .456" boolits, and a .451" or .452" barrel..

I just wanted to show you all this photo. This is only 10 rounds fired, 454190 sized .456" lubed with SPG over 9.0gr Herco, WLP primers, but it would have fired 500 with exactly no more leading or residue in the barrel than you see here with 10. THIS, is what you come up with when you have a FIT between the boolits, bore, and cylinder throats. This is why we say FIT is king.

Of course I might mention that I made a custom sized expander for my Lee die to handle these .456" boolits and still give good neck tension, I also honed out a .452" sizer in the lathe with an Acro lap to get exactly .456" and a light drag fit in all the cylinder throats. I did recut the forcing cone to 11° and weighed every charge at the press. The gun responded with 1 1/2" groups two handed standing about 15yds which isn't much but it was plenty good enough to know that this combination is a winner. The boolits are soft. 50/50+2% I can scratch them with a fingernail, the lube is soft SPG lube (black powder lube) and I think the mainspring had a LOT to do with how well each round lit off when the hammer fell. This is a gun that will never shoot factory ammo, and also never need the bore cleaned.

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/DougGuy/Guns/UbertiBorePasted768_zpshp7wt2ff.jpg (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/DougGuy/media/Guns/UbertiBorePasted768_zpshp7wt2ff.jpg.html)

[CaptainCrossman]

here's something very interesting

http://www.reloadingtips.com/reviews/lead_fouling_removal.htm

Firing Jacketed Ammo
Fire several rounds of jacketed ammo.

When I first heard this, I thought "Oh my God" nothing could be worse than firing jacked bullets through a lead fouled barrel. All that will do will iron in on and make it stick tighter and be harder to remove. This was one of those self evident truths that I just 'knew" to be true. Well these self evident obvious truths frequently aren't. This this turned out to be one of those times.

I have a Thompson Center .38 Special / .357 Magnum. This thing has about a three quarter inch section of sewer pipe for a forcing cone. It is very rough and leads very badly. This would be a perfect test gun.

Beginning with a clean barrel, I fired 50 rounds of hot .38 special. ( Not as hot as +P loads. ) This left about one and one half inches of severely leaded lands and groves in front of the forcing cone. This was fired into 5 ten shot groups at 50 yards, the first was about 3 inches and they progressively got larger. The last one was over 7 inches. This experiment was followed by two five shot groups using Winchester Super X 130 gr. FMJ ammo at the same range. The first group went into about 6 inches. The second was about 2.5 inches. Something unexpected is happening here.

I looked through the bore again and saw nothing but some powder fouling. I passed two ( very tight fitting ) clean dry patches through the bore and it looked completely clean! I could see no leading and no lead appeared on the patches.

A couple of passes were made with the Birchwood Casey Lead Remover Cloth. As expected, it did pick up some lead but only tiny particles. This bore was essentially free of leading.

Later that day, after several test groups with other lead bullets, when the groups began to open up, I decided to try it again but one shot at a time. Just how many rounds of jacketed ammo would it take to perform this task. I fired one round and passed two ( very tight fitting ) patches. I could see no difference at all in the lead. After round two and two more clean dry patches, I did notice a significant decrease in the amount of visible lead. After the third round and two m ore dry patches, it was visually as clean as after the two five round groups.

The same day I repeated the experiment with a modestly leaded 9mm Kimber and got the same result. After five rounds this barrel showed no visible leading.

[CaptainCrossman]

more






Removing Lead Fouling from Gun Barrels Products for cleaning lead fouling from handgun and rifle barrels.


Revised 2011-09-21

Birchwood Casey Lead Remover & Polishing Cloth http://www.reloadingtips.com/prodimages/birchwood_lead_remover.jpg

Birchwood Casey tells us:
Quickly removes leading, burn rings, carbon residue including copper and plastic fouling, rust and tarnish. Great for use on handguns, rifles, shotguns and muzzleloaders. Excellent for stainless steel, nickel, most metal surfaces, wood, glass, plastic and porcelain. Can be cut to size for removing unwanted residue inside the chamber, cylinder, forcing cone, bore and choke. Also ideal for other sporting equipment and home/auto use. "
I have used this product with great success on revolvers, rifles, and the Thompson Contender. I use lots of cast bullets and frequently need to remove lead fouling.
Revolvers are the most trouble because led fouling is deposited in the barrel, the forcing cone, the top strap, and sometimes in the cylinder.
Be sure to use a tight fitting jag and cut a patch to fit very tightly. This depends on friction to strip out the leading and will not work if it is just loosely pushed through the bore.
Be careful using on the outside of the firearm. If used to excess, this stuff will remove the blueing.


Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel http://www.reloadingtips.com/prodimages/hoppes_bore_gel.jpg This is the same formula as Hoppe's Elite solvent but in a thicker formulation. It clings to the bore.
HOPPE'S TELLS US:
This special blend of cleaning agents, corrosion inhibitors and surface treatments safely penetrates the pores of metal to clean all types of fouling and powder residue. Hoppe's Elite also conditions the barrel to repel additional fouling, provides a powerful lubricant and can cut your cleaning time by up to 80%. Hoppe's Elite is approved safe by all major gun manufacturers and exceeds both EPA and MILSPEC requirements.

I find this to be a very effective bore cleaner for lead removal. I apply it liberally with a loose fitting bore mop then let it set for 20 - 30 minutes. After that, wrap some 000 or 0000 bronze wool around a worn out bronze cleaning brush and scrub diligently for ten or so strokes, Then repeat. Normal cleaning should not take more than two applications. Really bad leading may take more. REMEMBER. You need to let the solvent set for at least ten minutes in the bore before scrubbing.


Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber Foaming Gel Bore Cleaner
http://www.reloadingtips.com/prodimages/bore-scrubber-foaming-gel.jpg
Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber Foaming Gel 2-in-1 Bore Cleaner quickly, easily and safely removes all types of fouling - carbon, powder, copper, lead and plastic wad residue. This bore cleaner contains no highly toxic ingredients and is safe for use on steel. Solvent clings to and penetrates neglected or fouled bores. Great for rifles, shotguns and handguns.



This stuff is nasty. It removes both copper and lead about equally well. It is very easy to apply to the bore with no tools because the supplied applicator tube can be inserted directly into the bore and the gel will under pressure foam along the entire length of the bore. m Unfortunately, it doesn't stop there. It foams out the back end and the front end. You push it out with your cleaning brush. It gets all over everything. It makes a mess on your table. When I use it, ( and I do use it ), I always cover the table top with a double layer of paper towels.
After leting it soak for 20 minutes or more, I wrap some 000 or 0000 bronze wool around a worn out bronze cleaning brush and scrub diligently for ten or so strokes, Then repeat. Normal cleaning should not take more than two applications. Really bad leading may take more. REMEMBER. You need to let the solvent set for at least ten minutes in the bore before scrubbing.


Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning Solvent* http://www.reloadingtips.com/prodimages/kano-kroil.jpg
Kano tells us:
Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning Solvent is the oil that creeps. Kroil is used by the most accuracy-obsessed benchrest shooters to keep their barrels clean. Kroil creeps below the fouling in your barrel, allowing you to knock it out easily with a patch or brush. For best results when working with rusted or frozen gun parts, allow 24 hours for Kroil to penetrate.
They also say tight on the face of the can:
"FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY, NOT FOR RETAIL SALE."

Technical Information: Kroil Penetrating Oil and Bore Cleaning Solvent

Container: Metal Canister
Removes Carbon Fouling: Yes
Removes Lead Fouling: Yes
Removes Copper Fouling: Yes
Can be use after moly-coated bullets: Yes
Displaces Moisture: Yes
Prevents Rust: Yes

This product gets rave reviews on the reloading forums. It is the equivalent of the old west "Snake Oil" It is claimed to cure anything that ails your gun.
* Interestingly, although Midway USA advertises this product as a bore solvent and cleaning product, The manufacturer makes no such claim. Brownell's states it will penetrate under carbon, copper, and lead fouling and help to remove them.
FYI, If you are going to buy it, you can order it from kanolabs.com cheaper than from the shooting supplies companies.
The results:
Does it work? Yes.
Is it "Magic"? No.
It does an adequate job of removing bore fouling, including lead but it is not instant. It needs 20 to 30 minutes to work just like all the other solvents. It takes slightly more work and a few more applications than say Hoppe's Elite or Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber Foaming Gel.
If you have it, use it. If you don't have it, don't buy it as a bore cleaner.
Just for grins, I thought "This stuff does work. If it works by penetrating under the fouling and loosening it that way, then any good penetrating oil should do the same thing."
I thought that WD-40 is arguably the most famous penetrating oil on the market and everyone already has a can of it. Why not try it. After the next trip to the range with some ammo known to lead badly, I started by spraying the WD-40 into the bore and saturating it from end to end, just like I would do with any lead removal product. After a 20 minute wait, I proceeded with my normal cleaning routine and found that it worked exactly as well as, but no better than Kroil.


World's Best Bore Leading Removal Tool
http://www.reloadingtips.com/allimages/lead_fouling/bronze-wool1.jpg (http://www.reloadingtips.com/allimages/lead_fouling/bronze-wool1.jpg)
http://www.reloadingtips.com/allimages/lead_fouling/bronze-wool2.jpg (http://www.reloadingtips.com/allimages/lead_fouling/bronze-wool2.jpg)

Click to Expand Images



Take a worn out bronze bore brush. You want it worn out because you are going to ruin it and you don't care if it fits tight. Take a pinch of bronze wool. Pull it apart and stretch it until the fibers are only loosely connected. Wrap it around the brush in a spiral pattern until the brush is completely covered from end to end. If the brush is worn so much that it fits loosely in the bore, keep wrapping bronze wool until it will not enter the bore by finger pressure.
Now put the brush on the end of a short rod, As short as possible because you are going to be applying lots of pressure and you don't want it to bend. Using the rod, force the brush into the bore from the breach end if possible but for revolvers you will have to force it into the muzzle. The first time you use it, it should "shave" some of the bronze wool off and leave it behind. If it does not, you don't have enough bronze wool. Occasionally you will wrap so much you just cannot get it to enter the bore. When that happens, unwind a little of it and try again. The final fit should be tight enough that it requires significant force to push it through the bore.
Although this is very effective, you should use it in conjunction with lead removing solvents, not insteae of.

[CaptainCrossman]

re: chore boy copper pads
they are NOT easy to find lately
Walmart and the dollar stores carry a lesser quality copper coated pad, that is really steel,
and sticks to a magnet, and doesn't work as well
it's coming down to price. a pack of 3 scrub pads coated copper are $1
but pure copper box of scrub pads is $5

the 000 steel wool is easy to find. made in China, but cheap $1.19 for a pack of it at discount stores.

[runfiverun]

Dudel:
the proper fit for a leaded barrel is the same one for a non leaded barrel.
the boolit I used to clean the 41 was the lyman swc, the one I used to get it leaded up was also a swc. [lazer cast's version]
the difference was the bhn and diameter.

10 minutes of measuring a guns dimensions will have you on the right track super quickly.
even just a pair of calipers stuck in the barrel, throat, and cylinders gives you something.
blindly buying whatever is available or guessing is just gonna lead to grief.
getting close, adjusting things slightly, and reading what the gun is saying will get you shooting your own cast boolits quickly.

[DougGuy]

wt_???

[Dan Cash]

God help the neophite or any other who buys into Crossman's gas. There are acid etched and bulged barrels in your future.

[afish4570]

I posted this on the original thread asking "What am I missing" but wanted a stand alone for comments as this is not about getting the leading but removing it:

Alright. I have spent some time now scrubbing the leading from the barrel and it is giving me fits. I read the leading sticky but still have lead in the barrel.

I have tried: Copper ChoreBoy, Soaking in Kroil, Steel Wool, Hoppes 9, JB Borepaste, even Hydrogen Peroxide and Vinegar but still have leading left.

I read that using a filler of Cream of Wheat will help to get it out. I also read on a different board the same thing and several variations of this including using fine walnut media as a filler. I was thinking of using some Bullseye, cover with a piece of tissue paper and fill with walnut then seal the same as fireforming brass without a bullet. Anyone tried this?

I am also starting from square one. I am removing all melt from my pot and starting with pure COWW with some tin and making new boolits. The ones that I have I will save for my 45Colt.

Use a brass jag available from Midway (whole set for around $16)Using correct jag for bore size, ex. 9mm for 9mm barrel....a thin small dry patch with a piece of Chore Boy run dry thru the bore. Move copper around on jag to expose a clean surface. Not too tight or you will snap threads off of jag. This can happen and a sharp knife will usually get broken piece to back out.After most of the lead is removed alittle Kroil on this rig will usually cleanup the remaining lead. After you learn how to do this it can be done before barrel is really badly leaded. You may wish to order a few extra Midway jags for the most used calibers.......You will snap a jag or two learning how tight you can get away with. Took more words and explaining than it actually needed. This is for the newbies or those not familiar with the process. Good luck. Should be quick compared to what else you may tried. afish4570

[44man]

The lead out cloth has an aggressive abrasive that does remove bluing and steel. It is not a chemical lead remover.
I suppose you can push out leading with a few jacketed bullets but it depends on what the leading is to start with. The ideal is to shoot everything out of the bore with the next cast boolit so there is no build up.
I know you might lose your Freedom warranty if you shoot jacketed after cast.
Proper lube will not let lead stick and fouling will go out with each shot. It is when leading gets worse that you need to change what you are doing.
I have made a thousand lube tests and never clean between lubes because changes have been instant. It appears a good lube will help clean the bore with the first shot.
Some time ago a BPCR boolit was designed with a groove to remove fouling, failed because the fouling was 1000 times more the the groove could hold. Fouling still had to be kept soft to shoot out ahead of a boolit.
I made the mistake of buying expensive lubes like SPG and some other junk made with mostly paraffin with moly. Last 10" of barrels were packed with fouling so bad only a soaked patch would go through.
Then some bullets were coated with moly only to find it built up bad in bores and is the devil to remove.
Stay with a lead remover or copper Chore Boy but it is far easier to prevent leading first.