Savage 99 Fever

[TXGunNut]

Finally found a 99 I really like, it's a strong 95% gun with just a few handling dings, missing scope mount plugs and rear sight. SN is 701XXX, bolt is jewelled, has a mag counter, pressed checkering (quite good, as these things go) and a polyurethane finish. No wear on the bluing or stock anywhere. Bbl is 22" IIRC and chambering is 300 Savage. Action feels and looks like a new gun. There's an "s" stamped near the serial number towards the front of the receiver. I gather the twist rate is 1:10 and it's a cartridge I don't currently load but I know the brass is available, think it can even be made from .308 Win brass. Bore is excellent of course. I suspect it's a 50-60 year old gun but really don't know.
Somehow I walked off and left this rifle in the store but I asked them to hold it for me. Besides, I had loaned the empty gun case from the trunk of my car to my buddy to tote his new rifle home and I didn't feel like buying a new one. ;-)
Can someone tell me what I have here? I'm pretty sure this won't make a great CB rifle w/ the 1:10 twist but I'm not opposed to shooting it with j-words, I have a few j-word-only rifles. And yes, it has occurred to me that it would quite probably make a trip to JES to return as a 358 Win.

[Kevinakaq]

Congrats on the new rifle. I just bought an EG model myself for the first time last week in 300 Savage. I'm sure I will, and certain you will as well have fun with the fine rifle you have purchased. I also have a Rem 760 in 300 Savage that I have shot Jwords and cast out of. Had good luck with both so please don't discount the 300 Sav and cast boolits. Can share some recipes over pm if interested.

Congrats again and enjoy!
Kevin

[TXGunNut]

I didn't buy it...yet. But thanks anyway. I've read the posts about your rifle and more than a few threads on the subject. The gun's so nice I'll probably bring just it home and try to figure out what to do with it later.

[021]

You won't be able to chamber that rifle for .358. They opened the internal dimensions up along about 900000 serial # to accommodate the .308. I believe your rifle is a late 40's or VERY early 50's gun. There may be a small letter on the front of the lever boss(the part that the lever engages) "A" started in 1949 IIRC "B" for 1950. If your rifle has a tapered fore arm with a schnabel it would be an EG model 99. The checkering is real, not impressed. Also, with that serial number, Im sure it was drilled and tapped through the "savage 99" lettering, unless it is an "R" or "RS" which came factory drilled earlier than the EG. These rifles would have rounded fore arms.

[buckwheatpaul]

You know you are going to buy it....just take 2 asprin and blow the cobwebs out of your wallet....you will be better for it!

[dragon813gt]

Do not rebore a 300 Savage model. I don't think it's possible to begin w/. But save the rebores for the 308 economy models. I'm all for doing what you want to your rifle. But I love the 300 Savage cartridge and don't want to see any lost to rebores. Brass is easily made from 308. You do have to trim quite a bit off. I found that I had to use a small base die upon initial forming to get LC brass to chamber w/ no resistance. Like I said...quite a bit of trimming.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/F5CC072F-CD60-4D2B-BDA2-B811A44DD8D1-36773-000021B8D0ED8ABD_zpsa7025be8.jpg

So how much did they want for it? And was the stock crack free at the tang?

You need the check the lever boss to determine which year it was produced.

[TXGunNut]

I probably will, Paul. With enablers like you I just don't have a chance, do I? That bit of info about the .358 round being too long has taken a bit of the wind out of my sails, tho. I don't recall the Savage logo being on top of the receiver. Follower is steel, BTW. Dunno why I didn't take pictures.

[dragon813gt]

358 rebores are for 308 and 243 models only.

[TXGunNut]

Do not rebore a 300 Savage model. I don't think it's possible to begin w/. But save the rebores for the 308 economy models. I'm all for doing what you want to your rifle. But I love the 300 Savage cartridge and don't want to see any lost to rebores. Brass is easily made from 308. You do have to trim quite a bit off. I found that I had to use a small base die upon initial forming to get LC brass to chamber w/ no resistance. Like I said...quite a bit of trimming.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/TimeToMakeAmmo/F5CC072F-CD60-4D2B-BDA2-B811A44DD8D1-36773-000021B8D0ED8ABD_zpsa7025be8.jpg

So how much did they want for it? And was the stock crack free at the tang?

You need the check the lever boss to determine which year it was produced.

Price was reasonable, suspect I can get it for $650...maybe less. Boss was stamped with a letter and two numbers, think the letter was "F". I guess the chamber is safe, have 300 S dies and case trimmer in my shopping cart. Stock is like new. No cracks or scratches, only a few minor dings.

[021]

If the lever boss is F its a 1954. Savage moved the Savage logo from the top of the receiver to the side when they started drilling and tapping them from the factory. If its drilled through the logo on top the collectors will call it a shooter, it detracts from the value. Consider this when you begin to dicker on it.

[TXGunNut]

If the lever boss is F its a 1954. Savage moved the Savage logo from the top of the receiver to the side when they started drilling and tapping them from the factory. If its drilled through the logo on top the collectors will call it a shooter, it detracts from the value. Consider this when you begin to dicker on it.


I'm not a collector so it's a shooter. I hear the jewelled bolt started about 1955 so that makes sense. It's in very nice shape so will not make any changes to affect the collector value.

[TXGunNut]

The short neck of the 300 Savage has me a bit concerned, any thoughts on shooting a GC boolit in that?

[dragon813gt]

I load mine below the neck all the time. I have not had any issues at all. I use aluminium checks made w/ a Freechex III. While I understand people's concerns. I have no real world proof to back up those concerns.

[richhodg66]

I load mine below the neck all the time. I have not had any issues at all. I use aluminium checks made w/ a Freechex III. While I understand people's concerns. I have no real world proof to back up those concerns.

I agree on all counts. The original Ideal 31141, the NOE copy and the Ranchdog 165 have all worked fine in my '99 EG with the bullet base seated inside the case.

Buy the '99, you won't regret it.

[dragon813gt]

Buy the '99, you won't regret it.
If not please PM me the shops number so I can arrange payment and shipping. I happen to have the parts it's missing on hand and always need more 99s :)

[TXGunNut]

If not please PM me the shops number so I can arrange payment and shipping. I happen to have the parts it's missing on hand and always need more 99s :)

If I pass on it I'll tell them to expect a call from you, lol.
I'm thinking I was wrong about the checkering, I seem to recall seeing Savage's pressed checkering and this wasn't it. It's a bit deeper and more uniform than other examples of Savage checkering I've seen. Looks like I'll be posting pics later today, wish I'd taken a few yesterday. I need to get in the habit of using the tecnology available to me but it's a difficult transition for me. Forgot to mention that it has a recoil pad, looked like a Pachmayr. I know that will disappoint the purists and collectors but it doesn't bother me. I suspect it is much newer than the gun and it was installed properly, I don't think this gun needs a recoil pad but it may come in handy.

[Hardcast416taylor]

The 300 Sav. round was considered as a replacement in trials to retire the .30-06 as our main military round. It was termed the "Baby .30-06" due to the velocity it attained with 150 gr. bullets. However, the short neck was the killer as far as selection went because it had problems feeding thru full auto weapons. My 300`s thrive on 150 gr. jacketed bullets and work quite well with cast. My Rem. 722 likes 130 gr. Speer HP bullets for crows and ground hogs in the Spring.Robert

[dragon813gt]

Forgot to mention that it has a recoil pad, looked like a Pachmayr. I know that will disappoint the purists and collectors but it doesn't bother me. I suspect it is much newer than the gun and it was installed properly, I don't think this gun needs a recoil pad but it may come in handy.

They did come w/ them from the factory. The one you're talking about is to old to have one. But they put them on the later models. Here is one of the two new stocks I have.
http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa39/dragon813gt/Mobile/7E0F1A50-AAD5-40A5-AF97-D46E996144FC-9910-000005BEFA6D1621_zpsbfd26d3f.jpg

[Remiel]

My buddy inherited a model 99 savage in .300, were taking today to my friend that helps me with my reloading(owns a store and has 2 savage 99's) to make sure its safe(has sat for many years) and get him a start pack in ammo, i cleaned the bore but because of the internal mag left it at that for now, Ive never seen one so i don't want to mess it up, they are beautiful leverguns, and now i kinda want one

[johnny_xring]

Well,

I am one of those saying go for it. I have two projects planned among all of the other ones currently underway. Get the 99, you will have a nice rifle and they are kind of hard to find. I have two: a .303 Savage (ser.# puts it at 1925 mfg) and one in .308 Winchester (somewhere in the later 1950s). I already got new brass for the .303 stockpiled--you won't have that problem with the .300 Savage (.303 Savage loading was discontinued in 1963 or so). I'll post here later when I get around to working on them.

You won't be giving up anything much with .300 Savage in ballistics as pointed out. I'm planning on working up cast loads in both. My vote only--your decision alone.

JX

[richhodg66]

The Privi brass for the .303 is available reasonably now. Seems to be good stuff but I haven't loaded it a bunch of times yet. Once you have brass and dies, no harder to load than anything else and easier than some.

The .300 brass wasn't hard to find either in my experience and worst case, you can form it from .308. I kind of came to the conclusion that a '99 EG in .300 is about as good as a deer rifle gets last year, at least where and how I hunt. I've since picked up a .358 brush gun I've been working with that may change my mind this year.

Again, buy the '99. You'll thank us for telling you to later.

[TXGunNut]

No surprise, my first Savage 99 followed me home. Can't rightly say why other than I didn't have one and this is the nicest one I've seen since I started watching for one.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm calling this a transition gun. Barrel is stamped Chicopee Falls but the Savage logo is off to the side to accomodate the factory D&T'd holes. Stamp of the lever boss is 13F inside an oval. Recoil pad is the White Line Pachmayr, just like I put on Ol' Ugly over 30 yrs ago. Bbl is 24" with the front sight dovetailed into an integral ramp. 110543110544

[Kevinakaq]

Congrats to you my friend. A fine looking rifle I must say. Like that it was factory drilled very much and that jeweled bolt is handsome. Very nice and look forward to comparing some recipes with you in the near future.

[021]

It looks like an "R" model. If so, it will have a rounded fore end, not a schnabel, and a grip cap. I have the exact same gun/year/caliber (1954) but with a slightly higher serial number. It was indeed factory drilled and tapped. Mine does not have the jeweled bolt though. Congratulations on a fine rifle! The .300 savage takes a backseat to nothing for whitetail, its all class! Replace the recoil pad with a new pachmayr and you are good to go. The "R" model is slightly heavier than an "EG" but was considered(along with the RS) to be the premium model 99 of the time period.

[OverMax]

If you intend to make 300 Sav from 308 Win brass as I often do. You'll probably need one of these (link)
300 Savage chambers are kind of particular when it comes to its cartridge-ages head spacing.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator?cm_vc=ProductFinding

[TXGunNut]

It looks like an "R" model. If so, it will have a rounded fore end, not a schnabel, and a grip cap. I have the exact same gun/year/caliber (1954) but with a slightly higher serial number. It was indeed factory drilled and tapped. Mine does not have the jeweled bolt though. Congratulations on a fine rifle! The .300 savage takes a backseat to nothing for whitetail, its all class! Replace the recoil pad with a new pachmayr and you are good to go. The "R" model is slightly heavier than an "EG" but was considered(along with the RS) to be the premium model 99 of the time period.

Welcome to the forum!
Thanks for the info and you're correct on the stock details. The recoil pad is still soft, no need to replace it. The white line gives it a touch of nostalgia.
Midway had Hornady ammo for a decent price this morning, operative word is "had". I figure I'll buy a few boxes of factory loads :shock: to carry me over until the correct headstamp brass is available.

[richhodg66]

The 99Rs are said to be the best shooters. I have one on the way in .250 and know of where another one is in .300 I'm trying to figure out a trade deal for (it isn't as nice as that one of yours).

You know, .300 Savage isn't exactly super rare, when I got my EG, I went to a LGS in little old Junction City, Kansas and they had a few boxes of the Remington green box stuff. Wal Mart won't have it, but I bet if you looked around you could find a local source that would sure be a lot better way to go about it than ordering from Midway.

[TXGunNut]

They actually had a few boxes of Hornady and Remington ammo @ Cabelas today, have seen it other places as well. I think they had Federal as well but I don't load Fed brass. Midway was a bit less than Cabelas and they aren't expecting any more anytime soon. Dies were actually cheaper @ Cabelas so I snagged them and a few pounds of 4227 for a friend.

[richhodg66]

Besides my 99EG, I have a Savage model 1920 bolt action in .300. Oddly, the 99 will usually outshoot the 1920 and is less picky about bullet design. Both are decent cast shooters.

Try the 311041 or 311291, both have done well in mine.

[TXGunNut]

Thanks, I have a NOE 311041 and have read a bit about the 311291. I don't find it odd that the 99 will outshoot a bolt gun, I've been hearing (and talking about) 336's and 99's that will do it on a regular basis. Good luck on trading for that 300.

[ammohead]

TXGN,

If you are familiar with partial full length sizing, that is matching the sizing die shoulder set back to the actual chamber dimentions, 99sw really benefit from the treatment. I have found that 99 chambers are cut quite generous and if you can get the shoulder fo the brass to just kiss the chamber shoulder your groups will shrink considerable. You will want to run a tight patch to determine twist rate but I believe you will find it to be 1 in 14" most 300's are. 130 gr barnes txs' are killer with that twist rate. Higher velocity, smaller groups and no jacket separation.

[35 shooter]

Nice find and a good looking rifle! Always liked the way they feel and handle, especially without a scope. Of course now-a -days , i need the scope.

[onceabull]

It's hard for me to just pass by ANY thread re:Savage 99s..SO,after literally years of looking ,I finally got this week, a 99 Barrel Band carbine in 30/30,that doesn't look like it spent most of its working life in a wet scabbard...Had to let the same model in 250-3000 go somewhere else,as condition was a lot less..was sorely tempted though as one sees so few of this model... Oncebaull

[dragon813gt]

Have you seen this ;)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=247636

[richhodg66]

The NOE311041 and IMR 4895 worked well in my .300. I did have to seat it pretty deep.

[bigbear]

The 99Rs are said to be the best shooters. I have one on the way in .250 and know of where another one is in .300 I'm trying to figure out a trade deal for (it isn't as nice as that one of yours).

You know, .300 Savage isn't exactly super rare, when I got my EG, I went to a LGS in little old Junction City, Kansas and they had a few boxes of the Remington green box stuff. Wal Mart won't have it, but I bet if you looked around you could find a local source that would sure be a lot better way to go about it than ordering from Midway.

Savage 99 in R. As the kids would say, SWEET! I read in the old Accurate Rifle mag in an article on Winchester 71's that the R stock was the finest handling lever action stock made along with the Win 71 of course. I am lucky enough to have a 99R in 308 and another in 300Savage:bigsmyl2:

[richhodg66]

Yeah, had to pay more than I'd have liked, but they aren't making them anymore and I wanted a good .250. I've had a .250, an A model of the newer type with tang safety, but it's never been a very good shooter, pretty much the worst of the ones I have. I'm working with it more now, and hopefully will get it to come around, but most of the '99s I've had were good shooters from the get-go.

I think the Rs in .308 may be less common than the .250, hang onto that one.

[.45Cole]

Don't come to Colorado and buy them, they are on the rise here. I just came from Cabela's and they had a .308 for $900 some. I try to talk friends into them, but they are so expensive from what they use to be. I'd like one in .358 or maybe .300 j-word.

I'll have to stick with the ol AK for now.

[richhodg66]

I just drove down to north Texas to visit family last week and stopped in a shop off the highway just north of the Red River. They had one in .22 Highpower. Barrel had been docked, recoil pad badly installed and had been drilled and tapped besides the stock being amateurishly carved and most of the finish on the metal gone and they were asking $750. It's ridiculous what some people think they are worth. If you keep looking and are patient, there are still decent deals on them out there.

If you want rare or unusual ones, prepare to pay to play. That .358 Brush Gun I have was expensive, but I wanted it and don't regret it. It's a very good shooter and easily gets good accuracy with powerful cast loads. It seems to be the perfect deer rifle for how I hunt and I figure I can get my money back out of it easily if I ever get tired of it.

[sav300]

Have two 300 99`s.I anneal 250 savage brass abd run them thru a 270 expander,then the 300 fls die. No problems.

[358 Win]

TXGN,
Welcome to the sweet world of Savage 99's and .300 Savages. I presently own four .300 Savage rifles. A Savage Model 99EG from 1956, a Remington Model 722 from 1949, a Remington 700 Classic from 2003, and a Remington Model 7600 pump which was a limited run in 2003. I shoot them all and love them all. I also shoot cast using the old Lyman 31141 mold. Seating the boolit below the neck does not seem to affect accuracy as my 99EG shoots just fine.

An interesting tidbit about my 99EG is that the lever boss code indicates a 1952 mfg date on the receiver but the serial number 769xxx is a 1956 date of assembly. Receivers were manufactured and the lever boss code stamped, and then shelved until needed. A letter from John Calahan, THE savage historian states that 1956 was the year of assembly but mine was warehoused until 1962 before it shipped. Not surprising to me as by 1956 the .308 Win was being chambered in the 99's and it took a lot of wind out of the sails of the .300 Savage because it was 150 fps faster. I hand load mine with WW Power Point 150 grainers in excess of 2700 fps and my 99 .300 Savage groups as well at 100 yards as any bolt gun in my collection, bar none. My 722 Remington has shot my only truly one hole three shot group with it's period correct 4X Redfield mounted. My 99EG wears an older plum colored Leupold VXII 2x7x33.

What I'm about to write really got me harassed and stomped on on another forum. I've killed many deer with the .300 Savage, .308 Win, and 30-06 and can't tell a wit of difference between the three. All deer died right there or went maybe 35 yards (all with the .300 were DRT). On the other forum one self appointed expert told me the .300 Savage will never equal the 30-06 which is NOT what I said. I said on a deer killed with either, I did not see a difference. Of course I'm no expert on anything, I just post what has been my experiences. Needless to say, I don't participate on that forum much anymore.

At a picnic last year my best friend was handed a box of rifle parts by one of his nephews and was told he could keep it and do whatever he wanted to do with the parts. When my best friend got home and examined what was handed to him he found the makings of a Savage 99 Brush Gun in .358 Win!!! It was missing some parts including the butt stock. The bluing was almost gone and rusted. We completely took it apart and cleaned everything and from there we went on a parts search. What we could not find and buy, our 83 year old stock maker friend made for us, including some machined parts. It is all together and is up and running. The recoil, even with 200 grain loads at 2500 fps, is rather brisk. However, it shoots wonderfully even with it's Weaver 1.5x20mm scope mounted. The rifle dates from 1980 and I would not be embarrassed to hunt with it even though the exterior finish is rough.

Sorry for rambling on but I just had to add some to this conversation.

358 Win

[dragon813gt]

It's ridiculous what some people think they are worth.

There is a barreled action that's completely rusted and caliber not listed on Gunbroker right now. Asking price is $525. That's $75 less than what I bought a collector grade(it's at the very bottom) 300 Savage for. People think that just because it's old it's worth a lot of money. 99s are not dropping in price but some of the prices are really out of line.



Have two 300 99`s.I anneal 250 savage brass abd run them thru a 270 expander,then the 300 fls die. No problems.

250 brass is what's hard to come by here. That's about the last route I would take. But if it's all you have then you gotta do what you gotta do.




What I'm about to write really got me harassed and stomped on on another forum. I've killed many deer with the .300 Savage, .308 Win, and 30-06 and can't tell a wit of difference between the three. All deer died right there or went maybe 35 yards (all with the .300 were DRT). On the other forum one self appointed expert told me the .300 Savage will never equal the 30-06 which is NOT what I said. I said on a deer killed with either, I did not see a difference.

They would really hate me then. A quarter bore is the perfect round for whitetail. 257 Roberts is the perfect round for a bolt gun and 250 Savage is perfect for a lever action. Hell, even a 7600 Gamemaster in 257 Roberts is about the perfect rifle for hunting the woods of PA. But people love their 30/06 and won't use anything lesser because it doesn't kill them as good :rolleyes:

[richhodg66]

I do love the .30-06, but acknowledge that other .30s seem as good on deer.

If I could fault the Savage '99 for anything it would be that they never figured out a way to chamber it in .30-06, LOL.

[358 Win]

I do love the .30-06, but acknowledge that other .30s seem as good on deer.

If I could fault the Savage '99 for anything it would be that they never figured out a way to chamber it in .30-06, LOL.

Before the demise of the Model 99, Savage in fact made a prototype in 30-06 and made two that I believe went into some collector's possession. It was just a little too late as the tooling for the 99 had all but worn out and when Savage contracted to have the 99 made in Spain, the quality did not meet Savage's high standards.

358 Win

[358 Win]

I'm going to try and post a picture of my four .300 Savage rifles:http://i824.photobucket.com/albums/zz169/bobddville/IMAG0013.jpg (http://s824.photobucket.com/user/bobddville/media/IMAG0013.jpg.html)

Top to bottom: Savage 99EG, Remington 722, Remington 700 Classic, Remington 7600 limited run.

358 win

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I too have a bunch of Savage 99's. Probably a half dozen in .300. One is shot almost weekly, lives by the door and is my antelope and deer rifle. Another is a featherweight with a Williams peep. It is my 'too bad for a scope weather' rifle. I also carry it going back to an elk for pack-out in bear country. Another I keep for use with cast bullets. Two have the top safety and the older has the lever lock safety. All the top safety 99's will accommodate the .358 cartridge. Any of the 99's that have the 2.8 inch magazines should handle the .358. This change was about 1954. The magazine length is 2.6" for the earlier models. I believe the twist rate on most .30 cal 99's is closer to 1-12 but Sine Bar rifling makes this variable. When converting a later 99 to .358 from .300/.308/.243 a different cartridge carrier is needed. Sometimes these show on-line or at different gun parts vendors. It is a different carrier. The more recent carrier for .300/.308/.243 can be modified but the .358 carrier saves a lot of fussing. I use the Redding Competition shellholders to set headspace for all my rifles, but they really help extend case life with the 99's. I have not found the short neck of the .300 Savage to affect practical accuracy. I expect MOA from jacketed and usually get 1.5 to 2 MOA with cast. I have used the 311299 successfully in that short neck. The .30-30 bullets also work very well. Cast bullets are not a probem at all. I am an enthusiast if not a 'looney' concerning the Savage 99's as practical rifles for the outdoorsman.

[TXGunNut]

Have you seen this ;)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=247636

No, just got in from an ammo run. Very nice! Congrats!

[TXGunNut]

Wow, lots of good info in the above posts. Thanks so much for taking the time to type them out, 358 Win and MostlyLeverGuns.

[TXGunNut]

The 99Rs are said to be the best shooters. I have one on the way in .250 and know of where another one is in .300 I'm trying to figure out a trade deal for (it isn't as nice as that one of yours).

You know, .300 Savage isn't exactly super rare, when I got my EG, I went to a LGS in little old Junction City, Kansas and they had a few boxes of the Remington green box stuff. Wal Mart won't have it, but I bet if you looked around you could find a local source that would sure be a lot better way to go about it than ordering from Midway.

Went back down to Cabelas tonight, they still had the two boxes of Hornady that I passed on yesterday. Even got several more boxes in. Midway won't even accept backorders for it now. They also got some of my powders in today, had a shelf full of 4064, 3031 and LVR.

[TXGunNut]

If you intend to make 300 Sav from 308 Win brass as I often do. You'll probably need one of these (link)
300 Savage chambers are kind of particular when it comes to its cartridge-ages head spacing.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Thanks, just put one in my cart. I've only had one rifle that had headspace issues but I think I'll get some use out of these. I used a COAL comparator when I loaded j-words but haven't seen this one. Thanks again.

[bigbear]

About 3 years ago , I think, (bear with me now, as one ages , the years go faster), there was a great panic about discontinuation of uncommon calibre brass. As I have 250 Savage, 300 Savage, 358 Win, 348 Win,32-20 and 218 Bee rifles I went on a crusade to gather brass for what I plan to be a long retirement reloading /shooting/ hunter era. I found by watching for sale ads on our Canadian gun sites and calling all the small gun stores I could find phone numbers for in western Canada ,I was able to round up a goodly supply of makings. I think you would have even better luck down your way... so get to the phone and good hunting!

These 99 Savage threads have made me reconsider selling some of mine, they seem to be more valuable than I ever thought, I best shoot them some more:razz:

[OverMax]

If you want to see a 300s best terminal performance with a lead pointed J- bullet. Use 30-30 bullets up front. I shoot 170 weight J- FP's out of my 300 Sav. Been doing so for many many years. Those who like to use Spire or P/S-points will seldom see such devastation a 30-30 bullet leaves behind when fired out of a higher speed cartridge. 308 & 30-06 produce much worse end results than the 300 Savage even when their round is tipped with 30-30's also.

[gnoahhh]

TXGN,


What I'm about to write really got me harassed and stomped on on another forum. I've killed many deer with the .300 Savage, .308 Win, and 30-06 and can't tell a wit of difference between the three. All deer died right there or went maybe 35 yards (all with the .300 were DRT). On the other forum one self appointed expert told me the .300 Savage will never equal the 30-06 which is NOT what I said. I said on a deer killed with either, I did not see a difference. Of course I'm no expert on anything, I just post what has been my experiences. Needless to say, I don't participate on that forum much anymore.


358 Win

When introduced in 1920, the .300 Savage was touted as approximating then .30/06 performance in a smaller package, which was true. Thing is, the .300 started out at max performance while the .30/06 had plenty of room to grow and soon left the Savage round in the dust. That, however is a moot point because there surely is no moss on the old .300. All things being equal, I too never experienced a whit of difference between the killing power of the two-- at relatively close range. When you start talking distances measured in many hundreds of yards, I would prefer to do my work with an '06 simply due to higher velocity potential, making bullet drop a skinch easier to deal with.

I am attracted to the 1899/99 Savage for a couple reasons. No extraneous tube magazine hanging out from under the barrel. Innovative design, and clean flowing lines= wonderful balance. Superb workmanship (at least on the pre-war rifles, and ok on the 50's rifles). Quality (forgings/machined parts replaced by stampings), as well as stock design (meaning Monte Carlos, pressed checkering, and white line spacers) went downhill after the one million serial number mark in 1960 so that's where my interest in them ends.

A good Savage lever gun can hold its own with a comparable bolt gun accuracy-wise. The quicker second shot capability is a debatable asset, but is there if you need it. A Savage carbine is usually my first pick for a day in the woods, although I'm equally enamored of certain bolt guns and classic falling block single shots.

Savage started down the slippery slope of offering discount grade rifles and shotguns in addition to their Cadillac 99's when the Depression hit. The 40/45 and the later 340's (as good as they were in their own right), and 311 doubles and various pump shotguns bear witness to the reputation Savage got as being a "poor man's outfitter", and that rubbed off a bit onto the public's view of the rest of the Savage line.

[TXGunNut]

I understand about the brass situation, bigbear. I own a 375W and a 35 Rem. The 300 Savage will be the easiest to modify brass for but I'll gather some up as it comes available. Can't believe I actually bought some factory loads, and J-words at that!
After I send those silly condom bullets off for a dirt nap I'll probably load up some RD boolits for it. 311041 mould is out on loan but I have a few stashed away. Still kicking around a scope, thinking a fixed power Weaver scope would have enough of a retro touch for this old rifle.

[dragon813gt]

My Uncle's 99s are all scoped. And I will admit that it's great to use for load development and tree stand hunting. But it's more cumbersome in thick foliage. I've been taking scopes off my hunting rifles. Aperture sights are the best option for field use if a long shot is 100 yards.

[TXGunNut]

My Uncle's 99s are all scoped. And I will admit that it's great to use for load development and tree stand hunting. But it's more cumbersome in thick foliage. I've been taking scopes off my hunting rifles. Aperture sights are the best option for field use if a long shot is 100 yards.

I have a few Winchesters that don't (and won't!) wear scopes but with my presbyopia issues I prefer a scope for most hunting situations. Since I am expected to shoot cull bucks on the lease where I'm a guest a scope is quite useful for judging horns and other factors. I also do better in low light with a scope. One reason I bought this rifle is because it's factory D&T'd and a scope doeesn't ruin the lines, at least not for me. I really like those 99's with the tang sights, tho. Maybe next time.

[gandydancer]

99 F-featherweight 22" bbl 1955--1973 serial # - 755,000- 1965 impressed checkering introduced. the 99 by Douglas P Murray 1985



Finally found a 99 I really like, it's a strong 95% gun with just a few handling dings, missing scope mount plugs and rear sight. SN is 701XXX, bolt is jewelled, has a mag counter, pressed checkering (quite good, as these things go) and a polyurethane finish. No wear on the bluing or stock anywhere. Bbl is 22" IIRC and chambering is 300 Savage. Action feels and looks like a new gun. There's an "s" stamped near the serial number towards the front of the receiver. I gather the twist rate is 1:10 and it's a cartridge I don't currently load but I know the brass is available, think it can even be made from .308 Win brass. Bore is excellent of course. I suspect it's a 50-60 year old gun but really don't know.
Somehow I walked off and left this rifle in the store but I asked them to hold it for me. Besides, I had loaned the empty gun case from the trunk of my car to my buddy to tote his new rifle home and I didn't feel like buying a new one. ;-)
Can someone tell me what I have here? I'm pretty sure this won't make a great CB rifle w/ the 1:10 twist but I'm not opposed to shooting it with j-words, I have a few j-word-only rifles. And yes, it has occurred to me that it would quite probably make a trip to JES to return as a 358 Win.

[TXGunNut]

99 F-featherweight 22" bbl 1955--1973 serial # - 755,000- 1965 impressed checkering introduced. the 99 by Douglas P Murray 1985

Just ordered that book! Looked at Cabelas' shop copy for a few minutes and decided I needed it. Found a copy on Amazon.

[starmac]

My 99 is scoped, and has always been so. It is still the best carrying lever I own. So far I have never been able to bring myself to scope any of the marlins or winchesters, but my eyes are saying it is coming.

[TXGunNut]

My 99 is scoped, and has always been so. It is still the best carrying lever I own. So far I have never been able to bring myself to scope any of the marlins or winchesters, but my eyes are saying it is coming.

My Marlins are scoped, one has a red-dot. Others are compact or mid-sized scopes. Full-sized scope looks a little odd on them.

[dragon813gt]

My Marlins are scoped.
Boooooooooooo ;)

[TXGunNut]

Boooooooooooo ;)


Getting old sucks, leaving my Marlins in the safe would really bite. Back when I could see and use buckhorn sights I didn't appreciate them. Now that I appreciate them I have a hard time using them. OTOH with bolt-gun-like accuracy my Marlins take full advantage of a scope.

[dragon813gt]

Buckhorns are for the really young. I've been putting apertures on any rifle that I hunt w/. Even though I can only use one at a time more rifles end up w/ apertures every year. My M77 Hawkeye in the only one to still wear a scope. And this is due to not being made for open sights. At 35 I already know what my future looks like and it doesn't make me happy :(

[TXGunNut]

The Winchesters I shoot have peeps or they stay in the safe. I like a good scope but I enjoy shooting peeps and sometimes I go ahead and shoot buckhorns, some of the pre-war designs are actually somewhat useable by presbyopic eyes.

Did you see the rifle that Kevinakaq finally bought? That peep sight is simply awesome. I've read some were factory equipped with them but don't know is his is factory equipped or not. I wonder if Lyman still makes one like that?

[gnoahhh]

I remember reading Jack O'Connor where he ranted against buckhorns for blocking out too much of the sight picture and impeding accurate snap shooting. I tend to agree with him. Although every single hunting rifle I own either has an aperture rear sight combined with quick-detachable Griffin&Howe scope mounts or simply just an aperture sight, several have auxiliary flip-down "open" barrel sights of the wide flat "vee" style which I find afford rapid target acquisition. Just one man's opinion, probably worth a warm bucket of spit!

[TXGunNut]

I value your opinion, a discussion would be rather pointless if I didn't.
I honestly hadn't considered O'Connor's point and it may be valid, I just don't see it that way. I'm trying to focus on the front sight and the only part of the target I need to see is where I'm aiming. I'm a pretty poor snap shooter and avoid those situations so that may explain why I feel the way I do. Aperture sights do indeed allow me to see more of the target but more importantly they allow me to see the front sight and target more clearly. OTOH the old full buckhorn sights give me a much better sight picture than the more modern or "semi" buckhorn sights. Shooting with open or peep sights is a skill I need to work on so my opinion is quite likely worth little to folks with more skill and better eyesight than me.
I often don't like the look of scopes on some rifles but for my hunting rifles they increase the likelihood of a clean kill and enable me to carefully evaluate the animal before the shot. I would also be unlikely to be able to take advantage of the available accuracy of my Marlin and Savage rifles without a scope.

Speaking of scopes, I still need to figure out what kind of glass the "new kid" is going to wear. I've had some rotten luck with scopes lately.

[TXGunNut]

This rifle has put me in a retro mood, I think a new Weaver K6 would look pretty classy on that rifle. Put rings & bases on it tonight and e-mailed Weaver asking for the tube length. The 4 and 6 power Weavers are a bit short but that's what I like about them. 38mm obj may be a bit big for low rings but I probably have some mediums.

[TXGunNut]

Heard from Weaver today, tube is lug enough and K6 is on the way. I know a couple of old-school hunters who prefer the fixed 6X scopes. Wonder if I can find that old leather sling with the wide tooled section?

[seaboltm]

This thread cost me $406. I got the itch for a 99 and bought one yesterday, a mid 50's version in 300 Savage. Thanks guys!

[dragon813gt]

This thread cost me $406. I got the itch for a 99 and bought one yesterday, a mid 50's version in 300 Savage. Thanks guys!

Pics or it didn't happen

[xs11jack]

I have a 99 in .243 with an old steel K-6 on it. I love it to pieces. Total tack driver.
Ole Jack

[M-Tecs]

This thread cost me $406. I got the itch for a 99 and bought one yesterday, a mid 50's version in 300 Savage. Thanks guys!
Now I know who outbid me on GB. Nice rifle http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=429687156

[seaboltm]

Now I know who outbid me on GB. Nice rifle http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=429687156

Hello M-Tecs. Sorry I outbid you, but like I said, this thread made me do it!

[dragon813gt]

Good thing I haven't been looking on Gunbroker lately ;)
That's a sweet price for a shooter. The tang cracks are what bother me. Stocks in good shape are getting harder to come by.

[seaboltm]

Good thing I haven't been looking on Gunbroker lately ;)
That's a sweet price for a shooter. The tang cracks are what bother me. Stocks in good shape are getting harder to come by.

I do quite a bit of stock building and repair work. Tang cracks are not hard to fix and eliminate. I thought $406 was a decent price, and would have paid a tad more. Glad I didn't have to. I have thought about adding a custom stock to the rifle, since the tang is cracked and it has been drilled for sling swivels.

[M-Tecs]

This one decided it needs to come home with me http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=428195573

I have quality replacement wood in hand. It may grow up to be a 358 someday - not sure about that. I may also cut the cartridge counting window.

[dragon813gt]

I need one in 308 to round out my collection. Well I guess I need one in 250 Savage as well :)

[seaboltm]

This one decided it needs to come home with me http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=428195573

I have quality replacement wood in hand. It may grow up to be a 358 someday - not sure about that. I may also cut the cartridge counting window.

Nice! Actually, I was watching that one too. But for some reason I really wanted a 300 Savage. I have a BLR in 308. Glad you got Savage fever medicated.

[M-Tecs]

Nice! Actually, I was watching that one too. But for some reason I really wanted a 300 Savage. I have a BLR in 308. Glad you got Savage fever medicated.

I didn't see this one until today. I wanted a 308 or 300 but the thought of turning it into a 358 stopped me from bidding more on the one you purchased. Worked out the best for both of us.

[TXGunNut]

This thread cost me $406. I got the itch for a 99 and bought one yesterday, a mid 50's version in 300 Savage. Thanks guys!

Glad I could help![smilie=l: I've been cruising the used gun racks for over a year thanks to these 99 threads. My Murray book came in the mail yesterday so life is good on my little spot on the prairie. :bigsmyl2:

[TXGunNut]

Hello M-Tecs. Sorry I outbid you, but like I said, this thread made me do it!

Nice rifle, congrats!

[TXGunNut]

I didn't see this one until today. I wanted a 308 or 300 but the thought of turning it into a 358 stopped me from bidding more on the one you purchased. Worked out the best for both of us.

I like the .358 idea, maybe next time.

[M-Tecs]

Because of your "help" I now have another winter project that I do not need. I like stock work but I hate checkering. I swore I would never checker another stock but for this one I will make an exception. It has some drying checks but it still should be nice.

[TXGunNut]

Because of your "help" I now have another winter project that I do not need. I like stock work but I hate checkering. I swore I would never checker another stock but for this one I will make an exception. It has some drying checks but it still should be nice.






Very nice indeed. Beautiful grain. More than once I've been a sucker for a nice piece of wood, never thought of getting the wood first. Glad it's working out for you, looking forward to watching this project come together.

[TXGunNut]

Scope came in, got lost between the front door and my office. Guess it's sitting on someone's desk for the weekend instead of on my rifle.:-( If it wasn't so hot I'd dig out another scope.
Did sit down and get a good start on the Douglas Murray's "The Ninety-Nine". Murray did his homework and all but the most avid collector could learn something from this book. Old ad copy is a nice addition to the large amount of useful data about the rifle and all it's versions and revisions, finally making sense of all the things I've seen and heard.

[dragon813gt]

Just bought that book. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can learn something :)

[TXGunNut]

Just bought that book. Can't wait for it to arrive so I can learn something :)

Hope you enjoy the book! Your posts have been a good source of information and inspiration on this subject. I'll be interested in your feedback on this book. Based on my reading so far mine was built between 1957 and 1960 but based on my other research it's difficult to get an exact fix on the date of manufacture. It seems to me the factory did a large run of receivers from time to time, enough to last several years. Serial numbers only tell me which era the rifle was made, the jewelled bolt helps narrow the time frame a bit as it started in 1957 and this variation was built until 1960. This disagrees with the info I've seen about the letter on the lever boss so the need for more research is indicated. ;-)
I wish my pictures did this old rifle justice. It truly is amazing to have a 50+ year old rifle in this condition.

[dragon813gt]

Manufacturer dates are rough estimates at best. The fire destroyed their records and w/ them pulling parts off the shelf it's anyones guess as to when they came out of the factory. I've pieced together what I know from reading all the info I can find on the Internet and my grand father. I wish I would have asked him more before he passed. The first centerfire rifle I ever shot was his 99 in 300 Savage. It's been downhill ever since :beer:

[TXGunNut]

There is indeed something special about the 300 Savage. I found it interesting that the 300 often had a longer barrel than other cartridges. Haven't run across the rationale for this but suspect it will give me a little insight into loading for this cartridge.

[gnoahhh]

Hope you enjoy the book! Your posts have been a good source of information and inspiration on this subject. I'll be interested in your feedback on this book. Based on my reading so far mine was built between 1957 and 1960 but based on my other research it's difficult to get an exact fix on the date of manufacture. It seems to me the factory did a large run of receivers from time to time, enough to last several years. Serial numbers only tell me which era the rifle was made, the jewelled bolt helps narrow the time frame a bit as it started in 1957 and this variation was built until 1960. This disagrees with the info I've seen about the letter on the lever boss so the need for more research is indicated. ;-)
I wish my pictures did this old rifle justice. It truly is amazing to have a 50+ year old rifle in this condition.

The records weren't lost in a fire. John T. Callahan has them. He's the "official" Savage historian and will look up your rifle for a small fee and send you a letter with all pertinent info. There's a sticky with his contact info on the Savage Collectors forum on the 24 Hr. Campfire website.

In a nutshell, the lever boss code is the last word for when a rifle was built in the late 40s through the 50s and 60s. If an earlier coded rifle has later features (such as a jewelled bolt) that just means it was doctored by somebody after the fact.

[TXGunNut]

I'm convinced the dates of running changes are far from absolute, have read something to that effect in a few places and it's the only explanation that makes sense. Murray's book says the jewelled bolt started in 1957 but the lever boss date code suggests it was built in 1954, my shooting buddy's rifle was built in 1955 and the bolt on that rifle is jewelled as well. May be worth a letter to Mr Callahan.
That's not terribly important, merely interesting. I'm not a collector, neither is this rifle. I'm a shooter, so's my new (old) rifle. Took her to the range today even though her new Weaver scope is MIA and I only had factory J-words :oops: to shoot. I dug out that R-word scope and it was just barely long enough to clear the rings so I mounted it and took it shooting. After sight-in it had no difficulty maintaining 3" @ 100 yds even though I was just plinking, barrel was hot and I was getting used to the trigger. That Hornady Superformance is pretty decent ammo, should have buckled down and shot a group just to see what it could do. Can't recall last time I fired factory made centerfire rifle rounds out of anything bigger than a mouse gun, may need to grab a pound of Superformance powder if that's what they're loaded with.

[35 shooter]

Glad you got to shoot your "new" rifle. I've never owned a savage lever, but have handled a few, and always liked the way they felt in the hand. It's been a long time since i've seen one on the gun racks for sale around here.

[TXGunNut]

The ones I've seen have had a bit too much "character". I've always done better buying 95-98% guns and a Savage in that condition takes awhile to find. I'm going to go play in the loading room for awhile. ;-) Have a new set of dies and a comparator tool to play with.

[TXGunNut]

If you intend to make 300 Sav from 308 Win brass as I often do. You'll probably need one of these (link)
300 Savage chambers are kind of particular when it comes to its cartridge-ages head spacing.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator?cm_vc=ProductFinding


Thanks, friend! I did a little reading and decided this would be a good addition to my bag of tricks even without planning on using .308 cases. The 99 pushed the shoulder on the factory rounds about .008 and I found out the adjustment was right on the money for a couple of other rifles I'm working on right now. With the price/availability of brass these days this tool will pay for itself in no time.
I even wrote the comparator lengths for all three rifles inside the die box.

[35 shooter]

Got that new weaver mounted yet? I think your gonna really like that scope with that rifle. Should be a slick handling package.

[TXGunNut]

112180


Oops, can't make that target picture go away. Oh well. My usual crappy picture of a nice gun. Too late to try another pic, sorry.

[TXGunNut]

Got that new weaver mounted yet? I think your gonna really like that scope with that rifle. Should be a slick handling package.

I do like it so far. It's a Classic 6 power fixed so it will take some getting used to. Rifle seems a bit heavy for a levergun but this variation was built as a heavy hunting rifle.
Cases are in the cleaner but not planning on shooting it for at least a month or two. I think it might make this winter's project list. ;-)

[35 shooter]

Looks great! You'll get used to it in no time. I used a set 6 power on my hunting rifles for most of my life. I got so used to it that even up close in heavy cover i could just shoulder the rifle and instantly be on target. Of course in my neck of the woods, a 4 power probably would have been a better choice for the closer shots, but the 6 power worked well at the range too so i just stuck with it.
In fact that very scope is on a shelf in my closet now and if my "new fangled" variable scope gives any trouble, it's going right back on.

That rifle and scope really do look good together. It's making me have visions of one in .358 win., then again, that little .300 is a pretty cool cartridge.

[TXGunNut]

Thanks, was sweating the clearance a little with those low rings but it worked out great. Maybe a nice 358 will follow one (or both) of us home some day. I seriously considered the K4 but figured the K6 would be more versatile. I really need to quit buying every nice rifle I see but some I just can't pass up; scope, dies & brass really adds to the tab on these new-to-me cartridges...hope I have a mould or two that will work.

[dragon813gt]

scope, dies & brass really adds to the tab on these new-to-me cartridges...hope I have a mould or two that will work.
This is exactly why I started buying based on if I could make the cases from 308. The dies are never much money. But brass adds up quickly. Having a bunch of 30 and 35 cals makes mold selection easy as well. I've been looking for a 250 Savage and a 30-30 and a......you get the picture ;)

[TXGunNut]

I used to think dies were expensive but you're right, a few hundred pieces of brass can get a bit pricey and with some cartridges you'd better buy it when you see it. Gave up on finding Hornady component brass for the 300, got a hundred pieces of Winchester brass coming in tomorrow.

[dragon813gt]

Received my copy of "The Ninety-Nine" today. It appears that I have a 99 R in 300 Savage that was produced between 1957-1960. It has a jeweled bolt so it was towards the end of the model run. The more I look at it the more I don't think I'm going to refinish this one. The bluing is almost perfect. The lever has a lot of case hardening left. The only issue is the tang cracks. Maybe I'll just have Tim fit the new stock to it. This way I can always put the original back on. To many decisions to make :laugh:

[TXGunNut]

Sounds like a sister to mine. If you're talking about the stock you posted picks of earlier I agree 100%. Would be tempting to get the case hardening redone but a gun with a little honest wear is nice too. Have you posted pics of this rifle?

[dragon813gt]

I don't think I've posted any of this one. It looks like a Savage 99. Does that help you visualize it ;)

I'd reblue it before redoing the lever. The bolt and lever condition are the main reasons I bought it. I should probably get out and shoot it more before I decide to screw w/ it.

[TXGunNut]

Pretty easy to visualize, all I have to do is go out to the kitchen. Mines still in the rack getting a good Hoppe's soaking.

[TXGunNut]

I give up, what's the likely twist rate of this rifle? I've read 10, 12 and even 14. Haven't tried the tight patch method but it acts like a 1:10.