Why I getting wrinkles?

[Elbow]

Keep getting wrinkles in my Leec309170f boolits. I am using 50/50 WW pb. Is it a lack of Tin or a tempature issue?

[DeanWinchester]

Scrub mold with dawn and a tooth brush and real hot water. Then rinse with acetone.
youve likely got a contaminate.

[Artful]

If they had been casting good now showing up with wrinkles then I'm with deanwinchster it's probably a contaminate, If you have never gotten the mold to cast without wrinkles it could still be a contaminate or it could be casting cold.

[country gent]

As stated above you may have a contanimated mold. 2% tin added might help alot also. What temp is the alloy? are you ladle or bottom pouring? How are you heating the mold? All of these can cause wrinkles and or poor fill out. Clean mold good with dawn dish soap several times and allow to completely dry. Get you pot up to a solid 650-700*. Warm mold to tempon a hot plate or on top of the pot. Make sure your getting a full clean stream of hot metal from the spout. Cast and watch bullets closely. Some molds may like a centered pour some a edge pour that sort of swirls into the cavity. Pous a solid stream and a heavy sprue. Maybe even over pour the sprue a little. Also make sure the alloy is well fluxed and clean.

[docone31]

Wrinkles come with cold.Heat soak the mold.Sprue should freeze in six seconds.

[Pb2au]

Your mold needs more heat.
Preheat your mold on a hot plate, if available.
Cast at a steady pace, no goofing off between pours, no gawking at boolits from the mold. Just get your pace going and keep on trucking.
that is to say, after you make sure that mold is squeaky clean as the others have stated.
you lubed the alignment pins right? Sprue plate too? Please don't tell us you lathered it with beeswax, alox, or candle soot for that matter....we will be very disappointed.
My mold lube of preference is a anti seize. Just a microscopic dot smeared on each alignment pin, and the same microscopic amount smeared on the underside of the sprue plate. Just enough to leave a slight haze. Microscopic amount.......not kidding here.

[GP100man]

Lubes purging from the pores , smoke the cavitys lightly with a butane liter .

GP100man

[docone31]

Wrinkles come with cold.Heat soak the mold.Sprue should freeze in six seconds.

[bangerjim]

I have the same mold. Casts excellent boolits.

Never degreased it.....smoked it right out of the box with BEESWAX candle only.......heat on a hotplate to FULL casting temp (not just warm)....casts perfect wrinkle-free boolits every time from the 1st drop.

You problem as stated above is a cold/under temp mold.....not grease or contamination.

2% Sn is highly recommended. COWW's only have 0.5% Sn. Add more and your like will be much easier.

That mold WILL work.....and very well! Only lube you need is a touch of blue 2 cycle motor oil on the joint and pins. And a very VERY thin layer on the plate. But getting it in the cavities will not cause wrinkles. Heck, the old guys used beeswax IN the cavities for good boolit release!!!!!!! It DOES work! But I will not go there in this thread.

Have fun!

bangerjim

[DeanWinchester]

I have the same mold. Casts excellent boolits.

Never degreased it.....smoked it right out of the box with BEESWAX candle only.......heat on a hotplate to FULL casting temp (not just warm)....casts perfect wrinkle-free boolits every time from the 1st drop.

You problem as stated above is a cold/under temp mold.....not grease or contamination.

2% Sn is highly recommended. COWW's only have 0.5% Sn. Add more and your like will be much easier.

That mold WILL work.....and very well! Only lube you need is a touch of blue 2 cycle motor oil on the joint and pins. And a very VERY thin layer on the plate. But getting it in the cavities will not cause wrinkles. Heck, the old guys used beeswax IN the cavities for good boolit release!!!!!!! It DOES work! But I will not go there in this thread.

Have fun!

bangerjim



Are you high?

[runfiverun]

your gonna have to fill me in on the b-wax in the cavity's thing too.

[Bzcraig]

your gonna have to fill me in on the b-wax in the cavity's thing too.

Enquiring minds want to know!

[FLHTC]

Are you high?

[smilie=l: I have to buy me some BLUE 2 CYCLE motor oil. Is that the color or the brand name? All I have is dark green two stroke oil. :shock:

[Janoosh]

+1 docone 31. I also believe it's a temperature problem..scrub mold with comet and toothbrush...rinse well...heat it up...mold and alloy

[randyrat]

I scrub the inside cavities with Ajax or Barkeepers friend and a toothbrush only enough to take the roughness or tinny burrs and any oil or grease left behind. Last step I clean with Dawn and a toothbrush to lift any deposits left by the abrasive.

You can try just Dawn , but you may have to come back and scrub with a super fine abrasive, why waste the time and do it right the first time.
I never smoke any molds anymore, smoking molds seems to be a band aid fix.

Wrinkles are a sure sign of a cold mold

[Roosters]

Dirty mold
Mold to cold
Either one or combination of both = wrinkles


Are you high?
Cracked me up. :grin:

[jonk]

Sorry, but we can't say. 4 possibilities.

1. Oil in mold. Solution: degrease, clean, dry, try again.
2. Not enough heat. Try a higher heat.
3. Contaminated alloy- zinc for instance. Try the alloy in another mold.
4. Not enough tin. Unless close to pure, probably not the issue.

[gtgeorge]

I have found RandyRat's lanolin helped with my wrinkles. :bigsmyl2:

Ooops I'm sorry those were my wrinkles. As others have stated for the mold, heat it up after cleaning thoroughly and your bullets should be wrinkle free.

[Tatume]

Why am I getting wrinkles?

My wife asked me the same thing. I didn't answer.

[bangerjim]

Are you high?

No. Just the facts, Jack.

banger

[DeanWinchester]

No. Just the facts, Jack.

banger

If you say so my friend. Who am I to say what works for you. I think I'll keep oil and anything else besides lead out of my cavities.

Btw, just teasing you;). No insult intended. Well, not a serious insult anyway. :)

[bangerjim]

your gonna have to fill me in on the b-wax in the cavity's thing too.

Try it. Being an engineer by trade, I experiment and tinker around a lot with everything and after reading all the whining/warnings/scare tactics on here and other places about oil and beeswax in & on molds, I actually tried it to see if I could achieve WRINKLES in my boolits!

1st.........I use my molds to cast hot melt glue boolits. PAM is the lube for the cavities. You cool the mold with an ice cube rubbed along the bottom. After casting maybe 400 gluelits, I wipe off the water and PAM with a paper towel and go right to casting hot lead the next time out. No cleaning and scrubbing and scrubbing and cleaning. NO WRINKLES.....EVER. Now, a cold mold or under temp lead or low Sn.............YES.......I can get wrinkles. Or weird angles of flow into the mold cavity, or too slow a flow stream. But not from grease. I have also found if I preheat my molds to full CASTING TEMP, not just warm them, on a hotplate, they will drop perfect boolits from number one. Besides, I think this "wrinkle-free" goal seems to possibly be purely for cosmetic value/bragging rights only??? A small wrinkle here or there will not hurt anything, especially if you PC your boolits. They all fill in!

2nd..............Same thing with beeswax. I took several molds and after casting a bunch of perfect wrinkle-free boolits in lead, I put beeswax (just a TINY bit) right inside (OMG!) the cavities and continued to cast. NO WRINKLES! Just a little wax floating on the top of the drop water. And a little pleasant-smelling smoke from the mold. And I kept casting for quite a while after the wax introduction with no problems. And in a couple molds, the wax actually improved the drop by eliminating any slight sticking and/or hang-up that was there. I other words, it DID lube the cavities!

I think the fear of oil and wax is a thing that has been perpetuated over time and no real study or research has been done on it. Well, I did it. And from what I found, the fear and loathing of oil and wax may turn out to be an urban legend.

Sorry if you do not agree. That is y'all's prerogative on here!!!!! But I am only presenting the pure research facts and my personal proof here.

Do what you feel is necessary in your personal quest for wrinkle-free boolits. I know what it takes for me to achieve Galena Valhalla.

Good casting!

bangerjim

[bangerjim]

[smilie=l: I have to buy me some BLUE 2 CYCLE motor oil. Is that the color or the brand name? All I have is dark green two stroke oil. :shock:

I got mine at WalMart. A little tiny bottle will last you a lifetime! The color (whatever it is) is there to let you know you have mixed the oil and gas for your 2-banger engines. The oil is high temp formulation for those run-hot style engines. Seems to work well on the joints and pins.

banger

[Pb2au]

bangerjim,
you sir, are a rebel.
Wait, ,,,,,,,,you aren't one of those heretics that powder coats your boolits are you?

[bangerjim]

bangerjim,
you sir, are a rebel.
Wait, ,,,,,,,,you aren't one of those heretics that powder coats your boolits are you?


Yes, I have been accused of being a rebellious soul at times!!!!!

And...........I am a PC'er and I am NOT PC!!!!!!!!!!!! BOOOOOOOOOO!

HA......ha.

banger

[RogerDat]

What about the AC oil for pins and sprue plate? Read on the forum that it was the cats cajoles as a mold lube for that purpose. Picked some up have not tried it yet.

[bangerjim]

What about the AC oil for pins and sprue plate? Read on the forum that it was the cats cajoles as a mold lube for that purpose. Picked some up have not tried it yet.


Don't know about that stuff. Mabe others will chime in.

The idea is to use an oil that has a very high breakdown temp and 2 cycle engine run hot and is evidently why it helps on the pins and joints. I am not a hydrocarbon chemist so I go on what I read and have good luck with.

I just hate that "squeeky grindy" feel of un-lubed hot molds!

banger

[62chevy]

What about the AC oil for pins and sprue plate? Read on the forum that it was the cats cajoles as a mold lube for that purpose. Picked some up have not tried it yet.

My biggest complaint with AC oil is that dye they stick in it to find leaks. I've been using anti seize and that work fine on the pins and joints you can get to. Thinking a bottle of 2 stroke might be the way to go.

[Pb2au]

It was Btroj I believe that figured out the A/C oil as a mold lube.
In fact, I'm pretty certain there is a sticky on it around here somewhere.

[Pb2au]

Here tis,
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?227043-Mould-lube
very interesting read.
Bangerjim, im not sure what we should do with you however. You may be beyond redemption. What with the beeswax and powder coat powder addiction.

[bangerjim]

Here tis,
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?227043-Mould-lube
very interesting read.
Bangerjim, im not sure what we should do with you however. You may be beyond redemption. What with the beeswax and powder coat powder addiction.


6 guns at high noon?

HA.....ha.


But never NEVER mix PC and beeswax........it looks and smells so much like candy, you may eat it!


banger

[Bullwolf]

What about the AC oil for pins and sprue plate? Read on the forum that it was the cats cajoles as a mold lube for that purpose. Picked some up have not tried it yet.

My biggest complaint with AC oil is that dye they stick in it to find leaks. I've been using anti seize and that work fine on the pins and joints you can get to. Thinking a bottle of 2 stroke might be the way to go.

You can find the Air Conditiong ester oil without dyes or seal conditioners. I had to search a bit online, or at a few stores to find it that way.

110329

The CarQuest brand works well, but man does it like to migrate! Less is more with this stuff. I only use a tiny bit on a Q-tip.

I also have had moderate success using Permatex (silver colored) anti-seize. I had already used it a lot as a mechanic on lug nuts, and spark plugs, and exhaust bolts, and other stuff you wanted to be able to remove later, so basically I was already pretty comfortable using it and I usually have some on hand.

http://www.carid.com/images/permatex/automotive-chemicals/anti-seize-lubricant.jpg

The Anti-seize is somewhat messy to use. I get silver on my gloves and everything else that I touch when using the stuff. It really seems to work well on mould alignment pins though.

Another decent mould lube that Geargnasher mentioned a while ago is Dielectric grease.

Dielectric grease can be found easier than AC oil at most automotive stores or even at your local Ace hardware. You would ordinarily use it on things like spark plug boots, and tail light/turn indicator bulbs, or electrical connections to protect them from corrosion and such.

Dielectric grease stays put, is clear and not messy to work with. It also readily handles the temperatures we use while casting very well

Most of the time I simply use Bullplate on a Q-tip, and re-apply as needed during a casting session. I tried out a few other lubes while searching for an alternative to Bullplate when it's availability became questionable, and just to experiment with some as well.

I found the dielectric grease worked well.

http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-5758565dt.jpg

I used Permatex brand dielectric grease pictured above.



-Bullwolf

[Pb2au]

6 guns at high noon?

HA.....ha.


But never NEVER mix PC and beeswax........it looks and smells so much like candy, you may eat it!


banger

Im thinking more along the lines of blunderbusses at 20 paces.
No worries about the PC and wax thing, I'm not convinced it would look tasty to me!


I use the silver anti-seize myself. It can be messy. I touch the end of a q tip to the tube, and found that to be plenty.

[MBTcustom]

^^^^^^Truth! ^^^^^^^

The good Sergent is........how shall I say it.........cosmetically challenged?
:kidding:

[DeanWinchester]

^^^^^^Truth! ^^^^^^^

The good Sergent is........how shall I say it.........cosmetically challenged?
:kidding:

Obviously. Look at his picture there. Yikes!

[62chevy]

Bullwolf I have some dielectric grease some where haven't used it as I didn't think it would hold up to the heat. And yes read the posts on Kroil and AC oil thanks for the link think I'll read it again.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Are you high?

Nope, he isn't high, he's speaking the truth. He's just a little more knowledgeable than some other folks about things that work.

[Pb2au]

And Banger is a rebel. We established that in post #25.

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

BTW, for the doubters about two cycle oil, take one of those little bottles that are sent out from our custom mold guys as lube. And go to Walmart, get a bottle of Two cycle oil for outboard motors. The "blue" stuff. Open both bottles, smell them, smear some on your finger, rub the two fingers together. Use one as lube on one mold and some of the other as lube on another mold that casts the same boolit.

Cast with both molds, recording all results you find, then report back your findings.

Just a thought,

Dave