Best so far in my 30-30 Marlin.

[44man]

Should be in lever guns, I know.
This is 100 yards with my home made 187 gr boolit with 26 gr of 3031. Nice round groups and I shot three at the pop can after, yeah it is three shots. Why I hate paper.
I size my boolit .311" and use Felix lube, thing is turning into a target rifle. Need to chrono it but should be pretty fast, over 1900 fps. 110171

[scattershot]

Nice shootin'. Is that a GC or plain base boolit?l

[44man]

Nice shootin'. Is that a GC or plain base boolit?l
It is a GC. I cut the cherry kind of free hand on the lathe, got the check portion a little large so I have to pad the nose and tap the checks on with a tiny hammer! [smilie=l: I am kind of crazy and very lazy in my old age but I don't buy much.
Ran out of Fed primers and those shots are mixed with Rem primers too.

[Hickok]

I would write down all the particulars of that load in my log book and right beside it "#1 load Marlin 30-30."

[osteodoc08]

Nice shootin

[357maximum]

Nice shooting Jim, I would be very happy with that. Deer killin medicine for sure and a guy would have to be plum nutsy cuckoo to not be happy with that. Don't need no charts or graphs to prove you got some "GOOD" there. :bigsmyl2: Deer whacker supreme I say....good on you....make sure you post the pics of the venison in a few months. :drinks:


Mike

[Pb2au]

Excellent shooting sir! With a self made boolit no less. The hat is tipped in your direction.
This thread got me to consider something;
minus a savage 30-06 I recently (and foolishly sold), my marlin was the easiest rifle I own to get to shoot cast well. As a point of fact, even when I knew pretty much zero about boolits, I started out getting good results. Mind you, I started out well armed with a lot of research here of course.
it just seems that crazy marlin just likes to shoot cast.
Sorry for the thread drift, thanks for sharing

[fatelvis]

According to Quickload, you should be getting 1833fps with 87.2% case fill, 93.52% powder burned, and 24,809psi pressure. Sounds like a good load!

[butch2570]

It is a GC. I cut the cherry kind of free hand on the lathe, got the check portion a little large so I have to pad the nose and tap the checks on with a tiny hammer! [smilie=l: I am kind of crazy and very lazy in my old age but I don't buy much.
Ran out of Fed primers and those shots are mixed with Rem primers too.Jim, I don't know if you're shooting the 210 or 210 Match , but Ammunition to Go has both in stock if that's your preferred primer, Butch

[44man]

Jim, I don't know if you're shooting the 210 or 210 Match , but Ammunition to Go has both in stock if that's your preferred primer, Butch
Good to know, thanks.
Can't wait to get more loaded.

[35 shooter]

Very nice shooting and with a homemade boolit and mixed primers no less. Makes me want a 30/30 lever gun just that much more!

[Don Purcell]

Jim, I take it you are water dropping your bullets. Do you just run hot and drop from the mold or do you oven treat a batch to get more consistency? Or does it matter?

[357maximum]

According to Quickload, you should be getting 1833fps with 87.2% case fill, 93.52% powder burned, and 24,809psi pressure. Sounds like a good load!

How'ed you get all that without seating depth or barrel length?

[Larry Gibson]

Probably based on the usual 20" barrel and seating to the base of the neck. That would be a good guess as the oal is limited to 2.52" +/- for reliable feeding through the action. 27 gr of 3031 under a 177 gr 311041 runs just under 1900 fps out sever M94s and Marlin 336s (a very good load BTW). So considering 10 gr more bullet weight and 1 gr less 3031 the QL figure looks about right.

Regardless of the actual velocity that is a very good shooting load in that Marlin.

Larry Gibson

[DrCaveman]

Nice shootin, nice load. I didnt know you shot rifles too ;)

That little pic makes the boolit look a bit like my rcbs 180-fn. Is there any chance you can upload a pic of the boolit before loading? I never get a full .311" out of mine, and they drop heavy. Im workin on that

Good to see 3031 doing so well with the heavy 30-30. Id have thought it was a little fast for that kind of performance. And... Ive actually seen it recently on a store shelf

Good stuff, inspirational. Thanks for sharing

Oh yeah: scope or irons?

[44man]

Jim, I take it you are water dropping your bullets. Do you just run hot and drop from the mold or do you oven treat a batch to get more consistency? Or does it matter?
I just water drop, BHN is around 20. I don't get fussy and don't worry about time to drop. Never seen where it meant anything. I wait a few days before loading is all.

[44man]

Nice shootin, nice load. I didnt know you shot rifles too ;)

That little pic makes the boolit look a bit like my rcbs 180-fn. Is there any chance you can upload a pic of the boolit before loading? I never get a full .311" out of mine, and they drop heavy. Im workin on that

Good to see 3031 doing so well with the heavy 30-30. Id have thought it was a little fast for that kind of performance. And... Ive actually seen it recently on a store shelf

Good stuff, inspirational. Thanks for sharing

Oh yeah: scope or irons?
Sure thing. I use a cheap Tasco scope, Some gremlin stole all my open sights years ago.110214
I use straight COWW's, nothing added. The bore ride against the front band is .302", they cast .312" and they are 1.007" long. Base to top of crimp groove is .515". The check is just below the start of the neck. Top of check is at the junction of the shoulder. I get very slight resistance at the final closing of the lever.
One thing I found is the brass needs neck turned to just even it out or there is a lot of run out. I have .002" or less run out. 30-30 brass has uneven thickness.
I seat and crimp all at once. I use Hornady dies.
I hold the forearm and set my hand on the front bag. Doesn't shoot as good with wood on the bag.
I shot 5 with 4895 first, went to 3031, then to the can ( had a weight on the can so it would not move.) I get the barrel very hot without a change. Almost burned my thumb on the barrel once.
Fairly new gun, I think after Rem took them so it must be a Remlin. My grandson had the Marlin .44 with the stupid twist rate, never got it to shoot so I sold it and had to replace it. Got the 30-30 on sale at Dicks Sporting goods. I wanted the SS 45-70 Guide gun but it was double the price.
This one has a laminated stock and I find nothing wrong anywhere.
Maybe he will shoot a deer next season, I use revolvers.

[44man]

So how did the H4895 do? I assume worse but how much?
A little worse but still decent. About a 2" group but the last time I had 7/8" Still a good choice to work with.
I tried all the fast powders and never got what the slower powders will do. 4227 is junk and even 4759 did not reach 3031.

[BABore]

44man,You should have told me! Could have saved you all them components. I've been shooting 26 grs of 3031 in my Marlins for years.

[44man]

44man,You should have told me! Could have saved you all them components. I've been shooting 26 grs of 3031 in my Marlins for years.
Well, I have three boolits I have played with. One is 193 gr.
I agree that 3031 is a good fit, Good to hear from you.
Been a bad time lately, had to change the front wheel bearing and axle on carols 4 runner, then work on the mower. Not fun under machines at my age! Then two storms came through to rip branches off trees. Just cut a huge one that fell out of a maple next to the house. Wind must have been 80 mph. Tons to pick up all over the yard.
Got a new bearing and axle from Rock Auto. Perfect fits and only $118 for both. I had to pull the old bearings and take to a friends with a press to install them. Saved thousands but I am beat!
Work never ends!

[357maximum]

So if I am reading the last 4-5 posts correctly.... you guys are saying that 4895 is not the only powder on the planet and that we should actually try something other than what we have used for the last 40+ years since we purchased a railcar load of it ? Next thing you will be telling the group that the Earth is not flat and that I should not just tear a drewl soaked chunk out of my pillow and stuff it in that there case of 4895 to make all things better? BLASPHEMY

[BABore]

And don't forget the lube! It's a wonder ole 44man is doing as good as he is with that nasty old Felix lube (no offense Felix RIP). I guess he could do worse and still be using 50/50.

[44man]

And don't forget the lube! It's a wonder ole 44man is doing as good as he is with that nasty old Felix lube (no offense Felix RIP). I guess he could do worse and still be using 50/50.
One of the greatest members we had. We conversed many times and I considered him a friend. I knew about his problems long ago but He told me to keep quiet and I respected his wishes. The loss to all of us brings a tear all the time.
He was always diplomatic with words of wisdom. I will forever miss him.

[44man]

So if I am reading the last 4-5 posts correctly.... you guys are saying that 4895 is not the only powder on the planet and that we should actually try something other than what we have used for the last 40+ years since we purchased a railcar load of it ? Next thing you will be telling the group that the Earth is not flat and that I should not just tear a drewl soaked chunk out of my pillow and stuff it in that there case of 4895 to make all things better? BLASPHEMY
That is funny. Had good results with it too. It works but I screwed up again with primers. Looked on my bench and found a box of Rem LR magnum primers sitting there with 10 missing, so whet the heck did I have in those loads? I need to start over. Could I have had a mix of Fed 210's, Rem 9-1/2's and Rem mags? I swear I don't know what primers were in the last three shots.

[GhostHawk]

LOL I have 2 powders currently, IMR 4895 and 3031. For me the 3031 is I guess and emotional attachment. My very first steps into the reloading world was with a .243, a 60 gr BTHP from Hornady, and a can of Dupont 3031. Charge was I believe 30 grains.

That was a very long time ago, and I still have that can of 3031, and it still works.

I prefer the 4895 for my pair of Mosin's and my Yugo SKS, but the 3031 works well also.

Call me an old softie, but I still get a smile every time I think about those 60 gr BTHP reaching out and touching a crow at 3-400+ yards.
One crow down in an explosion of feathers, the rest of the flock takes off crying and calling excitedly. "*** WAS that!"

Grin

[44man]

Nothing will replace 3031 in the old .222. 1/2" groups at 250 yards from old Rem rifle. 4064 was the powder in the .220 Swift. I could not hit a crow with the .222 over 300 yards but the swift was good to over 400 for a crow and good for chucks over 600.
Guys do not know what we did long ago. The old pre 64 Winchester in .220 Swift was a master with some work. The 722 Rem was as good with a little work.
Never liked the 22-250, wrong twist. light bullet gun. The .244 Rem was amazing but not with deer bullets so it lost out to the .243. The .244 was a VARMINT GUN. But could have put the .243 in it's place with a few twist offers. The .244 is superior in every way.
The .280 Rem is better then the .270 Changed to the .280 express then back, same gun but never caught on. Still better. More bullet choices then a .270.
It is you shooters that dictate what caliber is best based on what you do. You ruin good calibers and guns. Same as revolvers that must have 4" barrels or less.
I blame stupid for the loss of good calibers and guns more then anything.

[357maximum]

One of the greatest members we had. We conversed many times and I considered him a friend. I knew about his problems long ago but He told me to keep quiet and I respected his wishes. The loss to all of us brings a tear all the time.
He was always diplomatic with words of wisdom. I will forever miss him.


Totally agree, he was thee best moderator this board has ever seen and he never even wore the hat. He confided his issues with a few and never once did I see those issues posted anywhere on this forum until the end was near....goes to show what WE thought of him. He will be forever missed by many. I know I miss him dearly.

I know Babore personally (he may not admit to that) :lol: .. Babore meant no disrespect...he was merely stating that lube is another variable to be tested, some lubes are better than others in different applications. Too many here want to pick a "it is what it is" and call it a variable and profess it to the point of total understanding on THAT ONE FAKE VARIABLE.....that is a mistake IMO, I have made it myself.

The variables are the instruments that make up the orchestra. Change out one instrument and you have changed the whole orchestra. Certain variables can eithe be made by Stratoverias (sp) or they can be made by Mattel and they cannot be expected to act the same way and they will indeed change the tone for the rest of the orchestra going on around them. Your barrel is not gonna change, that is what it is unless you have a fat wallet and nothing else that needs feeding from that wallet. Your barrel is nothing more than the stage that the orchestra is sitting on..... nothing more.....large tweaks and small tweaks to the real variables you can control are what seperates a symphony from MERE NOISE....the trick is to make the best NOISE you can with what you have available I guess. I would say you have pertnear done just that.

I would say your NOISE from that STAGE is damn fine indeed....nice shooting 30-30 there. I would hunt with it and be Merry. I think most here would also.....lot to be said from that.

[357maximum]

That is funny. Had good results with it too. It works but I screwed up again with primers. Looked on my bench and found a box of Rem LR magnum primers sitting there with 10 missing, so whet the heck did I have in those loads? I need to start over. Could I have had a mix of Fed 210's, Rem 9-1/2's and Rem mags? I swear I don't know what primers were in the last three shots.


It could be real simple....... in that gun with that load.... the PRIMER VARIABLE is not a big variable and may not be "vital" to THE LOADS success. It could also be you timed the flinches and the jerks just so that it made it unimportant for THAT GROUP. You will find the answer to that one next time out I would bet.

[357maximum]

LOL I have 2 powders currently, IMR 4895 and 3031.

I have never been able to make such a statement, doubt I ever will be able to. My "nature" prevents such a situation. If my life depended on me being able to list what I have in powder varieties, I would be in serious trouble, as in not living kind of trouble. Hats off to you, I wish I could come closer to that goal, but I fail everytime I attempt it...I give up.

[44man]

Totally agree, he was thee best moderator this board has ever seen and he never even wore the hat. He confided his issues with a few and never once did I see those issues posted anywhere on this forum until the end was near....goes to show what WE thought of him. He will be forever missed by many. I know I miss him dearly.

I know Babore personally (he may not admit to that) :lol: .. Babore meant no disrespect...he was merely stating that lube is another variable to be tested, some lubes are better than others in different applications. Too many here want to pick a "it is what it is" and call it a variable and profess it to the point of total understanding on THAT ONE FAKE VARIABLE.....that is a mistake IMO, I have made it myself.

The variables are the instruments that make up the orchestra. Change out one instrument and you have changed the whole orchestra. Certain variables can eithe be made by Stratoverias (sp) or they can be made by Mattel and they cannot be expected to act the same way and they will indeed change the tone for the rest of the orchestra going on around them. Your barrel is not gonna change, that is what it is unless you have a fat wallet and nothing else that needs feeding from that wallet. Your barrel is nothing more than the stage that the orchestra is sitting on..... nothing more.....large tweaks and small tweaks to the real variables you can control are what seperates a symphony from MERE NOISE....the trick is to make the best NOISE you can with what you have available I guess. I would say you have pertnear done just that.

I would say your NOISE from that STAGE is damn fine indeed....nice shooting 30-30 there. I would hunt with it and be Merry. I think most here would also.....lot to be said from that.
Thank you so much about your thoughts on Felix. Those that come after will never know the loss.
But I feel I know you and Babore even though we never met. It is important to me.
I know he did not disrespect Felix, Babore feels the pain of loss.
Felix also was a member of WWW. wedealinlead.com and jay asked me to get some of you to come over. Great site and you can cuss if needed, but not at each other, respect is top.
The site is like this one and many from here are there also.

[BABore]

Huh! Must have been why I put "(no offense Felix RIP) following my sentence.

[357maximum]

Huh! Must have been why I put "(no offense Felix RIP) following my sentence.

You guys gave an opening to talk about a great man that I dearly miss....I took it and it helped ME, that's all. You KNOW I am cheap, and I get cheap therapy wherever/whenever I can.....so THANK YOU BOTH

[BABore]

Do I know you?

[Remiel]

i have the new remlin 336w, does the cast boolits lead the barrel up?

[357maximum]

Do I know you?


I dunno, not sure I know myself somedays.

[357maximum]

i have the new remlin 336w, does the cast boolits lead the barrel up?

1. Welcome to the fray, 2. Read all you have time to read here. 3. It will not lead the barrel if you do things correctly, and all that info is right here on CastBoolits.

[Pb2au]

What he said.^^^
welcome the forum! There is about a million years of reading for you to do.
Take some time really researching proper fit of the boolit to get started.
also, you have the Lyman cast bullet loading manual right????
hit amazon and scoop that book up, excellent resource.

[DrCaveman]

i have the new remlin 336w, does the cast boolits lead the barrel up?

Well, the original post (which you hopefully read, along with every other post prior to yours) didnt say anything about leading the barrel up. In fact, it described a very efficient and accurate load

If a load leads the barrel up, it wouldnt be touted by a member with 15,000 plus posts as a good one.

Welcome to the forum...id be surprised if you post again. No offense. Maybe do a little general research about 'cast lead bullets in guns' on google and you will find the answer to this first question. Then come back, read a dozen stickies, search for threads regarding marlin 30-30 with cast boolits, then ask a more specific question

If you provide the particular boolit & powder you are contemplating, you might get an answer worth reading

Otherwise

'no, not if you do it right'

[44man]

Can't add anything, never had any leading at all with all the boolits I have shot from the Marlin.
I also get the gun blazing hot because being lazy, I put up enough targets and move from load to load. Been too hot outside and the gnats drive me crazy so sessions are short. I swear the bugs drive Humvee's down there! :bigsmyl2: Got a huge welt on my fore head.
Remiel, welcome, I see it is your first post. You will get to understand all of us and see that we really care. You might have much work to do but the answers are here if you search.
We will not ignore any questions either, you might get a poke in the ribs now and then but if the guys put up with me, they will put up with anyone! [smilie=l:
Soon you will understand everyone.
The Marlin can be a chore because of the shallow rifling and bores are larger so fit is important. Many factory molds cast too small but the RCBS 150 I bought is correct and some Lyman molds will do it. Depends on whether cherries were re-sharpened when the molds were cut.
But right here you will find the best mold makers to be found. Also those that sell beeswax and a source for lanolin cheap. Wall Mart has the rest. Make your own lube and cast your own boolits.

[Remiel]

Well, the original post (which you hopefully read, along with every other post prior to yours) didnt say anything about leading the barrel up. In fact, it described a very efficient and accurate load

If a load leads the barrel up, it wouldnt be touted by a member with 15,000 plus posts as a good one.

Welcome to the forum...id be surprised if you post again. No offense. Maybe do a little general research about 'cast lead bullets in guns' on google and you will find the answer to this first question. Then come back, read a dozen stickies, search for threads regarding marlin 30-30 with cast boolits, then ask a more specific question

If you provide the particular boolit & powder you are contemplating, you might get an answer worth reading

Otherwise

'no, not if you do it right'

The one of the guys teaching me cautioned against using cast due to the microgroove rifling, I am still learning and I am finding that its a pain to get bullets. a friend of mine has casting equipment from his father and i have been debating making my own, i have actually bought boolits from a member here to try out in my shotgun. so i will do as you say and do some more reading and see what i can learn.

[Remiel]

Can't add anything, never had any leading at all with all the boolits I have shot from the Marlin.
I also get the gun blazing hot because being lazy, I put up enough targets and move from load to load. Been too hot outside and the gnats drive me crazy so sessions are short. I swear the bugs drive Humvee's down there! :bigsmyl2: Got a huge welt on my fore head.
Remiel, welcome, I see it is your first post. You will get to understand all of us and see that we really care. You might have much work to do but the answers are here if you search.
We will not ignore any questions either, you might get a poke in the ribs now and then but if the guys put up with me, they will put up with anyone! [smilie=l:
Soon you will understand everyone.
The Marlin can be a chore because of the shallow rifling and bores are larger so fit is important. Many factory molds cast too small but the RCBS 150 I bought is correct and some Lyman molds will do it. Depends on whether cherries were re-sharpened when the molds were cut.
But right here you will find the best mold makers to be found. Also those that sell beeswax and a source for lanolin cheap. Wall Mart has the rest. Make your own lube and cast your own boolits.

Pokes in the ribs i am used to, its all part of the learning curve. i don't have any casting gear yet and if i start it will be with borrowed equipment for a time until i get my own. as far as powder all i have is IMR 4895, all i could get in my area haven't decided on a boolit yet, just looking to learn and see what i can find out.

[44man]

True my boolits are kind of heavy, just came out that way, I can't predict what the boolit will be. But I have been to 7/8" with 4895. It works fine. I think it was the mixed primers the other day. I am running out of stuff, got the notice from Midsouth about primers, started to order and kept getting a message that secure site failed, something in my computer that I can't find. I went to phone an order and the phones were out, still from the storm we had. Primers now out of stock again.
I want to get some more done and chrono today.

[357maximum]

Jim

Computers can be just plain evil....I truly believe the one I am currently using is Female and at certain times...well it just do not wanna do what it normally does.

I have been a light for caliber boolit/bullet freak most of my handloading life....over the past few years I am seeing the light however thanks do very determined and patient friends. Sometimes a heavier boolit/bullet just makes other "variables" in the equation "easier" and more "friendly" to work with. On occassion the heavy boolit makes things possible that otherwise are considered impossible" by some because of the way they change/alter/enhance burn rate. Heavy boolits are real good way to make short barrels do things and remove/lessen hurdles. Just another way of changing the variables that some say do not exist or choose to ignore........... Use what works and be MERRY.

[DrCaveman]

Remiel

Good to see you back! Nice responses, it shows you are indeed listening, and learning.

As for figuring out microgroove barrels, there are several old threads on this forum that discuss that issue in detail.

Id recommend copying 44man's procedure here, especially the sizing (.311") and the water dropping (pretty hard, 18 or greater bhn probably).

My own experience with a bit older marlin 336 showed a 200 gr boolit, sized .311", with a solid load of h414, shot real well and moved fast. 44man has me now wanting to try the 3031 (if it is still available where it was before).

Bottom line: make sure you get a mold that can drop .311" boolits or larger. You can always size them down if need be

[44man]

I feel the best thing I did was get rid of run out due to neck thickness variances. I can roll my loads without wobble.
It is said it is not needed with hunting rifles but there are no flies making the brass even in any rifle. Lead will not pull straight if started off center.
I use the RCBS neck turning tool, easiest ever to use. I just remove brass from the thick side and the cutter rarely cuts on the other side much. Most cut about 3/4 of the way around.
Just like revolvers, brass can be your curse.
Brass will shoot better fire forming after cutting too.
Brass in a lever gun needs trimmed often too, flex in the action but you still want to size just enough for easy bolt closing, I do not run all the way to FL.
BR basics really do work in lever guns.
I never bought 30-30 brass, all are pick ups. I don't even have enough of one brand so some are WW and some Rem or Fed.
Just do what is needed and don't pucker your butt. Just remember if you start a boolit off center, it stays that way. It will be a flier and it is caused by the brass. Just like a soft boolit in a revolver will not pull the cylinder.

[357maximum]

Jim


#46 .......Most excellent post....thank you

[C. Latch]

Nothing will replace 3031 in the old .222. 1/2" groups at 250 yards from old Rem rifle. 4064 was the powder in the .220 Swift. I could not hit a crow with the .222 over 300 yards but the swift was good to over 400 for a crow and good for chucks over 600.

When I was young and knew everything, I had a 700 in .220 Swift that preferred 3031 over 4064. I don't remember the charge weight exactly, but it would stack Sierra 55-grain boattails with remington brass, cci BR primers, and a large amount of 3031. Quarter-inch groups (100 yards) were common. Everything I shot at with that rifle just up and died, and quickly. That load averaged 3865' at 10' from the muzzle.

I later hit a money crunch and sold the rifle, and sometimes I miss it.

[44man]

When I was young and knew everything, I had a 700 in .220 Swift that preferred 3031 over 4064. I don't remember the charge weight exactly, but it would stack Sierra 55-grain boattails with remington brass, cci BR primers, and a large amount of 3031. Quarter-inch groups (100 yards) were common. Everything I shot at with that rifle just up and died, and quickly. That load averaged 3865' at 10' from the muzzle.

I later hit a money crunch and sold the rifle, and sometimes I miss it.
I used the 60 gr Hornady in the pre 64 Swift, mod 70. never had to see a hit, heard it. A crow at over 400 yards to see wings float out of a tree, rest was GONE! Amazing gun, wish I still had it. I used the B&L Balvar 24 on it, best scope ever made. My pain to this day is the loss of the scope.

[Remiel]

i will be doin a lot of listening and learning, as of yet i do not have the coin for my own gear yet, so for now its research, research, and more research

[44man]

i will be doin a lot of listening and learning, as of yet i do not have the coin for my own gear yet, so for now its research, research, and more research
Get a Lee 20# production pot, a Lyman ladle and a Lee mold. Cheapest way and they work. Cast iron pot on a stove with a ladle works too. Billions of boolits were cast on camp fires.

[Remiel]

Get a Lee 20# production pot, a Lyman ladle and a Lee mold. Cheapest way and they work. Cast iron pot on a stove with a ladle works too. Billions of boolits were cast on camp fires.

I need to get the go ahead from the wife first, but its on my list

[44man]

I need to get the go ahead from the wife first, but its on my list
Life not easy and being on SS I know all about it. But I shoot my big revolvers up to the .500 JRH at 10 cents a shot. What I bought all these years has paid for itself 1000 times over. You need to spend a little but go look at factory ammo prices once.
Even the guns I shoot meant selling a lot that I will always miss. Some are worth more then my home today.

[butch2570]

I need to get the go ahead from the wife first, but its on my list Seeking Forgiveness is easier than Seeking Permission!! :shock:

[44man]

From day one, my wife has handled the money and paid bills. It worked. The house was paid off much quicker and as bills from Visa come in, she pays it off. We even have a little in the bank.
I still have to ask when I need something.
I have $7 in my wallet now, set aside for some chew. (She doesn't know that, good thing she can't use a puter!)
My riches is a box of pennies on the shelf! [smilie=l:

[Three44s]

Remiel,

I'll second 44man's advice on getting a lee mold.

There are folks here that rant about them and those of us that revere them.

Don't panic about leading ........ and don't be afraid of your Micro groove.

The way I started in cast was to begin with revolvers. You see the larger the bore, the easier it is to get your feet wet at this game.
And there is no easier way to get into revolvers than with the tumble lube series of molds. Long barrels are harder to see if you are clean or not and more work to de-lead if you should get in that situation.

In short what I do starting with a new to me revolver is to take a piece of white paper and lay it on the recoil shield in good over head light. You peer down the muzzle and you can see very well by tilting the bore axis such that the paper is illuminated.

For cleaning I use copper chore boy, CorrosionX and JB or USP bore paste.

When I get to the point where it's not leading appreciably .... I drop the abrasive bore paste (JB) but continue with the CorrosionX.

My apologies to 44man for hijacking his thread!

Three 44s

[Remiel]

Seeking Forgiveness is easier than Seeking Permission!! :shock:

She is an avid shooter too, and i have found its better to ask first, much easier to deal with than the quest for forgivness

[Remiel]

Remiel,

I'll second 44man's advice on getting a lee mold.

There are folks here that rant about them and those of us that revere them.

Don't panic about leading ........ and don't be afraid of your Micro groove.

The way I started in cast was to begin with revolvers. You see the larger the bore, the easier it is to get your feet wet at this game.
And there is no easier way to get into revolvers than with the tumble lube series of molds. Long barrels are harder to see if you are clean or not and more work to de-lead if you should get in that situation.

In short what I do starting with a new to me revolver is to take a piece of white paper and lay it on the recoil shield in good over head light. You peer down the muzzle and you can see very well by tilting the bore axis such that the paper is illuminated.

For cleaning I use copper chore boy, CorrosionX and JB or USP bore paste.

When I get to the point where it's not leading appreciably .... I drop the abrasive bore paste (JB) but continue with the CorrosionX.

My apologies to 44man for hijacking his thread!

Three 44s

i have a wish list and i will add those to it, its not something i can do right away, but i plan to work up to it in time.

[Catshooter]

Remiel,

I too am on a fixed income so I understand.

Be aware though that there is a storm approaching. When the Presidential election cycle starts up soon I expect that Hillary will run. If she does you can be fairly sure that all the things you need will start disappearing and increasing in price.

There are rifle powders showing up on shop shelves now. We still aren't seeing any pistol/shotgun powders though.

I would plan accordingly. In fact I put my money where my mouth was. Ten years ago I saw both retirement (meaning a smaller income) and the Liberals coming. I buckled down and bought, bought, bought. It wasn't easy. I sold some goodies to help finance it too. But the long ugly years of the Obama scare shortages affected me not at all unless I wanted to start up with a new caliber.

You know your own situation and what you can and can't do. Just a word to the wise that I hope can help.


Cat

[triggerhappy243]

I'd be proud as a rooster if i could shoot cast that well. the marlin has micro-groove rifling? great job.

[Loudenboomer]

I have $7 in my wallet now, set aside for some chew. (She doesn't know that, good thing she can't use a puter!)
My riches is a box of pennies on the shelf! [smilie=l:


44man you have found happiness in being a "Simple kind of man" Something a fork lift load of money cant buy.

[44man]

Micro groove is OK as long as you have fit. I sold the stupid Marlin .44 mag because of the twist. Had Ballard rifling but measurements showed less lands and grooves but the same dimensions, .003" deep grooves and bore the same as micro groove. More lands and grooves of the micro groove is better. If Marlin would reduce the bore size so rifling is .006" in the Ballard, cast would be better.
A good round ball ML needs .010" deep grooves.
Many good revolvers only have .004" deep grooves and would benefit with deeper for cast. I would love to see .006" in a revolver.
I would rather have a micro groove in a Marlin. It affords more grip.

[44man]

All of you should never worry about hijacking a thread. All thoughts are welcome. It is learning.
We would never shoot cast like we do with shorts in a wedgie.
There are very few sites with common sense any more. Most have a King with draggers. Never dispute the King.
A new guy might have 50 or 60 years of work, Might have gold nuggets to share. Might be poor as a titmouse but actually had to work harder. The man with less money will win out. If you have a faucet leaking or a toilet that does not flush, do you call a plumber? If an outlet fails, do you call an electrician? lawn mower won't start, do you get it picked up from a shop?
Shooting is the same. Never run to a gunsmith for some simple thing.
There are guys that buy a new rifle with a scope, have it bore sighted with the thing in the muzzle and go hunting without ever shooting the gun first.
I have to leave, a neighbor dropped off a chipper that won't start. More money then I have but I know how to fix it, they don't.

[w30wcf]

All of you should never worry about hijacking a thread. All thoughts are welcome. It is learning.
We would never shoot cast like we do with shorts in a wedgie.
There are very few sites with common sense any more. Most have a King with draggers. Never dispute the King.
A new guy might have 50 or 60 years of work, Might have gold nuggets to share. Might be poor as a titmouse but actually had to work harder. The man with less money will win out. If you have a faucet leaking or a toilet that does not flush, do you call a plumber? If an outlet fails, do you call an electrician? lawn mower won't start, do you get it picked up from a shop?
Shooting is the same. Never run to a gunsmith for some simple thing.
There are guys that buy a new rifle with a scope, have it bore sighted with the thing in the muzzle and go hunting without ever shooting the gun first.
I have to leave, a neighbor dropped off a chipper that won't start. More money then I have but I know how to fix it, they don't.

+1

w30wcf

[44man]

Got the chipper fixed, one pull starts it now. got some good booze and a little money so eat your hearts out. Need to cast some boolits now, so will be away a while.

[Pb2au]

Remiel, i apologize if my response seemed a bit flip.

44man as usual hits the nail on the head! ^
Remiel,
With Marlin's, the rifling is simply shallow. So this is why getting your boolit fit spot on is so important here. (also read into this a bit further, booolit fit is the key to the kingdom in all cases. In Marlins, they simply can be more sensitive to it.)
In the beginning, we learned to slug the bore of a rifle or handgun, measure that slug and size at least 0.001" over that for our boollit diameter. In most cases, that will get you off and running without leading up the barrel.
Now to expand on that, we learned that understanding the dimensions of the throat of the rifle was indeed even more useful. This allowed us to size a boolit even a wee bit bigger to promote an even better fit to the bore, and to in addition to that, coincide the centrality of the projectile the best we can to the axis of the bore. Remember, our lead projectile doesn't have a copper jacket to deal with errors in loading technique, errors in machining in the firearm and so on and so forth. So we are rewarded with even better accuracy by removing as many variables we can.
So, to better answer your question from before, yes, you can absolutely shoot boolits from your Marlin with great success and without leading.
Again, I apologize for coming off a bit snarky. Please ask questions, we are all here to help one another.
I also bow my head for the thread drift.

[Remiel]

Remiel, i apologize if my response seemed a bit flip.

44man as usual hits the nail on the head! ^
Remiel,
With Marlin's, the rifling is simply shallow. So this is why getting your boolit fit spot on is so important here. (also read into this a bit further, booolit fit is the key to the kingdom in all cases. In Marlins, they simply can be more sensitive to it.)
In the beginning, we learned to slug the bore of a rifle or handgun, measure that slug and size at least 0.001" over that for our boollit diameter. In most cases, that will get you off and running without leading up the barrel.
Now to expand on that, we learned that understanding the dimensions of the throat of the rifle was indeed even more useful. This allowed us to size a boolit even a wee bit bigger to promote an even better fit to the bore, and to in addition to that, coincide the centrality of the projectile the best we can to the axis of the bore. Remember, our lead projectile doesn't have a copper jacket to deal with errors in loading technique, errors in machining in the firearm and so on and so forth. So we are rewarded with even better accuracy by removing as many variables we can.
So, to better answer your question from before, yes, you can absolutely shoot boolits from your Marlin with great success and without leading.
Again, I apologize for coming off a bit snarky. Please ask questions, we are all here to help one another.
I also bow my head for the thread drift.

No worries, I am used to snark(you should meet the wife), i work in a company that if you don't have a thick skin you wont last long. besides its better than getting whacked with a wrench. But correct me if i am wrong, i been reading and seeing that the lyman #311291 drops in .310 and works well in the 336's, what lee mold is recommended with the marlin, and whats a good alloy to pair with IMR4895?

[Pb2au]

I have used the 170 grain Lee 309 F mold with very good results. It is a gas check design.
My alloy is wheel weights, air cooled with Lyman moly lube.
I have not used 4835 IMR with this combo, but I believe you would be in good shape with WW alloy, water dropped to harden it up a bit. Honestly I would try both water dropped and air cooled and check. Are you planning on hunting or punching paper? If hunting, we need to think about performance on impact and that might change the alloy strategy.
I got Good results with the bullet sized to .309", but I got way better at .311" Check out a sticky that Goodsteel did on slugging (pound cast) the chamber of a rifle. That will help get you up to speed on sizing for throats in general.
I have never used IMR 4895 for 30-30 myself, but that is not to say it hasn't been done. I've used 2400 powder to great effect, as well as 335 (ok results) as well. For plinking, Trailboss is an easy win.
I hope this helps.

[44man]

I use plain WW's water dropped. I do not hunt with a rifle so don't know if the alloy is good for deer.
Might want a softer nose without softening the drive bands.
Best is going to be .311".

[Remiel]

as far as alloy i was given free reign and on friends bullet trap for scrap lead, and i had planned on doing some plinking and hunting, I have no issues doing up 2 different types of lead for the applications if i have to

[44man]

Free lead is good.

[hardy]

Well put.Sir....Self sufficiency Rules...Cheers Mike

[blackthorn]

Quote: "I would plan accordingly. In fact I put my money where my mouth was. Ten years ago I saw both retirement (meaning a smaller income) and the Liberals coming. I buckled down and bought, bought, bought. It wasn't easy. I sold some goodies to help finance it too. But the long ugly years of the Obama scare shortages affected me not at all unless I wanted to start up with a new caliber."


^^^^^ This (with a Canadian flavor)!!