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Scott_In_OKC
01-19-2008, 10:20 PM
Sorry for the noob question, but I couldn't find anything with a search...

How do you remove type from the wood backing? Does is just peel off? I've got a line on ~50 lbs (30-40 plates) of this stuff. That weight does include the wood backing. Better question, is it any good to use?

http://www.sdnewell.com/Images/TypeCloseUp.jpg http://www.sdnewell.com/Images/TypeWide.jpg

grumpy one
01-19-2008, 10:26 PM
Depends who cast the plates. If they came from a reputable manufacturer and were intended for a long print run, they should in principle be foundry type, which is a marvellous alloy source though not a lot of use in pure form (too much antimony and tin). If they were from a smaller shop they may be monotype, and if a small-volume print run was intended they may just be lino (possibly depleted lino, since they were to be made by a foundry process).

So, unless they are really weird (e.g. made from a substitute material such as zinc) they are a high-antimony alloy and very useful for alloying. Depending on your luck they may be foundry type at best or depleted linotype at worst. Both are valuable alloys.

Calamity Jake
01-19-2008, 10:33 PM
I would think you could peel it off by driving a puddy knife between the plate and wood, should come off pretty easy.

Arnie
01-19-2008, 11:05 PM
If this is foundry type it is really hard stuff .I had some and cast some bullets with it .You could put a lino cast bullet and a foundry type bullet nose to nose in a vise and tighten down and the foundry type would go right through the lino bullet like it was pure lead .Arnie

grumpy one
01-19-2008, 11:47 PM
If this is foundry type it is really hard stuff .I had some and cast some bullets with it .You could put a lino cast bullet and a foundry type bullet nose to nose in a vise and tighten down and the foundry type would go right through the lino bullet like it was pure lead .Arnie

Yes, they should be 30-33 BHN air cooled. I made some bullets from foundry type too, and found them close to useless - no chance of getting them to obturate, so they were very unforgiving of any fit or barrel imperfections. That meant unless you shot them in something like a bench gun you were likely to end up with gas cutting, and the vaporized alloy condensed onto the inside of the barrel then got ironed-on by the bullet, after which it was seriously difficult to remove compared with any civilized alloy. I don't plan to make any more bullets from foundry type. Lovely stuff for sweetening WW, though.

mooman76
01-19-2008, 11:55 PM
You might try heating them up in an oven. Not enough to melt but to heat up the glue so it will soften. Other than that a chisle with a sharp edge like a wood chisle.

Lloyd Smale
01-20-2008, 08:14 AM
try a heat gun

Rottweiler
01-20-2008, 04:18 PM
a couple good hard whacks with a sledge should break them loose, or break the wood . OR if the pot's big enough, just toss the whole thing in tither the lead will melt away or the wood will burn away

nagantino
01-20-2008, 04:31 PM
scott, that looks like a lovely little artifact, "most people nowadays", and might be worth keeping. Put a little frame around it and hang it in your workshop or in your home. Any more like it?

Scott_In_OKC
01-20-2008, 04:34 PM
I haven't bought it yet, I'm in "negotiations" with the owner right now. It definitely has some sentimental value to him, I believe he wrote the articles.

waksupi
01-20-2008, 04:37 PM
Yeah, it may be worthwhile saving. Years ago, I found a collection of this type stuff, that was from an antique knife catalog. i sold those to a collector for a good price. I also know a guy who owns a small newspaper in Iowa. When he took over the operation, and started cleaning things out, he found several printing plates from back around 1900, advertising a performance of Buffalo Bill's wild west show. I don't believe I would melt those ones down!

crabo
01-20-2008, 06:48 PM
You might be able to Ebay them and buy a lot more ww or lead with the money.

Typecaster
01-20-2008, 07:14 PM
Wait a minute...looks to me like what we used to call a "cut" or photoengraving...and is most likely ZINC. It's how photographs, etc. were done for letterpress—a light-sensitive (photosensitive) emulsion was spread on the zinc, and exposed to UV light (carbon arc) through a negative of the photo and/or type. The emulsion was removed from areas that didn't get exposed, then hydrochloric acid was sprayed on the plate, and etched (engraved) away the unprotected zinc.

Follow this link...especially note the sloping sides to the type in Scott's photos.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photoengraving

Typecaster
01-20-2008, 11:13 PM
Another thought: this wasn't cast—since the thickness (front of image to back of wood) is critical, I think this had to be etched. Look at a slug of linotype or foundry type letters—the dimensions from impression surface to the bearing surface are exact.

Do you think you could cast a sheet like this (look at the thickness of the penny in the photo for comparison) and have it be the right thickness and parallel, then be able to glue it to the wood? If we assume that this was an advertising "cut", it be printed on the same signature or form as text and/or headlines. Remember, the wood-backed "cut" must match the thickness of any type.

My bet still would be that it's not foundry type or lino...but an etched plate. But I'm remembering back to the '60s, when I had hair...

grumpy one
01-21-2008, 10:18 PM
Typecaster, I'd just about bet you're right. I'm glad there is someone on this board with actual experience in the printing industry to deal with issues like this - you've probably saved a fellow member from buying something completely useless.

Flinchrock
01-21-2008, 10:25 PM
Typecaster, I'd just about bet you're right. I'm glad there is someone on this board with actual experience in the printing industry to deal with issues like this - you've probably saved a fellow member from buying something completely useless.

Yeah,,,ya might wanna listen to Typecaster on this one!

Scott_In_OKC
01-21-2008, 11:32 PM
Typecaster, I'd just about bet you're right. I'm glad there is someone on this board with actual experience in the printing industry to deal with issues like this - you've probably saved a fellow member from buying something completely useless.

The gentleman selling them had a change of heart anyway and decided to keep the plates for sentimental reasons. Thanks for all the insight though!