First casting kit need much advise

[Bud421]

Hello all I'm looking to set up my first casting kit, can anybody help me build a list of what's needed? I read the lyman 4th gen manual and have a decent understanding on what to do. What else do I need besides a...
1-single stage press
2-casting furnace
3-boolit mold
4-lube and size kit
5-lube
6- gas checks(having a hard time finding them in 30cal)
7-safety gear and lead.
I would really appreciate the help. Also wondering if I need a thermometer or a top punch. Would also love to hear thoughts on which type of product to buy

[hickfu]

Find the lead first before you go for any of the other stuff. If you cant find the lead then the other equipment will be useless

[jmort]

No single thread will get you all the answers. You are talking about reloading and casting which are related, but different enough that only sizing and gas checks overlap. I would start with commercial cast boolits and learn reloading and then get into casting. Is $$$ an issue? If so, that will drive your purchases. If it were me, I would get this:
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/7524

Then you can get casting equipment and lead alloy.

[Bud421]

Sorry I confused you guys, I reload. Just getting into casting. Was thinking of buying the lead already made(pricey I know) but I mathed it out and I would still save $. Getting a pro 4 20lb furnace I have a mould getting 30cal gas checks the lee .309size, lube kit and some flux. Would I need more to start off?

[jmort]

"Was thinking of buying the lead already made..."

Makes sense to start off with a foundry alloy. You could get Lyman's #2 from RotoMetals and mix it 50/50 with their pure lead. That would work real good. Then when you start smelting, you could get what you can get whatever, and smelt your own alloy.

[Bud421]

I was planning on getting #2 yes. Sorry didn't add enough info. I'm loading some 160gn 30 cal rounds. I'll look into making my own alloys once I'm comfortable in casting. Does anyone see anything I missed though? How do I install gas checks?

[Lead Fred]

Dont forget a skimming spoon, and a ladle to get the lead to the mold

I do not waste for the whims of the gas check makers to try and find any. Pat Matin's check maker is the coolest die set I have.
I do have one for every caliber I cast for. (Cept 45ACP which go so slow you dont needem)

[Grizzly Adams]

If you get what's on your list up till now, you'll be ok. You'll need a wooden dowel (I use about 12" off of a shovel handle) or non-marring hammer, a couple of spoons you can pick up from a yard sale (😉kitchen). Your here so your probably going to try it, but don't invest to much until you know if you are going to like it. Some hate it, to some it's just an means to a end, if it goes past that, then you can start spending some real money 😂.

[220]

What you have listed will get you started.
I started with an old sauce pan, a lee tumble lube mould, a ladle.
I was casting for 38/357, tumble lubed and shot unsized.

You can seat the gas checks by hand running them through the size die will crimp them in place.
If your using the lee push through size dies you will need to use one of the tumble lubes, pan lube, PC or HT.

[mikeym1a]

Depending on the brand of the sizing die you use, the slug is either pushed through the sizer nose first, or butt first. Normally, the gas check just snaps onto the butt of the boolit, and is squeezed tight as it goes through the sizer. I personally use the Lee sizing system, and use Lee Liquid Alox. I have had good luck with it, so, I have not experimented with any other type. One thing I have found is that the mold needs to be good and hot to make good boolits. When I get ready to cast, I take the desired mold, put it on the hot plate, sprue plate down, and let it heat up. That gets the sprue plate hot, and allows the alloy to flow into the cavity without solidifying at the opening. While the mold is getting hot, the lead pot is getting up to temps, and when both are ready, I start my casting. Even though I have preheated my mold, I usually have to put the first 10-20 casts back into the pot, as the mold is not quite up to heat, yet. I usually drop my casts into a pot of water, not because I want them harder, but because it cools them off faster. I enjoy casting. I find it theraputic. And, when everything works out right, it is very satisfying. I hope you enjoy your new hobby. I find it does much more for me than save money. Cheers! mikey

[GhostHawk]

I recently got started casting. I'm loading for a pair of Mosin's and a SKS so mine are all .312, my biggest single issue was lube. As a long time fishing sinker caster I knew the basics of how to fill a mold, how to prewarm it, smoke it for release, etc.

The whole world of bullet lube, pan lubing, etc was all greek to me, so I spent a lot of time here working things out.
The good news is it can all work very very well. In my case I ended up buying some White Label Carnuba red to mix with my homemade recipe and voilla, all was well. A few powders tested and I quickly found that for the shooting I do, 20 grains of IMR 4895 worked wonderfully in that old Yugo SKS, and hit exactly where I aimed.

My first experience with shooting cast had me cleaning the lead out of that SKS barrel for 3 days.

This time it was more like 3 patch's and when I looked it was shiny. So for me it was the Lube that was the key to making it all work.

The Lee Molds I bought work fine, I actually love the lee sizer, I have found I have better success with my cast if I put the gas checks on first, then lube, then I run them through the sizer again which removes the excess lube. Leaves my bullets nice, clean ready to be loaded then have their little noses polished before I send them downrange.

Best of luck to you, enjoy the journey.

[stubert]

Get the Lyman #3 cast manual also, Lots of us feel it is better than the #4.

[Bud421]

Thank you to everyone here helping, I have a much better view on what needs to be had at the start. My equipments on the way so after I get some spoons to remove dross and a rubber mallet(or something like it) I'll be back here showing off my results and looking for ways to improve. One last question. How do I get my boolits pushed into my lee .309 size, luber? I just thought about it. Is there a special "shell holder"?

[mdevlin53]

I would suggest that you have a seperate pot and heatsource for smelting your alloy. if you buy ready made metal from a supplier you can just dump it in your pro-melt or what have you, but if you are going to smelt the alloy from some other source it is always a good idea to have a seperate pot that way you dont muck up your pouring pot with dirt and heaven forbid zinc or some eaqually bad stuff. jut a thought.

[mikeym1a]

I have smelted, and melted alloy for casting in the same pot. I just made sure that the pot was cleaned between the two different uses. However, the OP stated that he intended, for the time being, to use foundry alloy, so he won't need to worry about dirt and debris fouling the pot. If he decides to go on 'walk-about' in search of various and sundry lead alloys, then he will have plenty of time to get another pot. mikey

[Bud421]

Which lee sizing system mikey? Those $20-30 sets with the lee liquid Alox and the red container I'm assuming? Do you hand push the bullets into that or do you use your press arm?

[dragonrider]

The lee size kits mount in your press, everthing you need is included. Get a thermometer, it is a must for beginners.

[Bud421]

Do I need to get the $50 one on Lyman's site or does someone know a cheaper one that works. Or one for the same amount of $ that's better. I tried looking for a thermometer but wasn't have much luck(prob vuz it has to go up to like 700)

[Bud421]

Nevermind I found one on root metals, thanks everybody! Much appreciated. Will get back to you all when my equipment arrives

[dragonrider]

Roto Metals sells one for $38. Check Amazon also. BTW where are you located?

[Bud421]

Roto metals* and hudson valley NY

[littlejack]

Hey Bud:
Welcome to the CastBoolits.
Over on the "Helping Hands" site, I have to give away, some 30 cal. gc hp boolits. There is also a RCBS loading block in with
them.
If you are interested in getting some free boolits to try out, respond to that thread, and let me know.
Regards
Jack

[RogerDat]

Do I need to get the $50 one on Lyman's site or does someone know a cheaper one that works. Or one for the same amount of $ that's better. I tried looking for a thermometer but wasn't have much luck(prob vuz it has to go up to like 700)

If you have not yet purchased thermometer this is a pretty good deal and well rated by casters. http://www.amazon.com/Tel-Tru-LT225R-Replacement-Thermometer-degrees/dp/B0055777EU/ref=pd_sim_lg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=130BVQ46T04PCVGGK413 With shipping not sure if it is cheaper than rotometals.