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View Full Version : (Almost) total noob, need advice



ElMatavenados
06-06-2014, 02:13 AM
Hey all,
I've been coming here for a while, done a lot of lurking, some buying in the Swappin' and Sellin' forum. I've read most (if not all) of the helpful stickies, but I'm at the point where I need to reach out. I'm sure you've all read about 5 bazillion of these types of threads, but if you feel like helping, I assure you that I will be extremely grateful. And God will bless you for your kind deeds!

I'll try to be as succinct as possible, but this might get lengthy.
My goal: 125-ish grain boolits for a Glock 9mm (yes, I know- Glock says not to reload).
Problem: leading.
My loading background: about 10 years or so of loading j-words for rifles, mostly with an old cast iron Herters press, but lately with a new Dillon 550. New to loading for handguns.

Here's what I've done so far. I started with copper plated 115 gr RN, working up to 4 grains of American Select (it was available locally, cheap)- this was just enough to cycle the gun reliably at around 950-1050 fps IIRC. I have fired about 850 of these, and they work well. Next, I slugged my barrel. Micrometer says that the smaller diameter of the slug is .3495-.3500 (depending on where measured), larger is .3555-.3560. I decided to try a .357 mold and sizing kit, so I purchased a Lee .357 125gr RN tumble lube mold (2-cav), and LLA. I went this route because I want to find out if I'm going to be able to be able to shoot cast boolits successfully before I invest in a good mold, lube-sizer, etc. With the cost of these being so high, even for used ones, I took my brother's recommendation and ordered the Lee setup.

My first batch of boolits was cast from a huge bar of lead I purchased at a metal supply business many years ago. I have no idea what is in it, nor its hardness. I think it's nearly pure, though and soft. I poured a batch, air dropped, sized to .357, and lubed with 2 coats of LLA. Waited a couple weeks, then began carefully firing some test loads. I loaded workups from 3.3gr of American Select up to 3.9. However, I noticed quickly that there was significant leading (after 10 shots or fewer), so I stopped shooting them, and pulled the remainder. I also noticed quite a bit of lube in the first half of the barrel. Additionally, the 3.3gr charges cycled the gun easily, which came as a surprise (nothing short of 3.9 gr would cycle the gun reliably with the 115gr copper plated rounds).

Next, I cast a batch of WW, also air dropped. Sized to .357, 1 layer of LLA, and aged for about 3 weeks. I loaded workups from 3.1 to 3.3gr of AmSel. Even the 3.1gr cycled reliably. I need to see how low the charge can go, and put them through the chrony. But even after only 3 rounds of the mildest load, there were signs of leading. No signs of overpressure on any of these loads, either.

The stickies say that .001 to .002 over the groove diameter should work with 9mm WW air dropped boolits. However, I don't have a .358 mold or sizing die. I could beagle the mold, but I'm not sure if it will help. I could water quench, but again, not sure if it will help. I can reduce the powder charge (and I plan to do this anyway), but I'm not hopeful that this will work. I don't have a mold for a lube-groove boolit, nor a lubesizer.

So what do you think I should try? .358 diameter? Harder alloy? Different lube (45-45-10, or...)?

And finally, if someone here might be interested in a trade, I would be interested in 20-50 125gr TC or RN boolits with lube groove, sized to .358 and lubed with whichever lube you think would work. I'm willing to pay generously for them, too, unless it would be illegal for you to sell them to me. If a trade would be better, perhaps I have something you could use. If this were to solve the leading problem, I would buy a mold and sizer, but I don't like the idea of buying the rig just to find out that I can't get it to work!

I am aware of the aftermarket barrels, but I suspect that I would still have the same leading problems that I'm currently experiencing, until I get the appropriate size and equipment worked out.

I am open to suggestions, questions, criticism, etc., especially if it's intended to help me toward my goal of safely shooting cast boolits in my stock G19 Gen3. Thank you all for making this resource available to noobs like me, and for any help you might offer!

Jupiter7
06-06-2014, 05:26 AM
Easiest way to start from my perspective:

If you're sizing down to .357, then what are the boolits dropping from the mold?

Are you positive you're getting proper fillout? If part of your driving bands are under the .357 sizing then you will get blow by and leading.

Is the leading throughout the barrel or only one specific area? Are you experiencing lube failure by chance?

Handloader109
06-06-2014, 05:44 AM
I you'll pm me your address, I'll send you a variety. I've been using .356 in my glock, gotten away from alox lube due to the smoke and odor in the indoor range I use, (they tend to be picky) at any rate, I can send you some. 358 and unsized also. 125Rn and 120tc 95tc if you want a few. I'll drop in a few PC'd also. Darn tablet! error corrects my correct spellings!

roberts1
06-06-2014, 09:12 AM
pull a loaded round apart and measure the boolit to make sure you haven't swaged it down while seating it.

HeavyMetal
06-06-2014, 10:10 AM
You mentioned a ton of info but not one word about your die set, LOL.

I'll second pulling a round and miking the seated diameter, case in the 9mm are very stiff and have a habit of "shrinking" boolits.

Now having reloaded 9mm for a lot of years I'll make some suggestions:

sort your case's by headstamp and load in batch base on the HS

Check for case length's a lot of variation in 9mm case's trim them all to the same length, us the Lee trimmer set up, it's fastest for cheapest.

If your using a Lee die set with the FCD die in it pull it out of the loading cycle! The FCD die is evil in most pistol calibers.

Hopefully you are going to recieve some regular lubed 9mm boolits shortly, I understand the reason behind your exploring the TL / LLA concept ( I did 35 years ago) but never had it produce results that made me feel good about it.

I will also suggest you try to find a copy of Ken Waters Pet Loads, it neds to have both the 9mm and the second 9mm update. The 9mm update is incredible in it's research for issue with the 9mm reloading process.

Find it read it! It's that good!

ElMatavenados
06-06-2014, 11:41 AM
Easiest way to start from my perspective:

If you're sizing down to .357, then what are the boolits dropping from the mold?

Are you positive you're getting proper fillout? If part of your driving bands are under the .357 sizing then you will get blow by and leading.

Is the leading throughout the barrel or only one specific area? Are you experiencing lube failure by chance?

Thank you all for your great responses!
I don't remember what size they are dropping from the mold. I'll check again. I guess my purpose for sizing is to be sure that they are consistent, especially since it's a Lee mold.

Yes, the fillout looks good, and I'm recycling all that don't look very good.

I think the leading is throughout the barrel, but it wasn't something that I specifically checked. I should have thought of that. As for lube failure, I don't know how to determine that. I'll research it.

Handloader109, that sounds great! I'll shoot you a PM.

Roberts1, I did check for swaging previously, but will do it again just to be sure.



...

You mentioned a ton of info but not one word about your die set, LOL.

Now having reloaded 9mm for a lot of years I'll make some suggestions:

sort your case's by headstamp and load in batch base on the HS

Check for case length's ...

If your using a Lee die set with the FCD die in it pull it out of the loading cycle! The FCD die is evil in most pistol calibers.
...

I will also suggest you try to find a copy of Ken Waters Pet Loads...

Ah, the die set. Lee sizing die, Dillon powder funnel/expander, Lee seating die, Lee FCD. I'll do some research on a replacement for the FCD. What do you recommend?

I will sort the headstamps, and check the case lengths.

And I'll try to find the Waters Pet Loads.

Thank you again for your help. You guys rock!

Wayne Smith
06-06-2014, 08:45 PM
Drop the FCD and pick up anybody's 9mm crimp die. Or pull the sizing ring (Carbide) out of the FCD and use it. It is the sizing ring that is the culprit.

HeavyMetal
06-06-2014, 08:47 PM
As a replacement for the FCD die I will suggest a second seating die, stem removed, and crimp in a seperate station if your usinf a progressive or turret press.

If your batch loading seat bolits to OAL and then crimp with taper crimp die.

Be aware a good taper crimp is hard to see with the naked eye, if you can see it it is way to heavily crimped!

I don't have a box of 9mm in my office so can't speak on a specfic case diameter, I can tell you that just turning the belled portion on the csse in straight is all you need with maybe a touch more crimp.

Over crimping is the biggest mistake made with 9mm reloads.

Try this first and move on from there.

RobS
06-06-2014, 09:06 PM
As been stated, pull a loaded dummy round and check the very edge of the base of the boolit for the diameter. Some have reported that the Lee straigh wall pistol FCD does swage the boolit down and others do not. The only thing that matters is that a pulled boolit is the intended diameter when it comes back out of the case and makes its journey down the barrel. If the boolit is too soft for the case (only seat the boolit and then pull it to check diameter [do not use the Lee FCD]) then you have a few options.

1) size the boolit larger until the pulled boolit is the desired diameter [may run into problems with chambering the loaded round]).
2 Use an expander die that will expand the case to the depth of the seated boolit (often the expander plug/spud is .001" under the needed boolit diameter but others have used .002" under or even the same diameter as the intended boolit diameter as there is case spring back).
3) Use a harder boolit to withstand the case swage (many have used WW alloy [has antimony] that is water quenched).

All this assuming that the barrel is ok for shooting lead boolits. And yes a glock factory barrel can shoot cast boolits but in my experience shooting a properly sized boolit and one that is "harder" typically worked out much better for accuracy as well as kept the bore from leading.

Take if for what its worth.............which isn't worth much but the time in typing this post. Good luck and keep us posted.