Crimping outside of a groove

[aviator41]

Hey all.

I'm loading up some little 105gr bullets and have discovered that the OAL I need has the case mouth smack in between the lube and crimp groove.

Whats your take on crimping where there is no groove? Do I run the risk of a buldged case or out of round bullet?

Do I need to just move back up to the 125gr bullets where the OAL lands right at a groove? This ammo is being run through a tube fed rifle, so IMHO it must be crimped. I just won't risk the gun or those that shoot it with non-crimped ammo.

[dh2]

I would crimp in the grove and see what I got for results,

[aviator41]

If I crimp in the groove of the lighter bullets my OAL is too short, causing occasional double-feeds in m 92, which won't work when you're competing.

[JeffinNZ]

Are you sure you need to crimp such a light projectile?

[WallyM3]

Collet crimp doesn't care where it's crimped on the bullet. See Lee's offerings and Consistent's press handle. I'm thoroughly converted.

[aviator41]

I'm concerned about set back with this bullet. It's quite light, as is the load.

I think there's a Lee FCD for my 38 rounds. in my future/

[WallyM3]

You will not be unhappy. I was particularly impressed with the result I got with 30 M1 Carbine loads. The die doesn't care about neck thickness, just pressure (which I maintain with the aforementioned handle, the correct name of which evades me at the moment...there's a thread on it somewhere in here recently). I'm about ready to try it extensively with .357 (N-frame loads) and 44 Spec.

Edit: I found the link which contains the handle I've been using (though on a R'chucker). I like it and plan on adding one to my CoAx and mebbe my A2.
http://www.bulkreloadingsupply.com/lee-challenger-breech-lock-press-style-consistent-crimp-handle-starter-kit/

[popper]

FCD works great for rifle. That said, if your neck tension is proper, a LIGHT 'taper' crimp works also. It's a feel on the handle thing, especially if you don't trim. Much more difficult if the die is a roll crimp. That light of a boolit probably doesn't need much crimp. Your real problem may be finding enough space between the grooves to crimp on that shorty without swaging the front band down.

[Jack Stanley]

I've used both the LEE factory crimp die , taper crimp and roll crimp to do the job for lever rifles . The key is use just enough to hold the bullet securely . As long as the magazine tube doesn't push the bullets deeper and they aren't moved by the loading process you're OK .

Jack

[mdi]

I too, suggest you look into the Lee collet die or, as many reloaders do, use a taper crimp when using boolits without a crimp groove, or when the OAL necessitates crimping outside the groove.

[aviator41]

Well after much trial and error, I'm able to get an excellent 'roll crimp' using the Lee bullet seater die. I am actually able to seat these to 1.482, allowing me to run them through a Rossi 92 lever action! It's like shooting a pellet rifle! LOL - 'bang - wait - clink' at a target 20 yards away. I had no setback problems, but I did have a couple that didn't seem to want feet perfectly smooth, like an RN would.

So, my plan is to run these a little deeper and use them exclusively for the revolvers. They're so dang mild that I can hear the 'click' of the hammer hitting the transfer bar! I chrono'ed the rounds at just over 650fps in the pistols, keeping my power factor right at limits for Cowboy action shooting and making recoil virtually non-existent. This is the epitome of the 'mouse fart' load and I am sure I will be razzed at the next event. Gotta love load development!

Believe it or not, I'm able to use titewad as my powder. not titegroup, titeWAD. You know, that powder people pick up by mistake? - yeah, love the stuff. LOVE it!

[JSnover]

I think it matters more with jacketed bullets, where a roll crimp in the wrong place could pinch the jacket. On paper targets this might hurt accuracy. On game, the jacket could separate on impact.