I am doing a pound cast, can't get it out.....

[fastfire]

Followed the pound cast as the thread that goodsteel posted.
Lubed the chamber, case and barrel. Went good till the part about getting the case and chamber cast out.
I'm using a brass rod with e-tape and gas check.
At this point the rod lifts out easy but am starting to get a mushroom end on the rod from hammering.
This is being done on an AR10.
Put foot on charging handle to get past the lock, so for is has moved 1/2" and no more.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Also greased the locking lugs.

[MBTcustom]

Hmmm, thats a tough one. Never tried it on an AR before.
The problem is you have a ton of contact area with all the lugs on that rifle. When I did my M1A, I had to bump the bolt handle with a rubber hammer to get it started, but with an AR, you don't have much but that wispy aluminum charging handle to pound on.
No doubt about it though, you've got to get those lugs unlocked in order to get the slug out.
I'm really concerned about your saying that you used electric tape (that was never part of my instructions) and that you have mushroomed the end of the rod over. I have done many pound casts with the same rod, and it's just starting to get a little mushroomed.
You're not supposed to wail on the rod. Just a few even bumps with a heavy hammer is plenty to make a pure lead slug change shape a few thousandths of an inch.
I would try to bump that charging handle with a rubber mallet as much as you can without damaging it, but if you think she's a stuck duck, then you might need to talk to your smith.

[fastfire]

I'm thinking the locking logs wouldn't release.

[DeanWinchester]

Can you get the upper off the lower? If it's moved a 1/2 inch, maybe not.

BUT, if you can, you could rig a hook on a slide hammer. Slip the hook in the back of the carrier and hook onto the cut out portion. Then the slide hammer will certainly make the carrier move to the rear.

[brotherdarrell]

Are you tapping on the rod while putting pressure on the charging handle? I did my AR and this is how I got it to open. Good luck.

Darrell

[fastfire]

Are you tapping on the rod while putting pressure on the charging handle? I did my AR and this is how I got it to open. Good luck.

Darrell

Yes,holding the charging handle while tapping.
I started tapping lightly and did more as that didn't work.

[imashooter2]

If you moved the bolt 1/2 inch, it is unlocked. Do the classic slam of the buttstock on the ground while pulling back the charging handle to use the bolt as a slide hammer to pull the case out. Here is a video that shows the basic proceedure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzBdyubc0Uk

[fastfire]

Ok, I got the stock off and the lower off and am working to get the bolt open.

I can move the bold .153 open and then I put a bunch of lube in the bolt. Going perch fishing tomorrow will let it soak for a day and see if that loosens it up[smilie=b:

[Estalio]

I got a lead 220gr 300blackout stuck and did what the above youtube video stated- It took a few slams, the case came out flinging powder everwhere and left the boolit stuck in the barrel. With the case out, a few light taps with a ramrod and the boolit came right out. Note- I did not crimp my cases. Not sure how much pressure you'd need if you had a heavy crimp, so it may be best to see your smith if you cant get it after a few tries. No need to break your gun if a small sum of cash and embarrassment will do the trick.

[fastfire]

Got it out. The rod is .250 dia, should I use a larger dia? I have another AR10 to do a pound cast I am going to use COWW alloy. The rod went through the gascheck and into the soft pb a long way, maybe the harder alloy will help this.
Thanks for the suggestions, pounded!

[dromia]

Don't use a harder alloy, you will only need harder blows to get it to set up leading to further issues.

I don't like using a gas check as it is bit thin, I put a goodly pinch of kitchen towel down over the slug an pound on that, it seats up firm.

You do need to get your rod as close to calibre as you can, impact casts are also about feel and the bounce on the hammer will tell you when to stoop as well as when something goes wrong like piercing the gas check, with soft lead it doesn't take too much force to set the slug up.

[dromia]

BTW I have found Texas Macs instructions to be helpful, look for impact cast in the article.

http://www.texas-mac.com/Articles.html

[fastfire]

Thanks dromia,
I'll use the paper towel instead of gas check next time. Also a rod that closer fits the bore.
I love this site!!! All of the life experiences of the people here, wish it was written in a book to last forever.
I'm not the best in putting my thought into words, but Thanks

[MBTcustom]

I need to try the paper towel trick. If it prevents this sort of thing from happening, I will amend my tutorial to include it.
You've got to realize that you're not hammering a nail into a 4X4 though. All it takes is a few taps to boost the diameter of the slug.
I'm really glad you got it out, but i'm really concerned that you're not the only one who is going to make this minor mistake.
BTW, how did you end up getting it to unlock? Did you bump it on the floor like imashooter2 recommended?

Also, you really must use pure lead for this. Anything else will not take the impression as perfectly. Just realize that it's very very soft stuff, and don't go too far with it.

[fastfire]

Goodsteel, I had a PRS stock and was able to remove the stock, and the lower. Then place a narrowed pb hammer on the bottom of the bolt and tap it with another hammer.
The rod I was using went down a ways in the impression, he bolt was unlocked I don't know why it wouldn't tap all the way out in the normal manner.