poundcast slug production

[AggiePharmD]

In the pound cast thread it was mentioned that you could pour a lead into hardwood to produce your slug. How would one go about this for a 30 cal slug? My thoughts would be that the depth of the hole would need be at least the average length of a normal bullet for the caliber. Next is how to get the slug out of the wood? Drill the hole completely thru and the plug the back side so the the slug could be tapped out?

[Blammer]

drill a hole all the way through the board, put another board behind it, clamp together, then pour, then unclamp and tap out.

[AggiePharmD]

Duh. Now why didn't I think of that. Over analyzing the problem. Thanks.

Drill bit as close to 311 as I can get or go a bit larger?

[44man]

I did that when a kid to make heavy pellets for long range pigeons. Pumping the gun too much eventually blew the seals but the pellets sure worked.

[Tom Myers]

In the pound cast thread it was mentioned that you could pour a lead into hardwood to produce your slug. How would one go about this for a 30 cal slug? My thoughts would be that the depth of the hole would need be at least the average length of a normal bullet for the caliber. Next is how to get the slug out of the wood? Drill the hole completely thru and the plug the back side so the the slug could be tapped out?

The length of the slug will most likely need to be about 26% longer than an average bullet as a slug with a diameter small enough to fit on up into the bore area will shorten considerably when it is compacted into the full diameter of the neck and throat area.

I have found that if you make your hardwood mold in two halves, just like a regular mold, it works much better. If the lead is poured into a hole, it will char out and form into the pores of the wood which will make the slug quite difficult to remove by simply pounding on it.

http://www.tmtpages.com/draw/UltimateHelp/Slug_Removel.png

The online help files for the, soon to be released, Cast Bullet Design ~ Ultimate software describes the process for constructing the hardwood mold. The complete online help file can be viewed at this link.

Cast Bullet Design ~ Ultimate Help (http://www.tmtpages.com/draw/UltimateHelp/DesignUltimateHelp.htm)

In the contents section at the left of the page, look for and click on the topic titled "Make a hardwood slug mold".

The topic titled "Chamber impact impression" may also be of help to you.

While you are there at the site, browse through all the help file topics and see what you think of the new Ultimate design software

The Cast Bullet Design Upgrade software has been in the works for about three years now and it is finally coming together as something that is working quite well.


Hope this helps.

[Tom Myers]

Duh. Now why didn't I think of that. Over analyzing the problem. Thanks.

Drill bit as close to 311 as I can get or go a bit larger?

In case you miss it in the link to the help file. In order to reveal the lands and grooves, the slug, before impacting, will need to extend up into the rifeling section for a distance. So the slug should be slightly smaller than BORE size, not groove size.

[upnorthwis]

I've used a 3/4" Forstner bit to make lead weights over 2" long. Drilled endwise into a piece of white birch. Flipped it over and they just about fall right out. Used some of the weights to snub the recoil of a 3-1/2" Rem 870 with 2 oz. turkey loads.

[AggiePharmD]

In case you miss it in the link to the help file. In order to reveal the lands and grooves, the slug, before impacting, will need to extend up into the rifeling section for a distance. So the slug should be slightly smaller than BORE size, not groove size.

I appreciate the information and will give the link a study. I'll find a bit as close to 308 as I can and if I can't get perfect I'll a little smaller and extend the length of the slug to allow for fill out. I guess the slug can't be too long can it?

[AggiePharmD]

Looked up the suggested website and info. Easy and we'll illustrated so even I can follow it. Thanks again.