Bull Plate Lube

[Swamprat1052]

I know I'm not telling most of you anything you dont already know but I here goes anyway. I ordered some Bull Plate Lube from Bullshop the other day. I mainly had intended to make some Speed Green Bullet Lube with it, which I did. I used it on a couple of my molds today too and what a difference. I just turned the bottle I used making lube upside down with the lid on and dampened a qtip with it as per instructions. I never casted bullet the quality boollits I did today and sure never casted as many as fast. I never felt the need for more than one pot till today. I have a Lee 20 lb. and have always felt it was plenty. I spent more time refilling the pot than I did casting today. I think I'll get me a Lee 10 lb. pot and mount it above this one and melt in it, like I have read that others do.

I like to think I am getting better at this as well as the lube helping but that is some good stuff. I wont get to try the Speed Green for a while cause my Star Sizer is full of Felix Lube. The Felix Lube does a great job but the Speed Green is easier to make, I am all about easy.

Thanks Bull Shop,

Swamprat

[Blackhawk Convertable]

You might want to get a hot plate to preheat the ingots and your mold. I find no need to have another pot going when I cast that way. By the way, I have a 20# Lee Pro 4-20 220volt Pot. Saturday I cast up 1600 165grain 44's (coffee can full) with a Lee 6 cavity mold and never slowed down for the melt. I did slow down when I got a little tired. All told 3 hours casting from turning everything on to heat up until shut down and clean up.

[Bass Ackward]

Just wait until you put some of that on a patch and use it as bore prep in a clean tube. You ain't seen nothin yet.

[Buckshot]

Just wait until you put some of that on a patch and use it as bore prep in a clean tube. You ain't seen nothin yet.

..............So what happens? :-)

..............Buckshot

[Bass Ackward]

..............So what happens? :-)

..............Buckshot


I don't use LLA on bullet noses anymore. I don't have to start with a few squib shots to prep a clean bore. And that anoying first shot flier is minimized too if you don't over do it.

If you use it on a clean handgun, loads that lead, they still lead. But but it's a little less, doesn't build up as fast, and it pushes out with a tight patch. Just like lead won't stick to the hot plate, rapid fire isn't a face torker anymore when you look in the muzzle.

Other than that, not a darn thing.

[felix]

The first time I came across this problem (for real) was when Corky was shooting my bench gun on his official range. The gun was clean and cold, and was stroked several hours earlier before I left my house. Corky shot the gun giving all 5 rounds touching after a sighter or two. Then we shot some flinters, taking about a half hour or so. The next group Corky shot the group was opened somewhat, where all 5 rounds were not touching. Yes, the ambient changed a little, but not enough that I could tell. That situation bothered me to no end, and Corky too. We shot flinters for the rest of the day, and paid no further attention to the circumstance. About 6 months later, Merrill Martin talked about his BR 22LR gun, about how hard the lube got within 20 minutes. Taking that burnt-on lube ring out of the throat made the gun go back to normal. So, I started shooting the BR gun with the longest dead time being 10 minutes or less between "groups", actually sorties at the river/junkyard. The accuracy typically maintained itself until the ammo was completely gone, and sometimes for 80 rounds, depending on my mood and availability of targets. The rule, therefore, is to make sure the lube ring, if any, is not hard enough to cause problems, and the bore is conditioned before the very first shot. In some guns, you can go for a year off and on, and that would depend on the accuracy required for the sport on hand. ... felix

[Ricochet]

I've found with various wax-based lubes that grouping changes a lot with barrel temperature, often better when the barrel's rather warm.

[felix]

Shows the viscosity of the lube is too high, assuming everything else is correct. ... felix

[mastercast.com]

BULLPLATE LUBE?

GREAT STUFF! KUDOS TO THE BULLSHOP!

There are God only knows how many sprue plate lubes out there...I think I have used most, if not all of them at one time or another, and BULLPLATE is the best...period..end of discussion in my opinion... based on my experience using it and all the others I have tried in the casting of MANY millions of cast bullets.

[Lloyd Smale]

Ive been procrastinating on the stuff for about a year and finally ordered a couple bottles yesterday. I dont believe in miricle cures but theres just to many people bragging on this stuff for it not to have at least some substance.

[Calamity Jake]

Ive been procrastinating on the stuff for about a year and finally ordered a couple bottles yesterday. I dont believe in miricle cures but theres just to many people bragging on this stuff for it not to have at least some substance.



You won't be sorry!!!!!!!!!! VVVEEEEEERRRRRYYYYY good stuff.

[Bullshop]

Not wanting to toot my own horn but thought I would mention a plesent experiance yesterday. I had gotten a few use molds recently that I was trying for the first time. A couple of them had some lead smears on the plate and blocks along with some gouged on the blocks from the previous owner not using lube and galling the surfaces.
I just heated the molds and went to casting but applied bull plate at the start. For about a one hour session for each mold and applying bull plate three to foure times through the session the molds seemed to season and there was not more trouble with lead smears. In fact each time I reapplied bull plate some of the old smeared lead was removed. By the time I was done the smears were gone. Now the plate and block tops have that transparent glassy look they take on when they become seasoned from using bull plate. Thats about as easy as it can get to clean up a mold. Just use it to make lots of boolits and it comes out clean.
BIC/BS

[Lloyd Smale]

I sure hope it works for me. Im hard on molds and can tear a lee up in no time. I guess the main reason i want to try it is group buy molds. If a guy buys one and its a great bullet and you screw up your mold your out of luck as it cant be replaced. I try to buy two of the ones i really think will be good but the bank account doesnt allways allow it. If it will save one of those molds enough to get another 1000 bullets out of it its worth the 4 dollar price. As a matter of fact theres a couple of those molds that if it would keep them perculating it would be worth 50 bucks!!
Not wanting to toot my own horn but thought I would mention a plesent experiance yesterday. I had gotten a few use molds recently that I was trying for the first time. A couple of them had some lead smears on the plate and blocks along with some gouged on the blocks from the previous owner not using lube and galling the surfaces.
I just heated the molds and went to casting but applied bull plate at the start. For about a one hour session for each mold and applying bull plate three to foure times through the session the molds seemed to season and there was not more trouble with lead smears. In fact each time I reapplied bull plate some of the old smeared lead was removed. By the time I was done the smears were gone. Now the plate and block tops have that transparent glassy look they take on when they become seasoned from using bull plate. Thats about as easy as it can get to clean up a mold. Just use it to make lots of boolits and it comes out clean.
BIC/BS

[Limey]

Dear Bullshop,

I have tried twice now to contact you via your e-mail contact link on your website to order a bottle of your sprue plate lube but sadly, with no success.

I would like a bottle of your miracle juice but it will mean sending a bottle to me over here in France......is that possible or practicle for you?

I know it's 2.50 US a bottle, what about postage?

Sadly I see you do not accept Pay Pal anymore which is a real shame as it would be so convenient.... (for me at least!).....so what would be best way for you for me to get funds over to you?

.....here's hoping we can work something out.

Safe shooting,

Limey

[square butte]

Hello BullShop, Have had the same experience with tring to contact you via email in the last two days. Also want to buy some bullplte lube and perhaps some cast. What's the best way to purchase and make payment. You could PM me . Thanks

[unique]

I am curious how the bullplate speeds up casting or improves the quality?

[Bullshop]

It allows you to cut the sprue much sooner without smearing lead. This increases the casting rate which holds a higher and more consistant mold temp. The higher mold temp allows a better fill with cheaper alloy. By cheaper alloy I mean less tin and or antimony. This method allows casting straight WW without adding tin and even pure lead without tin and casting perfectly filled out boolits if the mold is properly vented.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[Bullshop]

Limey and square butte
Just PM me your wants and I will have BS Mom get a bill to you.
Limey we do reserve the use of paypal for situations like this. We can not use it for boolits but can for lube. I do have to correct you on the price though its $4.00 per 2 oz bottle. We have I believe shipped to France and other euro countries via the international flat rate systam and it is very reasonable.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[Buckshot]

[QUOTE=Lloyd Smale;266762]I sure hope it works for me. Im hard on molds and can tear a lee up in no time. I guess the main reason i want to try it is group buy molds. If a guy buys one and its a great bullet and you screw up your mold your out of luck as it cant be replaced.[QUOTE]

..............Lloyd, that's where I noticed the difference ................... on a Lee mould. I've heeded Richard Lee's advice on lubing, and as much of a PITA as it was before, I did it and like you espeically to keep a GB mould perking as long as possible.

When I got my first sample of Bullshop's Bullplate lube I was in the process of beginning a Minie' Boolit casting marathon (which I reported on here). If you're not familiar with them, they're a single cavity. They have the same large large male and female 'V's for horizontal alignment but the base pin to form the hollow base performs the duty of vertical alignment.

The basepin has an extended ring around it, which mates with an annular groove in the blocks. You can imagine that clapping the blocks closed on it repeatedly (regardless how carefully) and both WILL eventually wear. And they're a real pill to try and lube as it can migrate up and foul the part that forms the hollow base.

Well lemme tell ya, the Bullplate lube made a WORLD of difference! Pretty much unbelieveable in my own mind. If the stuff was $10 for that 2 oz bottle I'd pay it. Casting Minie's you are using pure lead and I have the pot going at warp factor 8. This is a bit up over 900*. Since the blocks are small and the boolit you're casting is large in relation ie: 58 cal and over 500 grs, the blocks get, and stay hot.

I used 2 moulds filling one and setting it down to fill the 2nd. Dump and refill the 1st and then dump and refill the 2nd, and going as fast as I could. In the couple hours spent with each pair of moulds over the course of the entire day the moulds performed like I'd never seen before, AMEN! One of these moulds was new, never used. When I got done they both looked as good as when I started. In fact the used one was BETTER then when I'd started.

You know how a Lee sprueplate can tend to gall? Didn't happen. Both the underside of the SP and the tops of theb locks were slick, clean and free of any scratches or lead smears. About once an hour or so I'd use the same swab I'd dipped in the stuff at the beginning to just wipe over the SP and block mating surfaces and that was enough. That 2 oz bottle will last a LONG time!

.................Buckshot

[dromia]

Ditto all Buckshot has said regarding Lee moulds and especially the Minnies.

I've nothing other to add other than Barry Darr recommends, and supplies a sample of Bull Plate lube with his moulds, they are some of the sweetest working moulds, from the first cast, I've ever used.

Mr Darr knows and makes quality his recommendation is a high one.

[hunter64]

I tried the Bullshop stuff and I must have used to much as it migrated into the cavities and then I had to stop production to clean them out. I tried it a second time and same result. So with a qtip you just lightly touch the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the block? Do you let it sit or keep casting? When I did this it just went into the cavities. I finally gave up and I use it as a bullet lube but I would like to give it another shot to see if I can get it to work.

[waksupi]

I tried the Bullshop stuff and I must have used to much as it migrated into the cavities and then I had to stop production to clean them out. I tried it a second time and same result. So with a qtip you just lightly touch the bottom of the sprue plate and the top of the block? Do you let it sit or keep casting? When I did this it just went into the cavities. I finally gave up and I use it as a bullet lube but I would like to give it another shot to see if I can get it to work.


If you read the instructions, you will see you are supposed to have bullets in the mold, to prevent lubing the cavities.

[Char-Gar]

Hunter... The stuff is really as good as others say. As you have noticed it is quite thin and runs very easy. That is why you don't get the Q-Tip sopping wet and have bullets in the cavities when you use it. Yep, as Waksupi said...it is all in the instructions.

[hunter64]

Well that makes sense, I didnt get instructions with my order and I just read on the site how to use it but I must have missed the leave the bullets in the cavities bit.

[Bullshop]

A helpful hint, if you get the aplicator (q-tip) too wet with bull plate just dip it in the melt for a second or two. The excess will spread over the melt and the adjusted amount in the aplicator will be better adjusted to the needed ammount. If you have the type with plastic shaft beware they will mely if submerged too long. The paper type are best for this. Most of you have likely noticed that the old well used q-tip with just a hint of blue works about perfectly and does not need redipping for the life of the q-tip. Thats kinda what your doing when you dip it in the melt, making a pre-used one of a new one.
Hunter so sorry about the no instruction thingy. I will blame it on Tina. It may help you to know that I will use it against her all day today.
Blessings
BIC/BS

[hunter64]

Bullshop: Don't do that buddy, the next thing that you screw up your great grandchildren will still be hearing about it. Women are funny that way, if they make a mistake then a mention of it is fine, twice you are pushing it. If men screw up it can and will be used against you for the duration of your life, probably be brought up again at the judgment day for all eternity.

Next time I am casting I will give it another go, it sure works great as bullet lube I can attest to that.

[Maven]

Dan, You may want to keep poet Ogden Nash's words in mind before you "blame" Tina:

To keep your marriage brimming, With love in the loving cup, Whenever you're wrong, admit it; Whenever you're right, shut up” (from "Advice to Husbands")

[Limey]

Hi to everybody at the Bull Shop,

Tina, I got your e-mail and with your carrage costs to me here in France....I have just this minute sent the correct amount for two bottles and postage as per your quote.

Please pack them well as they are going to have travel a long...(and I'm sure, bumpy road!)...to get here.

Maybe of interest to other casters.....currently I am using high melting point copper grease sold at auto shop as grease for use around disc brake locating pins and exhaust manifold nuts.....seems to work OK but you do need to re-lube fairly frequently during a session....

.....I use Lee alloy moulds as like a lot of you I'm sure, I am shooting on a tight budget and there is always too much month left at the end of the money!.....I am hoping that the Bull Shop wonder juice will omprove my casting quality/rate/fun and extend the working life of my moulds by preventing any spue plate galling on top of the moulds.

Safe shooting

Limey

Limey

[MT Gianni]

Maybe of interest to other casters.....currently I am using high melting point copper grease sold at auto shop as grease for use around disc brake locating pins and exhaust manifold nuts.....seems to work OK but you do need to re-lube fairly frequently during a session
Limey

I previously used a similar substance, grey Anti-sieze, as a mold lube. You will like BullPlate better. Gianni

[mto7464]

I am a novice but I bought three bottles and gave two of them to friends. Then will using mine I spilled it all over the bench. I still have enough, after saving what I could, to last me a long while. It works as advertised and made me look like a pro, well how about AAA.

[Phil]

Hi Limey,

Rest assured there is no BS about Bullshop sprue plate lube, or making bullet lube with it. You absolutely must follow the directions on using it but it makes casting good bullets easy and eliminates sprue plate/mold block galling. Just great stuff. Bullet bases come out nice and square also. I just can't say enough good about it.

Cheers,

Phil

[calsite]

what is this stuff your talking about? Speed Green? I'm new to the bussiness and am always looking to better my stuff

[Phil]

Speed Green is a great bullet lube made with Bullshop Sprue Plate Lube and beeswax. Try it, you'll like it.

Cheers,

Phil

[Bullshop]

OH one more thing I wanted to mention in my last post but forgot again. For anybody doing any swaging bull plate is all we use for lube for all phases of swaging. For me it works better than the corbin swage lube. Its less tacky and does not dry to a gluey hard goop like the corbin stuff.
BIC/BS

[dromia]

Dan, have you got round to drinking the stuff yet.:-D

[Swamprat1052]

Dan, have you got round to drinking the stuff yet.:-D

I wondered when that was coming. lol.

Swamprat

[jonk]

It does eliminate lead smearing, results in a cleaner cut, and works well to make speed green lube, so in balance I'm a happy camper, but it doesn't do much to make operation of the sprue perceptably smoother on any of my molds. 9/10 stars.

[Bullshop]

dromia
Only in sampling while cooking up new batches, but never in excess to the point of drunkeness, promis.
BIC/BS

[Phil]

Try it on a tossed salad, you'll like it, a little bleu cheese, some of those little crackers, yum, yum.

(:>)

Cheers,

Phil

[hunter64]

Well I thought I would give Bull Plate another try now that I know how to use it and all I can say is holy cow it works good. On my 6 cavity lee I pre heated the mold as usual and cast about 5 times to get it up to the proper temp. Then with a q tip I lightly ran it on top of the mold in a line down the length about 1/2 way between the bullets and the edge of the mold, then flipped it over and put a little on the sprue plate cutter. I dropped the bullets out of the mold and refilled and when I cut the sprue this time I felt a slightly less amount of force needed to cut. As I continued to work it got easier and easier and after about 20 molds full I re-applied some more and continued to cast. I must say I have never had bullets look this good, nice even cut on the sprue and the speed I could attain must be part of the temp of the mold so high. I didn't have any frosted bullets which is a norm for me which is also a nice bonus. There is one major problem now that I have to deal with and that is I only have a 10 pound pot and I had that sucker drained just as I was really getting into it.lol

So how often do you keep re-applying the bull plate lube on the mold. I did it about every 15-20 fills, is that about right or do I need to adjust the frequency?

[Buckshot]

So how often do you keep re-applying the bull plate lube on the mold. I did it about every 15-20 fills, is that about right or do I need to adjust the frequency?

..............I do it when I feel the sprueplate drag a bit. Timewise it might be 30 - 45 minutes, something like that.

One think I found out and wanted to mention (I thought it was funny) is that in the course of casting with a Lee mould, the sprueplate got so easy to operate I thought the dad blamed pivit screw had worked loose. That would have been bad as they don't re-tighten well so that would have meant cooling the mould then D&T for a replacement screw and also a keeper screw.

Anyway, I got a screwdriver and the screw was tight. It was hell as I couldn't keep from just KNOWING that the screw was loose. Really bothered me but everytime I checked it it was tight :-). I finally got used to the idea.

..................Buckshot