Halp! Lol newbie trying to make boolits.

[Docjames]

I have a Lee bottom pour and a decent alloy of wheel weights and lead it's light colored and pretty hard compared to the dark, soft lead I have that's pretty pure AFAIK. Can someone call me. I am still having fill out issues and leading really bad. I can't seem to describe this issue to a buddy through emails and think if I can talk I would be able to figure out what to call it lol. Thanks guys. I will send a quart zip lock bag of 38 special brass to the hero that can help me.

[runfiverun]

the fill out could be a couple of things.
heat in the mold or alloy [mold most likely culprit]
or your alloy could use 1-2% tin to help.
the other thing that kills fill-out is venting in the mold itself.

the leading is another issue, it is mostly caused by mechanical fit to the gun.
either from sizing in the loading process, or from an undersized mold to gun fit.
quite often antimonial wash is mistaken for leading too.

[bangerjim]

Agree ^^^^^^^^^^^!

Pre-heat your molds on a hotplate! Saves time and headaches.

Tin will probably solve your problems. WW's do not have enough by themselves.

Also try pressure casting to get good fill-out. I use it all the time to solve any fill problems I cannot solve in other ways. A very simple solution with your Lee pot!

Have you slugged your barrel to get the REAL size of boolit you need to be making? "FIT IS KING" not hardness.

Good luck! Let us know what you eventually find out.

bangerjim

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have a Lee bottom pour and a decent alloy of wheel weights and lead it's light colored and pretty hard compared to the dark, soft lead I have that's pretty pure AFAIK. Can someone call me. I am still having fill out issues and leading really bad. I can't seem to describe this issue to a buddy through emails and think if I can talk I would be able to figure out what to call it lol. Thanks guys. I will send a quart zip lock bag of 38 special brass to the hero that can help me.

Have you got a good cast boolit manual ?
like the Lyman cast bullet handbook 4th Ed.
http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LY9817004

It's only $19.99 and FREE SHIPPING if you order it before midnight tonight and plug in the free shipping coupon code in the link below.

http://www.natchezss.com/images/bannerAds/040714_Free_Shipping.html?trk_msg=RP9BLP88FCJ4FD2A 7BVCKF09J4&trk_contact=PUPVS9946UG3LGR89R8JC5PDNO&utm_source=Listrak&utm_medium=Email&utm_term=http%3a%2f%2fwww.natchezss.com%2fimages%2 fbannerAds%2f040714_Free_Shipping.html&utm_campaign=Apr_14_2014_Varmint&utm_content=Apr_14_2014_Varmint

OK, with that out of the way, reading the first half of the manual will give you the basic working knowledge to solve some of your problems....BUT more importantly, it gives you a base knowledge to ask the right questions to get the best answers to solve you problems.
Good Luck.

[Docjames]

I haven't added any tin ever. Maybe that's why I throw out so many boolits. I am also going to try not sizing the boolits.

[bangerjim]

I haven't added any tin ever. Maybe that's why I throw out so many boolits. I am also going to try not sizing the boolits.

"not sizing your boolits" is akin to wishful thinking. Hoping they will be of the proper size and fit is not the correct approach. Slug the barrel of the gun you are having troubles with and then decide on to size or not to size. A little info goes a long way. Sizing goes a long way in fixing any over-size or roundness problems that can creep in. I size TWICE.....once after cast and again after powder coating.

Also pretty much everybody adds tin to WW's at sometime or other. There is less than 0.5% in there and much of it could have been oxidized away during the smelting (overtemp & not enough fluxing) process. Get some solder or tin and add a bit......it only takes 1-2% by weight to do the job.

banger

[kweidner]

send me a pm with your number. I got you.

[Moonie]

Tin isn't required, I don't add any to my WW metal and get good boolits. I would think someone on here lives in your area and could give a helping hand. I know I am happy to help anyone in my area.

[abqcaster]

the fill out could be a couple of things.
heat in the mold or alloy [mold most likely culprit]
or your alloy could use 1-2% tin to help.
the other thing that kills fill-out is venting in the mold itself.

the leading is another issue, it is mostly caused by mechanical fit to the gun.
either from sizing in the loading process, or from an undersized mold to gun fit.
quite often antimonial wash is mistaken for leading too.

Runfiverun, what is antimonial wash? I've never heard of that.. .

[bangerjim]

Runfiverun, what is antimonial wash? I've never heard of that.. .


Do a search................

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?218651-Anyone-have-pics-of-Antimony-wash

banger

[snuffy]

[QUOTE=Moonie;2737307]Tin isn't required, I don't add any to my WW metal and get good boolits. I would think someone on here lives in your area and could give a helping hand. I know I am happy to help anyone in my area.[QUOTE]

[QUOTE]I have a Lee bottom pour and a decent alloy of wheel weights and lead it's light colored and pretty hard compared to the dark, soft lead I have that's pretty pure AFAIK. [QUOTE]

moonie, he's mixing WW with pure lead. The WW alone maybe will have enough tin by themselves, but further diluting by mixing with pure lead will result in not nearly enough tin.

Docjaames, tin is available from rotometals, look at the top of the page on this forum to order some. Also, lead-free solder sold at the hardware store is usually 95% tin and 5% antimony. It's expensive, but you won't need much to see if that's your problem.

[abqcaster]

Do a search................

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?218651-Anyone-have-pics-of-Antimony-wash

banger

I did. Nothing came up. Thanks for the link!

[bangerjim]

I did. Nothing came up. Thanks for the link!

I hate to say it, but if you use the search engine on here, you may come up dry most of the time.

I found that link using an outside engine like most others do. The popular engines link directly back to here!

Good luck!!

banger

[Bloodman14]

PM sent.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Mostly I use the castboolits "advanced" search when I know the name of member that has started the thread I'm looking for...Or has at least posted in that thread.

When I am searching for a specific topic, like 9mm
I type the keywords into google, then type, "site:castboolits.gunloads.com"

[Docjames]

Ok, I am still stuck. I cleaned the barrel really well. Shot 5 lubed and unsized boolits and although a power factor more accurate they still lead the barrel. 102507

[Docjames]

That was after a good deal of cleaning. I will take another few shots and get a before.

[Docjames]

102509 this is after 4 rounds, Lubed around noon today. Not sized, they feed pretty well, and shoot fine but the barrel is nasty.

[runfiverun]

okay you got problems.
this might take a bit to track down, so we gotta start somewhere.

one. we got an unknown caliber and load.
two. we have an unknown alloy and boolit [and it's mechanical fit to the pistol]
three. we have unknown loading practices.

let's start with number one and three.

number three is gonna mean measuring things as you go along through your loading process.
how much you size the case, expand it, how and how much you crimp it, and if it [any of them] is changing the diameter of your boolit in the process.

and finally if you are using a lee t/l boolit in a 9mm you are gonna have all kinds of issues like this.
it was the number one thread starter for 2 years running.

[Docjames]

okay you got problems.
this might take a bit to track down, so we gotta start somewhere.

one. we got an unknown caliber and load.
two. we have an unknown alloy and boolit [and it's mechanical fit to the pistol]
three. we have unknown loading practices.

let's start with number one and three.

number three is gonna mean measuring things as you go along through your loading process.
how much you size the case, expand it, how and how much you crimp it, and if it [any of them] is changing the diameter of your boolit in the process.

and finally if you are using a lee t/l boolit in a 9mm you are gonna have all kinds of issues like this.
it was the number one thread starter for 2 years running.

I have a s&w40 and Hiskor700x. I am using cci primers if it matters. I have tried water dropped lead, ww, air-cooled everything. I can't figure out why my weapon hates cast boolits.
I do have a chronograph if I need it.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have a s&w40 and Hiskor700x. I am using cci primers if it matters. I have tried water dropped lead, ww, air-cooled everything. I can't figure out why my weapon hates cast boolits.
I do have a chronograph if I need it.
A typical problem is using the Lee FCD, which can swage the boolit smaller when it's squeezed through the carbide ring. A smaller boolit is likely to cause Lead fouling. Are you using the Lee FCD ?

[Docjames]

No, I do not use the Lee fcd, just the Hornady dies, and am seating to 1.1" per the Lyman manual. The mold I'm using is a Lyman 401638 and kinda used ww with a little tin solder. 28grams in 8 pounds of lead to be exact.

[AlaskanGuy]

Well, I am sure it must be a sizing issue.... Most leading problems that i have found are simply sizing.... I would guess and say that the boolit is just too small for your particular gun... Yes there are other reasons for leading, but 90% i would guess, are sizing issues....

Pm sent

[Docjames]

I tried slugging the barrel and an already sized solid lead boolits is almost impossible to jam through. I am going to try again.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Use soft Lead for a slug...NOT COWW.
be sure to oil the barrel to help it slide through.

Another issue, much like a Lee FCD, is if you are expanding the case enough. 40S&W cases are designed for higher pressures and have thicker walls, so if you don't expand them enough, the strength of the case can size your boolit down before the case will expand. The test is to Pull a boolit (with an inertia pulled) after it's be seated into the case...then measure the boolit.

[Docjames]

That's a good idea jonb. I hadn't thought about the case resizing it. I just got my first slug done and it's a mess. I think I'm actually too big.

[Docjames]

Ok. Barrel wasn't clean. Protip clean bore before slugging. I'm going to get it right today lol. Thanks to everyone. 102571

[Docjames]

That slug is. 4096

[62chevy]

That slug is. 4096

Then you need to size to at least .001 over or 0.4106 round that up to .411 and you should be good.

[Docjames]

My brain hurts.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

something is wrong...you must have measured that wrong, it can't be that much oversized.

[Docjames]

I know what's wrong. AlaskanGuy has helped me so much today. I didn't think about how previous leading would keep fouling the barrel. I got a Lyman micrometer and some sinkers, cleaned the barrel as best I could and then slugged it again. It was .399-.400 .401 allows me to roll the slug around. So I think I had a hot load, and maybe a off round bullet Idk. It all builds down to me not getting my barrel perfect.

[Docjames]

I have really been happy with today. My rounds are pretty spread out but I'm not sure I hit better with factory ammo at 15 meters. I have much less leading and after 45-60 rounds it looks better than it did before with my unsized boolits. I haven't tried to clean it yet but I bet it comes right out even. Thanks for all the help. If you responded to help let me know if you want a box of 38spc brass on me.