Newby wants a 6.5 mould.

[kawasakifreak77]

Once my Swede is together, I just might try casting some for it. For serious work I will rely on jwords, as they work splendidly. I would like a mid-weight (120ish grains) plain base mould. I've searched for quite some time to no avail.

Purpose will be a reduced load for small game & plinking under 100 meters.

Thanks for any help!

[Ajax]

" For serious work I will rely on jwords"

BWAHAHAHA. you might want to search around on here about some 6.5 serious work.

Andy

[StrawHat]

Once my Swede is together, I just might try casting some for it. For serious work I will rely on jwords, as they work splendidly. I would like a mid-weight (120ish grains) plain base mould. I've searched for quite some time to no avail.

Purpose will be a reduced load for small game & plinking under 100 meters.

Thanks for any help!

Just make sure you get all the copper out of the bore before you use boolits. Otherwise you will not know how good they really are shooting.

[kawasakifreak77]

" For serious work I will rely on jwords"

BWAHAHAHA. you might want to search around on here about some 6.5 serious work.

Andy

I have read on here, for nights on end.... & the pattern I notice is essentially summed up by frustration & poor results. Not every case, but more negative than positive. I know exactly what my Swede & I can do with proper jword loads. I've yet to see a documented case of a boolit coming remotely close to matching the velocity potential of the Swede.

For those of you who are kind enough not to mock a perfect stranger's oppinion, without any motive or background of their knowledge... I stumbled across the Lyman 266324. Looks like something that would be perfect but appears to be out of production.

Any suggestions of a similar mould?

Thank you for the tip StrawHat. She's got a new Shilen barrel on now & I expect the rifle to shoot superbly with it.

[StrawHat]

If you ask for advice from a surgeon, he will probably recommend cutting. On a cast bullet site, most every one of us feels the lead boolit is superior to the jacketed type.

Personally, I haven't shot a jacketed bullet in decades.

As for a "perfect stranger", on this site you are family whether you like it or not. Besides, no one is perfect!

[curator]

With the help of Veral Smith of LBT, I found true happiness and learned to love my Swedes. Using a throat slug I provided, he made a .267/140 2-cavity mould that cast nearly perfect boolits that fit my two favorite shooting Swedes. I cast them from COWW +2% tin and water drop quench for a BHN of about 22. I also lube them with LBT's "blue" lube and following Buchshot's advise from some years back, load them in neck-sized Lapua brass over 35 grains of ultra-slow WC860. While I have not found the magic formula for velocities over 2000 fps, I am perfectly happy with reliable 1.0-1.5 MOA accuracy out to 300 yards. Previously I had purchased the Lyman #266324 and the Loverin style #266469, neither of which shot very accurately past 50 yards. Comparing measurements, I can see why as both of these "off-the-shelf" moulds are undersize for the military 6.5X55 Swedish Mauser throats and bore sizes.

[kawasakifreak77]

If you ask for advice from a surgeon, he will probably recommend cutting. On a cast bullet site, most every one of us feels the lead boolit is superior to the jacketed type.

Personally, I haven't shot a jacketed bullet in decades.

As for a "perfect stranger", on this site you are family whether you like it or not. Besides, no one is perfect!

I see your point, for the most part StrawHat. For most shooting I feel that yes, boolits will fill ours needs splendidly. Or to put it another way... My '07 ZX10R sport bike is an absolute ball on twisty back roads, however would get blown away by my 20hp XL350 racebike on the flat track even though it puts down 8x the power. Proper tools for the job. ;)

I'm only trying to differentiate how I'm planning to use this boolit, as the more information you more experienced casters have for my goal, the better you can help me.

curator: do you still have that 266324?

[grouch]

Depending on your bore size of course, I'd look at Cast Bullet Engineering's 265132 Loverin type tapered bullet. It's gas check, but they will cut it in plain base for no extra charge. Wish I had known that sooner, my last purchase from them was a double cavity with 1 cavity plain based, no extra charge. You might want to check that this hasn't changed since CBE changed hands.
My gas check mold in my Mod. 96 Swede shoots 1 1/4 or so (sometimes 'way better) for 5 shots at 100yds with 23 gr H414, ww +2%tin, air cooled. Granted, no velocity match for jacketed loads, but not giving up much(if anything) for accuracy.
Grouch

[Larry Gibson]

If you have that 266324 it should fit your needs very well. I suggest casting them of a fairly soft alloy (COWWs + 2% tin and mix 50/50 with lead is a good one) and shoot them AC'd and "as cast". Lube them with LLA and simply follow lee's directions. Use some well fire formed dedicated cases (I use formed cases from '06 milsurp) and drill the flash holes out with a #30 - #28 drill. With a Lee Collet FL sizer you can NS the necks to just give .002 - .003 neck tension. A Lyman standard .26 M die to flare the case mouth or if the neck tension isn't over .002 the Lee die also works. I use standard LR primers of any make.

Load over Bullseye with no wad or filler. Start at 3 gr and work up to 6 gr in .3 gr increments. Excellent accuracy will be found, probably around 1050 fps.

Larry Gibson

[kawasakifreak77]

Thanks Larry!

[Ajax]

That wasn't meant to be a jab at you kawasakifreak77. It is due to the old arguments with joe about the 6.5. Here is a link to a great wealth of knowledge pay particular attention on page 13 where 45 2.1 lays out some great knowledge. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?70923-Milk-Jug-300-Yard-6-5-Swede

Andy